Imágenes de páginas

bed she had quilted, and went through all the he has no linen for his table, no knives, no forks, customary ceremonies of an accouchment. The no spoons; he carries in his pocket a large knife Japse of a few months brought her acquainted with which he carves meat for the family; indifferwith another custom no less strange, but which ent bread and vegetables, stewed in sheep's fat, are occasioned in her bosom far different emotions. his usual fare, and when he eats meat, messes of Two travellers one evening knocked at the cot mutton are stewed up in grease; this luxury he tage, and requested permission to pass the night | devours in great quantities, bolting it down as in it. The generous Tartar, actuated by the some of our porters would for a wager; his most generosity which characterises his nation, readily urgent wants are satisfied in the easiest manner granted the request; and not satisfied with possible, to save exertion. Such was the de placing before them all the food his cottage af testable object which fell to Celina's lot at the forded, privately ordered his beauteous wife to Cape. To paint her feelings is impossible; offer them her person. Confoundeci at learning treated with the most brutal barbarity, and conthis was a ceremony which the Tartars never on strained to make soap or candles, or go through such occasions omit, she was at hrst unable either some other drudgery, she daily dragged on an to resist or obey; but recovering, she opposed existence the termination of which would have with the utmost energy a coinmand so repugnant

been happiness. to principle and delicacy. At length, however, The energies of poor Celina's mind were nearly she was constrained to comply; after which she annihilated by the evils which now oppressed with little difficulty submitted to another cere her, and which seemed durable as life, from the inony, which, according to Tartar belief, restores little probability there appeared of her being the purity which had been polluted. Her husband able to escape. She did escape, however, and gave her a succession of smart lashes over the her last translation was to Asiatic Turkey, where back and shoulders with a horse whip; in the she fell into the hands of a Jew dealer in slaves, course of which Morpheus again befriended her, she was purchased by a Mussulman, who conby transporting her to Ceylon, by the laws of veyed her to his haram ; where, regardless of the which place females are allowed to have two preliminary forins of courtship, he instantly behusbands.

gan an attack upon her person. Shocked and In this island Celina speedily made some con

disgusted at this brutality, Celina vigorously requests, and was espoused by two young friends, pulsed him, but arger augmenting bis natural who alternately shared her bed. The insensibi- superiority in strength, she was nearly overlity of the American savages was strongly con powered, when suddenly perceiving a dagger in trasted by the glowing ardour of these Indian his belt, she snatched it, and attempted to stab youths, and for a short time Celina thought her him. In the struggle she awoke, and experiself the happiest of mortals; but passions that enced a delightful revulsion of feeling on behold. are violent are never lasting, and the impassioned || ing Dorval at her bed side. tenderness of the young husbands was at length

The impression left on her mind made her feel succeeded by a contemptuous indifference. Ne in their full force all the advantages of her situaglected by them both, she passed her time in tion, while it diminished ihe magnitude of all vain regrets, yet could not wonder that coldness her real inconveniences, and annihilated those of should spring up in the bosom of those who can fancy. From this period her discontent vanished, admit a partner in their love. To console herself and if ever under any circumstances it threatened she gave encouragement to the passion of a to return, she took a retrospect of the miseries secret admirer, but was detected, and to escape

to which she had been subjected in her dream, the punishment of her infidelity flew to Africa.

and by reflecting that, instead of the mingled good Arrived at the Cape of Good Hope, she en

and evil which was her present lot, she might, countered an African Boor. Of all human beings || had it so pleased Providence, have been doomed the Boor of the Cape is the most detestable; in

to the unchequered wretchedness of some of her cruelty he surpasses the most ferocious savage; in visionary situations, she effectually kept at a dirt and indolence he is unequalled; the walls of || distance the enemy of her repose, gradually dohis wretched habitation are covered with spiders mesticated her husband, and proved, that though of an enormous size, and the vermin and filth | life furnished no happiness without alloy, it supwhich lay on the floor are never removed till || plies enough to satisfy every rational expecta: absolute necessity compels him to this exertion; | tion,


My mother being ordered by her physician most of the inns being very poor ones, so much to drink the Pyrenean mineral waters, we left || so, that some of them could scarcely protect Paris the 13th of July, at eight o'clock in the us from the nighily air, we were obliged to moming. After a journey of eleven days, and stop whenever we mct with one, the

appearance having passed through Orleans, Tours, Bor of which promised us a tolerable reception dcaux, Agen, and Tarbes, we arrived at the hot On my first arrival at Madrid, I imagined myself wells, situated in the midst of the Pyrenées. Sup at the furthermost extremity of the world: other ported by the hope of returning home, I here manners, another language; in short, my stale spent three inonths in the most disial inanner very much resembled that of Robinson Crusoe, possible. On the eve of our intended departure, || in his island. However, the kindness and attenmy mother received some intelligence which de tions of my relations soon reconciled me to my layed our journey; but hearing that my aunt


and I very shortly knew enough of was setting out for Madrid, and that she wished the language to be able to form an idea of the us to be of her party, and there pass the ensuing country. winter, my mother agreed that we should ac Madrid is rather a fine city, about four miles in company her; and we departed for Bavonne. I circumference: there are several very handsome was in despair at the idea of leaving my country, streets, though the whole of the ground is rather this being the first time I had ever quitted my on a declivity; the houses are generally well home, which contained many persons that were built, but badly ranged. Madrid is ill situated, infinitely dear to me; my period of exile, as I on a rising ground, in the centre of a barren considered it, being expired, I had been for plain, bounded by a chain of mountains, some some time fondly anticipating the delight I

of which are covered with snow. Several fine should experience in again being re-united to my bridges cross the river Mancanarès, which flows, father, brothers, and sisters; and to be disap through one end of the city, and which is often pointed, appeared the greatest misfortune that dry. could happen to me. I was, however, obliged Fire-places and carpets are seldom seen in to comply; and having joined my aunt, we left Spain; in lieu of the former, they make use of a Bayonne on the 1st of November. After having brasero, or stove, placed in the middle of the traversed the river Bidassoa, we saw the famous i apartment, which is very unwholesome. Mais Isle of the Conference; we afterwards crossed occupy the place of carpets. Biscay, which is a very pleasant mountainous The cliinate of Madrid is rather extraordinary ; country. These mountains are cultivated up to the winter of 1790 was uncommonly mild. Dur. the summit, the views are very fine, and there ing the mont'is of January and February, the are many limpid streams. The inhabitauts are

atınosphere was perfectly serene; at noon the of a lively disposition, and are generally hand heat of the sun was insupportable, and in the some; they speak a sort of Patois, corrupted shade it froze very hard. The nights were very from the Spanish. There are scarcely any lakes, cold, and the air much keener than in France.which facilitates commerce, and consequently || This winter was said to be the finest the Spaniards adds to the fertility of the country. We passed had enjoyed for many years. The spring was through Victoria, the principal town of Biscay, very rainy, and the warm weather, which geneand afterwards traversed ancient Castillia. The rally begins in April, did not commence till the roads here are very bail, a great part of the coun 18th of June; at this period it was almost une try uncultivated, and both the villages and in-bearable. habitants appear very miserable. On our way The Spaniards are rather grave, and, to me, we passed through several large towns, such as they appeared far from amiable; they associale Valadoli, Burgos, and some others. We after but little together. Each lady has at her house, wards traversed New Castillia, which is also very in the afternoon, tetuille, an assemblage, of seven far from a pleasant country. Atlasi, af:er having or eight persons. At these meetings chocolate travelled four hundred and fifty miles in sixteen is served, and those who wish it play at cards; days, we arrived at Madrid. The diligence per. but each person dines at home; afterwards they forms this journey in six days; and those who take the siesta, and then visit the theatre. travel by the tiros, as we did, generally in ten or Miny Spanish ladies of condition have the eleven days; but we, being a large company, and greatest part of their fortunes at their own dis

The apart.

posal; but they have to bear the expences of though not so large as that of Versailles : it is their establishments, which, owing to their nu true that none but the King's household inhabit merous retinue, and bad management, are far it, which are far from numerous. from inconsiderable.

ments are commodious; an immense number of The Spaniards never visit but on particular paintings and portraits are found there, and among occasions. The nobility dress e-la-Fruncaise to them some chefs-d'aurre of the best masters, go to the theatre, to pay visits, and also when particularly Raphael. The chapel is fine, and they go out in their carriages. The ladies are the treasury very considerible. There exists still much attached to our fashions; they however at Madrid an ancient palace, called the ketiro: dress in the costume of their country to go to the exterior of it is very ugly, but it contains church, to walk, and to remain at honie. This miany fine paintings. lu the centre of the courtcostume is very pretry, when elegant. It consists yard is seen the statue of Phillip IV. on horseof a basquire, or black petticoat, more or less back; it is reckoned very fine, on account of ornamented, a black body à-rei-desille, which the horse being represented on full gullop. is a silken bag, for the purpose of confining the People pretend that a bar of iron being fixed hair at the back of the head; and a mantle, through the horse's tail makes it retain this posiwhich is a piece of silk, or muslin, placed on the tion. The garden belonging to the Retiro is very head, and which falls something similar to a cloak. extensive, but in bad order. Foreigners are obliged to assume the Spanish cos The churches in Spain are clean and much tume when they walk out, or go to church. With ornamented, particularly at Madrid; they are respect to the men, all those who call themselves very magnificent, but there are no chairs, and gentlemen dress like those of other European na one is compelled to sit upon hassocks on the tions, with the exc .ption of their queux, which | ground. are very large. Men of all ranks, both winter The cabinet of natural history is carefully preand summer, almost always put on la capa, served and very curious. There is an immense which is a sort of Spanish mantle. The com- number of agales, metals, and animals of every mon people generally wear jackets with a net to species. There is also a collection of all the confine the hair. The Mujis, or fashionables, || various marble of the country. The animals are such as those who ilance the valero, or those who very badly stuffed, because the Spaniards are engage the bull, wear little jackets very tastefully | totally ignorant of the proper manner of doing and magnificently ornamented; this dress is ibin, this. There is a skeleton which was discovered very light, and pretty. The nobility have a pecu forty feet under ground, is much larger than Jiar costume to wear during passion week: the any elephant, and of quite a different form. ladies have a black body to their gowns, orna

The prato (so called from its being originally mented with maroon and gold, on their heads a field), is the most pleasant as well as the inost they wear a lace veil, which becomes them ex- || fashionable promenade in Madrid; it was made tremely. The gentlemen's coats are black and into a walk by the Count Aranda. It consists of

several rows of trees, which form a delightful With respect to education, the great and the shade for pedestrians; there is a road in the lower orders may be ranged in the same class, centre which is every Sunday filled by two rows as all their learning consists in being able to play of splendid equipages. The King and the royal the guitar. Some of the former, indeed, speak | family often take the air here in their carriages. a linle French. Those who have received the Tir prato is ornamented with eight fountains best instructions are the class of Ousia, the coun which add greatly to the beauty of this charming cillors of Castille, lawyers, and the military. promenade. There is a b tanical garden also

The common people are very lazy and dirty. I which comes out upon the prato, and is reckone Here, a man will as soon give a blow with hised very curious. There are several promenades poignard as in another country abuse; and an in Madrid, but none that can vie with the one I aftrout is never forgotten, an I never pardonedhave endeavoured to describe. without revenge. The Spaniard is sober, he lives I also visited the manufactory of Mosaic work, on chocolate and proudehero, a sort of bouilli. The which is certainly very worthy the attention of most disgraceful epithet you can fasten on a man all strangers. To complete a table of Mosaic i, io call him a drunkard; it is also true that work is the employment of a whole year : the they are very rarely met with.

King has several of them of the most exquisite The most remarkable things to be seen at Ma- beauty. drid, are the palace, the churches, the manufac During the eight months I passed at Madrid, I tory of Mosaic work, the cabinet of natural his- | witnessed two bull-fights: the first in autumn, tory, the prato, and the buil-fight.

the other in spring; for there is none in winter. The palace is quite new and very handsome, | This spectacle is extremely cruel, and not at all



amusing ; yet it excites a kind of attention pro with a blow froin his lance, and gave the unfor. duced by a mixture of fear and hope, which, tunate man time to escape. Immediately this when you have once entered a box, detains you man, whom I thought lifeless, arose, sprang upon almost against your will. From what I have another horse, and was as well as before, with the seen I will endeavour to give an idea of it. exception of a slight wound on his forehead.

Figure to yourself an extensive circle perfectly Seldom a combat of this kind passes without round, and without any awning over it; in the several dreadful fulls, and generally seven centre is the place of combat, inclosed by a bar- | eight horses are killed. rier of about six feet in height. About three feet When the bull, weakened by the wounds he farther there is a second barrier with ropes, to has received, will no longer attack the Picadors, ensure the safety of the spectators. On a level they retire, and the Tchulos enter the lists. These with this commences the first row of seats, fola are nine or ten men on fvot, completely habited lowed by seven or eight others in the form of an in the Spanish dress, each of them is armed with amphitheatre; above these is a row of boxes. In two banderilles (a kind of javelins), and running one of these a priest always attends with the ex across the area, they stick their banderilles in the treme unction, to administer to any of the com

neck of the bull, who endeavours to rush upon batants in case they should receive a mortal

them, but is disappointed by their leaping over wound.

the barrier, at the instant when one would supa Four officers of justice enter the lists, and read pose they were going to be torn to pieces by the aloud a paper which forbids any of the spectators enraged animal. These men appear to run the from leaving their seats. Then two Alguasils greatest danger, however, there are few instances on horseback appear, with whips in their hands, of their being even wounded. It is thought that a little black mantle over their shoulders, and on

the banderilles torment the bull more than any their heads they wear either a white or carroty | thing; when the Tchulo leaps the barrier, the wig, and a hat mounted with feathers. The disappointed animal roars and foams with rage. Alguasils oblige the people to take their seats,

After a while a trumpet is sounded, which is the and then give an order for the bull to enter.

signal of death. At this momont the one who These men make the most ridiculous appearance kills, called a Matador, advances on foot, mag. that can be conceived, they also afford great en nificently dressed, bearing a sword in one hand, tertainment to the lower order of spectators.

and a red mantle in the other. There are but They admit three or four Picadors, according to very few good Matadors. The same man kills the number of bulls that are to be baited. As | in one day twelve bulls; he approaches the anisoon as these enter they are armed with a lance mal, speaks to him as to a dog, and plays with about eight or nine feet in length, with a small him for a few minutes; at last, seizing the mopiece of iron at the end. Then the Aguasils ment when the bull springs on the niantle, the open the door of the place where the animal Matador plunges his sword between the animal's is confined, and hastily gallop off; the bull shoulders. The most skillful give but one blow; rushes into the middle of the square; immedi

then the plaudits commence, and the expiring ately the connoisseurs form their opinion of him;

bull is dragged out by three nules well harnessed. if the beast be furious he is deemed excellent ; In a few minutes the door opens, a new victim but if, on the contrary, he be rather tame, he is appears, and the same scene recommences. thought good for nothing. The Picadors are not When a bull is not a good one, that is to say, permitted to attack the bull, the animal must when he will not rush upon the horses, he is first approach them; then the instant the bull not considered worthy of fighting with men; he falls on their horse, the Picador stops him by

is first baited by dogs, and then a sword is plunged plunging his lance into the beast's throat; but into his side. this wound only irritates him, without having

During the summer there are every Monday the power to kill. If the Picador misses his aim two bull fights, twelve aro killed in the morning he is thrown down, trampled upon, and very

and eighteen in the evening The Spaniards frequently dangerously wounded. I witnessed | would sell their last shirt to attend them. The several tremendous falls; in one of these a Pica- | nobility, who pique themselves upon their libcdor tumbled with his horse, the furious bullli rality, give a great deal of money to some of the immediately began to tear the poor animal with Matadors. . The Duchess of Albe, witnessing a his horns, while the people threw at him hats, combat, was so charmed with the dexterity of mantles, and every thing they could procure, and one of these men, that she tore a diamond buckle the other combatants endeavoured to entice him from her shoe, and threw it him. towards them in order to extricate their compa

There are at Madrid three theatres, two in mon, but to no purpose; at last, one more which Spanish plays are performed, and the o:her Cuurageous than the rest, threw down the bull an Italian Opera. An attempt was made to estan


blish a French theatre, but it did not meet with with which his father had infected the environs

The Spanish plays are reckoned good of Madrid. of their kind, which is totally different from ours. The King possesses some very beautiful AndaThe Italian Opera is generally very bad ;. the lusian horses, but he generally makes use of great ladies here have a custom of selecting an mules. actress or dancer, which they in a great measure About twenty years since, a very strange cus. adopt, and overwhelm with presents, consisting tom was established at court celebrate Christa of money, dress, trinkets, &c. There is a sort of

mas; it is the Nasimiento, which signifies, the grotesque dancers that are always inyoduced in birth. There is in the interior of the palace an ballets, and are frightfully ridiculous; they dis immense wooden hall; for several months preplay feats of strength and agility that astonish, vious to Christmas, workmen are employed to but do not at all please, and are, in my opinion, | build in this place a country in miniature. Thou. a disgrace to a royal theatre; they, however, meet sands of wax figures, of about one foot in height, with much applause from the common people. I all clothed in the costume of their country, are The Opera-house is rather a fine building, but

here displayed; these are wonderfully well exis, as well as the other iwo, but very poorly ecuted. There are also numerous habitations, lighted.

Roman edifices, rivers, fleets, in short, a whole The Court remains all the winter at Madrid ; ' country, the horizon of which (like reality) apat the end of April they depart for Aranjuez, ' pears to touch the heavens. The intention of where they continue till the beginning of July, the inhabitants is to rejoice at the birth of when they return to Madrid; in the month of

our Saviour. The Magi, with numerous folAugust they again quit it for St. Ildephonse, or, lowers, are seen going to present their offerings as it is also called, La Grange; and about No to Christ. Thousands of wax Cupids, artfully vember repair to the Escurial, where they remain | placed, shed a inild, yet brilliant light, over the till the fifteenth of December. There are few whole. The Nasimiento is so very extraordinary, places of consequence at court, and their emo that it is impossible, unless it be witnessed, 10 luments are but small. The royal children's | forin a just idea of it. It is exhibited for about governess has only a salary of five hundred pounds fifteen days; the King invites all those he pleases per annum, which does not give a very exalted should see it. It is said that the Nasimiento costs idea of the riches of this court. The Prince of every year nearly thirty thousand pounds. Asturias' iutur, at first, refused this situation, On the tenth of April we left Madrid, with saying he was not rich enough. There are few

the court, for Aranjuez, situated about twentyladies of condition attached to the court; they one miles from Madrid. The country is truly are in the right, as their own establishments delightful; the palace is fine, and contains many nearly equal the Queen's. The great sometimes good paintings, particularly portraits. There is fill the first stations in the army, without, how a very large one called the beheading of St. John, ever, going upon actual service, as in other but which is in reality the representation of the countries; those who do sn in Spain are second- l death of Charles II. All the personages may be rate gentry. Officers are obliged to appear always easily recognized, such as Philip IV. the Queen, in uniform. The nobility only go to court on the Grand Inquisitor, Charles II. and many gala days, such as birth-days, and the anniver others. saries of the royal family's marriages; then the The village of Aranjuez is built after the Dutch Jadies are covered with gold, silver, and various style; that is to say, the houses have only one ill-chosen ornaments. On these occasions all

story, and the streets are ornamented with who have a place at couri, even his Majesty's || four rows of trees. Aranjuez is situated in the gardener, and all the nobility that are present, || middle of a valley filled with trees, and Powery put one knee to the ground and kiss the hands of | meadows watered by the Tage, which is, how. all the royal family; ambassadors alone are ex ever, unfortunately not very fine, being not far empt froin this custom.

from its source ;

the hills are barren, but the The King has six hundred body guards, who tall trees hide them almost from the view. There form three companies, the Spanish, the Flemish

are several royal gardens, such as that of the (or French), and the Italian. He has besides | Island, and the Prince's. The first is an extenthese, two regiments oj guards; the Spanish, that sive island filled with losty trees, which preclude is kept in very bad order, and that of the Val the light of the sun; in some of the walks basons lones Guardes, composed of Frenchmen. The and statues are found, which make it resemble late King of Spain passed the greatest part of his our gardens. That of the Prince is also very life in hunting; the present King is also very extensive and very pleasant, contains some fond of this exercise, but he destroys the game foreign trees, and an astonishing number of

« AnteriorContinuar »