the middle strand y under one of the strands of the standing part having previously made the necessary opening with the marlinespike and pull taut, getting what is shown in (b). Push the strand x from behind, and under the strand on the standing part next above that under which the middle strand y was passed, so that it will come out where y went in, getting what is shown in (c); then pass the third strand & under the remaining free strand in the standing part, next to the one under which y was passed, getting (d). Pull the strands taut, and from each cut out one-third of the yarns; pass each remaining two-thirds over the adjoining strand of the rope, and then through under the next, as in the short splice; then cut off onehalf of the yarns, and tuck the other half under its corresponding strand for the third time; give it a good stretching, cut off the ends, and thus complete the splice as shown in (e). In four-stranded ropes, the short and long splice are made essentially the same. In the eye splice, the first strand is tucked under two strands of the rope, the second tucking being done exactly as in the three-stranded rope. (a) FIG. 26 75. Chain Splice. To make a chain splice, unlay the strands of the rope and reeve two of them through the end link. Then unlay the third strand for about the distance shown, and in its place lay one of the other strands, the same as in making the long splice. Make an overhand knot and dispose of the ends in the usual way. Dispose of the third strand x, Fig. 26 (a), one of the two reeved through the link, as when making the eye splice, by tucking near the link. Cut off the ends, and the splice is complete as shown in (b). This is a very neat and strong splice, and can be used with advantage in connection with chains that are tailed, or lengthened, with a rope that has to pass through sheaves or places that do not allow any increase of diameter in the rope. 76. Splicing in Wire.-When making a long splice in wire rope, the same principles are followed as in splicing fiber ropes. The strands are unlaid, interlaced, and each placed snugly in the groove made by unlaying the opposing strand when the ends are tucked away in such manner as to follow the lay of the rope. Before unlaying the strands, it is advisable always to put on a good seizing at the extremities of the intended splice in order to prevent the rope from untwisting farther than is desired. The length of the splice depends, of course, on the size of the rope. When unlaying the strands, care must be taken to do so without taking out the turn. The strands may also be unlaid in pairs and singled up when married. The hemp heart is cut out close to where seizings are applied. Before tucking away the ends, each pair should be approximately at equal distances from one another, as shown in Fig. 27 (a). 77. The beginning of an eye splice in wire is shown in Fig. 27 (b). When the size of the eye is fixed, a seizing is put on as shown; then the standing part opened somewhat at the place where the tucking is to be done, by giving the rope a certain amount of twist. This will render the tucking comparatively easy. When tucking, have three strands on top and three strands underneath the standing part (assuming that the splicing is done horizontally), and dispose of them in such manner that each strand will come out in consecutive order, or as shown in Fig. 27 (c). It does not matter under how many strands (one or two) on the main rope they pass as long as they come out in their proper lay. The strands are now tucked once or twice, taking care not to make the tucks too short, or the splice will be a lumpy one. Then the splice is hammered with a wooden mallet and the ends trimmed off snugly. The short splice is made in the same way as the eye splice. 78. Whipping a Rope.-Whenever a rope is cut to its required length the ends should at once be whipped to prevent the strands from fagging out. Nothing looks as bad about the deck as rope with ends resembling the mane of a mule duc to lack of proper whipping. This is true of hawsers as well as the lacings of awnings; in fact, to any kind and size of cordage. FIG. 28 (a) FIG. 29 (b) To whip a rope the end a, Fig. 28, of the whipping stuff (twine or yarn) is placed in the lay of the rope pointing toward the end of the rope; a few turns is then passed around the rope, binding the end of the whipping. Then laying the other end b on the turns already passed, pointing downwards, the remainder of the bight thus formed is passed around the strands and hauling it through the end part b is cut off snugly. 79. Wall Knot.-If no available whipping stuff is at hand what is known as a wall knot may be made by interjoining the strands, as shown in Fig. 29 (a). When the ends are drawn taut the finished knot will appear as in (b), holding the strands firmly together and preventing the rope from fagging. This knot is useful also in cases where it is required to prevent the rope from unreeving. BENDS AND HITCHES 80. In Figs. 30, 31, and 32 are shown a number of useful bends and hitches. The manner in which these bends are made will be evident from an inspection of the illustrations, hence only a few explanatory remarks concerning the use to which some of them are put will be needed. The reef knot, shown in Fig. 30, is the best, simplest, and most used method of connecting the ends of two ropes, smallsized cordage. The granny knot is undesirable and unprofessional in every respect; it slips easily and is hard to untie. For the purpose of attaching two ropes of different size, the single or double sheet bend should be used. The double carrick bend is sometimes used for bending two hawsers together. The bowline is perhaps the most useful bend ever invented; it can be applied in various ways, from hoisting a man aloft to the bending together of two hawsers. To make it, the end of the rope is taken in the right hand and the standing part in the left and the end laid over the standing part. Then using the standing part a turn, or loop, is made around the end and the latter passed over and around the standing part and back through the bight again, thus completing the knot. The figure-of-eight knot turned in a rope will prevent it from unreeving. 81. In Fig. 31 are shown a few methods of applying a rope to a hook. The cross-hitch is used for a sling or strap when the rope spreads away to its load; this hitch prevents the sling from slipping in the hook in case the load comes in contact with some obstruction while being hoisted. The Blackwall hitch should be made with the end twice around the hook as shown, except for very light loads; experience has proved this to be the safest way, as with only one turn the end is liable to creep when subjected to a heavy strain, |