and the Capt. Jaramillo. They proceeded on the Pacific slope, westward of the mountains separating the waters of the continent. In thirty days they arrived at Chichilti-calli, (house of Chichilti,) on the edge of a desert and chain of mountains. This point, according to Coronado's own account, was ten days' journey from the mouth of the river, or from the sea. In attaining it they had crossed several streams, Petatlan, Cinaloa, Taquemi and Senora, upon the banks of which they found a considerable agricultural population. All these streams fell into the Gulf of California, and this point was estimated to be three hundred leagues north of Culican. After crossing the mountains, (probably a spur of the Sierra Mimbres, separating the lower or main fork of the Gila from its other more northern tributaries, or from the eastern tributaries of the Colorado,) they found several rivers, which they called San Juan, Frio, and Vermejo, and in thirteen days arrived at the first village of Cibola. The village was small, containing perhaps two hundred warriors: the houses were three or four stories high, composed of stones and mud. The inhabitants of the province, which was composed of seven villages, situated in a valley six leagues long, all united in defence of the first town. They were attacked and defeated, and the whole province brought at once in submission. The horses and fire-arms of the invaders were as effectual here, in inspiring terror and subduing the inhabitants, as they had proved among the more civilized people to the southward.

Twenty-five leagues further to the northwestward, the Spaniards heard of another province, called Tucayan, also containing several towns, which was conquered by a detachment sent by Coronado.

Shortly after some Indians came to Cibola from Cicuyé, situated seventy leagues to the north-east, who tendered the services and friendship of their nation. Coronado sent Capt. Alvarado to accompany them back. After five days' march, crossing mountains, they arrived at a village called Acuco, (Acoma of Lieut. Abert,) built upon an inaccessible rock, the inhabitants of which made peace with the Spaniards. Three days after, Alvarado reached the province of Tiguex, from whence he sent a messenger to Coronado, advising him to take up his quarters in

that district, and in five days reached Cicuyė. He soon returned to Tiguex, where he was joined by Coronado, and where he wintered.

These operations had been carried on by an advance detachment. The main body designed for the expedition, remained at Culican for a time, but afterwards advanced to the valley of Senora, (thus called to this day,) when provisions being abundant, they established a temporary colony.

Melchior Diaz remained with a detachment as Governor of Cibola, and a man named Gallego returned to Senora, conveying the news of Coronado's conquests, and taking with him the monk Niza, whose relations having been proved wholly false, he was in danger of losing his life at the hands of the enraged soldiers. We hear no more of him.

The remainder of the army under the guidance of Gallego, followed the track of Coronado, arrived at Cibola, and in the beginning of December left that place to join their commander at Tiguex. This last stage occupied them ten days; they crossed mountains, when it snowed every night,-passing, in some places, through snow three feet deep. Their arrival at Tiguex was opportune, for the province, in consequence of the excesses of the Spaniards, had revolted. It required two months to reduce the people once more to obedience, during which time many severe contests seem to have taken place.* tion of the inhabitants fled to the mountains, and could not be induced to return while the Spaniards were in the territory.

A por

In the spring, (5th of May,) the Spaniards left Tiguex for Cicuyé, twenty-five leagues to the north-east. Near here they found a deep river which it was necessary to cross on a bridge. Proceeding upon information, intentionally deceptive and undoubtedly designed by the Indians to lead them out of their country, they continued their march to the north-eastward, and at the end of six or seven days came to great plains, where for the first time they found Buffaloes. "These animals and

*Gomara states that the reduction of one of the towns occupied the Spanish forces for fortyfive days. "The people, when besieged, drunk snow instead of water, and seeing themselves forlorne, made a great fire, wherein they cast all their valuables, their mantles and feathers, so that t strangers might not enjoy them."

Some monks, with a few followers, persisted in remaining behind in Tiguex, but most of them were soon killed, and the rest obliged to leave the country. Never

ous missionaries found their way into the country; and, in about forty years subsequently to Coronado's evacuation, a part of Tiguex was occupied by a party of Spaniards under one Leyva Bonillo. It does not appear, however, that much was

country, until about 1600, when it was occupied by Juan de Onate. Eighty years afterwards, (1680,) the Indians revolted throughout the entire region and massacred the Spaniards, but were again reduced, after a protracted contest of ten years, (in 1690,) since which time they have been, nominally at least, subject to the Spaniards. The Moqui and Navajos, however, succeeded in maintaining their inde pendence, which they still preserve.

their immense numbers, the plains with their deep ravines, and the Indians totally differing from those they had yet encountered, deriving their food and clothing from the Buffalo, are all minutely describ-theless, a few years thereafter, some zealed. The description would now apply with precision to the country and the tribes which still inhabit it. The latter they called Querechos, which are undoubt edly the Arapahoes. Coronado, discouraged by the unpromising prospect, sent back the main body of the army, proceed-done towards the second reduction of the ing himself with thirty-six men to the northward, in search of a country abounding in the precious metals, which he was still assured existed in that direction. He soon met with a tribe of Indians, distinct from the Querechos, which were called "Teyas," (Taos?) who came into these plains to hunt the Buffalo. Their residence was in the valley of the Tiguex river, above the nation of that name. "They are said to be late invaders, who had come from the north, and had de- In determining the several localities stroyed some villages in the vicinity of visited by Coronado, with the purpose of Cicuye, but being repelled there, had ascertaining the positions of Cibola, Timade peace with the other inhabitants of guex, Cicuyé, etc., we must not forget the valley, and settled near them." They that the Spaniards, wandering in a new proved friendly towards the Spaniards, country, could not have kept their bearand supplied them with guides. Coronado ings or recorded distances with great excontinued his march northward still fur- actness. We can regard their estimates ther, as high, Mr. Gallatin believes, as the therefore as only approximating to the 40th parallel of latitude, where he found truth. Besides, our knowledge of the Indians who still hunted the Buffalo, but geography of this wide region is, even who had some fixed villages. He also re- now, quite limited. The maps of Emceived information of a great river, the ory, Abert, Farnham, Gregg, and others, banks of which were thickly inhabited, have furnished a very good general outwhich must have been the Missouri or line, leaving, nevertheless, some broad Mississippi. He proceeded no further, blanks to be supplied by future exthe season being advanced, but returned plorers. Of the region between the to Tiguex, where, with his whole army, Gila and Colorado, in which, near the he spent the winter of 1541-42. It was dividing ridge of the continent, the "Kirg his evident intention to resume his explo-dom of the Cibola" was undoubtedly siturations to the north in the spring, but an accidental wound, and the attractions of a noble wife and young family at home, together with the disappointment and discontent of his followers, led him to evacuate a territory which held out no inducements for retaining possession. Accordingly, in the spring, he led his army back to Culican; but, bringing no treasures, no second Montezuma to grace his return, he was coldly received by the Viceroy, lost his reputation and his government of New Gallicia together, and went into retirement, a disappointed man

ated, we have very little knowledge, general or geographical, beyond that furnished by the early explorers. The deficiency, it is believed, will not offer an insurmountable obstacle to the success of our inquiry.

Allowing thirty miles to the day's march, which is about the average, under favorable circumstances, we have one hundred and twenty miles as the distance between the point on the Senora river, left by Coronado in his advance, and Chichilti-calli, betweeD longitudes 109° and 110° W. This is, according to the best maps, about the distance between the Senora river and the

Gila, called Nexpa by the chronicler. The | his relation, however, that he travelled but discovery, upon the Nexpa, of ruined edi- | thirty leagues and two days; in all say forty fices, corresponding with those known to exist on the Gila, supports the belief that the two are identical, at the same time that it attests the antiquity of these remains. The description of Chichilti-calli, by Castenada, the chronicler of Coronado's expedition, represents it as situated at the edge of the desert of Cibola, consisting of a large roofless structure, built of red earth, and apparently at one time fortified. It is stated to have been destroyed by the natives, who constitute the most barbarous people found in the region, probably the roving Apaches.

According to the relation of Castenada, (which was, however, committed to writing twenty years after the occurrences to which it refers,) they were thirteen days from the ruins of Chichilti-calli, on the Nexpa or Gila, to the first town of Cibola, named Granada by Coronado, and situated upon a river flowing westward. The distance to this point from the Gila, upon our previous basis, would be nearly four hundred miles; but in crossing mountains or traversing a broken country, transversely to the direction of its water courses, they could not have exceeded, but would probably have fallen below, twenty miles a day, which, for thirteen days, would amount to about two hundred miles. Assuming that they kept due north from their former position, (which they must have done, unless they crossed the great dividing ridge of mountains, here running north and south,) they would, in this distance, have nearly arrived at the valley of the stream known as the Rio Jaquesila, one of the largest eastern tributaries of the Rio Colorado, the position of which is only approximately known. Coronado himself, in his letter to Mendoza, does not state the number of days occupied in this last march. He speaks of it, however, as far the most difficult part of his journey, and says, "The first day we found no grass, but a worser way for mountains and bad passages, than we had yet passed, and the horses being tired and greatly molested therewith, so that we lost more horses than we lost before, and some of my Indians died, and one Spaniard and two negroes, who died of eating herbs for lack of victuals." He elsewhere, says It S a most wicked way, because of its inaccessible mountains." It appears from

leagues or one hundred and twenty miles. The towns of the Cibola may have been situated upon some of the branches of the Jaquesila which take their rise in the mountains west from Santa Fé. It is, however, most likely, that they occupied the valley of some one of the northern tributaries of the Gila. But from what we can learn of these streams, there are none of them which extend thirteen days northward, unless it is the Rio Salinas of Lieut. Emory.* It may be regarded as certain, whatever the stream upon which they are situated, whether a tributary of the Gila or of the Colorado, that the towns of the Cibola occurred about one hundred and fifty miles northward of the Gila, about sixty miles from the western base of the Sierra de Anahuac, the dividing ridge between the waters of the Colorado and Rio Grande, between lat. 35° and 37° N., and long. 108° and 110° W.

From the accounts, the towns of Tucayan were situated about seventy-five miles to the northeast of Cibola, upon the same side of the mountains. We have no knowledge of any locality, corresponding in position, now retaining traces of an aboriginal civilization. It now, probably, falls in the country of the Navajos. There can be no doubt, however, as to the position of the town of Acuco. It answers fully to the existing town of Acoma, visited by Lieut. Abert, which, as already mentioned, is situated among the mountains, upon the San José, a small branch of the Puerco, a tributary of the Rio Grande. In reaching this point, Coronado's followers crossed the dividing ridge through the snow, as already described.

The river of the Tiguex, three days' march beyond Acoma, upon which the

*If Lieut. Emory is correct in supposing that the Rio Salinas holds the course indicated by the dotted line on his map, there can be no doubt that the Cibola villages were situated upon that river. We must, however, cut down the day's journey of

Castenada to ten or fifteen miles, otherwise we shall place the Cibola country in too high a latitude. On the hypothesis that Lieut. Emory is correct, and that these towns were upon the Salinas the rest of Castenada's account is not only consistent with itself, but wonderfully accurate, in respect to courses and distances. The ruined buildings on the Salinas, of which Lieut. Emory speak would favor this conclusion.

3

towns bearing the same name were situated, | are clearly those which are now called is clearly the Rio Grande. Following the the Taos Indians. They have very nearly course of the streams, which the Spaniards assimilated to the descendants of the would naturally do, the distance from Tiguex. It is equally clear that the QueAcoma to the Rio Grande is about ninety rechos, the roving hunters of the buffak miles. Here we find Quivera, Quarra, plains, were no other than the Arapahoes. Tegique, Jemez and other towns, which are Respecting the ruins of Chichilti, found easily to be recognized in the Quivix or on the Gila, it may be observed that Quirix, the Tiguex and Hemez of Caste- one of the Indian towns, to the east of tim nada's narrative. Nor is there any difficulty Rio Grande, is to this day called Chichili in deciding, from the description of the or Chillili, a coincidence worth mention chronicler, that the present almost im- ing, in connection with the story of the pregnable Pueblo of Taos is the identical Spaniards, that the ruined buildings were prodigious structure called Braba at this built by an extinct colony of the people of early period. Cibola or Tiguex.

Cicuyé, which is said to have been five days' march to the northeast of Tiguex, was probably the town now in ruins, known as the ruins of Pecos, and situated upon the large eastern tributary of the Rio Grande, bearing the name of Rio Pecos.* If not that particular town, it must have been one not far distant from it. Pecos is distant about one hundred miles northeast of the present town of Tegique, or one hundred and twenty miles northeast of the point where Coronado must first have struck the Rio Grande.

There is no difficulty, as has been already observed, in recognizing the region into which Coronado penetrated, after leaving Cicuyé. The first river encountered was the Rio Mora, the main branch of the Nutria or North Canadian fork of the Arkansas. The main body of the Spaniards wandered through the plains above the Nutria for thirty-seven days, and according to Castenada's computation must have travelled two hundred leagues beyond Tiguex. It cannot be supposed, however, that they maintained a constant direction. In returning, under the guidance of some Tejos Indians, they reached the river of Cicuyé or Pecos, thirty leagues below the place where they passed it before. They were told that it united with the Tiguex or Rio Grande, twenty days' journey to the southward. Allowing twenty miles to the days' journey, this would make the point of junction exactly where recent discoveries have ascertained that it occurs.

The Tejos Indians, (which Mr. Gallatin, by mistake, often calls Texans,) who occupied the upper waters of the Rio Grande,

*On some maps this river is incorrectly named Pue.co.

If any doubt still exists as to the correctness of the position which we have assigned to the country of Cibola, it must be entirely dispelled by the following passages fr the relation of Antonio de Espejo, who visited this region about forty years alter Coronado's expedition; and who not onȚ passed through Tiguex into Cibola, but int the, as yet, unvisited country of the Maqa further to the westward. This relat seems entirely to have escaped the attion of the various authors and explorers already named. It will be seen that the Soones of Lieut. Emory, and the Zunris Mr. Gregg, are none other than the people of Cibola themselves, still occupying th country possessed by their ancestors E 1540.*

In 1581-83, Espejo, proceeding up the accounts of Ruiz, a Franciscan motk started with a numerous train of followers for the mines of San Barbara, in th department of New Biscay, (now falling r the state of San Luis Potosi,) and directed his course to the northeast. He encount ed many Indian nations, and finally resched the Rio Grande, which he ascended ↑ Tiguex. He left it at the proper per probably near the mouth of the Pers and directed his course westwardly, to

* We are thus relieved from the in;r 's'à supposition which Mr. Gallatin' hyp volves, namely, that the towns of the C been destroyed by the Apaches, and the ants scattered beyond recognition. it should be observed, places Cibola on the waters of the principal fork of the 65% or of the Gila proper. From the acc nada, it seems very certain that the A;that time, occupied this very rezive 2. ready destroyed the colonies winch 1. Chichilti-calli, and the other structures t's in ruins.