In the distant settlements, where society is hardly organized, offences against it are sometimes punished in a summary manner by the regulators, or associations made for that purpose. †

As the character of Kentucky seems to be the pervading one of the West, it is describe its prominent points. It is a branch of that of Virginia, modified by a more adventurous, but secluded life. The Kentuckian is bold in his bearing, and lofty in his port; but

his dignity is dashed with humor and gayety. He has a degree of modest assurance, that belongs to men who are satisfied with their own qualifications. He deems himself equal to any man, and the abstract conception of superior, never occurred to him. He never mars his fortunes by an idle distrust of himself; he believes himself capable of accomplishing anything, and the belief renders him so. Hospitality and generosity, which are virtues in common men, are none in the Kentuckian; they are the effect of his impulses, a part of his instinct. He is not given to falsehood, for he is not accessible to fear. He is courteous with the civil, and with the ungentle he is also froward. He will fight for any cause or for no cause, but he will not commence the quarrel. His pride is a part of his life, and he defends it; his honor is the best of his possessions, and he suffers no encroachment. In one respect he is unfortunate; he has not enough to do; there are no Indians to be hunted, or forests to be cleared; the country is a garden, the proprietor rich, and his restless spirit is sometimes urged by ennui into the borders of dissipation.

17. Amusements. The rifle furnishes part of the amusements of the West. It is used universally, and with unerring skill. The smallest visible mark within its range is hit, and the comparative excellence of the piece is a frequent subject for wagers. To kill a squirrel with

and repassed me several times, and once pinched me on the side so violently, that the pain nearly brought forth an exclamation of anger. I looked at him. His eye met mine; but his look was so forbidding, that it struck a chill into the more nervous part of my system. He again seated himself, drew his butcher knife from its greasy scabbard, examined its edge, as I would that of a razor suspected dull, replaced it, and again taking his tomahawk from his back, filled the pipe of it with tobacco, and sent me expressive glances whenever our hostess chanced to have her back towards us. Never until this moment had my senses been awakened to the danger which I now suspected to be about me. I returned glance for glance to my companion, and rested well assured that, whatever enemies I might have, he was not of their number. I asked the woman for my watch, wound it up, and under pretence of wishing to see how the weather might probably be on the morrow, took up my gun, and walked out of the cabin. I slipped a ball into each barrel, scraped the edges of my flints, renewed the primings, and returning to the hut, gave a favorable account of my observations. I took a few bear skins, made a pallet of them, and calling my faithful dog to my side, lay down, with my gun close to my body, and in a few minutes was to all appearances fast asleep. A short time had elapsed, when some voices were heard, and from the corner of my eyes I saw two athletic youths making their entrance, bearing a dead stag on a pole. They disposed of their burden, and asking for whisky, helped themselves freely to it. Observing me and the wounded Indian, they asked who I was, and why the devil that rascal (meaning the Indian, who, they knew, understood not a word of English) was in the house. The mother, for so she proved to be, bade them speak less loudly, made mention of my watch, and took them to a corner, where a conversation took place, the purport of which required little shrewdness in me to guess. I tapped my dog gently, he moved his tail, and with indescribable pleasure I saw his fine eyes alternately fixed on me and raised towards the trio in the corner. I felt that he perceived danger in my situation. The Indian exchanged a last glance with me. The lads had eaten and drunk themselves into such condition, that I already looked upon them as hors du combat; and the frequent visits of the whisky bottle to the ugly mouth of their dam I hoped would soon reduce her to a like state. Judge of my astonishment, reader, when I saw this incarnate fiend take a large carving knife, and go to the grind-stone to whet its edge. I saw her pour the water on the turning machine, and watched her working every way with the dangerous instrument, until the sweat covered every part of my body, in despite of my determination to defend myself to the last. Her task finished, she walked to her reeling sons, and said, there, that 'll soon settle him! Boys, kill him, and then for the watch.' I turned, cocked my gun locks silently, touched my faithful companion, and lay ready to start up and shoot the first who might attempt my life. The moment was fast approach

*

ing, and that night might have been my last in this world, had not Providence made preparations for my rescue. All was ready. The infernal hag was advancing slowly, probably contemplating the best way of despatching me, whilst her sons should be engaged with the Indian. I was several times on the eve of rising and shooting her on the spot: but she was not to be punished thus. The door was suddenly opened, and there entered two stout travelers, each with a long rifle on his shoulder. I bounced up on my feet, and making them most heartily welcome, told them how well it was for me that they should arrive at that moment. The tale was told in a minute. The drunken sons were secured, and the woman, in spite of her defence and vociferations, shared the same fate. The Indian fairly danced with joy, and gave us to understand that, as he could not sleep for pain, he would watch over us. You may suppose we slept much less than we talked. The two strangers gave me an account of their once having been themselves in a somewhat similar situation. Day came, fair and rosy, and with it the punishment of our captives. They were now quite sobered. Their feet were unbound, but their arms were securely tied. We marched them into the woods off the road, and having used them as Regulators were wont to use such delinquents, we set fire to the cabin, gave all the skins and implements to the young Indian warrior, and proceeded, well pleased, towards the settle

ments.

"Having resided some years in Kentucky, and having more than once been witness of rifle sports, I will present you with the results of my observation, how far rifle shooting is understood in that State. Several individuals who conceive themselves expert in the management of a gun, are often seen to meet for the purpose of displaying their skill; and betting a trifling sum, put up a target, in the centre of which a common sized nail is hammered for about two thirds of its length. The marksmen make choice of what they consider a proper distance, which may be 40 paces. Each man cleans the interior of his tube, which is called wiping it, places a ball in the palm of his hand, pouring as much powder from his horn upon it as will cover it. This quantity is supposed to be sufficient for any distance within a hundred yards. A shot which comes very close to the nail is considered as that of an indifferent marksman; the bending of the nail is somewhat better, but nothing less than hitting it right on the head is satisfactory. One out of three shots generally hits the nail, and should the shooters amount to half a dozen, two nails are frequently needed before each can have a shot. Those who drive the nail have a further trial amongst themselves, and the two best shots out of these generally settle the affair, when all the sportsmen adjourn to some house, and spend an hour or two in friendly intercourse, appointing, before they part, a day for another trial. This is technically termed 'driving the nail.' Barking off squirrels is delightful sport, and in my opinion requires a greater degree of accuracy than any

shot, would subject a sportsman to derision. "Luck is like a shot-gun mighty uncertain," is a proverb in general circulation. Various kinds of hunting and athletic sports, form a part of the amusements; which are, however, substantially the same in all parts of the United States. 18. Education. All that is practicable is done for education in the Western States. The importance of the subject is properly estimated by every legislator, and the number of native inhabitants who cannot read or write, is not large. A common education is within the reach

19. Religion. In none of the Western States do the laws provide for the support of any form of worship. Religion receives little other aid from legislation, than the granting of incorporations; and by most of the constitutions clergymen are incapable of holding offices of honor or trust, in the gift of the people. There are, however, stationary clergymen in the towns, especially in Ohio, and there are so many missionaries and traveling preachers, that there is generally no want of religious instruction. The court-house is the general place of meeting, and there is no lack of the rude eloquence, that is most effectual among a new people. The principal sects are Methodists, Baptists, Presbyterians, and Catholics. In Arkansas, and in fact in some other Western States, billiards are played, and races performed, on Sunday, in the vicinity of the places of worship, and persons will sometimes step across from one to the other. This, however, is chiefly in districts where the population is thin. The camp meetings are numerously attended and impressive.*

20. Antiquities. There are many remains of remote antiquity, such as might have been raised by a rather numerous but rude people, who would carry to the work more labor than

art.

They consist in part of mounds, varying in height from 10 or 20 to 50 and even 70 feet, and commonly of a regular conical form, sometimes truncated and sometimes complete cones, sometimes solitary and sometimes clustered together in great numbers; and in part of spacious enclosures, oval, circular, square, or polygonal, often connected with each other by long parallel lines of embankments, and in some instances comprising an extent of from 20 to 30 acres. In general the walls of circumvallation are composed wholly of earth, but sometimes consist partly of stones loosely thrown together, and traces of bricks and cement are said, though perhaps without foundation, to have been met with in some places. The mounds appear to have been used as places of burial, even if they were not constructed for this purpose; the enclosures for purposes of defence. The question as to the origin, authors, and objects of these works, has, however, given rise to much speculation, and while some look upon them as proofs of the former existence of a more civilized population in this part of the world, others see in them nothing beyond what might have been executed by the naked savages, who have possessed these regions ever since they have been known to Europeans, and others have denied that the mounds were artificial works. The Indian tribes, who have been known to the whites, have had no traditions relative to this curious subject. The works are found all over the Mississippi valley, from the St. Peter's on the north to the delta of the Mississippi, and from the western parts of New York and Virginia to the plains of the Missouri, and are almost, if not quite, always situated on the alluvial flats or bottoms of the rivers.

There is a group of remarkable mounds not far from Natchez, in the village of Seltzertown, from which pipes, weapons, utensils, &c. have been obtained. The principal mound is 35 feet in height, with a flat summit of 4 acres in extent, surrounded by a low rampart or bank 2 or 3 feet high; upon this area rise 6 other mounds, one of which is 30 feet in height, or 65 feet above the level of the plain, and a collection of smaller hillocks are scattered around. There is another and similar group of 12 or 15 mounds nearer to Natchez. The American bottom in Illinois is remarkable for the number and size of the mounds, which are scattered, "like gigantic hay-cocks," over its surface; 20 of them may be counted near Cahokia, and the largest, which is surrounded by a group of 16 or 18 smaller ones, is 90 feet in height, with a base 600 yards in circumference. Among the fortifications, those of Chillicothe, of Circleville, which gave its name to the town, and Newark, in Ohio, deserve notice. The first mentioned consists of a square enclosure, surrounded by a rampart of earth 12 feet high, and 20 feet thick at the base, and covering more than 100 acres. That of Circleville was a similar enclosure of a circular shape, but it has been mostly destroyed, although numerous burrows or mounds still stand in the vicinity. At Newark there is also a circular rampart with lines

the Mexican gulf, and ready to utter the words, the feelings, and the experience, which they have treasured up in a traveling ministry of 50 years, and whose accents, trembling with age, still more impressively than their words, announce that they will soon travel, and preach no more on the earth, are there. Such are the preachers. "The line of tents is pitched; and the religious city grows up in a few hours under the trees, beside the stream. Lamps are hung in lines among the branches; and the effect of their glare upon the surrounding forest is as of magic. The scenery of the most brilliant theatre in the world is a painting only for children, compared with it. Meantime the multitudes, with the highest excitement of social feeling added to the general enthusiasm of expectation, pass from tent to tent, and interchange apostolic greetings and embraces, and talk of the coming solemnities. Their coffee and tea are prepared, and their supper is finished. By this time the moon, (for they take thought, to appoint the meeting at the proper time of the moon) begins to show its disk above the dark summits of the mountains; and a few stars are seen glimmering through the intervals of the branches. The whole constitutes a temple worthy of the grandeur of God. An old man, in a dress of the quaintest simplicity, ascends a platform, wipes the dust from his spectacles, and in a voice of suppressed emotion, gives out the hymn, of which the whole assembled multitude can recite the words,and an air, in which every voice can join. We should

deem poorly of the heart, that would not thrill, as the song is heard, like the sound of many waters,' echoing among the hills and mountains. Such are the scenes, the associations, and such the influence of external things upon the nature so fearfully and wonderfully' constituted, as ours, that little effort is necessary, on such a theme as religion, urged at such a place, under such circumstances, to fill the heart and the eyes. The hoary orator talks of God, of eternity, a judgment to come, and all that is impressive beyond. He speaks of his 'experiences,' his toils and travels, his persecutions and welcomes, and how many he has seen in hope, in peace, and triumph, gathered to their fathers; and when he speaks of the short space that remains to him, his only regret is, that he can no more proclaim, in the silence of death, the mercies of his crucified Redeemer.

"There is no need of the studied trick of oratory, to produce in such a place the deepest movements of the heart. No wonder, as the speaker pauses to dash the gathering moisture from his own eye, that his audience are dissolved in tears, or uttering the exclamations of penitence. Nor is it cause for admiration, that many, who poised themselves on an estimation of higher intellect and a nobler insensibility, than the crowd, catch the infectious feeling, and become women and children in their turn; and though they came to mock, remain to pray.'"— Flint's Geography.

diverging in different directions. In the western part of New York, there are three circular forts about 8 miles distant from each other, which have been thought to have enclosed and defended an ancient city. The American traveler, Captain Carver, describes an extensive work in the northern part of Wisconsin, about a mile in circuit, and requiring for its defence 5,000

men.

CHAPTER XXVIII. TENNESSEE.

1. Boundaries and Extent. lina; S. by Georgia, Alabama, it from Missouri and Arkansas. tween 35 and 36° 36′ N. lat., 45,000 square miles.

PHYSICAL GEOGRAPHY.

Tennessee is bounded N. by Kentucky; E. by North Caroand Mississippi; and W. by the river Mississippi, separating Its length is about 430 miles; its breadth 104. It lies beand between 81° 30′ and 90° 10′ W. long., and contains

2. Mountains. The Cumberland Mountains, extend through the State from northeast to southwest, dividing it into two sections, which geographers distinguish as East and West Tennessee. In East Tennessee are many parallel ridges, the most lofty of which are the Laurel, Stone, Yellow, Iron, Bald, and Unaka Mountains. All these are peaks of a continued chain, Walden's and Copper Ridge, and Church, Powell's, and Bay's Mountains, are in the northeast. The summits of some of these mountains exhibit plateaus of considerable extent, which admit of good roads, and are inhabited and cultivated. The mountains and hills subside as they approach the Mississippi and Ohio.

3. Valleys. The valleys of the small rivers are extremely beautiful, and rich beyond any of the same description in the Western States. The valleys of the great streams of the Tennessee and Cumberland, differ little from the alluvions of the other great rivers of the West. On the small valleys are many fine plantations, and yet so lonely that they seem lost among the mountains.

4. Rivers. The Tennessee rises in the Alleghany Mountains, traverses East Tennessee, and the northern section of Alabama, re-enters Tennessee, crosses its whole width into Kentucky, and passes into the Ohio, 57 miles above its junction with the Mississippi. It is near 1,200 miles in length, and is the largest tributary of the Ohio. It has numerous branches, and is navigable for boats for 1,000 miles; most of the branches rise among the mountains, and are too shallow for navigation, except during the floods which take place occasionally, at all seasons of the year, and admit flat boats to be floated down to the main stream. The principal branches are the Holston and Clinch, from the southwestern part of Virginia, and the French Broad and Hiwassee, from North Carolina. The current of the Tennessee is in general rapid, and is favorable only to downward navigation. At Muscle Shoals, the river expands to a width of several miles, and is very shallow. The principal tributaries of the Tennessee are the Elk and Duck. The River Cumberland rises in the Cumberland mountains in Kentucky, and after a course of nearly 200 miles in that State, passes into Tennessee, through which it makes a circuit of 250 miles, when it re-enters Kentucky and falls into the Ohio. In Tennessee it has several branches; it is a broad, deep, and beautiful stream; steamboats of the largest size ascend this river to Nashville, and keel-boats, in moderate stages of the water, 300 miles further. The Obion, Forked Deer, Big Hatchy, and Wolf rivers, in the western part of this State, flow into the Mississippi; these are all navigable for boats. No part of the western country is better watered than Tennessee.

5. Climate. The climate is delightful, being milder than in Kentucky, and free from the intense heat which prevails in the southern portion of the Mississippi valley. Snows of some depth are frequent in the winter, but the summers, especially in the higher regions, are mild. In these parts the salubrity of the climate is thought to equal that of any part of the United States; but the low valleys, where stagnant waters abound, and the alluvions of the great fivers, are unhealthy.

6. Soil. The soil in East Tennessee is remarkably fertile, containing great proportions of lime. In West Tennessee, the soil is various, and the strata descend from the mountains in the following order; first, loamy soil, or mixtures of clay and sand; next, yellow clay; thirdly, a mixture of red sand and red clay; lastly, white sand. In the southern parts, are immense beds of oyster shells, on high table land, at a distance from any stream; some of these shells are of an enormous size. The soil of the valleys and alluvions is extremely fertile.