made up into a conserve with almond-paste. By the aid of copious draughts of water we contrived to wash down enough to save appearances, and to escape the imputation of barbarous rudeness.

The market, much frequented by traders from the interior, was in the city, but in summer, for better ventilation, is held in the open space without. Though the gardens were more choked with sand than those of Ghardaïa, yet they were quite as extensive, and necessity had impelled the inhabitants to terrace the hillsides, which were covered with artificial soil, carried up, and planted with barley and pumpkins. Before we bid adieu there was a conference among the elders, and presently two of them rushed off, returning speedily with a negro, who bore three fowls and a dozen eggs, which we should have hurt their feelings by declining, and which Omar complacently stowed away in his insatiate pannier. The polite and friendly Kadi of Beni Isguen insisted on accompanying us, belated as he must necessarily be, the whole way to our quarters.

We afterwards visited Bounoura, beyond Mellika, the smallest city of the confederation, returning only one member to the national djemmâa. Its palm-groves are poor and straggling; but this decayed borough has seen better days, for the top of its hill is occupied by a mass of ruins, all the old town, except the crowning mosque-tower, having crumbled away. It looks like a collection of houses pitched upon boulders, which have been rolled together into a heap, and surrounded by a wall. Even the upper side of its market-place is faced by native rock, which forms an overhanging precipice. I doubt whether it possesses even a guest-house, for our complimentary entertainment of eggs and dates was

spread on a mat and carpet in the centre of the

square.

The M'zab once possessed an eighth city, Metlili, which is reached by a dry ravine, about eight leagues S.W. of Beni Isguen. It is an extensive oasis with walls like the rest, but was conquered some centuries back by the Arabs of the Chaamba tribe, the most lawless and predatory of the clans of the Sahara. These Amalekites have taken advantage of houses built, wells digged, and palm-trees planted to their hand, and have become dwellers in a city, which is now the capital of their widely extended territory, and, unlike Waregla and N'goussa, has no Gætulian or Berber population. The language, however, is neither Arabic, Kabyle, nor M'zab, but probably a corrupt dialect of the Kabyle or Berber tongue.

The town is built exactly like Bounoura on the side of a hill, with its two tall mosque-towers, the upper one fast crumbling to decay. The streets are narrow and filthy; and the squalor of all around presents a striking contrast to the neatness and cleanliness of the M'zab. Half the houses are in ruins, and the owners seem to want the energy to repair them. Yet the palm-groves are good and extensive, and with proper care would surpass those of any M'zab city. The inhabitants depend chiefly upon the date-trade for subsistence, and, unlike their neighbours, have no caravans. The place does not repay a visit, and the character of the people is so treacherous and inhospitable that the traveller is ill-advised who needlessly ventures among the Chaamba. Their government is after the Arab fashion, two sheiks holding an uncertain and often disputed authority over two septs.

Having explored the whole of the neighbouring terri

tory, we would not further wear out our welcome. Our intention of proceeding to Guerrara having been announced, old Bouhammed, the Kadi of Mellika, and Bayou of Beni Isguen appeared early the following morning to pay their respects. Bayou had brought with him an Arab bit for my " Gazelle " as a parting gift. A more acceptable present could not have been devised; for "Gazelle" despised a French snaffle, and, when he became excited, my efforts to hold him were impotent. The Arab bit consists of a stout curb; but in lieu of a chain, a strong iron ring plays on a swivel attached to the centre of the bit. This ring is slipped over the lower jaw of the horse when the bit is put into his mouth, and gives a powerful leverage to the bridle. No horse can possibly resist its force, and, feeling its power, seldom attempts a second struggle. The rider, too, soon learns the value of a light hand, for the slightest weight on his rein brings his horse on its haunches.

Bayou declined tobacco with a knowing wink, evidently afraid of being seen, but, on being questioned, hinted that he would not refuse a specimen of English silk. I fortunately had a handsome India handkerchief ready for him. The old Kadi of Mellika accepted on the sly a gift of a pound of tobacco and half a pound of snuff, and reiterated his promise to assist me in my search for eggs and birds. They both consented to stay to breakfast off their own fowls and eggs. Their supplies were opportune, as the expected kouskousou never arrived, and out of compliment to us the chiefs made heroic and not altogether unsuccessful attempts to use forks and spoons. We wound up with dates and apologies, coffee and ditto, and Bayou bid us a hearty farewell as he sprang upon his noble charger. He was

a fine, open-faced, open-hearted fellow, one of nature's soldiers every inch.

In the evening our own kadi, who had commenced the day by a gift of a water-melon before we were astir, came in to pay his farewell visit of ceremony and take his forbidden luxury of a cup of coffee. A negro followed him bearing a huge basket of the finest dates, and eighteen flat loaves of barley bread, as a supply for our journey. He requested a letter to certify that we had been satisfied with our entertainment, and demurely smiled as I folded it in another silk handkerchief. We then gave him our cards and addresses, that the event of our visit might be duly enrolled in the national history.

CHAPTER XI.

Departure from Ghardaïa - The desert again-Wed N'ça -Vegetation in the wilderness Effects of moisture- Ostriches-AntelopeAn assault-Achmed's opinion of his race-Guerrara - Full moon -Festivities- Intestine warfare Use of the arch-Tombs of the saints-Weddings- Dress - Demands on a hakeem - A traveller from Timbuctoo R'dames- Touat Achmed's rebellion Amusing trial - The oldest inhabitant - Farewell to the M'zab.

THE Combined effects of toothache and a zickar outside did not predispose to early rising, but at 4 A.M. we were in the square, the camels loaded, my lizard and palm-mice ensconced in the cages Omar had been for two days devising for their use, and Achmed, mounted on the waterskins, sent on in charge of the caravan. We turned back to our courtyard for coffee in company with the worthy kadi and my ratcatching friend.

Two hours' ride down the valley of the M'zab brought us abreast of El At'f, where we were met by a deputation of the ancients, with a present of dates and eggs, and a request we would remain a day or two with them. We were obliged to decline their proffered hospitality, when they expressed their earnest hope that we would report favourably of them to the English government. It was in vain to repeat our assurances that we had no official character. For what other purpose, asked they, could we choose to travel in such a poor country? They desired us to tell our countrymen that they would always find the M'zab honest traders, and punctual in payment. Eagerly did they inquire if there were any chance of their obtaining English cottons and cutlery, two articles from which they complained they have been entirely debarred ever