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FROM

Polite Literature, etc.

DECEMBER, 1855.

OUR FRENCH CORRESPONDENT. BOULEVARD DES ITALIENS. November 27th, 1855.

CHERE AMIE,

THE moires antique will be very fashionable this winter, of light colours; some with stripes of the same, or of a contrasting colour; they are very elegant with a single deep flounce in large flutes. Brocatelles are also greatly admired, with bands of velvet in black or marron; they are brocaded of the same colour as the velvet stripe. In more simple style are the popelines in stripes or checks, in which black is always intermixed. Many plain ones, as well as alpagas, will be worn; the latter material is particularly suited for children's

wear.

A very rich and handsome toilette was of moire antique, of a shade between lilac and violet; there were four flounces on the skirt, edged by a wide velvet shaded the colour of the dress, and at the edge of the velvet a black lace vandyked falling on the under flounce, and a similar one on the top flounce; a basquine of velvet, trimmed with lace, completed this elegant toilette.

Dresses of droguet in sombre colours are spotted with another colour; these dresses have basquines, edged with a deep frill, on which a narrow black lace is fulled. Black taffetas is as much in favour as ever-five flounces not unfrequently ornament robes of this material; a band of coloured velvet often edges the flounces; the under sleeves are composed of bouillons of black tulle, trimmed with lace. The mixture of gray and violet do not appear to harmonize very well; they are, however, rather used on the new materials this season. Pearl gray moiré, with stripes in violet of satin or velvet, and robes of gray droguet with small spots of violet is a style much in use for demitoilette in every colour -black spotted with yellow, green with pink, marron with pale blue. The flounces of these dresses are edged by a wide velvet, the colour of the spots placed à cheval (bound over the edge); they are often accompanied by a basquine of velvet the same colour as that which edges the flounces. A dress of black taffetas with five flounces, each bordered à cheval, with green velvet of five shades, the darkest being on the lowest

VOL. 28.

flounce, and above the velvet a row of acorns falling midway on the velvet, the basquine of the darkest shade of green velvet; the basques very deep, and ornamented similarly to the flounces, with acorn tassels; as also the sleeves, collar, and under-sleeves of black lace; on the wristband, and also round the throat of the collar, were ruches of white tulle.

Jackets or basquines are made of cloth as well as of velvet, and ornamented by braid galons or fringe, forming the deminegligés, and suitable for young persons. They are pretty in gray cloth, braided with black and gray in Arabic designs, the sleeves rather tight, with mousquetaire cuff. Great variety is observable in the trimmings of velvet on taffetas or moire. We have seen bands of velvet placed perpendicularly all round a skirt, resembling a richly striped dress. They sometimes widen towards the bottom, others are confined on each side by narrow fringe, gimp, &c. In evening toilettes these bands will be replaced by ribbon and wreaths of flowers. Dresses of tulle have been made, on which bouillons of tulle were placed perpendicularlly all round the skirt, having a pink or blue ribbon through each bouillon, terminating with bow and ends, which fall on the under skirt; as this style is always with double skirt, the trimming being confined to the upper one, which does not reach below the knee.

Contrary to all expectation there is a return to the tight Amadis sleeve, very appropriate at this season; but though close in form they are ornamented with much taste, having several bouillons at the bend of the arm, and bands of velvet galons. These sleeves will be very convenient under the manteaux and pelisses trimmed with fur; those formed in plaits, a model of which we now give, will be warm and pretty for morning dresses. We refer to it for description. Many of the sleeves are rather voluminous.

Children's dresses have not undergone much change this season. From five to eight years they wear little pardessus of cloth or velvet of dark colour; they are by no means tight, and extend to the knee. Velvets are made without ornament at the bottom, but have three or four brandenbourgs of silk; but those of cloth are much trimmed with gimps. The material termed flannelle is much used for little girls. In gray it forms very pretty little paletots, braided all round with very narrow black velvet; the bottom of the sleeves and little pelerine also ornamented with narrow black velvet.

Various materials are used for manteaux. The richer ones are of velvet, stamped or embroidered; but there are also velvet cloth, beaver cloth, Thibet velvet, and a long list of

names might be added for the more useful kinds of outdoor costumes. The newest cloaks are with large sleeves; they are mostly bound or edged all round by a galon of the same colour or velvet. Gray and mole colour are the favourite shades.

Tight close pardessus, as the ladies' paletots, appear likely to contest favour with the manteaux and winter mantelets: they mark the waist, but fall in flutes toward the bottom, with rather wide sleeves; the fronts cross over to the side and close with a row of buttons. These paletots are made of cloth, with revers of velvet; two small pockets with pattes are placed on each side the ceinture, and small round collar. They do not reach below the knee. For negligé morning wear these are made of coloured flannels, and edged by a band of moire of contrasting colour, or galon of velvet plush. Warm comfortable cloaks are made of beaver, cloth, and other soft thick materials that do not require lining; but are bound round the edge by velvet galons, and have hoods lined with silk; fasten in front with short bands or tabs and buttons. Others are smaller, of the Talma form.

Furs promise to be very fashionable this season. Deep borders of sable or marten are placed round the pardessus of black marron or scabious coloured velvets, or in two rows, narrower on Talmas and small mantelets. Muffs will be worn small, the ends closing with nœuds of rather wide ribbon and floating ends.

Dentelles d'or (gold blond lace) will be much used this winter for head dresses, enlivened in the torsades of ponceau or green velvet, with wide lappet falling on one side, and confined on the other by small plumes of feathers. It will also be used for Mary Stuart caps, forming the crown and falling over rosebuds or small bunches of fuchsia, which, after forming a coronet on the head, a little pointed on the forehead, intermix at the sides with large coques of velvet. In dress hats the Pamela form is revived.

Bonnets of velvet are worn of the same colour as the dress. Choux, composed of lappets of black lace, are much used to ornament them. Many black velvet bonnets have the fronts edged by a band of white satin. These are ornamented by velvet flowers, with foliage of crape, or with feathers.

Capotes will be worn this winter. Many are being made by one of the first Parisian houses, both of velvet and satin as well as lace, with ornaments of velvet and foliage of crape. Velvet bonnets, either black, blue, or marron, are much in demand for walking costume. These ornaments vary; some are covered by resilles of gimp and bugles. Some bonnets have a biasis of velvet lined with white taffetas, which, curling round the crown, falls on the touffes of feathers. Ornaments of coral are very pretty on black velvet bonnets; light sprays of coral placed under the front near the edge blend with the black feathers, which ornament it.

Capotes of satin, green, blue, or violet, intermixed with ornaments of black velvet and lace, are very pretty. The flowers that are used are generally the colour of the satin; but sometimes they are replaced by noeuds, mixed with lace, falling on the bavolet and front. Others have several rows of black lace crossing the crown under biais of velvet.

Capotes of green or blue Gros de Naples mixed with lace and velvet form pretty capotes of this kind: others of violet taffetas have biais of black velvet crossing the front and edging the bavolet, which is very large: on this kind of bavolet a black lace always falls over. Terry velvet bonnets are made in écru, dove, and beaver colours, and frequently ornamented by two smaller feathers of the same, placed on each side and united; a rouleau between them of satin of the same colour, round which waves a black lace. Quilted satin bonnets are seen with veil attached to the edge, and ruches. Ruby or marron velvets, with black lace, are very fashionable; the bavolets or curtains are worn very deep and full. A bonnet of ruby velvet was ornamented by a black aigrette of a new style; the front of the bonnet being nearly covered by black lace, which was a little raised near the front by the aigrette on one side, and nœud of velvet on the other. An

other had the crown arranged so as to form a kind of frill on the front, in each fold of which was a rose. Violet is also a colour much in request for bonnets this winter.

DESCRIPTION OF THE ENGRAVINGS.
PLATE I.

Walking Dress.-Robe of droguet, with flounces, ornamented by bands of moire. Pardessus of velvet, trimmed with bands of stamped velvet and rich fringe. Bonnet of ruby velvet with feathers.

Little Girl's Dress.-Robe of pink taffetas, ornamented by ruches of ribbon, bretelles of ribbon and lace guipure, and sleeves of muslin.

Walking Dress.-Robe of popeline and manteau of velvet cloth, ornamented by bands of velvet and tassels. Bonnet of Terry velvet and satin.

Dinner Dress.-Robe of taffetas, with triple skirts, the two upper ones trimmed with fringe, and terminating at the front breadth with nœuds and long ends; high body, with pelerine revers trimmed with fringe; double sleeves, finished with fringe and looped up by noeuds of ribbon; collar of lace, and bouillon sleeves.

Carriage Dress.-Robe of striped moire, with jacket-body. Manteau of ruby velvet, trimmed with fringe. Bonnet of Terry velvet, with rosaces at the side, of lace.

PLATE II.

Morning Dress-Robe of popeline; the corsage is high, fastening down the front with button revers of velvet; the sleeves half long and open, bound with velvet, and under ones of muslin in bouillons; three flounces on the skirt, each with trimmings of green velvet ribbon. two biais of velvet laid on; point lace collar, and cap with

Walking Dress-Robe of moire, with jacket-body. Man teau of gray cloth, trimmed with moire. Bonnet of marron velvet with feathers.

Dinner Dress.-Robe of taffetas, with square body and jacket of ruby velvet; the skirt ornamented by trimming of a dice form, encircled by narrow velvet and tassel in each. Head dress of velvet and flowers.

Promenade Dress.-Robe of droguet, and manteau of cloth, trimmed with galons. Bonnet of green velvet and lace.

Carriage Dress.-Robe of broché silk and velvet; the body is high, with pelerine trimmed with lace. Small Talma of velvet, with fur collar and band of fur all round. Bonnet of velvet and satin, with voilette of black lace attached to the edge.

PLATE III.

Promenade Dress.-Robe of moire, with high body and pelerine. Mantelet of marron velvet, with very deep fringe laid on above the frills. Capote of taffetas, with ruches.

Carriage Dress.-Robe of taffetas, with basquine; the skirt is covered with flounces trimmed with several rows of very narrow velvet. Mantelet of velvet trimmed with black lace. Bonnet of velvet and lace.

Walking Dress.-Robe of cachemire, and paletot of taf fetas, trimmed with broad bands and sable fur. Bonnet of Terry velvet and satin, with black lace at the edge.

Carriage Dress.-Robe of taffetas, with two deep flounces; high body with pelerine and bouillon sleeves. Manteau of the Talma form, trimmed with fringe and plissés of ribbon. Bonnet of pink Terry velvet and black lace.

Walking Dress.-Robe of popeline, with jacket-body. Mantelet of taffetas, trimmed with stamped velvet and black lace. Bonnet of marron velvet and black face.

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