fied convent, crowned a hill on their right, a couple of miles from the river; the other lay up the right bank of the Ega to Estella, which was about four miles from us, and hidden by a turn of the river from our view. The ground near the river on the Carlist side was open meadows, and it sloped upwards, sprinkled with olivegroves and villages, to the Monte Jurra, which lifted its bare and craggy head to a great height, rising abruptly above Estella.

Our light infantry, pressing down the tangled bank, forthwith began a smart skirmish with the enemy, who replied as eagerly from their side. They were much exposed, being on more open and lower ground than our men, and we saw them drop pretty frequently. Leon now got his howitzers in a good position, and sent his shells crashing among the enemy's masses. A squadron that was coming down the road from Estella received one of these shells in the midst of them, which killed and wounded a great number, and the rest went about, and fairly galloped off to the shelter of an olive-grove, amidst shouts of laughter from our side.

The day was bright and clear, so that the smallest objects were distinguishable at a great distance, and the scene was lovely. The enemy's battalions and cavalry coming out of Dicastillo and Estella pressed down towards the bridge; the firing soon became pretty hot; the shrill sound of the bullets rung incessantly across the ravine; while the whistling and explosion of the shells, the shouts of the men, and the roar of cannon and musketry were re-echoed from the crags, the smoke curling in white wreaths into the cloudless sky. At length, Leon, having compelled the enemy to show his force, drew off. The Carlists, seeing us retiring, pressed forward, as if inclined to cross the river, and follow up the retreat; but two noble battalions turned, and pouring in a terrible volley, completely checked their advance. This affair must have cost the enemy a good many men; but they skirmished admirably, and their cool, steady aim, told also on our side.

We fell back to Larraga that night, the enemy's cavalry occupying Orteiza the moment we left it. On the 24th, at nine at night, general orders were sounded, they were for marching immediately. At ten we marched out, and passing by Mendigorria and Puente la Reyna, at sunrise on the 25th we reached the mountains above the village of Belascoain. Here we formed, and advanced upon the place in two columns, moving along parallel ridges. Suddenly the deep roar of a cannon broke the silence of the morning, and was followed by several more reports. This was the enemy's fort, which commanded the bridge, and opened upon the head of the column. Leon, after reconnoitring the ground, fell back to Puente and the neighbouring villages. At two in the afternoon my squadron got. into quarters, the horses having had neither food nor water for twenty hours.

On the 27th the squadron and a company of infantry marched. out, and formed on the side of a mountain commanding the road from Pamplona to Belascoain, in order to protect a party who were employed in making the road practicable for the battering-train. Here we remained all day, and the general passed by to the front. In the evening we followed, and found him in a village on the Arga, opposite a fort of the enemy. He had with him his escort, the British guns, and three or four battalions. The place had been com

pletely deserted by the inhabitants, who had carried with them their beds and effects, so that we were huddled together on the bare floors. Although the season was tolerably advanced the nights among these mountains were sharp, and the soldiers tore down the wood-work of the houses to make fires, our only means of light as well as

warmth.

On the 28th, at daybreak, the firing all along the outposts roused us. This day was employed in bringing up the battering-train from Pamplona, so we officers amused ourselves in reconnoitring the enemy's position. It occupied about five miles in length, from the town of Echaurri to Belascoain. The village of Belascoain is on the left, or our bank of the Arga, and it, as well as the bridge, was swept by the guns of a fort on the opposite bank. Halfway between this and Echaurri was a smaller fort, commanding a ford at that point. The banks all along that side of the river were lined with breastworks. A formidable bridge-head, and a large stone-house containing mineral baths, completed the defences opposite Belascoain. The mountains there, and at Echaurri, rose immediately from the water; but between those two points the river made a bend, leaving a level plain between it and the mountains, which was covered with corn-fields, and enlivened just where the ground swept upwards into grassy meadows by two small villages. On our side, also, were two or three villages besides Belascoain, from all of which the people had fled.

It will be seen that to destroy the bridge and forts of the enemy, which was the general's object, was no easy matter. The larger fort could not be easily battered from our side, while the four heavy guns with which it was armed swept all the approaches to the bridge. Again, to cross a deep and rapid river, where the fords were few and difficult, and everywhere commanded by strong works, was also an undertaking of some moment. However, Leon had the advantage of numbers. The bank, also, on our side at Belascoain rose abruptly above the river, and would enable our guns to sweep the enemy's works at that point. The mountains rose on either side of the river, covered with forests of dark ilex; and white villages and farm-houses were scattered along the valley, surrounded by gardens, orchards, and patches of corn-land, while the lower slopes of the hills were rough with vineyards. Through the midst the clear blue river wound, reflecting the oak, the birch, or the chestnut, with which its banks were fringed. The whole scene was one of exquisite beauty, clothed as it then was in the fresh garb of Spring.

During all the 28th the popping went on along the banks of the river, and I and two or three others suddenly found ourselves in the course of our rambles just opposite a picquet of the enemy. An officer who was near them called to us, and came down to the water's edge. He was a cavalry officer, very well dressed, and, moreover, a fine handsome young fellow. He wanted us to cross the water to him; but while we were talking to him three rascally infantry-men stole along the bank, and fired at us. How they missed us I do not know. We had just time to turn, and get up the bank, when they loaded and fired again, the bullets whistling over our heads. This gave us a dislike to hold any more conversations across the water. When we got back to the village, some of our comrades among the officers of the escort having found a table and some benches in the house where

they were, lent them to us, and so we passed this evening more comfortably than the last, and afterwards lay down in our cloaks upon the floor to sleep.

Before daylight on the 29th we were awoke by the bands of all the regiments playing the réveille. The troops were soon under arms, and spirits were served out to the men. We then moved towards the bridge, halting at a small village about half way. I entered the little church, which was fitting up to receive the wounded. Nothing could be greater than the contrast between the bustle and noise of the street outside and the perfect quiet within it. I sat down on a bench to enjoy the calm of the tranquil building, and to give liberty to the thoughts which the scene called forth. The light was subdued and mellowed by the painted windows as it fell upon the carved altarpiece and the silent statues of saints. How different was that scene when I visited it two days afterwards, when the walls rang with the dismal groans of wounded and dying wretches, whose mangled forms were strewed over the floor.

Leon having occupied this village, pushed on towards Belascoain. The skirmishing along the banks below us was now kept up briskly, and a good many wounded passed on their way to the rear. The enemy had a tolerable mass of horse and foot on the level ground near the two little villages; and, seeing our column filing along the face of the mountain towards the bridge, they shouted loudly, their bands at the same time striking up lively airs. As soon as we turned an angle of the mountain, which brought us within range of the fort, their guns opened upon us. Our squadron and the escort formed on the mountain behind the village, while the artillery and sappers with some battalions entered Belascoain, and immediately began to form a battery. The rest of the division occupied the heights and villages fronting the enemy's line and kept open the communication with Pamplona.

The battery went forward rapidly in spite of a galling fire of musketry from the bridge-head, bath-house, and parapets, and the shot and shells which came tumbling in from the fort. This was about ten in the morning; and by three o'clock we had mounted some heavy guns in the battery, and sent our twenty-four pound shot crashing through the roof and windows of the bath-house. The English guns, also, though much exposed, were admirably served, and swept the enemy's breastworks with a terrible precision. The firing, which waxed very hot as the day advanced, ended by the fall of night. We lay that night in the forest; and as day dawned on the 30th the fighting re-commenced. This day we had eight heavy guns in position. The enemy also got up three mortars on the hill in the rear of the bath-house, and shelled the great battery and the village with much effect. Much good practice was made on both sides, and one of the English guns shot away the flagstaff of the fort.

In the early part of the day, in spite of the crashing storm of iron which swept their lines in all directions, the enemy stuck manfully to their works, and crowded forward, shouting taunts and threats at the Christinos. Whenever a shot struck the great house a head would pop from a window, and a musket would be fired in derision. But it was soon evident that our heavy cannonade was telling. By sunset the bridge was knocked to pieces; the bridge-head and roof of the bath-house were completely riddled, and the English guns

sent such a tempest of shot and shells into the breast works, that the defenders were fain to leave them. Night again parted the combatants, and the watchfires of both armies glittered along the moun

tains.

The 1st of May dawned on the bloody banks of the Arga—a calm, grey, lovely morning. But long before the sun's rays had gilded the tops of the mountains, and before the mist was yet uplifted from the valley, the rattle of musketry resounded along the ravine, and a sparkling line of fire followed the windings of the river, marking in the early dawn the position of the contending parties. Soon afterwards the deep voice of a cannon woke the echoes of the mountains, -then another and another, till a ceaseless roar of artillery reverberated on all sides. A dark mass now gathering above a ford opposite to the bath-house, showed that the Christino general was about to attempt the passage of the river. Supported by the fire of nineteen pieces of artillery, a light company dashed across the ford, breasthigh in water, and carried the house in gallant style. The defenders were as numerous as the assailants; but, finding them forcing their way in at one side, they made off at the other. Many, however, were taken and killed. A lodgment being thus made, our troops rapidly crossed the river, Leon leading them on foot. The scene now became very grand. The great fort wrapped in fire and smoke, and the mortar-battery, plunged their bullets into the advancing column, while from our side nineteen pieces thundered in reply. Many thousand muskets also kept up a ceaseless roar, and, the valley being confined, the din was tremendous. The rushing sound of the cannon-shot, the whistling and explosion of shells, and the shriller whizz of the musket-balls, were heard all along the river, while the smoke hung like a thick canopy above. Meanwhile our troops, spreading right and left on crossing the river, and sheltered by a hollow road, maintained their ground, till, finding themselves strong enough, they at once assailed the steep and tangled hill where the mortar-battery stood, and stormed the bridge-head. At the same time our squadron dashed across a deep and difficult ford below the bridge, and a loud shout announced that the bridge-head was carried. The enemy, however, reinforced from his left, charged down the hill, and made some prisoners; but, being finally repulsed, he retired into the mountains, carrying off the mortars.

The garrison of the fort, seeing all around them in the hands of the enemy, and a strong column preparing to storm them, fled also, leaving four guns and a great quantity of ammunition in the hands of the victors. Elio, who commanded, retired by Echaurri on his left. The smaller fort, with all that it contained, was evacuated at our approach.

Having completed the destruction of the two forts, which were mined and blown into the air, our squadron re-crossed the river at night, bringing up the rear of the division, and annoyed by the enemy from the woods.

On the 2d Leon completed the destruction of the bridge, and the enemy, who attempted to interrupt the operations, were repulsed with much loss by the English guns.

On the 3d, we marched into Puente la Reyna, and got into comfortable quarters, which were the more agreeable to us after so much knocking about. For six days our daily food had been a little

rice, and a morsel of rancid pork, and for six nights we had not enjoyed the luxury of a bed, or taken off our clothes. Those only who have experienced it can appreciate the luxury of drawing off one's boots and spurs after wearing them a week without intermission.

Thus ended the battle of Belascoain, for which Leon was created Count, by the title of Conde de Belascoain. It seems to me that if he had pushed some of his numerous cavalry, with a battalion or two, across the river, and come in upon the enemy's left at the moment their right was so roughly assailed, he might have destroyed half their army. He would thus have dropped in upon Elio and the left of the Carlists; and the ground between the river and the mountains was very favourable for cavalry.

CHAPTER VI.

The Depôt.-A visit to head-quarters.-A surprise.-Sickness-Conclusion. IN the good city of Tafalla, about the centre of Navarre, were fixed the depôts of the various cavalry regiments which composed that arm of the division of General Leon. That of the gallant Reyna Ysabel Lancers, of the British Auxiliary Brigade, who have made so conspicuous a figure in the course of this narrative, was there amongst the rest. Tafalla therefore became a sort of rallying-point to us all. Our letters were all addressed to this place, as to one to which we were certain to come now and then in the course of our rambles. A subaltern officer took it in turn to command the depôt, being relieved at the end of a month, and it was a rest which every man was glad to get both for himself and his horses, although it was a situation of considerable trouble and responsibility.

On the 6th of May I received orders to take my turn of duty, and leaving the column at Larraga, I proceeded to Tafalla for that purpose. My charge consisted of about sixty men, dismounted by the casualties of the campaign, and some twenty invalid horses, and my duties and life were monotonous and uninteresting in the extreme. There was no society in the town, all the good families having left it during the war, as I have previously said. The neighbourhood of Tafalla, moreover, although very pretty, did not hold out great inducements to stir beyond the town; for the immediate vicinity was filled with the bodies of deceased horses, who, having died in the depôt, were cast forth into the fields, the lawful prey of wild dogs, vultures, crows, ravens, and magpies. So that if one strolled into an inviting vineyard, or sought the tempting shade of an olive grove, the senses were regaled with the not very pleasing sight and scent proceeding from the bodies of those noble animals who had probably met a premature end from their too severe exertions in behalf of her majesty Doña Ysabel Segunda. If, again, the soldier ventured beyond the precincts of this Père la Chaise' he ran the imminent risk of being made a corpse by some of that young lady's ill-wishers. In fact, when the column was not near, roving parties of Carlists came up to the very gates of Tafalla, and some of our thoughtless Englishmen fell victims to their fondness for long walks.

My existence, therefore, was principally confined to the particularly uninteresting bounds of Tafalla itself-a dirty, ruinous, desolatelooking place, in whose streets you meet nothing but a few invalid