SUBURBAN RESIDENCE NEAR KINGSTON

chorus girls, and pleasure by satiety. And of beautiful scenery he sees little more than can be caught by glimpses through car windows.

Comparatively few are actively aware of the fact that just beyond their own doors, lies what, to those who have spent blissful days, weeks or months there, is an island of the blest; that, to those who have been there, a month in Jamaica is infinitely to be preferred to the same length of time passed on some tourist-swarmed route or in some fashionably-uncomfortable caravanserai. Incredible as it may appear, the average American's knowledge of Jamaica is almost as limited (if that be possible) as that of the American-made type of Englishman's knowledge of the United States. Those who have once stayed in Jamaica for rest, refreshment or recuperation, are like those who

have once drunk of the waters of the Nile-the longing to return is always present. There is on the island an ever-growing colony of Americans-some of whom are reformed globe-trotters-who every winter return to the haven of rest, there to remain as long as possible. Among the many other advantages possessed by Jamaica as a winter resort, not the least is that the hoodlum tourist, whose presence and spoor are as the brand of Cain on so many of the natural beauties of the world-is almost unknown. As a matter of fact, Jamaica possesses little or no attraction for those whose idea of taking a vacation is to "do" everything, or who find more satisfaction at Coney Island and the Moulin Rouge than in the beauties of nature.

Jamaica is an ideal country for spending a vacation, building up after over-exertion, or wintering, especially if the desire is to find something different from one's everyday surroundings. Men who have gone there physical wrecks in January, have returned gay, jaunty and full of vigor in February. Nerves soon learn to resume their normal functions,

STARTING FOR A DRIVE ON BOG WALK

and cease to torture; sleeplessness is something to laugh at. To many it will be a matter of importance that the trip is an economical one.

As is the case everywhere, money can be squandered; but there is no call for extravagant expenditure. Steamers sail from Philadelphia and Boston direct to Port Antonio, on the northern shore of the island-the distances being 1390 and 1600 miles, respectively. The trip takes from four to five days; and this, for those who dread a long sea voyage, is an important advantage over the journey to Europe. When the starting point is Philadelphia, Watling's Island or San Salvador is sighted on the morning of the third day. Then follow Bird Rock, Fortune Island, Castle Island; and, next morning, the eastern coast of Cuba, which is skirted. Then almost the entire length of the northern coast of Jamaica, and finally, Port Antonio, the point of debarkation. Before the voyage

is over, it may be remarked en passant, he who makes the trip to Jamaica has learned much about the Gulf Stream which he never read in books.

STREET SCENE, PORT ANTONIO

If it is one's first view of tropical scenery, the sight of Port Antonio, nestling peacefully on the seashore at the foot of high hills which are covered with luxur

iant vegetation is likely to remain. indelibly impressed on the memory; even the blasé globe-trotter does not remain unmoved by the burst of loveliness. The blaze of bright sunlight; the clear atmosphere; the beautiful setting; the graceful palms-the striking beauty of it all is exhilarating.

Port Antonio is a good place to rest. Perched upon a bluff 300 feet high, overlooking the harbor, is what is by common consent the best hotel in the island-The Titchfield. It is owned by Americans; run by Americans; patronized by Americans, and is American. Some trouble was taken to impress this fact upon the governor of Jamaica, Sir Augustus W. Hemming, who, last January, visited

HOTEL TITCHFIELD, PORT ANTONIO

Port Antonio in his official capacity for the first time. Several members of the permanent American colony were extremely chagrined at the unwillingness of some of their visiting compatriots to show civility to the governor, just because he had the misfortune to be the official representative of an effete monarchy. Some of the loudest protestors against sycophantic civility later distinguished themselves, after having been presented. by doing as the Romans did-only more so. Still the fact remains that no "gent" or other ill-bred person, no matter what his nationality, is bound to be civil to anybody. And surely if an ordinary (not) to say common) American citizen at home may with impunity run down the

President of the United States, and then be studiedly impertinent to him, a traveling American may be allowed to rise in wrath at the thought of being polite to a British Governor. To show our contempt for all ideas which are foreign to us, and for all foreigners (especially in their own country) is the most effective way of demonstrating our own superiority, and at the same time of earning the ill-concealed respect of our inferiors. Of course such conduct makes educated Americans uncomfortable, but it impresses them duly-and they don't run the country, anyhow.

But to resume: In the streets and stores of Port Antonio are many things curious which attract the attention. Rides and drives may be taken along the seashore or inland: there is sea-bathing, as safe as it is excellent-the bathers being protected seaward by a coral reef over which the surf dashes majestically; while on the land-side tower the verdureclad hills. Among the natives and East Indian coolies are many uncommon types.

One who likes to investigate and learn. can spend an hour or two profitably in the court-house of Port Antonio. The magistrate is white; the rest of the officials are more or less colored. One day in January the calendar contained some twenty cases of more than ordinary variety. Some of the defendants were

PARK LODGE ENTRANCE, KINGSTON

charged with brawling and disturbing the peace. Considering the fact that the poorer of the natives see so little money, an observer could not fail to be impressed by the severity of penalties when they were fines.

On the following day some youthful culprits were flogged in the prison yard. The punishment, while

not brutal, was severe. The onlookers, who were afterwards questioned, without exception expressed their approval of the system and its results, saying that it held in check those youthful ne'er-do-wells who had no fear of prison.

The glories of sunrise and sunset in Port Antonio are a temptation to everyone who has an eye for color to remain; but if it is desired to make the return trip within a month and to see something of the island, it is well to cross to Kingston. The best way to make this trip is to have one's baggage sent to Kingston, but to go by train only as far as Bog Walk station a distance of forty-six miles. The trip is one that lives in the memory. In the

forty-six miles the train passes through over thirty tunnels, where the atmosphere and temperature are suggestive of the hot hereafter; but one is left with the satisfactory knowledge of having seen the Blue Mountains, inside and outside. The torture of the tunnels takes the edge off one's enjoyment of the exquisite scenery. But on reaching Bog Walk station, where a carriage, previously arranged for, is waiting, the drive along Bog Walkthrough which flows the Rio Cobre-is begun, and the indescribable beauty and variety of the scenery soon efface the unpleasantness of the train trip. The ride to Spanish Town is only nine miles, but long before one drives up to the Rio Cobre Hotel (where everybody who does drive, drives) one's stock of adjectives of admiration and rapture has been exhausted. In fact, any visitor to Jamaica who is desirous of giving his impressions of the beauty of the scenery will soon find that his adjectives are all worn threadbare, and that what he most needs is an enlarged vocabulary. While riding in the Blue Mountains, one of our party, when called upon

MARKETING-KINGSTON