Art. IV. COMMERCIAL CITIES AND TOWNS OF THE UNITED STATES. NUMBER XXVIII. KEY WEST, FLORIDA. THIS position, recently become so important as the Key of the United States to the Florida Pass, and the Gulf of Mexico, is little known to the outer world, except as a wrecking station; and is consequently and unjustly associated only with scenes of disaster, distress, and quasi piracy. The object of the present paper, is to remove these false impressions, by a brief outline of the history of the island, and a summary sketch of its present character and condition. Cayo Yuesson, or Bone Key, was so called from the great masses of human bones which were found upon it, on the discovery of the Island by the Spaniards. The time of the discovery is not exactly known, not having been made a matter of distinct record. It was probably somewhat early in the history of Florida. The accumulation on such a spot of such a quantity of human relics as to give a name to the Island, has not been sufficiently accounted for. Whether, in the remote ages of aboriginal history, it was an isolated and over populous island city, a half-way mart between Cubs and the continent-a Palmyra in the desert of waters, where the canoe caravans of our unknown predecessors, met for refreshment, or barter ;—or whether, as remote from either shore, it was selected as the common cemetery of the nations both of the islands and of the main land, it is fruitless to conjecture. The tradition, among the modern Indians, is, that the tribes of the main land, in conflict with those of the Reef, drove them, by a series of conquests, from island to island, and rock and rock, till they reached this, their last and most important hold. Here they made a desperate stand, congregating all their hosts, men, women and children, from all their deserted and desolated isles. A terrible battle ensued. The islanders were overpowered, and utterly exterminated. Large numbers of the invaders also fell in the conflict. Many more fell victims to a pestilence, occasioned by the sudden putrefaction of so many unburied corpses, while the few that escaped were compelled to flee for their lives, leaving the bones of friends and foes to bleach together on the deserted and sunburnt rock. There may be some foundation for this story. Indeed it is difficult to account for the facts in any other way than by supposing the island to have been suddenly desolated by war, or pestilence, or both united. It was evidently, for a considerable time, the residence of an important tribe of Indians. They have left behind them the traces of their presence, and evidences of their progress in some of the arts. Several mounds have been opened, which were found to be filled with bones. The figures were all arranged in a sitting posture, and decked with ornaments of gold and silver. Glass beads were also found among them, showing that some of the burials were of comparatively recent origin. The English name, Key West, is a corruption of Cayo Yuesson. The name is not appropriate to the place. It is not the western termination of the Reef. There are several small islands in that direction, with Tortugas, the last and largest of them all, about sixty miles distant. The Island of Key West is four miles long, by one mile in the widest part. The average width is considerably less than a mile. The entire area is 197 acres, including the salt pond. It is of coral formation, with very little available soil. It is very low and flat, the highest spot on the island being scarcely more than twenty feet above the level of the sea. It is situated in latitude 24° 25' N. and longitude 82° 4' W. The unoccupied parts of the island are covered with a low stunted growth of wood peculiar to that region. Dogwood, Maderia wood, mangrove, and some other species, are found in considerable abundance, and turned to some account, as timber, for various purposes. The Maderia wood is particularly valuable, when found of sufficient size, being hard and durable, and capable of resisting the ravages of the worms. The prickly pear and the geranium, grow wild, in such luxuriance as the scantiness of the soil will admit. The The cocoa nut, the orange and the quava, also thrive well in any spot where there is depth of earth to sustain them. This, however, is so rare and so thin, that a garden is the most expensive luxury in the place, and one can easily imagine, that, like Naaman the Syrian, a resident there, visiting some of the rich valleys of our land, might reject more costly offerings, and ask, as the greater boon, for "two mules' burden of earth." Cayo Yuesson was granted by the Spanish Crown, some thirty or forty years ago, to John P. Salas. From him it was purchased, in Dec. 1821, by Col. Simonton, who now resides there. He took possession, in person, on the 22d January, 1822, and erected a small house, the first that was built on the island, in April following. One year after, in April 1823, a Custom House was established there, by the United States Government, and it was made a station for the squadron commissioned for the suppression of piracy in the Gulf of Mexico. The squadron arrived in April, and rendered very important services, in accomplishing the object for which it was sent. In 1827, the season proved a very sickly one. Fever and dysentery prevailed to an alarming extent, and the station was removed in November of that It is difficult to account for the sickliness of that season. There has been nothing like it since. It is regarded, by those who have tried it, as one of the healthiest places in the world. year. In 1832, Key West was made a military station, a very pleasant spot was selected for barracks, which were not completed till 1845. The buildings are large, airy, and commodious, and furnished with all the conveniences which the place and the climate afford. They are placed on three sides of a large quadrangle, the open side being toward the sea. If nature had furnished soil enough for a respectable growth of shade trees, or even for the cocoa nut and orange, her liberality would doubtless be often blessed, both by officers and soldiers, particularly during the intense heat of the summer months. The first white female that settled on the island, was Mrs. Mallory, the worthy mother of the present worthy United States Senator from Florida. She took up her abode there in the year 1823, and was, for some considerable time, without a single companion of her own sex. As the pioneer matron of the place, she was presented with a choice lot of land, on which she has erected a house, which she now occupies, as a boarding house, dispensing to the stranger, with liberal hand, and at a moderate price, the hospitalities of the place. The first white child born on the island was John Halleck, who was born in August, 1829. He is now a printer in the City of Washington. The second was William Pinckney, born Sept. 1829. He is a clerk in one of the largest mercantile houses in Key West. They are both promising young men, of good abilities and excellent character. From these small and recent beginnings, Key West has grown to be an important and a prosperous place. From the solitary house, erected by Col. Simonton in 1823, has sprung a flourishing and well ordered city of about 3000 inhabitants. It is now the largest town in Florida. The City is well laid out, with streets fifty feet wide, at right angles to each other, and is under a judicious and efficient administration. There is not a more quiet, orderly town in the United States. Alexander Patterson, Esq. is its present Mayor. The city contains, at this time, (1851,) 650 houses, 26 stores, 10 warehouses, 4 look-out cupolas, 11 wharves, and 4 churches. The churches are Episcopal, Methodist, Baptist, and Roman Catholic. The buildings are small, but very neat. They will accommodate from 150 to 250 worshipers. There is a Sabbath School attached to each. The services of the Sabbath are well attended. The Episcopal church numbers fifty communicants, and seventy Sabbath scholars. About five hundred persons attached to the congregation. The Methodist Church numbers 100 communicants and 115 scholars. Congregation 700. The Baptist 82 communicants and 22 scholars. Congregation 300. There are four private schools in the city, and one county school. The private schools average about thirty scholars each. The county school has an average attendance of about sixty scholars. This is far below what it should be, showing a want of a just appreciation of the inestimable benefits of education. Perhaps, however, we ought in justice to observe that the occupations of a considerable portion of the inhabitants are of such a nature as to keep them much away from home. The boys, as soon as they are able to work, are occupied with fishing, sponging, and other similar employments, and soon denied the advantages of a regular school. The county school is not, like our public schools at the north, open to all. It is free only to fatherless children. This provision is a singular and an unfortunate one. Though the orphan has a rich mother, he is admitted to the school without charge; while the motherless child of an indigent father must pay one dollar a month tuition. This rule seems to reverse the natural order of things. A motherless child is much more likely to be neglected, in his education and morals, at the forming period of life, than a fatherless one. There are but 17 county scholars in this school. If it were thrown open to all who need its advantages, it would probably number 150 to 200, and would be a source of blessing to the rising generation, which cannot be estimated in dollars. The tonnage of Key West is not very considerable, but it is very active and profitable. It consists of 27 wreckers, averaging 57 tons..... 8 coasters and fishermen, averaging 90 tons... Total tonnage..... 1,539 720 2,259 The Harbor is capacious, safe, and easy of access. It may be entered by several different channels, the principal one being at the N. W. angle of the island. Ships of 22 feet draft can enter there with safety. The principal business of Key West is derived from the salvages, commissions, and other perquisites of wrecking. This is a business peculiar to the reefs, and demands a particular elucidation. It is not, as many suppose, and as it was, to some extent, before it was regulated by law and well administered by the courts, a species of relentless piracy. It is a legitimate business, conducted under established and equitable rules, and for the mutual benefit of the wrecker, the wrecked, and the underwriter. The persons engaged in it are men of character, standing, and wealth; men of generous sentiments, and kindly feelings, who risk much and work hard for what they get, and who throw into their calling as much of regard for the rights, interests and property of the sufferers whom they relieve, as is exhibited in any other department of mercantile business. That there are occasional exceptions to this general rule, cannot be denied. A single instance, of recent occurrence, will serve to show that wreckers are not always pirates, nor always chargeable with heartless rapacity, in the pursuit of the hardy profession. A vessel, with a few passengers, having struck upon the reef, made the usual signals of distress, and waited for help. Impatient of delay, and fearing the ship would go to pieces before relief came, the passengers and some of the crew took to the boat, with a view to finding a safe place of landing. When the wrecker came down, the captain was informed of this fact. He immediately left the vessel, and went in search of the wanderers among the intricate passes of the keys. Another wrecker came down, and pursued the same course, showing more anxiety to save life, than to secure the advantages of an attempt to save the vessel and cargo. A third came down, and, feeling that the deserters were sufficiently cared for, went to work, to rescue the vessel, and remove the cargo. So much was this act of heroic benevolence appreciated, that, when the award of salvage was made up, those who first arrived at the wreck, and left it in search of the passengers and crew, received the same share as they would have done if they had proceeded, in the usual way, to discharge the wreck and get her off; while their comrades, who came last to the spot, received only the share which would appropriately belong to the third in the race. The rule in this respect is, that he who first boards the wreck has undisputed control of her, till she is delivered into the hands of the court. He determines who, if any, shall aid him in the rescue, and in what order they shall come in for their shares. He also decides to whom the wrecked vessel shall be consigned, unless the master of the wreck has a choice in the case. The whole matter is then left for the adjudication of the court. The amount of salvage is there determined, each party engaged in the rescue receiving his share of the award, according to the previous arrangements of the skipper who first boarded the wreck. The amount of the award averages about one-tenth of the value of the property saved. Commissions, expenses, &c. swell this to about one-sixth. The average amount of wrecked property brought into Key West, is not far from 1,200,000 dollars per annum, of which there is left behind, for the benefit of the place, about $200,000. This, being divided among the captain, crew, and owners of the wreckers, commission merchants, lawyers, auctioneers, wharf-owners, ship-wrights, carpenters, and store-keepers, is pretty widely diffused, and goes into general circulation. It is the principal reliance of all the business men, mechanics, and laborers of the place. There is a large amount of auction business done here, employing twelve auctioneers, and paying more auction duties than all the residue of the State. It is established by law, that everything saved from wrecks shall be sold at auction. The following reports prepared by Capt. Hoyt, the intelligent and vigilant agent of the underwriters, at Key West, will show, in brief, the results of the wrecking business, for the last two years: KEY WEST, January 1st, 1850 The past year in this latitude has been favorable for shipping, there having been but few severe storms and no hurricane. Notwithstanding this, forty-six vessels have been ashore on the reef or compelled to put into this port. The value of vessels and cargoes wrecked and in distress is nearly.... Total salvage and expenses on the 46 vessels.... $1,305,000 127,870 219,160 With but one or two exceptions, the wrecking business for the past year has been conducted with good faith, and it affords me great pleasure to inform you that arrangements have been made and entered into by the merchants during the past month to remove one of the most prolific sources of demoralization connected with it. 1845.... 1846... 1847... 1848... 1849... STATISTICS FOR THE FIVE YEARS ENDING JANUARY 1ST, 1850. The last three years show a gradual annual increase, but it is not probably greater than the proportional increase of Commerce within the same period. The number of vessels engaged in the wrecking business does not vary much from my last report. Various causes are now in operation, which must lead to the diminution of the wrecking business. When the coast survey and the thorough lighting of the Florida Reef, both of which are now progressing, shall be completed, the two prominent causes of wrecks will be removed. The Tortugas light has been much improved, but it still needs alterations, which ought to be promptly made. When the light on Gordon Key bears N. E. by E. to E., a large part of the power of the light is lost by a narrow door, and the want of more lamps and reflectors. Several shipmasters, that have struck on the reef when the light bore about E. N. E., judged the light to be ten miles off. The three light-ships on this coast are faithfully kept, but the power of their lights is by no means what it ought to be. The light ship stationed near Sand Key is old, and the light they attempt to show is miserable. Several vessels have been lost, and much valuable cargo, by the neglect of Government to build a light-house on Sand Key, to replace the one destroyed by the hurricane of 1846. The lights of Cape Florida and Key West are both very good. The materials are on the spot, and the operatives at work erecting the iron pile lighthouse on Carysfort Reef. It is to be placed on the extreme outer edge of the reef, within one quarter of a mile of the Gulf stream; is to be fitted with a powerful light 127 feet high, and can be seen 25 miles from the mast head of a ship. I deem it my duty to call your attention to a common neglect of shipmasters to provide themselves with proper charts of this coast. The Messrs. Blunt have published a good one on a large scale. I seldom find on board vessels wrecked on this coast suitable boats to take out anchors in case of accident. Key West is naturally a position of no inconsiderable importance. It is a strong and valuable position for a naval station; strong because the Government is now erecting an extensive fort in 10 feet water, which will entirely command the harbor; and valuable, as it is the only fort from Pensacola to Hampton Roads, where a ship of war drawing 22 feet water, would make a harbor and be protected in time of war. It is not only a safe commodious harbor, but it has also several channels by which it may be entered. The population of the island has considerably increased within the past year. It cannot now be much short of 2,500. It depends entirely upon wrecking, fishing, and the manufacturing of salt, for its support. It has two schools, and Episcopal, Roman Catholic, Methodist and Baptist congregations and churches, |