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LONDON AND PARIS LADIES' MAGAZINE OF FASHION,

Polite Literature, etc.

No. 277.

JANUARY, 1854.

VOL. 27.

FROM

very great, yet we also see a single very deep one, edged and OUR FRENCH CORRESPONDENT.

headed by a galon or velvet, &c., or even by a stamped velvet

forming vandyke edge; and on crape dresses the flounces BOULEVARD DES ITALIENS,

have wreaths in delicate designs of velvet or plush, graduating

as they rise. Gold and silver have also their advocates.

December 27th, 1853. The make of sleeves is very much varied; all kinds are worn; CHEBE AMIE,

puffs or creves are very much used; some sleeves hare two FEATHERS are quite the vogue of the day, and used for every bouffants terminating with a frill, others have jockeys of style of trimming, whether for bonnets or dresses, in plumes, velvet, &c.; the most numerous are those made open. Jackets fringe or bands; the rich materials of full dress, the moires are still very fashionable ; some of the dress-makers put a antique, brocarts, rich satins will all be ornamented with seam down the centre of the back, and no side-piece, which is bands of feather trimming. The style of bodies is of the said to improve the set of the back. Watteau form, and bugles are frequently introduced on these Plush is quite the novelty of the season, and is particularly feather bands; the sparkling effect amongst the feathers used on manteaux; not only plain, but often imitating different having a good effect. Both black and white lace are much furs. Plush also forms a pretty style of trimming for the jacket used on dresses, and particularly guipure, which forms so rich bodies, placed in short bands as brandenbourgs on each side the a contrast of itself on any colour.

fronts, and also on the sleeves; they may be made of ribbon, For evening dresses, both satins and velvets are covered plush or plain. On manteaux the plush is generally of a con. with flounces of lace often raised at the sides by bunches of trasting colour, as on black cloth, deep violet &c., but checked flowers, ribbon, or feathers ; they are worn very long, forming plush is even used for waistcoats by ladies. Velvet guipure is small trains, but walking dresses are made less full and a little very much admired for trimming either dresses or manteaux. shorter. Triple skirts are still worn; pretty evening dresses The recent cold weather has caused the pelisses trimmed are made of either black or white tulle, with three skirts over with fur to be in request: they are mostly of velvet; when coloured satins, each terminating with a bouillon; the body thus trimmed marten is the most usually worn, but squirrel and sleeves should be entirely in bouillons. Very pretty ones is not despised, and grebe is very elegant; these pardessus are of coloured tulle, with triple flounces trimmed with ruches are made short, and with very full sleeves; frequently muffs of the same in scollops at the edge.

are made to match the pardessus of velvet or satin trimmed A new style of ornamenting flounces is with short pattes or at the ends with feather bands or fur. bands of ribbon rising up the flounce at intervals, those on The small cloth Talmas still continue in fashion, those of each flounce placed so as to come in the middle of each space; black cloth, being trimmed with bands of coloured plush the body and sleeves correspond as well as the jacket, except which rise up the front and form collar. Many are of black that on the front of the body they form brandenbourgs. velvet, ornamented with black guipure; these are sometimes Another pretty style for flounces is edging them with several with ends in front, giving a little of the mantelet form. Warm rows of narrow black lace, which form ruches, and are also useful cloaks are made of a worsted plush: they are ornaornamented with fancy velvet trimmings, or have a pattern mented with short bands or pattes of velvet up each side, terstamped out in the silk. Black silk dresses with flounces look minatiog with a large button. Others again are made of a very well with a green plush ribbon forming scroll on the double flannel and trimmed with fringe. flounces, the shades of colour varying as it ascends. Many Some of the Talmas are made with sleeves, others hang in morning dresses are made of cloth; the bodies with jacket folds behind the pelisses of cloth trimmed round with bands attached, the form being usually of the redingote style, but of velvet, and the shoulder-piece entirely of velvet are warm, they are also sometimes with very full skirt and body, with and comfortable for morning wear. Marron, or a reddish double jacket in iron gray, trimmed with a broad galon; they light brown, trimmed with black velvet, look very well. Many look very well , a narrow galon edging the jacket, &c.

pelisses are made of black satin, bordered with several rows Though the number of flounces on dresses is sometimes of ribbon, put on full alternately satin and moire.

There is not much variation in the form of bonnets : the pre

PLATE III. vailing ones are of satin and velvet in bouillons or bands, the velvet, black and satin coloured; the trimmings are placed

Carriage Dress.-Robe of broché silk, with open body and very forward on the front, either a flower or næud; some- basques at the waist; manteau of black velvet, with pelerine times the crowns are of velvet and the fronts of other mate- forming sleeves vandyked at the edge, and trimmed with rich rials, but ornamented by velvet foliage, stars, &c.; the crowns fringe. Bonnet of Terry velvet and satin, with flowers. are still of the receding form—and altogether the bonnets Carriage Dress.--Robe redingote of satin, ornamented on this season are of a much lighter description than we have the skirt by crevés, edged with narrow lace; Talma of velvet, hitherto seen in the winter, owing to the great use of blond trimmed with ermine. Bonnet of marron velvet and black and lace, the open edges, &c.; often a pointed broad band of

lace. velvet between the edge and crown seems the only solid part; Walking Dress.—Robe of drogant, with flounces; manteau the colours preferred are marron and currant for general use,

of velvet, ornamented with næuds of ribbon. Capote in and blue for more elegant wear.

bouillons of satin. Children's dresses are such a complete imitation of the pre

Little Girl's Dress.-Frock of striped cachemire and pelisse, vailing fashions for their elders that it would be mere repe- with deep cape of cachemire, richly embroidered. Plush tition to dwell on them: cachemire, popeline, and velvet are

bonnet, with wreath of roses inside. the materials chiefly employed for them, and also plush ; the Child's Dress.-Frock of popeline and paletot of ruby vel. frocks are with fiounces, their body open or with basques at vet. Capote of satin, ornamented with ruches. the waist. Velvet, satin, and plush also form the materials Walking Dress -Robe of taffetas, with narrow bands of of their bonnets.

velvet à disposition wove in the material; pelisse of black satin, trimmed with two bands of velvet; hood to correspond,

lined with satin. Bonnet of pink silk and black lace, with DESCRIPTION OF THE ENGRAVINGS.

næuds.

PLATE IV.
PLATE I.
Carriage Dress.-Robe of violet velvet, with jacket body

Walking Dress.-Robe of cachemire, with flounces with ornamented by nieuds of ribbon; the jacket is in tabs, trim

open body; mantelet shawl embroidered with velvet. Capote

of satin. med round with black lace; the sleeves of two bouillons with two rows of black lace and white under-sleeves. Bonnet of

Dinner Dress.--Robe of taffetas, with pinked flounces and moir satin and white lace, ornamented with velvet ribbon.

open jacket body trimmed with pinked frills, as also the Carriage Dress.-Robe of reps ; the skirt is covered by

sleeves ; guimpe of embroidered muslin and coiffure of lace. flounces, which are ornamented at the edge by vandykes and

Walking Dress.-Robe of cloth, trimmed with plush and velvet lozenges ; small mantelet of ruby velvet, trimmed with

Talma, trimmed wide galons. Capote of satin and velvet. black guipure and small næuds and ends of velvet ribbon.

Evening Dress.—Robe of gauze; the skirt is entirely coCapote of deep blue velvet, with shaded feathers at the sides.

vered by three deep flounces of lace, interspersed with small Dinner Dress.-Robe of pink taffetas; the body is very

bows of ribbon; the body is with two falls of lace across the

shoulders to the waist and næuds between Head-dress of open and edged by a plissé of ribbon, which is continued on the skirt en tablier ; half-long sleeves ornamented by plissés

hair in bandeaux, with velvet foliage and streamers. of ribbon ; guimpe, with sleeves of embroidered muslin and

Carriage Dress.—Robe of satin and mantelet of velvet ruche round the throat, with ribbon næud. Head-dress of

trimmed with two rows of guipure, headed by small bows and hair in bandeaux, with coiffure of black lace and flowers,

a third row at the top. Bonnet of velvet, with feathers. placed quite at the back of the head.

PLATE V. Walking Dress.-Robe of popeline, with jacket body ornamented by velvet pattes; Talma of green velvet, trimmed Child's cloak of blue cachemire made with a cape and hood, with marten fur, which rising up the fronts forms collar; and trimmed with black velvet; the hood is lined with white muff to correspond. Bonnet of Terry velvet and lace, orna

satin and ornamented with a bow and ends. mented by næuds and ends of ribbon.

Chapeau of red velvet, lined with the same in vandykes over Walking Dress.-Robe of cachemire, with flounces embroi- white silk. dered in silk; pardessus of iron gray velvet trimmed with Carriage bonnet of blond and pink satin, strings of the same, fringe, it closes up the front with buttons, having a pelerine with a cap of small white flowers and bows inside. also trimmed with fringe and buttons. Bonnet of black guipure, Bonnet of green velvet, trimmed with a fancy work of guimp with velvet flowers.

and three large flowers placed on black lace on each side. PLATE II.

Chapeau of blue satin, edged with stamped velvet of the

same colour, lined with white silk and a wreath of yellow Walking Dress - Robe of cachemire cloth, with high body and basques; manteau of cloth, ornamented with velvet

Dress cap of black blond, with pink feathers and ribbons. trimming forming revers up the front and collar. Capote of

Second ditto of white lace, trimmed with red flowers and currant-coloured velvet and satin, with feathers. Little Girl's Dress.-Frock of amber popeline, with very

long green leaves.

Morning cap of worked muslin, with amber satin ribbon. open jacket, edged by a band of stamped velvet, and united

Evening ditto of blond and laee, trimmed with bows and by bands across the front, showing a waistcoat of embroidered

ends of emerald sarcenet. muslin.

White sleeves of cambric and lace. Carriage Dress.-Robe redingote of popeline; the body is very open, and edged by a band of velvet, two rows of which

DESCRIPTION OF MODEL. descend the skirt en tablier, with nouds in the centre ; chemisette of embroidered muslin. Bonnet of pink satin, and The Model is of a Talma, which may be enlarged or reduced lace with feathers.

at pleasure, but they are not worn very deep; the piece cut Walking Dress.-Robe of moire, with jacket body ; man- out at the throat is to show the size of a fold or plait which telet of ruby velvet, trimmed with black laco. Bonnet of enables it to sit more comfortably round the throat. These Terry velvet and satin.

Talmas are mostly made of black cloth trimmed with a band Morning Dress. -Robe of pink taffetas, with three deep of green, violet, gray, and plush, which is continued up the flounces; jacket of black velvet. Cap formed of sereral roirs front and forms deep collar at the throat. Furs are also freof lace and Douds of velvet ribbon.

quently used to trim them.

roses.

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