« AnteriorContinuar »
LA BELLE ASSEMBLÉE.
For FEBRUARY, 1807.
EXPLANATION OF THE PRINTS OF FASHION,
No. 1-A NEW SPENSER WALKING DRESS. Incognita hat of French grey, or pigeon's wing, formed of sarsnet, velvet, or the Georgiana cloth. Tassels and trimming of chenille, velvet, or Trafalgar, contrasted agreeably to the taste of the wearer. A Tuscan spenser, the same colour, formed with a round lappel, continued from the back, and round the bosom on one side, with a full flowing robin on the other; descending a hitle below the knee, and terminated with a rich tassel. A chemisette, with high standing collar, fastened with a brooch at the throat, the whole trimined to correspond with the hat. The hair in loose curls; gold hoop earrings; York tan gloves; and shoes the colour of the spenser. The hat, as worn by Miss Duncan, is of pink sarsnet, trimmed with black; but the colour is necesstrily changed by those fair fashionables who have selected it for a walking dresss, to shades of less conspicuous attraction, amidst which the most esteemed are those mentioned in the above description.
spangles, and devices in transparencies. French kid gloves.
No. 3.-MADAME CATALANI.
A long flowing reste and drapery of crimson velvet, lined with white sarsnet, and richly ornamented with a Turkish border, in gold; the drapery drawn through a cestus, formed of gold and sapphire, and terminated with a large gold tassel; confined in front of the right shoulder with a brooch to correspond, from whence flows another point of the vest, finished with a similar A double tunique, or under dress, of French net, with loose long sleeves, and round bosom, cut low, spotted, and most splendidly embroidered in gold at the bottom. White satin petticoat embroidered to correspond. A Grecian diadem, of gold, and brilliants. A square Brussels veil of the most transparent texture, lightly embroidered in gold, fixed at the back of the diadem, and flowing negligently over the left Hair close cropt behind, falling in irregular corkscrew ringlets in front and on the sides. The
No. 2.-FULL DRESS.
A Roxborough jacket of soft white satin, flow-necklace, one row of fine brilliants, set transpaing open in front, and down each side the figure, rent, and fastened in the centre with a long in regular pointed drapery. A plain full sleeve, square brooch of sapphire and gold; earrings to and short jacket flaps; black and gold Turkish rib-correspond. White satin shoes, trimmed, and
band down the back; trimming and tassels of gold.embroidered at the toes, in gold.
A round train dress of the finest India muslin over a sattin petticoat, embroidered round the bottom, in a light pattern of gold. The hair twisted in a fanciful form, and short corkscrew curls flowing at the temples, and in various directions from the crown of the head; a tiara of fine pearl blended with the hair, and placed rather towards the left side. One row of fine pearls forms the necklace, which is fastened in front with a diamond brooch. An armlet of hair, in the new patent plait, with a row of the finest pearl on each side; bracelets to correspond. Earrings of pearl, with a diamond in the centre. White satin shoes, with gold trimming. Fan of Italian grape, with gold
No. 4.-PARISIAN WALKING DRESS.
A fine milled kerseymere Opera coat, of a silver grey; wrapt plain round the figure in front, and buttoned down the left side; square lappels, and rolled collar, of black velvet; deep cape à la pelcrine; belt buttoned in front; double, erect, Vandyke frill, plaited à la Queen Elizabeth. Hunting bonnet similar with the coat, bound with black velvet, bows and ends in front trimmed to correspond. Hair in confined curis ; amber earrings Ridicule of crimson velvet, with goldcoloured silk fringe and tassels. Crimson velvet shoes.
OBSERVATIONS ON THE FASHIONS
IN the period of one short month, it would scarcely be supposed that any material change can have taken place in the general costume; yet such is the changeful natur: of the ever varying Goddess, that independent of Birth-d sy decoration, we are enabled to offer to our fair correspondents the subsequent remarks.
and small Tekeli cap to correspond, have each
Velvet bonnets of silver-grey, have been the distinguishing ornaments of many modern belles. The Russian helmet, or bonnet of sarsnet, or velvet, trimmed with skin, and entirely concealing one side of the face, is a new and very tasteful article; and the pointed turban is of the same novel standard.
The African robe, of grey velvet, trimmed with silver, in Vandykes, is a most elegant habiliment with this most attractive robe is worn a tiara of silver fro t-work, finished at the edge with Trafalgar trimming in silver. The apron dress, is also very clegant; it is formed of silver, or gold crape, and worn over a satin round-dress. Short frocks are seen on very young women, richly embroidered, or trimmed with lace at the bottom. Gold and silver net is worn as a drapery over white satin dresses; and the hair is confined with the same. It is impossible to conceive a costume which exhibits at once more richness and elegance.
The Spanish vest of satin, or velvet, like that given in our Mourning Dress of last Month, is inuch esteemed by our females of rank and fashion. It is usually worn with a petticoat of silver, gold, or embroidered muslin. Round dresses of clear muslin over white satin, trimmed round the bottom, bosom, and sleeves with a satin ribband, laid flat, representing the leopards skin, has a truly grand effect. With this dress is commonly worn a tiara of similar skin, frosted, or thickly scattered with small gold spots. Brown muslin robes, with silver or gold stars, and diamonds to correspond. Shawl dresses trimmed with Vandyke thread-lace. The Spanish spenser, of velvet, flowing in pointed drapery from the waist, trimmed with narrow gold or silver Trafoigar, ||
The long sleeve, is very generally introduced in evening dress, but is ever composed of the clearest materials. Sometimes of lace, patent, or spider-net, an t embroidered book muslin.
Several females of taste and fashion have reintroduced the curled crop; but the general mode of wearing the hair is in loose curls in front, divided so as to discover the forehead; some form the hind tresses in several small braids, and then twist them in the form of a cable, and bring them round the temple, confining them on the right side, in a knot, with an ornamental comb; others form it in one large braid, and curl the
The fawn-colour, so universally exhibited in mantles, bonnets, and pelises, is now too common to be chosen by our first order of females; and the dove-brown, or shaded morone velvet, trimmed with swansdown, Indian mole, or grey squirrel very happily supplies its place. They are chiefly formed in large Opera coats, or Car-ends, which is male to flow in irregular ringlets on the opposite side. The most distinguishing ornaments for the head are, diadems and tiaras of silver, gold, fur, or bugles. The shawl veil ù la Parisian, is also adopted within this last fortnight, forming at once the head-dress and drapery. The passion flower, of diamonds, pearls, or foil, is a most chaste and elegant ornament.
dinal cloaks with long sleeves, and a deep coachman's cape. When composed of sarsnet, the
back and collar are made to sit close to the form; and the robins to flow loose from the shoulders; which are invariably trimmed with
The Madona front is entirely exploded amidst females of taste and fashion, they are now only worn by the obscure individual. We observe that the bosom of dresses are cut much lower of late, and worn with a square tucker of lace or embroidery; the back and shoulders are as much The short sleeve varies little exposed as ever. from our last; the twisted, or rucked sleeve, is also much admired for its simplicity.
Morning dresses are universally composed of cambric, or jaconot muslin, and are either made high towards the throat, with Vandyke frills of lace, or embroidered muslin, or cut low with a frock back and Flemish front; a border of needlework at the feet, and shirt to correspond. The full plaited, or surplice sleeve, is a new and distinguishing appendage to the morning costume. The veil, or cloister cap, the flurry mob, and the cap à la rustique, as given in our last, very inconsistently forms a part of this habiliment. The cable necklace of pearl, or beads, the cable chain of gold, with bracelets to correspond, is con-idered as a fashionable and chaste ornament. We must contradict the assertion of a cotemporary writer, who tells us, "that the earring is exploded;" on the contrary, no person can or does appear in full dress without that ornament; and though not insisted on, in the morning costume, is generally seen on the female of a correct taste, in the form of an octagon, or huge ring, variously decorated. The standard for gloves, and shoes remain as given in our last, except that the tues are more round than ever, and white jean are more generally worn than kid, but satin in full dress are scen without an exception.
PRINCESS AUGUSTA-Brown velvet petticoat, beautifully embroidered with silver; a large drapery on the right side, with a most brilliant border, with damask and other roses intermixed; a small drapery on the left side, tied up with a very rich bouquet, and bordered with Idalian chains; train of brown and silver tissue. The whole had a very fine effect.
PRINCESS ELIZABETH.-A magnificent dress of green velvet, superbly embroidered with gold; the right side of the dress composed of a large marking drapery, elegantly striped with gold spangles, and finished at bottom with a massy border of a Mosaic pattern, intermixed with pine leaves, richly embroidered in dead and bright gold foil, bullion, &c. the contour of which was strikingly elegant; smaller draperies in shellwork, with rich borders, completed this superior dress, which was particularly remarked for taste and effect; the whole finished with a massy border at the bottom, of fail and bullion, and looped up with superb cord and tassels. Her Royal Highness wore a robe of green and gold velvet tissue, sleeves ornamented with tiaras of gold and green, and trimmed with point lace and gold fringe.
PRINCESS SOPHIA -A puce velvet petticoat, embroidered round the bottom with twist and spangles, over which a magnificent drapery superbly embroidered with festoons of variegated geranium leaves of gold embossed work; under the leaves was suspended an extraordinary rich drapery, with point, terminating in rich gold tassels; the robe was puce and gold velvet. The
head-dress, as usual, to correspond. The whole' dress was uncommonly elegant
PRINCESS MARY.-The same as her Royal Highness Princess Elizabeth, in scarlet and gold.
PRINCESS AMELIA -An elegant fawn-coloured dress, with silver tassels. Head-dress a very fine penache of nine feathers.
DUCHESS OF YORK.-Her Royal Highness's dress was universally admired; it consisted of a white crape petticoat, the ground richly embroidered with gold spangles, in shell patterns,
bordered with wreaths of oak and acorns elegantly worked, in gold intermixed with blue velvet; the drapery showered with gold spangles, beautifully interspersed with bunches of acorns, a border of oak to correspond, the pocket holes tastefully ornamented with rich gold cord and tassels; train of blue velvet, trimmed with gold fringe, with a profusion of diamonds on the body, sleeves, and girdle-Head-dress, penache of seven ostrich feathers, with a beautiful heron in the middle bandeau; necklace and ear-rings of diamonds; a very elegant pair of white silk shoes, richly spangled all over with gold, and ornamented with gold; the style of this dress was entirely new, and displayed great taste.
PRINCESS SOPHIA OF GLOUCESTER.-A purple velvet dress, with an elegant drapery embroidered with silver, and trimmed to correspond. The whole formed that elegant appearance by which her Royal Highness is always distinguished.
PRINCESS CASTELCICALA-An elegant dress of white crape, with draperies of patent net, ornamented with white satin, and festoons of white beads, and finished with handsome bead tassels. Robe purple velvet, trimmed with point lace and beads.
Marchioness of LANSDOWNE.-A splendid dress of white crape and satin, richly embroidered in shells of silver and white velvet; the draperies looped up with chains of Maltee silver, and fastened with arrows. Body and train of steel-coloured velvet, embroidered with silver in shells, all of which had a beautiful effect. Headdress, feathers and diamonds.
Countess of DERBY.-A white crape dress, superbly embroidered in rich stripes of spangles, with a magnificent Grecian border; the whole of the draperies trimmed with a beautiful ring chain, looped with bullion, and tied up with very large gold tassels and cord; the draperies formed of spangled crape, and uncommonly large gold zephyr; train of purple velvet, trimmed with a ring chain to correspond with the petticoat. Her Ladyship wore a profusion of diamonds and feathers.
Countess of MANSFIELD-Petticoat of fawncoloured satin, covered with a crape one of the same colour, richly embroidered in the silver'
Countess TEMPLE.-Her Ladyship's dress was much admired for richness, elegance, and taste. She wore three yards of diamonds, valued at 90,000l. on her dress, besides those on her head and neck.
Lady GRENVILLE.-Head-dress, a large beattiful ostrich plumage, the feathers most tastefully arranged, with a bandeau of ruby velvet, surmounted with a very superb tiara of diamonds; the plumage encircled by a rich diamond chain, passing over the top of the tiara; under the tiara appeared the hair in ringlets before, and fixed behind by an elegant diamond comb: round the neck was a diamond necklace, with rows of pearls, and a diamond cross: body, ruby velvet, richly embroidered in silver; the sleeves and train of the same, pot embroidered, but trimmed with point lace; the petticoat, white satin, embroidered with large silver flowers, surmounted with three draperies; the first and third of ruby velvet, and the middle one of satin; all magnificently embroidered in silver, declining in a
Countess FITZWILLIAM.-A white crape petticoat, grounded entirely over in Mosaic pattern, richly embroidered in gold spangles; a double drapery, with a rich Grecian border, fastened with gold cord and tassels; pocket-circular direction, from the top of the petticoat holes superbly trimmed with gold; train of brown satin, trimmed round with gold fringe; body and sleeves ornamented with point lace and diamonds; head-dress, neck-lace, and earrings of diamonds.
Countess of POMFRET.-Dress of white crape, elegantly trimmed with draperies of the same, tastefully ornamented with white satin, and loops of beads, and terminated with handsome bead, cord, and tassels.-Robe of white satin, trimmed with lace and beads.
oriental style; broad border, embroidered in silver oak-leaves; draperies of fawn-coloured crape, with a rich Mosaic of brilliant stars; border of silver leaves, intermixed with silver leaves looped up with zephyr trimmings and rich border and tassels; train of fawn-coloured twist, with a rich border, the same as the petticoat.-Head-dress, diamonds and feathers.
Countess COOPER-Wore a petticoat of white satin, embroidered with silver drapery, in waves of silver spangles, with a fringe of Maltee silver ornaments. Body and train of blue velvet, emCoronet head-dress of broidered with silver. feathers and diamonds.
on the right, to the bottom of the petticoat on the left; each drapery having besides a large silver fringe. The tout ensemble was the most superb and tasteful we saw at Court, and could only be equalled by the graceful and elegant form of her Ladyship.
Countess BARRYMORE-White crape petticoat, elegantly embroidered with gold spangles, intermixed with satin, the pocket-holes ornamented with an entire new gold trimming, gold cord and tassels Train of gold velvet, trimmed with gold. Body and sleeves, ornamented with point lace; head-dress of feathers and diamonds.
Lady WILLIAM RUSSELL.-A very rich and elegant dress; white satin petticoat with broad silver tassel fringe round the bottom; white satin draperies very richly studded with demibeads of silver, bordered round with deep silver tassel fringe, supported and enriched with a curious snake rope and tassels of silver; train white satin, trimmed round with the same tasselfringe; body and sleeves richly embroidered in silver.
Countess of UXBRIDGE.-A beautiful white crape embroidered dress in drapery, with wreaths of green ivy leaves, and rich gold sprigs. The drapery edged with sable and point lace; the dress was most complete, and greatly admired: body and train of green satin to correspond.
Countess of CARDIGAN.-A most magnificent embroidered brown velvet petticoat, in draperies composed of beautiful shaded roses, with rich vandyke border; on the left side rich gold chains, cords and tassels; the sleeves, body, and train, were all correspondent. Her Ladyship's dress had an uncommon fine effect.
Lady ANNE CULLING SMITH.-Petticoat of French pink crape, embroidered in broad wreaths of tulips in French pearls; train of rich French pink satin, embroidered in pearls to correspond with the petticoat-Head-dress, bandeau of knotted pearl, high plume, pale pink feathers mounted in the military style. Her Ladyship wore a Queen Elizabeth's ruff in Brussels lace, which had quite a new effect.
Lady HAWKE.-A superb dress of violet velvet, embroidered with gold, looped up with ropes of gold beads, fastened with arrows; body and train richly embroidered to correspond.
Lady M.WALPOLE.-Petticoat of white crape, richly embroidered in silver, interlined with amber sarsnet and ornamented with American roses.. Train and body of rich white satin and point and silver, trimmed with swansdown. Head-dress, feathers and diamonds.
Lady CAROLINE WALDEGRAVE.-A rose-colour crape petticoat, with a beautiful black velvet applique drapery and borders tied up with silk cords and tassels,
LADY MAYORESS.-White crape petticoat, embroidered with gold, tied up in draperies, with rich cords and tassels; white satin body and train, with a border to correspond with the draperies. Her Ladyship's dress was neat and elegant in the