THE LONDON AND PARIS LADIES' MAGAZINE FOR JULY, 1854. 55 SUMMER. I'm coming along with a bounding pace, The flow'rs in the vales through which I've run. And deck'd all nature in brighter bloom. And I've made fond lovers seek the moon. For this is my life, my glorious reign, And I'll queen it well in my leafy bower, I'm queen of the leaf, the bud, and flower. And I'll reign in triumph till autumn time Till I'm called again as a sunny bride. F. L. by Prince Eugene on the night before a battle, when no doubt the two generals were in consultation upon a measure that might decide the fate of an empire, was heard to call his servant to account for lighting up four candles in his tent upon the occasion, and was once actually seen on horseback darning his own gloves. Hobbes, who wrote the "Leviathan," a deist in creed, had a most extraordinary belief in spirits and apparitions. Locke, the philosopher, the matter-of-fact Locke, who wrote, and in fact established the decision of things by the rule of right reason, laying down the rule itself; he delighted in romances, and revelled in works of fiction. What was the great Lord Verulam ? Alas! too truly, "the wisest, greatest, meanest of mankind." As for Martin Luther, the reformer, he was so passionate and unchristian-like, that he struck his friends, Melancthon in particular, and perhaps would have burned him, as readily as an Inquisitor in those days would have burned a heretic, in the paroxysms of his rage. Cæsar Cardinal Richelieu, the minister of a great empire, believed in the calculation of nativities. Sir Thomas More burned the heretic to whom in his writings he gave full liberty of conscience. Alexander the Great was a drunkard, and slew his friends in his cups. sullied the glory of his talents by the desire of governing his country despotically, and died the victim ORNAMENT.-Nature is our true guide in our appli- of his ambition, though one of the wisest, most accomcation of ornament. She delights in it, but ever in sub-plished and humane of conquerors. But we are travelserviency to use. Men generally pursue an opposite ling too far back for examples which should be taken from later times. Tasso believed in his good angel, and was often observed to converse with what he fancied was a spirit or demon, which he declared he saw. Raphael, the most gifted artist the world ever produced, died at the age of thirty-seven, his constitution weakened by his irregular living. Dr. Samuel Johnson was notoriously superstitious. built St. Paul's Cathedral, was a believer in dreams. He Sir Christopher Wren, who had a pleurisy once, being in Paris, and dreamed that he was in a place where palm trees grew, and that a woman in a romantic dress gave him some dates. The next day he sent for some dates, in the full belief of their revealed virtues, and they cured him. Dr. Halley had the same superstitous belief. Melancthon believed in dreams or apparitions, and used to say that one came to him in his study, and told him to bid Guynæus, his friend, to go away for some time, as the Inquisition sought his life. His friend went away in consequence, and thus, by accident really saved his life. Addison was fond of the bottle, and is said to have shortened his days by it. Burns, the poet, was a hard drinker, and there can be no doubt wore out his constitution by his conviviality. dulent. Goldsmith was a gambler, and the victim of the frauhe believed to be an angel. Garrick was as vain as any Prior was the dupe of a common woman, whom woman, and equally loved flattery. Kneller's vanity was such that nothing was too gross for him to swallow. course, and adorn only to encumber. With the refined few, simplicity is the feature of greatest merit in ornament. The trifling, the vulgar-minded, and the ignorant prize only what is striking and costly-something showy in contrast, and difficult to be obtained. Nothing can more severely or more truly satirise this taste than the fancy of the negro chief in the interior of Africa, who received an Englishman's visit of ceremony in a drummer's jacket and judge's wig. I always think of this personage when I see a lady loaded with jewels; and if I had a wife, and she had such encumbrances, from the anxiety for which I saw no other chance of her being relieved, I should heartily rejoice in one of those mysterious disappearances which have been so frequent of late, and which, it may be, have sometimes originated in a feeling, on the part of the husband, similar to mine.-Walker's Original. THE FAILINGS OF GIFTED MEN. Ir is a singular circumstance that many men of genius have exhibited obvious marks of human frailty. Pope was an epicure, and would lie in bed at Lord Boling broke's for days, unless he was told there were stewed lampreys for dinner, when he rose instantly and came to the table. Even Sir Isaac Newton gave credit to the idle nonsense of judicial astrology: he who first calculated the distance of the stars, and revealed the laws of motion by which the Supreme Being organises and keeps in their orbits unnumbered worlds; he who had revealed the mysteries of the stars themselves. Dryden, Sir Isaac Newton's contemporary, believed in the same absurdity. The great Duke of Marlborough, when visited boast of a "Hypsipyle," that gorgeous beauty whose hair ENGLISH BEAUTIES.-Though the bards of Hellas may comparison with the beauties of our own favoured land, fell flowingly to her feet; yet would she bear but poor glossiness of their hair. In no country in the world is who are universally eulogised for the luxuriant and silky more attention paid to the hair than in Great Britain; and, unlike other nations, there is no set fashion or uniformity of practice in wearing it-every female exercising her own good taste, and taxing her ingenuity in displaying her beautiful hair to the best advantage according to the contour of her face. This variety is pleasing, and one is delighted in a mixed fashionable assemblage to glance from head-dress to head-dress, witnessing here the hair flowing freely in ringlets, waving unconfined over neck and shoulders-there crisp set curls, framing the temples and blooming cheeks-anon braids and plain Madonna bands set off with a simple flower or wreath. Another has elaborately woven and twined masses, adorning the back of the head, interlaced with ribbons or pearls-each eye forming its own beauty. The portraits of the beginning of the century, and even down to the time of Lawrence's supremacy, show the hair falling thick upon the brow, and flowing, especially in the young, over the shoulders.-Rowland on the Hair. THE FEAST OF LA SENORA DE LA PAZ. DURING many days previous great exertions had been made in the erection of scaffoldings in front of the old cathedral. These were from thirty to forty feet high, and covered with crimson cloth, and were abundantly decorated with pictures of saints, framed in silver; forks, spoons, dishes, jugs, and all sorts of domestic utensils of the same precious metal; images, garlands, drapery, together with fruits of every variety, from the water-melon to the fragrant pine-apple; flowers of every description, and of every hue; vegetables of all sorts and sizes, from the formidable pumpkin to the unpresuming radish, all tastefully arranged around silver, plaster, and wooden images of saints and angels, which cut rather a ludicrous figure as they peered forth from amidst such a profusion of dainty fare. Within the building, the various altars were adorned in like manner with everything calculated to add to the gaiety of the scene. The neighbourhood was filled with roving parties of Indians, attired in the peculiar costume of their several tribes; some of them, both men and women, following the fashions of the Peruvians, carried crowns of variegated feathers on their heads, leopard skins thrown over their shoulders, and their bodies decked with kirtles of feathers. With bows and arrows in their hands, and dancing unweariedly to the rude sounds of their native music, these unpolished sons of nature were to be met with in all parts of the city for hours, and failed not to excite attention in their efforts to celebrate the day. Some parties appeared in long robes of white, neatly plaited round the body, with their faces blackened, and wearing broad belts of variegated feathers of exquisite workmanship-others with lappels or wings of the same material-the head-dress being a sort of diadem, with one feather at the back. Each carried a pandean pipe, which in some cases person was of large, in others of small, dimensions-but the combined effects of them, though the intonations were in rather a melancholy strain, was anything but disagreeable or inharmonious. Some of the most eccentric performers on this occasion wore large cocked hats, several yards in extent, made of paper, and trimmed with varie gated feathers, the aforesaid plume in the centre, of colossal dimensions, forming a conspicuous feature; their faces wearing masks, representing the heads of wolves, bears, or monkeys. Others appeared habited in old court suits, or faded regimentals, with epaulettes of feathers, and mounted on imitation buffaloes, leopards, and dragons, having their legs hidden by a kind of petticoat. In their hands they carried small lookingglasses, in which they continually affected to admire themselves, and they produced much merriment by their antics and gambols, occasionally rushing at the people with their horns-then formally and with much ceremony joining the musicians and dancers. At night, large bonfires illuminate the neighbourhood, and a general fire of squibs and crackers takes place, until the actors in this strange scene, overcome with drink, reel, quarrel, fight, and tumble home. The general effect at night is much heightened by the numerous lamps and lanterns with which the several altars of the church are decorated. The amusements peculiar to this festival generally last two or three days, when, to those who love quiet and decorum, it is agreeable to find that order is again restored.-Travels in Bolivia. A PLEASANT LODGER.-One of the insects which I most dreaded was the "wood tick," an unpleasant looking creature, very much resembling those which infest sheep, but possessing a great penchant for a residence under the human skin, into and beneath which it eats its way until nearly hidden from sight, without any pain to the person attacked for the first several hours; so that it often escapes notice until the intolerable aching of a large portion of the body surrounding it leads to the detection of the insect, which must then be pulled or cut out. These ticks live among wood, and are sometimes brought into the house with the fuel. I have frequently seen them on my dress or habit when walking or riding in the "bush," and have, on two occasions, been bitten: once on the throat, by a small one which had been several hours at work. It had buried its head entirely, and required a strong pull with tweezers before it could be extracted, the creature being as hard as bone, and very toughly jointed. I felt very little pain afterwards on this occasion; but the second of the insidious little miners, which also attacked me in the neck, was a much larger specimen, and it had begun to cause a most distressing ache in my shoulder, neck, and arm, which I attributed to rheumatism, until, on passing my hand over my dress, I detected its round hard body, which was too firmly attached for me to pull it away myself. After it was removed I suffered great pain and numbness in the arm and shoulder for several days.—Mrs. Meredith's "Home in Tasmania." THE proud Duke of Somerset, a little defore his death, paid a visit to Sarah, Duchess of Marlborough, who insisted on his drinking with her a glass of tokay, which had been presented to her husband by the emperor. He assented, and she addressed him as follows:-"My lord, I consider your grace drinking a glass of wine with me as a very high honour, and I will beg leave to propose two healths, the most unpopular imaginable, and which nobody in the three kingdoms except ourselves would drink; here goes-Your.health and mine." THE PROPRIETORS of the LONDON AND PARIS MAGAZINE have received numerous letters from parties wishing to become Subscribers, complaining of the disappointment experienced in not being able to obtain Copies till nearly the Middle of the Month; the Proprietors beg to impress upon them the necessity of giving their Orders not later than the 24th to remedy the like in future. MARION'S RESILIENT BODICE AND CORSALETTO DI MEDICI PATENTED IN GREAT BRITAIN AND IRELAND, IN FRANCE, BELGIUM, AND AUSTRIA. FIG. 1.-Front view of the Corsaletto di Medici, having resilients in conformity with the movements of respiration. FIG. 2.-View of the Back of the Resilient Bodice and Corsaletto di Medici, with the resilients in imitation of the natural arrangement of the muscles, and corresponding therewith in the movements of the body. "It affords us pleasure to observe the goodly array of our medical brethren who have borne testimony in favour of the above useful invention-a beautifully elastic Corset, than which we conceive nothing can be more desirable and complete."-Editor of the Medical Circular. "So highly recommended by the faculty, and now so extensively patronised by the élite of our aristocracy, we need hardly say that all whom we have any influence over shall in future wear them."-Editor of the Courier. THESE unique inventions combine FIRMNESS with ELASTICITY; they fasten easily in front, fit closely, and retain the original symmetry of their adjustment. Their beautiful resilient action, elegant appearance, and anatomical correctness, have already won for them the highest admiration. They are judiciously adapted to every varying condition of the female form, and are suited to every age, figure, and habitude. Ladies in health, convalescents, and invalids, wear them with equal satisfaction, and having experienced the comforts and advantages they insure, will not return to the ordinary stays and their attendant evils. The oblique transverse resilients have each a distinct action in accordance with muscular movement, and are variable in number, size, and position, as individual configuration may require. In addition to these, are lateral elastic insertions, from the arms to the hips, and down the sides of the fastening, whereby the due balance of the figure is sustained, and the tension equalised under all muscular and respiratory activity. The insertion of quilted silk, or flannel of fine texture, under the transverse resilients, while enhancing the beauty of the attire, conduces to a genial warmth in the region of the spine; and simultaneously with this, another equally important condition is attained--the open transverse work promotes the free exhalation from the skin, which is indispensable to health, insures freedom from the chilliness occasioned by impeded perspiration, and mitigates other unpleasant sensations generally complained of by ladies who wear stays and corsets of the ordinary impervious materials and rigid structure. *The gores of elactic resilients in the lower part of the front, each side the fastening, are given in the Corsaletto only, and are its distinguishing feature of variation from the Bodice. The Corsaletto has the preference in the estimation of medical men; its peculiar construction conferring the utmost ease and pliancy over a region of the human frame unceasingly mobile to the internal vital activities, the habitual compression of which creates indigestion, disturbs the action of the heart, and exercises a debilitating influence on the general health. Bodices of plain Coutil or Jean, with cotton elastic resilients, from 14s. to 20s.; children's, 4s. to 11s. ; and Corsalettos, 21s. Fine silk elastic resilients are used in Bodices of best Single Coutil, 218.; Corsalettos, 25s. ; and Bodices of best Double Coutil, at 25s. Corsalettos, 30s. Extra fine qualities in similar proportions. Side-lacing added when required, 3s. 6d. extra. FINE LIGHT QUALITIES MADE UP FOR INDIA, WITH INCORRODIBLE BUSKS AND STEELS, EVERY ARTICLE CAREFULLY MADE, WELL FINISHED THROUGHOUT, AND OF GUARANTEED DURABILITY. ALL COUNTRY ORDERS SENT, WITHOUT EXTRA CHARGE, CARRIAGE PAID OR POST FREE. LADIES' RESILIENT SUSTAINING BELTS, of fine woven elastic silk, self-adjusting, without fastenings, and affording an agreeable and unvarying support in any temperature. These Belts are highly prized by all Ladies who have adopted them. They will wash without injury, and are very durable. Also a judicious assortment of LADIES' BELTS, constructed on a practical knowledge of the varied necessities for support, price 21s. to £3 3s. ENLARGED PROSPECTUS, Price List, explicit Directions, and Self-measurement Papers, together with OPINIONS of SIR JAMES CLARK, the Queen's Physician; Dr. J. FORBES, Physician to Her Majesty's Household; SIR B. C. BRODIE, Serjeant-Surgeon to the Queen; Dr. J. C. B. WILLIAMS, Dr. PARIS, Dr. HOLLAND, Dr. THOMPSON, Dr. LAYCOCK, Dr. WALSHE, Dr. CONQUEST, Dr. Rowe, and other eminent Physicians, Surgeons, and Anatomists, "ON THE INFLUENCE OF STAYS AND CORSETS UPON THE HEALTH OF WOMEN." Illustrated by Engravings, anatomical and descriptive-elegantly printed in crown 8vo, 32pp.: given on application, or forwarded Post Free on receipt of Two Stamps for Postage. MESDAMES MARION AND MAITLAND, PATENTEES AND SOLE MANUFACTURERS, 51, CONNAUGHT TERRACE, HYDE PARK, LONDON, STIFF STAYS SUPERSEDED BY WHITTAKERS' IMPROVED ELASTIC BODICE. Elegance of figure is obtained, as pulmonary complaints prevented; fastening in front; worn by Ladies of rank, price 10s. to 20s. PROSPECTUS AND SELF-MEASUREMENT PAPER SENT ON RECEIPT OF A STAMP. MESDAMES A. and F. WHITTAKER, No. 5, Gerrard Street, Soho, OPPOSITE RIMMELL'S, PERFUMER. N.B.-A Liberal Allowance to Dressmakers, &c. FROM OUR FRENCH CORRESPONDENT. CHERE AMIE, AUGUST, 1854. BOULEVARD DES ITALIENS. July 29th, 1854. THE intermixture of flounces of different colours is a mode that seems to find favour; we do not mean the introduction of numerous colours, but alternately the same as the dress and some other colour that contrasts prettily, the ruches or trimmings of each being of the contrasting colour: there is a peculiarity in this style that will not please all, and requires much judgment in the selection of the colours, and perhaps is better suited for slight materials of evening dress than silks, though they are made even of black silk, with alternate flounces of black and coloured, over which sometimes a black lace is added; the sleeves of these dresses are also formed of alternate frills to correspond. Another style of trimming, which may be equally used with or without flounces, is of bands, made of any taffetas that is checked, or with pattern on, and this is edged by a velvet or very small ruche; these may be placed simply on the skirt, or as borders on flounces. For barège dresses they are particularly suited. Ruches of tulle are very much used to trim muslin dresses, as well as those worn in negligé. They form a very pretty finish to the jackets, as well as the pagoda sleeves; they also are pretty to edge flounces. The under-sleeves are in various styles-many in bouillons; others in creases; others again more open, or with wristband and deep frill. The sleeves of dresses are also various; the prettiest are open, with bands to unite them; they show the under-sleeve to great advantage. Others loop up. White jackets are often made for morning wear, with skirts of coloured jaconot muslin, foulards, &c.; they are prettily trimmed with several rows of narrow Valenciennes lace, forming a kind of ruche, and closing up the front with buttons. These white jacket bodies are also worn with black skirts. Double skirts are in great favour this season, and no longer confined to the ball-room; they are as suitable for the various thin materials used at this moment. They may be left plain or ornamented as fancy wills it, but of course have a more undressed appearance than when ornamented by the bouffants of ribbon, ruches, velvet, &c. For evening dress VOL. 27. they are particularly pretty in organdy or tarlatane, simply hemmed and raised up at the side by a bouquet of flowers. Noeuds of ribbon are also introduced in profusion, mostly in long loops of narrow ribbon. The fashion still prevails of making the skirts extremely bouffant round the bottom, quite rivalling the hoop of our ancestors; various means are adopted to produce this effect, as we have detailed in former numbers of our Magazine. We are glad to find some improvement in bonnets; they are certainly a degree larger, and it is no longer in good taste to wear them so completely on the back of the head, a style odious in every point of view, and totally destroying the symmetry of any figure, whilst at the same time it exposes the face to a scorching sun and cold winds; and we are not surprised to find such a fashion descended into vulgarity. As the season advances the straws have become more and more general, and the fancy ones are worked with so much delicacy that they are become quite elegant. Nothing can be prettier than those formed of this open lace straw, with crowns of silk, and ruches of silk, though ruches are also seen of straw upon the edges of bonnets, formed of numerous loops, which give a full sort of trimming rather than a ruche. The trimmings continue to be worn rather forward on the fronts of the bonnets; lace lappets, particularly of black lace, are often used to ornament bonnets, sometimes looped up in noeuds, sometimes left to droop. The fauchons are also again much in favour, and when made of the guimpe straw have a very good effect over coloured silks. At this season, fruits ornament bonnets as well as flowers. Coloured mixed straws are much in request for country wear, trimmed with dark ribbons. Ruches are less frequently put on the edge of the bonnet, but a little from it, midway, being less common. The mantelet echarpes, are very small and very various in the style of trimmings, but the smallness of the scarf itself is quite made up by the depth of the lace, which may be used of any width; sometimes the scarf forms it own revers at the neck by means of small gussets introduced on the shoulders and back, which are concealed under the lace. The small Talmas of black taffetas are much worn, with trimmings of black velvet stamped in wreaths or various designs; and ruches are the favourite style of ornamenting them. Mantelet scarfs, both black and white, are made in application on tulle, and have a rich, though perhaps rather a heavy effect, |