Hon. LEO W. O'BRIEN, BORDER TRADING POST, Chairman, House Subcommittee on Territories and Insular Affairs, Washington, D. C. DEAR MR. CHAIRMAN O'BRIEN: I wished that I had known that you were in Fairbanks, Alaska, and could have brought this matter, which I am writing, to your attention at that time. My news reaches me so out of date that when I did know of your presence in Fairbanks, you and your party left. However I wish to stress the fact that I live on the Alaska-Yukon border some 300 miles southeast of Fairbanks, on the Alaska Highway, and that what we need now is an immigration and customs office here, rather than at Tok Junction which is approximately 100 miles northwest of here. One of my competitors has been using Canadian labor for the past years and had them build, maintain and help operate the place. I've taken the metter up with the immigration department at Tok Junction and it seems that nothing much can be done to remedy the situation, on account of the distance involved, which in order to correct this situation, the customs and immigration office should be established here on the border. I and other competitors in the area always use American labor when needed and I don't think it fair that one competitor can get by while the rest of us do not. I know there is more than enough unemployed Americans in Fairbanks and Anchorage who can fill the necessary jobs in my and other establishments. The only way I can see to protect our own unemployed is by having an immigration office here where it should be and a condition as this can be rectified immediately. Also I hear daily complaints from the American tourists when they find out that they have to travel a long distance before checking in again. From the economic standpoint in this area, we operators lose a goodly share of business because of the fact that the Canadian and American customs offices are so far apart. It seems that the majority of the travelers wish to get through one customs and then the other as soon as possible, which means traffic does not stop as much as it would otherwise. If there were a customs and immigration office here at the border, the traveling public would then stop in the area thus bolstering the economy in this area, and improve conditions in the area considerably. If I had known in time I am certain you would have sent one of your party down this way and get a firsthand picture of the situation. Also if you and your committee should send someone to investigate this situation, have your representative stop at each place and have himself made known and I am sure he would get some valuable information. In the past all the former persons sent out to look into the situation just went through and when we found out, the party was already in Fairbanks. I don't know how anyone could get any information by just passing through. I trust that you will give this matter of establishing a customs and immigration office here at the Alaska-Yukon border your full attention and see what can be done in the earliest future possible. Very respectfully yours, MATT J. GRAHEK, Proprietor. (Whereupon, the subcommittee adjourned at 12:50 p. m., to reconvene at the call of the Chair.) ALASKA, 1955 SATURDAY, SEPTEMBER 17, 1955 HOUSE OF REPRESENTATIVES, SUBCOMMITTEE ON TERRITORIES AND INSULAR AFFAIRS The Subcommittee on Territories and Insular Affairs met at 2 p. m., pursuant to call, in the Barrow Theater, with members of the Barrow Native Council and other residents of the Barrow community. Congressman Leo W. O'Brien, New York, presided. Members of Congress present included Hon. Edith Green of Oregon, Hon. William A. Dawson of Utah, Hon. James B. Utt of California, and Delegate E. L. Bartlett of Alaska. Also present were Mr. George W. Abbott, committee counsel, Mr. S. L. McFarland, engineering consultant, and Mr. J. L. Taylor, Territories consultant; Dr. John C. Reed, program director, United States Geologic Survey, Mr. Max Penrod, Alaska Native Service, and Col. M. A. Libby, United States Air Force. (A statement on Barrow, Alaska, prepared by the Library of Congress, was inserted in the record at this point by Chairman O'Brien.) THE NATIVE VILLAGE OF BARROW, ALASKA The native village of Barrow is located on the northernmost tip of the Territory of Alaska in 71° 21 minutes north latitude and 156° 17 minutes west longitude. The land around Barrow is a low tundra coastal plain, rising to low mountains about 50 miles back from the coast, the average elevation of the village itself being 23 feet. Soil near the village site consists of a glacial moraine. The Department of Agriculture Yearbook for 1941 gives the following information concerning the climate: Average annual precipitation is 4.34 inches, distributed as follows: There is a seasonal darkness for approximately 6 weeks in the winter and a period of perpetual sun in the summer for the same period. During an average year the village can expect approximately 136 clear days, 49 partly cloudy and 180 cloudy days, with an average snowfall of 10.8 inches each year. The history of Barrow Village is very vague although it is known that a native Eskimo village was in existence on this site 50 years ago, when whaling boats frequented the area. Barrow was organized under the Indian Reorganization Act during March of 1940 with a charter, constitution, and bylaws. Under the terms of the Reorganization Act the village has a council, although the tribe owns no land, nor does it operate any enterprises as a tribe. The natives are under the jurisdiction of a United States commissioner located in Barrow. Although the tribe does not own any land, they do have possessory rights; individuals and family groups have fishing and hunting camps and trapping areas which are recognized by the village group. Land areas are reserved at Barrow for the school, hospital, Alaska communications system, Weather Bureau, Department of the Army, and the Department of the Navy. One tract is patented; all other land is in the public domain. Education of the native people is a responsibility of the Department of the Interior, and at the present time Barrow has a school with a principal, 9 teachers, and 8 classrooms (grades 1 through 8). For the school year 1955-56 total enrollment is 308. Point Barrow has its own hospital run by the United States Public Health Service with a staff of 1 doctor and 5 nurses. In Barrow there are a communications office run by the Department of the Army, a Weather Bureau station, post office, and a unit of the Alaska National Guard. Wien Alaska Airline supplies transportation twice a week for passengers and mail service and three times a week for freight between Barrow and Fairbanks. During the summer daily schedules are maintained for tourists. Minor crimes are handled by the village council, all others are prosecuted under the Territorial laws. The tribe does not have a law and order code. It does not keep vital statistics but, the Vital Statistics Division of the Territorial Health Department does keep such statistics for this area. All businesses at Point Barrow are owned and operated by resident natives except the Meade River Coal Co., which employs all native help. Among the enterprises owned by the natives are a stock company general store, a bakery, restaurant, hotel, motion-picture theater, and lighterage. Four other stores and one restaurant in the village are operated by individual natives. Reindeer herds were dispersed during the years the Arctic contractors were prospecting the oil in the area. At that time there was plenty of work and high wages making it difficult to get good herders. Along with the demand for meat, the lack of herders led to heavy butchering and neglect of the herds, the year 1952 brought about the last of the reindeer herds. In 1955 the total population of the settlement at the village was given as 1,142 compared to 951 in 1950 and 363 in 1939. Individuals and organizations pay all taxes applicable to their business operations, but, of course, do not pay taxes on land, since they own none. The men of the village are employed on military projects, handling freight shipped into the village, and at the school and hospital. Hunting, fishing and trapping provide additional income as does the making of whalebone baskets and the carving of ivory. Income for the year 1954 totaled $336,000, of which $8,500 of this was derived from arts and crafts sales. Approximately $41,000 of this income came from social security and welfare agencies. Average annual cash income per family was $2,062 in addition to native foods caught and used that were valued at $435, the total adjusted gross annual income being $2,497. Property owned by the natives is valued at approximately $350,000; the average family owning property valued at $2,146. This does not include the native owned store valued at approximately $200,000 or the four individually owned stores, valued at approximately $100,000. During the year 1944 due to the crucial war situation the Navy decided to operate some oil wells near Barrow. This land had been set aside as a naval oil reserve in 1923 and comprised some 37,000 square miles of land. A base for operations was built 4 miles east of Barrow and Eskimos began coming in to find jobs. In 9 years the project cost $50 million, and although the oil production was needed during the war years, neither oil field warranted commercial development. During the peak of operations, approximately 125 Eskimo men were employed at an average salary of $140 per week. Most native's built new homes, bought new furnishing and all stateside clothes. The manager of the native store stated that in 1953 the average family spent $300 per month for food in his store. Since the oil fields were closed down one of the outstanding problems is the new homes that most of the Barrow Eskimos have. These new homes, being of conventional construction are difficult to heat. The average house has three or four rooms, although some have as many as eight. Most of the houses must be heated by two stoves, and with oil at $30 a drum and most stoves buring 5 gallons a day, it costs about $90 a month per stove. Coal in that area sells for about $42 a ton and it takes approximately 11⁄2 tons a month to heat the average house. Electricity to the homes is supplied with a 30-kilowatt a. c. diesel generator and the average family with two or three light bulbs and a few appliances pays a flat rate of $25 a month. Sources: United States, 82d Congress, 2d session. House. Report with respect to the House resolution authorizing the Committee on Interior and Insular Affairs to conduct an investigation of the Bureau of Indian Affairs (pursuant to H. Res. 698, 82d Cong.). House Report No. 2503. Union Calendar No. 790. 1592 pages. Carrighar, Sally. The Party Is Over for the Eskimos. In Saturday Evening Post, February 20, 1954. Manuscript report from the Alaska Native Service in response to questionnaire addressed to them by the House Committee on Interior and Insular Affairs, May 15, 1953. Correspondence with Mr. Charles R. Mountjoy, Acting Area Director, Alaska Native Service, Juneau, Alaska dated January 10, 1956. [Stephen A. Langone, History and General Research Division, January 19, 1956.] Chairman O'Brien turned the meeting over to Mr. Fred Ipalook, Secretary of the Native Council. Mr. Johnny Nusunginya, member of the council, assisted Mr. Ipalook. The other five members of the council were working and unable to attend. Mr. Ipalook listed housing needs, the use of natural gas and a generator for Barrow, and educational needs as the three major items on the hearing agenda. Mr. Ipalook went into detail as to the need for better housing and the high cost of getting material laid down here at Barrow. He gave figures and an example where a young man who had $3,000 to put into a house was unable to have one because the material alone laid down here cost around $5,000. He asked that the subcommittee consider the need of having another shipload of material brought here at Seattle price for houses for the Barrow people. He emphasized the fact that the situation was critical. He pointed out that in 1949 there were only eight or nine hundred; now there are 1,200 persons in Barrow. When questioned how many new homes were needed he thought from 12 to 20. Discussion arose about the use of the natural gas and an electric plant for Barrow. As this was an open meeting others were called upon to speak and Reverend Wartes, of the Presbyterian Church, was the first speaker. He gave the figures allowed him for oil and gas in his annual budget which came to $7,000. He stated he could see no reason why we could not use the gas from the producing wells 71⁄2 miles distant. The wells are presently capped. He gave many reasons why we should be allowed it and said it would be a blessing to the whole community. It was brought out that Mr. Wade, onetime area director for the Alaska Native Service, was opposed to any project whereby the native people could use the gas. Apparently Mr. Tom Brower knew something about the situation and said he had proposed a turbine generator set to be erected at the well but that Mr. Wade was opposed to having the community use the Delegate Bob Bartlett was quite surprised to learn that Mr. Wade was opposed to this project or the native people using the gas. Mr. Brower said it would be a blessing to the whole community if the natural gas could be used for a turbine generator set for lights with the generator at the well head-bringing the lines into Barrow. The question arose whether there was enough gas. Dr. John C. Reed, representing the United States Geological Survey, was called upon and he announced that the supply was unlimited. He further went on to say that they had just drilled another well out at the base and that the source of supply was unlimited and could very well be used. Mr. O'Brien asked if any plans had been made for such a project and it was agreed that all the facts and details should be put into a record and presented to the committee in Washington. Mr. Abbott asked how much we were now paying for diesel oil to operate the small plants now in operation. The subcommittee questioned Mr. Suvlu and he quoted them a price of 60 cents a gallon. Mr. Abbott repeated in a loud tone, "60 cents a gallon! And gas within a few miles?" Mr. Suvlu went on to say that with gas you can do most anything in the way of operating machinery and so forth, and at 60 cents a gallon for oil someone had surely been making some money along the way. Mr. O'Brien also asked the price of coal; $2.20 per hundred was quoted. Voices from the audience confirmed the fact that we were paying over $40 per ton for coal. The need for a high school was brought up for discussion. Johnny Nusunginya spoke on the need for better education and the need in Barrow for a high school. He pointed out the growth of the community and the overcrowded school. The question was asked how many would attend a high school. It was answered by the statement that this year from Barrow alone 8 or 10 had left for Mount Edgecombe School in Sitka. Forrest Solomon, manager of Wien Alaska Airlines Office, announced that from the surrounding villages there were at least 32 youngsters who had gone through Barrow on their way to high school. This figure was based on the sale of tickets. Mr. Penrod spoke on the great difficulty in setting up a high school in Barrow the vocational classes to be established and the additional teachers needed as well as the housing problem. Reverend Wartes spoke of the great need for a high school here and pointed up that the percentage to go to school would naturally increase and that he felt it was desperately needed. Mr. Penrod asked if an acceptable compromise could be a junior high school. Reverend Wartes recognized that it would be the next step to having a high school. Mr. Penrod stated they were increasing next year's budget to accommodate the expansion of the Barrow School as well as the building of a staff house. Father Cunningham spoke on the need for a high school and said he was not in favor of a junior high. "Why not go all the way"? Father Cunningham backed Reverend Wartes 100 percent. He said he had worked among the Eskimo people for more than 20 years and they have a good intellect. He emphasized that the need for a high school in Barrow was very great. He brought out many statistics about the Eskimo children stating that by going away from home they forget how to live in this country-to hunt and so forth, and he felt the need was for a school here and not to send the children out. They asked Father Cunningham if he worked closely with the ANS. He said, "Yes, and I have found them very cooperative." Johnny Nusunginya spoke of the need for better roads in Barrow. He said, "We pay taxes but get no returns. Perhaps the Alaska Road Commission could help us.' Father Cunningham said that Puget Sound & Drake Dredging Co. would help to gravel the roads. All we had to do was to ask for it. The matter for piping to bring water into Barrow was discussed. It was agreed that all we had to do was go after it. Mr. Penrod was |