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it was so ill-timed as to deprive his course of all appearance of independence, was also so ill-judged as to alienate from him the strength of his party. The South, then, seeing him thus committed to a war policy, would probably rather submit to the fresh outrages and injuries that the re-election of Lincoln will entail, confident, as they must be, that these, after all, must really strengthen their cause, than see the still formidable resources of the North in the hands of one so much more competent to direct them.

Meanwhile, the war must go on with its exhibition of constancy on the one side, and truculence on the other. And the onlookers, while very calm and measured in their admiration of the constancy, damning it with very faint praise, are extremely indulgent to the truculence, nay, in some cases, applaud

it. It is easy to understand why the majority of the people of the North approve the conduct of the war, if we admit sorrowfully that the base temptations of gain and of gratified rancour may be too strong for ordinary consciences. But it is not so easy to understand what possible interest people in England can have in joining the frenzied cry for Union. Strange to say, it is our Radical newspapers which now proclaim that it is permissible for any people to choose their form of government except the members of a democracythat the dissolution of a political partnership, which does not fulfil the ends for which it was instituted, is a crime to be appropriately visited with extermination — and to greet each new act of atrocity with shouts of applause, which may well be echoed in laughter by the devils.

Printed by William Blackwood & Sons, Edinburgh.

BLACKWOOD'S

EDINBURGH MAGAZINE.

No. DXC.

DECEMBER 1864.

VOL. XCVI.

A VISIT TO THE CITIES AND CAMPS OF THE CONFEDERATE
STATES, 1863-64.

Nov. 1864.

[To the Editor of 'Blackwood's Magazine.' SIR,-I have lately returned from America, after spending nearly a year in the Confederate States. During that period I visited all the principal cities and armies in the field, and was a witness of many interesting events, being present at Gettysburg, the bombardment of Charleston, Chicamauga, &c. Leaving the Confederacy in April, after a short stay at Nassau and Havana, I also visited the Northern States and Canada.

As my friends think that a little account of my travels which I have written might interest the public generally, I take the liberty of offering it to you for publication. The narrative is no doubt very defective, as I am quite unaccustomed to writing; but I believe that no one has had a more favourable opportunity of becoming thoroughly acquainted with the Southern Confederacy, under its present aspects, than myself.-I enclose my card, and am, Sir, your obedient servant,

A CAVALRY OFFICER.]

PART I.-CHAPTER I.

I CAME into this neighbourhood, which, by way of distinction, I will call a station on the Underground Railway from Yankeeland to Secessia, some time in the month of May 1863, and stopped at a road and river side inn, where I found four gentlemen, with whom I linked my fortunes for the nonce.

I could not tell you their names, even if I chose to do so; they all

VOL. XCVI.-NO. DXC.

go by false ones, as they have informed me, with a promise to disclose their true patronymics when we reach the other side. I cannot tell you where this neighbourhood is to be found, lest I should get my friends into trouble.

The one of them of whom I see most, and with whom I cheerfully associate, is called the Major. He is very agreeable and well-informed,

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has travelled a great deal in his own country, and seems to know everybody. I believe him to be a Virginian country gentleman, who has been run off his plantation by the Yankees. Of course he hates them most cordially.

Two others are young Marylanders going to join the army; and the fourth is, I think, going to run the blockade for commercial purposes.

I brought the latest newspapers with me, which were immediately seized, and the Major read them aloud with amusing comments.

Most Northern newspapers make it a rule never to tell the truth if they can help it, and it requires a great deal of ingenuity and practice to interpret them correctly.

The Major did so, I thought, very successfully. The reading over, we took "a drink" all round, according to the custom of the country. Conversation ensued, and it was late before we retired; the Major and the two soldiers to a deserted church near at hand, and the commercial blockade-runner and myself to our beds at the inn.

The next morning the Major pumped me a little, and finding me, I suppose," all right," he promised me his protection and services, for which I was very grateful, and indeed they proved invaluable in the sequel. I found the day tediously long, as we got up soon after daylight, and the Major left after breakfast to make some arrangement for obtaining a boat to cross the water. He returned in the evening, having purchased a boat, in which we shall embark as soon as the weather permits. I had to shut myself up in my room for some time during the day, as a Federal officer came to the inn to look at our landlord's whisky, and see that he had not too much of it rather a strange piece of duty, I thought, for a commissioned army officer. I understand that innkeepers are not allowed to keep more than a certain store of whisky, for fear they should sell it to the rebels

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over the water, and thereby “aid and comfort" them. This is a very out-of-the-way place. Fancy in this "Excelsior" "go-ahead" country your being seven or eight miles from the nearest post-office, and even there the post coming in only once a-week!

Still we thought ourselves not safe from observation, and "concluded" to part company, and lie about amongst the farmers and planters in the neighbourhood whilst making our preparations. I stuck to the Major, and we have been living at different houses with all sorts of people ever since.

They are all kind, hospitable, good fellows, a little depressed by the bad times, and at being obliged to keep their political sentiments entirely to themselves; for I need not say that in this part of the world all are violent Secessionists, and have forfeited all their political rights, as they will not take an oath of allegiance to the administration. They run no small risk in harbouring us too. If found out, it would go very hard with their persons, and their estates would almost certainly be confiscated. Only a few days ago, the family of a gentleman of large property in Maryland entertained two relations, soldiers in the Southern army, at their house during the absence of the owner himself. They were found out; the gentleman, who knew nothing of the matter, was sent to Fort Warren; his property was confiscated, and the ladies of the family were sent South without being allowed to take anything with them.*

Yet I never discovered the slightest hesitation on the part of the sturdy planters and farmers down here as to receiving us into their houses, and giving us the best entertainment they could afford.

This kind of life is very instructive and entertaining, as far as giving one a thorough insight into the American mode of living in the country; but it is rather hard work to get up at daylight every morn

They subsequently earned their living by needlework at Gordonsville.

ing, and breakfast at half-past four or five. During the day-time we occupy ourselves with walking or riding, or boating and fishing, or we visit a neighbour who invites us to make his house our next quarters. We never stop more than two nights at the same place.

Dinner is generally before twelve, and by nine in the evening we are in bed and asleep. There is always a great profusion at every meal of salt meat, fish, terrapins, hot cakes, eggs, bacon, butter, &c.; but fresh meat is very rare. I do not believe that a butcher exists nearer than the county town, twenty miles off. There are no markets anywhere except in large cities-not even in the county town, where I spent two days before I came to this part of the country.

A company of Federal soldiers was stationed there, but the "citizens" are all ardently Southern in their sentiments.

I sat one evening with a party of them before the door of the hotel, and they were talking red-hot "Secesh" politics. All regretted that the American colonies had ever separated from England; and though they professed to admire Washington personally, yet they heartily wished he had never been born. One went so far as to d-Christopher Columbus-" What business on earth," he said, "had he to come and discover this God-forsaken country?"

"Yes, sir," said another, addressing himself to me, "it was a Yankee trick, sir: they cheated us, as they have done ever since. We

didn't want to quarrel with England, but they did, because they had been kicked out of the country, with their Mayflower and their Puritans. D—— them, I wish they'd all been drowned at the bottom of the sea. And they didn't want to fight, sir; Yankees never do, sir; and we Southerners, like fools, went and fought it out for them, just as they're making them Dutch and Irishmen fight for them now, sir! No Yankee is ever killed in battle, sir-not

at least to speak of," he added, in modification of this rather untenable proposition.

I believe I added to the geographical knowledge of many persons there, by explaining to them the relative position of Vienna and Berlin, dissipating the idea of Prussia being governed by an emperor, &c. &c. At the same time, I have myself learnt several "facts" of which I was previously ignorant.

It seems that the Austrian FieldMarshal Giulay, after losing the battle of Magenta, was cashiered, and then re-entered the army as a private soldier, and was killed at Solferino fighting like a hero.

There was once a famine threatening to break out amongst the tailors of Paris in consequence of want of work. Upon this the Emperor Louis Napoleon suddenly appeared in a totally new and original costume, and all the fashionable young men of Paris following his example, the tailors got plenty to do, and were saved. I made great friends with several of the unsophisticated natives of that quaint little county town; and one of them said to me as we shook hands at parting-"I hope, sir, when you are here again, I'll see you at the jail."

I suppose I looked rather startled at his suggesting such a contingency, which, under the circumstances, was not quite an improbable one; for he then added in explanation that he himself was the guardian of that county institution: "I am the jailer, you know, sir." He seemed to be a very intelligent fellow, and I hope will live to be a judge.

I mentioned before that there are no markets in this country, except in large cities; but they have a substitute for them in the shape of periodical meetings of planters and farmers in fixed places on stated days. Such a reunion takes place weekly at -; and thither I betook myself one day, having ascertained that there would be none but "right" people about.

A long line of one-horse buggies and a good many saddle-horses were fastened up to the stake-fences on one side of the road, and their owners were at the store or the wayside-inn, or walking about, buying and selling, and bargaining or talking (politics, of course), orand that very frequently-" taking a drink." This national custom never takes a solitary form, nor is it indulged in for the purpose of satisfying your thirst. To take a drink with any one, is to accept or proffer a compliment; to refuse one would give grave offence.

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Your friend takes you to the bar, and the "liquor" is concocted. Probably several of your friend's friends are there. "Mr So-and-so, will you join us? Mr So-and-so, allow me to introduce you to my friend, Mr Blank.” "Mr Blank, I am very happy to meet you, sir” (an American always repeats your name, and treasures it up in his memory); "I hope you are in good health, Mr Blank." You go through the ceremony with all the friends, and in the mean time the drink is ready. Then you bow all round, saying, "My regards, gentlemen," and swallow it gravely, pretending to like it, and trying not to make a grimace. Of course all the drinks here are made of very bad whisky; and I did think it very nasty at first, but one gets used to everything.

After spending nearly a fortnight in this neighbourhood, the wind and weather suddenly became favourable, and it was determined that we should be off at dark.

There was no time to lose. It was five o'clock, and we had to collect our party, which had been increased by two gentlemen from Washington (father and son) and a young doctor. However, by ten o'clock we were on board our little boat, and were fairly off.

We passed one guardship without being perceived, and nothing disturbed us till near daylight. As it dawned, a big dark object suddenly loomed up in the distance. Nearer

and nearer it came straight towards us. We strained our eyes looking through the twilight. Could it be? Yes, it was yes, it was certainlythere could be no mistake-it was a gunboat. I was excessively disgusted: if she saw us we were lost-Fort Lafayette instead of a campaign with Lee. Horrible thought!

Still she came nearer and nearer, whilst we scudded away as fast as we could. But what chance had our little boat against steam? Bigger and bigger the monster became, till hope dawned within us as we saw her swing round and turn her black broadside towards us. She had not perceived our little cockleshell. Away she steamed in an opposite direction, and as her ugly black hulk gradually receded, and began to look smaller and smaller in the distance, we recovered our spirits and laughed at our “scare.” The Major proposed "a drink," and I thought the whisky this time really delicious.

We ran safely into a little creek on the Virginia shore, and then we soon discovered that it was all for the best that we had been detained so long. We landed in the midst of a deserted Yankee camp, and its occupants had only left this part of the country two days before, after having dispossessed the inhabitants of all the property they could lay their hands on.

Negroes, horses, mules, cattle, had been carried off; corn and hay, and even agricultural implements, had been burnt and destroyed. The poor people were in a state of despair.

This part of the country, I must remark, is entirely removed from the seat of war, and the Yankee raid had been made solely for the purpose of plundering and destroying the property of the poor unoffending inhabitants.

Landed in this desolate place, it is hard to say what we all should have done without the Major; but he, who knew everybody, of course was acquainted with the principal proprietor in the neighbourhood,

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