ent stage of the disease; but as our residence was in one of the most salubrious parts of the city, we gradually became unconcerned about it, and went and came day and evening in any part of the city without apprehension, and, as it proved, without danger. Our diet was the same as it would be in the United States. The yellow fever is not necessarily a fatal disease, unless there be inherent weakness of the constitution. The great preventives are to avoid excess in respect to exposure, fatigue, and diet. The first remedies are important yet simple. As soon as one has the symptoms, which are severe pain in the head and back, the approved practice is to go to bed, take a big dose of castor-oil, and after that has had effect, aconite in water to produce sweat. Good nursing, and especially watching in the night, with frequent ice and milk, and iced Seltzer-water, are important. Most frequently the fatal cases are where single men or others lodge in apartments alone, and become very ill before any friend or acquaintance knows their condition. I do not think much confidence is felt at Rio in the system of inoculation against yellow fever, and which is but slightly in vogue there. Usually a few deaths from the disease are reported in December, and the mortality increases till into March and April, which are the worst months. There was a bad epidemic in 1883; another, though lighter, in 1884; still lighter in 1885; but worse, again, in 1886. The deaths from yellow fever for the first half of 1886 were nine hundred and sixty-seven. There is a public yellow-fever hospital, called Jurujuba, situated on the shore of a distant inlet on the opposite side of the bay from Rio. If a seaman on any vessel is sick with the fever, a yellow flag is hoisted and a public health-boat comes and takes him to the hospital.

For a few years back a regulation of the port of Rio has required all vessels arriving in the hot season to anchor, discharge and load cargo at least a mile from shore, which has had a remarkably good effect in keeping the yellow fever from the shipping, but adds greatly to the expense of transportation.

On account of a certain dampness in the atmosphere of Rio, there is more mortality from consumption than from yellow fever. The deaths from consumption in June, 1886, were one hundred and fifty. Dr. James A. Stewart, M. D., Commissioner of Health and Registrar for the city of Baltimore, writing me under date of December 15, 1884, said: "The mortuary reports of the city of Rio de Janeiro, which I have had the pleasure to receive from you for some time past, have greatly interested me on account of the surprising preponderance of pulmonary consumption over all other causes of death. We have evidently been making a great mistake in sending our consumptive patients to Rio for relief."

CHAPTER IV.

LIFE AND MANNERS.

At our residence up in Rua das Larangeiras, two miles from the busiest part of the city, Sundays, and especially Sunday mornings, seemed as quiet as they are in the United States. To me those mornings, so tranquil, so clear and sunny, were generally very charming. Foliage-covered hills behind and in front of the house gave the place a country aspect. The wren, and numerous other small birds, in some tall trees in the door-yard, made the air vocal with their notes. But sometimes, and as if to show a certain laxness of affairs, the discordant report of a musket would come from one of the hills, where a mischievous boy was hunting birds. As a rule, Sunday is a quiet day at Rio, though many retail shops are kept open, and some kinds of out-door labor carried on. Billiardrooms and other places of amusement are more frequented then than on week-days. Though Brazil is a Catholic country, religious liberty is declared in the Constitution, and exists practically in the principal cities. A Protestant at Rio, wishing to attend public religious worship, would find several churches on a respectable footing. The Chapel of the Church of England is a building which will comfortably seat several hundred people, has a good organ, and is frequented by a fair congregation composed of British subjects and Americans. The preaching is by

tor.

Rev. Frederick Young, A. M., an able and attentive pasThe Presbyterian church dates back many years, and has a numerous membership among the native poorer class. The church building is spacious, the services are in the Portuguese language, and the singing is congregational. It is mainly supported by the American Presbyterian Missionary Society, and the American pastors are Rev. Messrs. Houston and Kyle. An able Brazilian preaches Sunday evenings. The Presbyterians also have a church at Bahia and at several other places. The Methodists, of the Methodist Episcopal Church, South, who for some time held services in their neat chapel about opposite the Strangers' Hotel, have lately built a fine church edifice adjoining the chapel, where religious exercises and Sunday-school are held in English in the morning, and in Portuguese in the evening. The pastors, Revs. J. J. Ransom (temporarily at Juiz de Fora) and J. L. Kennedy, preach in both languages. The Baptists also have a church, under the charge of Rev. W. B. Bagby. All these pastors whose names I have mentioned have their families living at Rio, and command respect. Mr. Ransom is a preacher of unusual eloquence. The Methodists are looking forward to have an important young ladies' school established at Rio, under their auspices. The Woman's Missionary Society, of the Methodist Episcopal Church, South, of which Mrs. Juliana Hayes, of Baltimore, is president, undertook to raise a fund of fifty thousand dollars for a young ladies' school in Brazil, to serve as a centenary monument of the Methodist Church. Over half of the amount had been raised in 1885. I might here say that there are perhaps two hundred Americans residing at Rio; the proportion of English, French, and Germans is much larger-of

course the largest separate foreign element is the Portuguese.

I should say that a vast majority of the population of Rio are indifferent to religious matters. One effect of the increase of Protestant churches in Brazil will be an

awakening of the Catholic Church. There is nothing more beneficial than competition. At present the Catholic Church in Brazil is in a feeble state. But there are many of the best Brazilian families who are religious, and who, by a posture of devotion before a meal or other act, manifest a thoughtfulness of religion. Seven days after the death of a near relative, the whole family attends a special mass at church, and another at the anniversary of the death. There is not preaching, however, regularly in the Catholic churches on Sundays. The Catholic priests are poorly paid. As an intellectual force they amount to but very little, and do not have that consideration which the Catholic clergy enjoy in Protestant countries. After the Protestant Church gets well established in Brazil, and church-attendance becomes as popular as it is in England and the United States, the Catholic Church will very likely exert a more elevating influence than it now does. A Brazilian official told Mr. Chamberlain, the Presbyterian missionary at São Paulo, that he wished he would spread his religion, citing the influence of an old Brazilian citizen, of local influence, living in a remote country place in the province of São Paulo, who had been converted to the Presbyterian faith and held prayer-meetings in his house, and from whose district no crimes were reported.

In the larger cities, where there is more than ordinary intelligence, the Protestant missionaries are pretty sure of peaceable treatment; but occasionally, in remote