FROM

OUR FRENCH CORRESPONDENT.

BOULEVARD DES ITALIENS, December 27th, 1853.

CHERE AMIE, FEATHERS are quite the vogue of the day, and used for every style of trimming, whether for bonnets or dresses, in plumes, fringe or bands; the rich materials of full dress, the moires antique, brocarts, rich satins will all be ornamented with bands of feather trimming. The style of bodies is of the Watteau form, and bugles are frequently introduced on these feather bands; the sparkling effect amongst the feathers having a good effect. Both black and white lace are much used on dresses, and particularly guipure, which forms so rich a contrast of itself on any colour.

For evening dresses, both satins and velvets are covered with flounces of lace often raised at the sides by bunches of flowers, ribbon, or feathers; they are worn very long, forming small trains, but walking dresses are made less full and a little shorter. Triple skirts are still worn; pretty evening dresses are made of either black or white tulle, with three skirts over coloured satins, each terminating with a bouillon; the body and sleeves should be entirely in bouillons. Very pretty ones are of coloured tulle, with triple flounces trimmed with ruches of the same in scollops at the edge.

A new style of ornamenting flounces is with short pattes or bands of ribbon rising up the flounce at intervals, those on each flounce placed so as to come in the middle of each space; the body and sleeves correspond as well as the jacket, except that on the front of the body they form brandenbourgs. Another pretty style for flounces is edging them with several rows of narrow black lace, which form ruches, and are also ornamented with fancy velvet trimmings, or have a pattern stamped out in the silk. Black silk dresses with flounces look very well with a green plush ribbon forming scroll on the flounces, the shades of colour varying as it ascends. Many morning dresses are made of cloth; the bodies with jacket attached, the form being usually of the redingote style, but they are also sometimes with very full skirt and body, with double jacket in iron gray, trimmed with a broad galon; they look very well, a narrow galon edging the jacket, &c.

Though the number of flounces on dresses is sometimes

VOL. 27.

very great, yet we also see a single very deep one, edged and headed by a galon or velvet, &c., or even by a stamped velvet forming vandyke edge; and on crape dresses the flounces have wreaths in delicate designs of velvet or plush, graduating as they rise. Gold and silver have also their advocates.

The make of sleeves is very much varied; all kinds are worn; puffs or creves are very much used; some sleeves have two bouffants terminating with a frill, others have jockeys of velvet, &c.; the most numerous are those made open. Jackets are still very fashionable; some of the dress-makers put a seam down the centre of the back, and no side-piece, which is said to improve the set of the back.

Plush is quite the novelty of the season, and is particularly used on manteaux; not only plain, but often imitating different furs. Plush also forms a pretty style of trimming for the jacket bodies, placed in short bands as brandenbourgs on each side the fronts, and also on the sleeves; they may be made of ribbon, plush or plain. On manteaux the plush is generally of a contrasting colour, as on black cloth, deep violet &c., but checked plush is even used for waistcoats by ladies. Velvet guipure is very much admired for trimming either dresses or manteaux.

The recent cold weather has caused the pelisses trimmed with fur to be in request: they are mostly of velvet; when thus trimmed marten is the most usually worn, but squirrel is not despised, and grebe is very elegant; these pardessus are made short, and with very full sleeves; frequently muffs are made to match the pardessus of velvet or satin trimmed at the ends with feather bands or fur.

The small cloth Talmas still continue in fashion, those of black cloth, being trimmed with bands of coloured plush which rise up the front and form collar. Many are of black velvet, ornamented with black guipure; these are sometimes with ends in front, giving a little of the mantelet form. Warm useful cloaks are made of a worsted plush: they are ornamented with short bands or pattes of velvet up each side, terminating with a large button. Others again are made of a double flannel and trimmed with fringe.

Some of the Talmas are made with sleeves, others hang in folds behind the pelisses of cloth trimmed round with bands of velvet, and the shoulder-piece entirely of velvet are warm, and comfortable for morning wear. Marron, or a reddish light brown, trimmed with black velvet, look very well. Many pelisses are made of black satin, bordered with several rows of ribbon, put on full alternately satin and moire.

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There is not much variation in the form of bonnets: the prevailing ones are of satin and velvet in bouillons or bands, the velvet, black and satin coloured; the trimmings are placed very forward on the front, either a flower or nœud; times the crowns are of velvet and the fronts of other materials, but ornamented by velvet foliage, stars, &c.; the crowns are still of the receding form-and altogether the bonnets this season are of a much lighter description than we have hitherto seen in the winter, owing to the great use of blond and lace, the open edges, &c.; often a pointed broad band of velvet between the edge and crown seems the only solid part; the colours preferred are marron and currant for general use, and blue for more elegant wear.

Children's dresses are such a complete imitation of the prevailing fashions for their elders that it would be mere repetition to dwell on them: cachemire, popeline, and velvet are the materials chiefly employed for them, and also plush; the frocks are with flounces, their body open or with basques at the waist. Velvet, satin, and plush also form the materials of their bonnets.

DESCRIPTION OF THE ENGRAVINGS.

PLATE I.

Carriage Dress.-Robe of violet velvet, with jacket body ornamented by neuds of ribbon; the jacket is in tabs, trimmed round with black lace; the sleeves of two bouillons with two rows of black lace and white under-sleeves. Bonnet of moir satin and white lace, ornamented with velvet ribbon.

Carriage Dress.-Robe of reps; the skirt is covered by flounces, which are ornamented at the edge by vandykes and velvet lozenges; small mantelet of ruby velvet, trimmed with black guipure and small noeuds and ends of velvet ribbon. Capote of deep blue velvet, with shaded feathers at the sides.

Dinner Dress.-Robe of pink taffetas; the body is very open and edged by a plissé of ribbon, which is continued on the skirt en tablier; half-long sleeves ornamented by plissés of ribbon; guimpe, with sleeves of embroidered muslin and ruche round the throat, with ribbon noeud. Head-dress of hair in bandeaux, with coiffure of black lace and flowers, placed quite at the back of the head.

Walking Dress.-Robe of popeline, with jacket body ornamented by velvet pattes; Talma of green velvet, trimmed with marten fur, which rising up the fronts forms collar; muff to correspond. Bonnet of Terry velvet and lace, ornamented by noeuds and ends of ribbon.

Walking Dress.-Robe of cachemire, with flounces embroidered in silk; pardessus of iron gray velvet trimmed with fringe, it closes up the front with buttons, having a pelerine also trimmed with fringe and buttons. Bonnet of black guipure, with velvet flowers.

PLATE II.

Walking Dress.-Robe of cachemire cloth, with high body and basques; manteau of cloth, ornamented with velvet trimming forming revers up the front and collar. Capote of currant-coloured velvet and satin, with feathers.

Little Girl's Dress.-Frock of amber popeline, with very open jacket, edged by a band of stamped velvet, and united by bands across the front, showing a waistcoat of embroidered muslin.

Carriage Dress.-Robe redingote of popeline; the body is very open, and edged by a band of velvet, two rows of which descend the skirt en tablier, with nœuds in the centre; chemisette of embroidered muslin. Bonnet of pink satin, and lace with feathers.

Walking Dress.-Robe of moire, with jacket body; mantelet of ruby velvet, trimmed with black lace. Bonnet of Terry velvet and satin.

Morning Dress.-Robe of pink taffetas, with three deep flounces; jacket of black velvet. Cap formed of several rows of lace and noeuds of velvet ribbon.

PLATE III.

Carriage Dress.-Robe of broché silk, with open body and basques at the waist; manteau of black velvet, with pelerine forming sleeves vandyked at the edge, and trimmed with rich fringe. Bonnet of Terry velvet and satin, with flowers.

Carriage Dress.-Robe redingote of satin, ornamented on the skirt by crevés, edged with narrow lace; Talma of velvet, trimmed with ermine. Bonnet of marron velvet and black lace.

Walking Dress.-Robe of drogant, with flounces; manteau of velvet, ornamented with nœuds of ribbon. Capote in bouillons of satin.

Little Girl's Dress.-Frock of striped cachemire and pelisse, with deep cape of cachemire, richly embroidered. Plush bonnet, with wreath of roses inside.

Child's Dress-Frock of popeline and paletot of ruby velvet. Capote of satin, ornamented with ruches.

Walking Dress,-Robe of taffetas, with narrow bands of velvet à disposition wove in the material; pelisse of black satin, trimmed with two bands of velvet; hood to correspond, lined with satin. Bonnet of pink silk and black lace, with nœuds.

PLATE IV.

Walking Dress.-Robe of cachemire, with flounces with open body; mantelet shawl embroidered with velvet. Capote

of satin.

Dinner Dress.-Robe of taffetas, with pinked flounces and open jacket body trimmed with pinked frills, as also the sleeves; guimpe of embroidered muslin and coiffure of lace.

Walking Dress.-Robe of cloth, trimmed with plush and Talma, trimmed wide galons. Capote of satin and velvet.

Evening Dress.-Robe of gauze; the skirt is entirely covered by three deep flounces of lace, interspersed with small bows of ribbon; the body is with two falls of lace across the shoulders to the waist and noeuds between. Head-dress of

hair in bandeaux, with velvet foliage and streamers. Carriage Dress.-Robe of satin and mantelet of velvet trimmed with two rows of guipure, headed by small bows and a third row at the top. Bonnet of velvet, with feathers.

PLATE V.

Child's cloak of blue cachemire made with a cape and hood, and trimmed with black velvet; the hood is lined with white satin and ornamented with a bow and ends.

Chapeau of red velvet, lined with the same in vandykes over white silk.

Carriage bonnet of blond and pink satin, strings of the same, with a cap of small white flowers and bows inside.

Bonnet of green velvet, trimmed with a fancy work of guimp and three large flowers placed on black lace on each side. Chapeau of blue satin, edged with stamped velvet of the same colour, lined with white silk and a wreath of yellow

DESCRIPTION OF MODEL.

The Model is of a Talma, which may be enlarged or reduced at pleasure, but they are not worn very deep; the piece cut out at the throat is to show the size of a fold or plait which enables it to sit more comfortably round the throat. These Talmas are mostly made of black cloth trimmed with a band of green, violet, gray, and plush, which is continued up the front and forms deep collar at the throat. Furs are also frequently used to trim them.