solving never again to set foot within a house where I had been so egregiously cheated. Just before I stept into the carriage, Madame Pollet made her appearance, and exclaimed, "Etes vous content, Monsieur? Oui, Madame, j'en ai eu tout mon soul." I promised to let my countrymen know what good cheer they might meet with at her house, not forgetting the reasonableness of her charges. I have now fulfilled my promise. The carriage drove from the gate, and after a few moments growling, I resolved to starve two days, to compensate for the benevolence of the amiable Madame Pollet.

LETTER

LETTER VI.

Journey to Chantilly, and Description of that

Place.

HEBECOURT was the next post town at which we arrived; it is only five miles and an half distant from Amiens; we found here another church consecrated to Reason. The cap of liberty was very appropriately placed on the top of the weather-cock, and thus veered about with every different gust of wind. Over the door of the church, the words " Temple de la Raison," were inscribed in large characters.

Flers, at the distance of a post and an half from Hebecourt, was the next place at which we changed horses, and thence we proceeded to Breteuil, another post and an half, where we dined, or rather starved, at the Hotel de l'Ange, the corner of the market-place, so that my economical plan on leaving Amiens was enforced by dire necessity. Our distress should not, however, induce you to go to any other house. This was unquestionably the best in the town, people are uncommonly civil and attentive; they made a thousand apologies for the wretched fare they gave us, and hoped they should be able to entertain us better on our return. The fact is,

and the

there

there was a fair at Breteuil on the day of our arrival, and the crowds of country people who had flocked into the town had completely demolished every vestige of provision. Madame Petigny-Despeaux, our hostess, made grievous complaints against the Lion D'Or at Amiens; she stated that the English minister, (Mr. Jackson, I suppose) when on his route to Paris, passed a night there, and was charged for a petit souper forty-six louis, or pounds sterling.

After dinner, or rather after the plates were removed from the table, we walked about the fair. There was a great concourse of country people, but no noise nor disorder, like at an English fair. The women were in their holiday clothes, without hats or bonnets, and with close caps. The men were also decently attired, but with cocked hats, which gave them a most puritanical appearance. I did not see a single person intoxicated, nor was there much shew of articles of trade. There were a great number of Merry Andrews, Quack Doctors, and Puppetshews, but the booths were not well arranged, nor with that neatness which is always visible at a fair in our country.

About a mile and an half beyond Breteuil, and on the right of the road, there stands the most elegant farm-house I ever beheld, in the center of an extensive farm, which was in a very capital state of cultivation. All the fields proved that

more

more than ordinary care had been given to every department of this farm. Elegance and plenty evidently flourished in the midst of the labours of agriculture. Indeed, during the greater part of our journey from Amiens to this place, we observed lands in much better order, and farmhouses more neat and comfortable, than any we had hitherto seen in France; the country is agreeably diversified, and woods appear in every direction. Upon inquiry, I learnt that the owner of the pretty farm I have just mentioned, is extremely rich, and very expert in his profession; and onè of the proofs which they gave us of his wealth, consisted in his being proprietor of two windmills on the left of the high road.

From this place, the, country becomes flat and less interesting, and the soil is chalky. At Wavigny, a post and an half from Breteuil, we changed horses, whence we continued our journey to St. Just, about six miles further, and afterwards to Clermont, nearly twelve miles distant from the last post. The road from Breteuil to Clermont is paved, and in excellent order; the country assumes a more pleasing and fertile aspect; and the hills and woods are more frequent. A little before we entered Clermont, are the grounds and plantations of the Duke of Fitzjames. The elegant mansion-house was completely destroyed by the revolutionists, and is at this time an heap of ruins; but the name of the

duke

duke has been lately erased from the list of emigrants, and all his estates restored to him. He is now in Paris, making the necessary arrangements for his future life; and it is hoped that this beautiful spot, returned to its ancient master, will flourish once more, and compensate him for his losses and long proscription.

At Clermont there is a manufactory of painted linens, and the environs of the town are gay and picturesque; the neighbouring hills afford several pleasing landscapes, and the culture of the vine, which we perceived for the first time, gave a charming variety to the scenery. To the left, at about a quarter of a mile distant from the road, is Liancourt, the magnificent seat of the Duke de la Rochefoucauld. This nobleman, so well known for his useful writings on agricultural subjects, and for his Travels in North America, has returned to his native country, and is improving as well as embellishing his patrimonial estate.

The cultivation in this part is much more diversified than in the more northern department through which we travelled. Besides the vineyards, there are fields of lucerne, wheat, clover and corn, and a great quantity of fruit trees; there are several inclosures, and the hedging is better distributed than any we had yet seen.

Lingueville, the next post town, is only six miles from Clermont, from which we had a most delightful ride through the extensive park of Chantilly.