228 CHAPTER XVII. THE TATAR GALLOP. On the 23rd November I got into the saddle. The morning opened in a tempest on the Black Sea, to which I was turning my back; it was tossed to and fro in foamy fury, agitated by one of those frightful storms, the result of " the elemental strife" of this part of the world. The ominous cloud, about the size of a man's hand, soon spread over the horizon, and seemed to awake the winds, which threatened destruction to all opposing objects. It was a magnificent sight, and I waited some time in hopes that the clouds would exhaust themselves, and that there would be some chance of a tranquil atmosphere. But the rain continued to fall, the horses were ready, the burly Tatar became impatient, so we started. On climbing the paved hills (for such they literally are) which bound the town of Trebisonde, we found them cut into flights of stairs, over which the horses climb with wonderful ease. The ground was partially covered with snow, and the wind blew from every point of the compass. I had agreed with the Tatar to take me about seven hundred miles to Tabreez, which he was to do in as many days, with five horses; one for the "surrigee," or guide, who takes the post horses from one station to another, such stations being from twenty to thirty miles apart, according to the villages; the Tatar's horse; my own; one baggage, and one kitchen horse, to carry pans, kettles, provisions, &c. The provisions consisted principally of coffee, tea, sugar, rice, &c.; the Tatar undertaking for bread, fowls, eggs, yourt," or sour milk. 66 It is, however, precarious to trust too much to the purveyor, for the Tatars not only pay nothing to the villagers where they levy, but often tax them in coin, "for the skin of their teeth," as they call it. My bargain with him was two thousand five hundred Turkish piastres, or about twenty-five pounds sterling, with a "bakshish," or present, on arrival, provided I was satisfied with his conduct. This bargain I made through my interpreter, the Tatar not speaking Persian; so that not a word of understanding existed between us beyond the indispensable tchibook and tobacco. In such travel dilemmas, and where you commit yourself to the care of an entire stranger who may lead you into ambush, or betray you to the Koords, it is better to employ a government Tatar, his character and credit being at stake for your safe conduct; and if he forfeits these he loses all future employ. These Tatars are generally bulky men ; they ride small horses, and with a weight of tackling quite oppressive to the little animals, who shake themselves beneath their load, and run with an ambling pace more like that of a dog than a horse, when out of the gallop. I should observe that the Tatar is furnished with a "teskeret," "teskeret," or order from the Pasha, to supply him with the required number of horses at the post-houses, an establishment much better • See Appendix. |