An economical Cook, when she boils animal food, will make a rule to convert the liquor, or broth, into some sort of soup or stock, which may be done at her leisure, and by which means she will always have a rich kitchen, as it is technically called, and will be able to make an extra dish, or an additional tureen of soup, at a short notice, and at a trifling ex-. pense. The fragments of meat left after dinner, with the trimmings of undressed meat and game, the heads, necks, gizzards, and feet of fowls, &c. when picked and washed clean, will help to enrich soups, or make stock, and save much expense in gravy meat. The broths, if saved in separate pans, will assist in making white or brown soups, and the gravies left in the dishes after dinner, will be good in hashes, or, with some trifling ingredients added, will make sauce for fish, goose, &c.

The liquor of a knuckle of veal may be converted into GLAZE, if boiled with a knuckle of ham, till reduced to a fourth or a third part, with the necessary herbs and spices added.

To prepare Soups, &c.-the first care of the Cook will be to see that the stew-pan to be used is well tinned, scalded, and wiped out perfectly clean and dry. She will put some butter or marrow into the bottom of the pan, then lay in a leg or shin of beef with the bones. well broken, and the meat cut to pieces; or the skirts of beef, the kidney or melt, or the shank bones of mutton, well cleaned, with the fragments and trimmings of meat and other articles, as above mentioned ;-these she will cover close and keep over a slow fire an hour, stirring it up, occasionally, from the bottom, and taking great care that it does not burn.

-When all the virtues of the meats are extracted, and the juices are again absorbed by them, she will add water enough to cover them, which will be in the proportion of about quart of water to a pound of meat, for soup, and to two pounds, for gravies; the scum must then be carefully taken off, quite clean, as it rises, after it has boiled; for the more soups and broths are skimmed, the better, and more transparent they will be: and this transparency, combined with their uniformity of taste, constitutes their chief excellence. It is important that the soup be kept gently simmering five or six or more hours, and that then be added a scraped carrot, a head of celery, a couple of onions, two turnips, and a few sweet herbs; when ready, let it be strained carefully through a clean tamis, previously dipped in cold water, into stone or unglazed earthen pans, and let the fat remain upon it, to preserve it, till wanted.

Soups and broths when done, ought not to be covered, nor put away with vegetables in them.

Use soft water to boil white peas, and let the peas be whole; but pump water will make green peas-soup of a better colour.

A good tureen of peas-soup may be made from the liquor of pork, mutton, or beef.

The lean of hams or gammon of bacon should be used when Stock is made; but if the former, first give it a boil in water, before you put it in, else it will turn the soup red.

The sediment of gravies, &c. that have stood to be cold, should never be used.

A clear jelly of cow-heels makes a great improvement to gravies and soups.

A lump of clarified butter, thoroughly mixed with flour and boiled with the soup will give it a richness and a greater consistency, if required. A little tarragon added, just before. it is served up, will give it an agreeable flavour. All soups should be sent to table quite hot. CULLIS, or brown gravy, is made with lean veal and ham or gammon, and sweet herbs, &c. BECHAMEL, or white sauce, is made in the same way, but is not browned; it must be improved by the addition of equal quantities of good broth and thick cream simmered with it half an hour, before it is strained off.

The articles used in thickening, seasoning, and flavouring broths and soups, are chiefly bread, flour, oatmeal, peas, rice, Scotch and pearl-barley, isinglass, maccaroni, turnips, beet, carrots, mushrooms, garlick, onions, shallots, cress, parsley, thyme, sage, mint, and other sweet and savoury herbs; also allspice, cinnamon, cloves, mace, nutmeg, ginger, pepper, lemon-juice, essence of anchovies, &c. these combined with wine and mushroom catsup, form an endless variety for flavouring and seasoning broths and soups.

Basil, savoury, and knotted-marjorum, are very pungent, and should be used cautiously.

No Cook can support the credit of her kitchen without having plenty of gravy, cullis, and stock always at hand, as these are the bases of all soups and high-seasoned dishes. Sauces and Gravies.

These are simple, and easily made.

GRAVY FOR ROAST MEAT.

Almost every joint will afford trimmings enough to make plain gravy for itself, which may be heightened with a little browning.

Or, half an hour before the meat is done, mix a little salt and boiling water, and drop it on the brown parts of the meat, which catch in something under, and set it by to cool; when the meat is ready, remove the fat, warm the gravy, and pour it into the dish.

Or, the brown bits of roasted or broiled meat, infused a night in boiling water, and the next day just boiled up, and trained off, will make a good gravy.

GRAVY FOR BOILED MEAT.

Make it of the trimmings and paring of the meat.

Or pour as much of the liquor as may be necessary into the dish, and pierce the meat, on the under part, with a skewer.

MELTED BUTTER.

Cut two ounces of butter into small pieces, and put it into a pint saucepan, with a large tea-spoonful of flour, and two table-spoonsful of milk; when thoroughly mixed, add six table-spoonsful of water, shake it continually, over the fire, always the same way, till it simmers, then set it on, and let it just boil up, when it will be about the thickness of cream: if too thick to eat with vegetables, add a little more milk. This is the foundation of almost all the sauces.

Two table-spoonsful of mushroom catsup added to this instead of the milk, will make an excellent sauce for fish, flesh, or foul, and particularly for chops and steaks.

If butter be oiled in melting, put in a spoonful of cold wa ter and stir it with a spoon; or pour it forward and back. ward from the saucepan to the boat, till it is come again.

LEMON SAUCE.

Pare a lemon, cnt it into thick slices, and divide these into small squares or dice, which mix with a quarter of a pint of melted butter.

PARSLEY AND BUTTER.

Wash and pick the parsley, very carefully, boil it ten minutes with a tea-spoonful of salt, in a little water, drain it, and bruise it to a pulp, then mix it by degrees with about half a pint of melted butter.

N. B. Sauces of fennel, chervil, basil, tarragon, burnet, cress, &c. may be made in the same way.

ANCHOVY SAUCE.

Pound three anchovies in a mortar with a bit of butter, rub it through a hair-sieve, with the back of a wooden spoon, and stir it into half a pint of melted butter.

CAPER SAUCE FOR MUTTON.

To a quarter of a pint of melted butter put a table-spoon. ful of capers, and nearly as much vinegar.

GARLIC SAUCE.

Pound two cloves of garlic and proceed as with the anchovy sauce.

SHALOT SAUCE,

Is made with three or four shalots pounded, and done in the same way.

Browning,

Is nothing more than pounded white sugar, melted over a slow fire, with a little butter and water, till it begins to smoke and turn brown, then diluted with more water, till about the consistence of soy, and afterwards boiled, skimmed, strained, and preserved in well corked bottles.

ALL PLAIN SAUCES, should taste only of the articles from which they take their names.

In COMPOUND SAUCES the several ingredients should be so nicely proportioned that no particular flavour should predominate.

Soy, walnut-peels, burnt treacle, or sugar, cayenne pepper, or capsicums, chilies, vinegar, pickled herrings, anchovies, sardinias, or sprats, are the bases of almost all the sauces to be found in the shops.

Never season too highly your sauces, gravies,

or soups.

Cloves and allspice,-mace and nutmeg,marjorum, thyme, and savory,-leeks, onions, shalots, and garlic,-need not be mixed together in the same preparation, when either of them will supply the place of the others.

In short, Cooks now know, by experience, that a much less number of ingredients are sufficient to give a finer flavour to sauces, &c. than was formerly used; because, in this age of refined taste, we have learnt to combine the simply elegant with the purely nutritious. Salads.

These may be eaten at all seasons of the