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Mackay, whose husband was known in Paris as Bonanza," on account of his immense wealth. He is a large owner in the gold mines of California. The farewell banquet was provided by a wealthy banker, whose generosity left nothing to be supplied for the occasion.

The United States Government sent the steamer Vandalia to France for General Grant's use while he remained abroad. She arrived at Ville-Franchè on the thirteenth day of December, when, as soon as he could complete his arrangements, Grant and his family embarked for Naples.

XXV.

TO THE ORIENT.

ENERAL GRANT was in Naples on the 18th of December. He was more curious to visit Vesuvius than he was to see the ancient city. So arrangements were made early for a trip up the burning mountain. And here the General was outgeneraled for once in his life. Knowing that an army of beggars would surround him as he was never surrounded on the field of battle, he provided himself with a quantity of small coin with which to satisfy this beggarly element. At the base of Vesuvius, where they mounted donkeys for the ascent, the beggars were on hand. The General threw down several pieces of coin, when there followed such a scramble as he had never witnessed,—not even among office-seekers. He threw down more coin, and the numbers and tumult doubled. Instead of satisfying the importunate crowd, their determination to have more was only strengthened. They became terribly in earnest. He scattered more coin; and the scramblers literally swarmed, tumbling over each other, and yelling like so many cats in a fight. It looked very much as if they intended to carry the General by storm instead of by siege. He

saw that he had made a grave mistake. More grape and canister would satisfy ordinary assailants, but fighting a battle with coin at the base of Vesuvius with Italian beggars was quite another affair. The more coin, the more beggars. The more effort to satisfy, the greater the scramble. General Grant was forced to retreat and change his tactics. But he won the day finally, and accomplished his purpose, as he was wont to do. He ascended Vesuvius and

returned, having added never to be forgotten.

another day's experience

He visited Pompeii, and wandered about among its marvellous ruins. Here he found a guide who spoke English.

"I was General Sheridan's guide when he visited Pompeii," he informed Grant. "I am a soldier, too," he added, appearing to understand all about General Grant.

A

A singular custom prevails here with the Italian authorities. When a great man from abroad visits Pompeii, hey order a house dug open in honor of their guest, and afterwards call it by his name. house was dug open for Grant; but nothing except a few ornaments and a loaf of bread wrapped in a cloth was discovered. The bread was stale enough for even a chronic dyspeptic, having been baked nearly two thousand years ago.

"We'll open another house for you," suggested the guide, who seemed to be disappointed that no bonics of human beings were discovered.

"I prefer to excavate a beefsteak," replied an officer of the Vandalia, who was exceedingly hungry.

The company decided for the beefsteak instead of more ruins.

From Naples General Grant proceeded to Palermo, where he arrived in the midst of Christmas festivities. The officers of the Vandalia served a Christmas dinner on board the ship in true American style. Everything about it was home-like. Grant enjoyed it hugely, surrounded as he was by his own countrymen. The vessel was decorated with evergreens, and the stars and stripes made conspicuous. Mr. Young, the correspondent who accompanied the General, said of the occasion:

"As the General sat under the green boughs of the Christmas decorations, the centre of our merry company, it seemed as if he were as young as any of the mess a much younger man by far than our junior Dannenhower, who looks grave and serious. enough to command all the fleets in the world. Mrs. Grant was in capital health and spirits, and quite enchanted the mess by telling them, in the earliest hour of the conversation, that she already felt when she came back to the Vandalia from some errand on shore as if she were coming home. I wish I could lift the veil far enongh to show you how much the kind, considerate, ever-womanly and ever-cheerful nature of Mrs. Grant has won upon us all; but I must not invade the privacy of the domestic circle. She was the queen of the feast, and we gave her queenly honor."

From Palermo to Malta, and thence to the Orient, was Grant's programme. He reached the land of the Pharaohs and disembarked at Alexan

dria, where the authorities had made preparations for his arrival.

The American consul, vice-consul, and governor, together with all the missionaries, came on board to pay their respects, before the party landed. According to an Egyptian custom, the number of guns fired is determined by the official rank of the honored guest, so that on this occasion the greatest number of guns were fired, creating such a noise that the company were forced to wait until cannon ceased to thunder, before conversation could be heard. The Governor, in the name of the Khedive, addressed General Grant, and offered him the use of a palace in Cairo and a steamer to take him up the Nile.

In the afternoon of the same day, Grant returned the official visit. On going ashore, another round of firing took place, followed by loud huzzas from the crews of all the vessels in port, including that of the Vandalia. A guard of honor took possession of him, and conducted him to the Pasha's palace, where a formal reception took place.

In the evening, the General and Mrs. Grant dined with the vice-consul, where they met Henry M. Stanley the African traveler. Stanley had completed his travels across the "Dark Continent," and was on his way back to England. A toast was given to him, and he replied in quite a lengthy speech, closing by saying,

"It is the proudest moment of my life to find myself beside the distinguished guest from the United States."

The Government provided him with a special