COAST FROM ST. ANDREW SOUND TO CUMBERLAND SOUND (Chart 1242) This stretch of coast line, extending in a southerly direction for 1534 miles, is formed by the shores of Little Cumberland and Cumberland Islands. These two islands are separated only by stretch of marsh and a narrow winding creek and appear as one from seaward. Little Cumberland Island forms the southern boundary of St. Andrew Sound. Its north end is heavily wooded, has a bluff appearance, and is marked by an unused lighthouse tower. Cumberland Island is almost entirely covered by woods, though somewhat marshy to the westward, where it is separated from the main land by extensive marshes, through which flow the waters of Cumberland and Brickhill Rivers, and Cumberland Sound. Its extreme southern point, forming the north side of the entrance to Cumberland Sound, shows a large clump of heavy trees with several conspicuous sand hills. To the northward of this there is a stretch of marsh a mile in width, through which flows Beach Creek. There are several buildings and water tanks which are conspicuous. The entire outer coast line of the island shows a broad white sana beach backed by an almost continuous range of sand hills, and those by dense woods. For about 9 miles from the entrance to St. Andrew Sound this coast is bordered by dangerous shoals making off 3 to 5 miles. For the rest of the distance to the entrance of Cumberland Sound 3 fathoms (5.5 m) may be taken within 1 mile of the beach, excepting at the entrance. CUMBERLAND SOUND AND ST. MARYS ENTRANCE (Chart 453) Cumberland Sound and St. Marys entrance are 16 miles southward of St. Andrew Sound and 19 miles northward of St. Johns River. Amelia Island Lighthouse is about 2 miles southward of the entrance. A standpipe in Fernandina and a water tank on Cumberland Island, 134 miles above its south end, are also prominent. The sound extends northward and, connecting with Cumberland River, forms an inland passage to St. Andrew Sound. It is also the approach to the city of Fernandina and the town of St. Marys. The entrance, which is about 1 mile wide, has been improved by two jetties, which extend from the shore for a distance of 3 miles on the north side and 11⁄2 miles on the south side. The bar, just outside of and between the jetties, has a buoyed channel which, in 1935, had a controlling depth of 24 feet (7.3 m). A depth of 18 feet (5.5 m) was found 110 yards south of the range and south of buoy no. 6. The channel between the jetties is subject to frequent changes, according to information received from the local pilots. In periods of spring tides, they claim, the currents scour out the channel, but the shoals build up again in neap tides. Tiger Island Range should not be used more than a mile east of the jetty entrance, except with local knowledge, as no dredging has been done on this part of the channel range for some time. The CUMBERLAND SOUND AND ST. MARYS ENTRANCE 209 least depth across the bar on the range is 19 feet (5.8 m). Ships now pass around the outer bar and approach the jetties from the north, passing north of Fernandina Lighted Bell Buoy 3 F, and east of Fernandina Jetty Lighted Whistle Buoy 2. The controlling depth on this approach in 1935 was 34 feet (10.4 m). а Lighter draft vessels bound south take the short cut across the bar, avoiding the 13-foot (4.0 m) shoal midway between the ends of the jetties. A shoal, with a least depth of 11 feet (3.4 m), makes out more than a mile southeast from the outer end of the south jetty. Vessels of greater draft than about 15 feet (4.5 m) are advised to take a pilot. Tides. The mean range of the tide at the entrance and at Fernandina is about 6 feet (1.8 m). High and low waters occur about 25 minutes later than at Mayport, daily predictions for which are given in the Tide Tables for the Atlantic Ocean. The tidal currents at the entrance have considerable velocity and are dangerous at times, especially on the flood. Local pilots state that the conditions are about as follows: Between the bell buoy and the end of the north jetty the flood current sets southwestward and with northeasterly winds set strongly in a direction about southsouthwest. Under the worst conditions of the flood on spring tides and a northeast gale the velocity near the end of the north jetty is estimated to be as much as 5 knots at times. On the flood an eddy current sets out close along the inside of the north jetty. The ebb current appears to set directly out across the bar. In the present position of the channel, near the north jetty, the worst conditions for entering are on the flood with northeasterly winds, when vessels, especially long ones, are liable to strike the inside of the north jetty. Normally slack water occurs about 1 hour after high and low water at Mayport. With freshets in St. Marys River the ebb current may run from about high water until about one and one-half hours after low water. The Intracoastal Waterway passes through Cumberland Sound and Amelia River. Amelia Island Lighthouse, lat. 30°40′23′′ N., long. 81°26'34" W., is a white conical tower. The light is flashing white (flash 2.5 seconds, eclipse 7.5 seconds), 107 feet (32 m) above the water, and visible 16 miles. A red sector from 344 to 360° true covers shoal water in the vicinity of Nassau Sound. Beach Creek extends northward into Cumberland Island from a point just inside the entrance to Cumberland Sound. There is a controlling depth of 3 feet (0.9 m) to the landing at Dungeness. St. Marys River is a portion of the boundary between Georgia and Florida. The river empties into Cumberland Sound from westward and is its principal tributary. The settlements on the river have telephone communication, and there is railroad communication at St. Marys and Crandall. A gas boat from Fernandina makes frequent trips to points on the river to Kings Ferry. The principal shipping points for lumber are St. Marys, 4 miles above the mouth of the river; Crandall, 10 miles; and Kings Ferry, 32 miles. The Atlantic Coast Line Railroad bridge (closed) crosses the river 48 miles above the mouth. This bridge is 22 feet (6.7 m) above high water. The Seaboard Air Line Railway drawbridge (57-foot opening) crosses the river 20 miles above its mouth. St. Marys River is little used above St. Marys, and below St. Marys only by shrimp fishermen. Local pilots report that vessels loaded to 24 feet (7.3 m) can be taken at high water from St. Marys to sea. In 1935 the following controlling depths were reported by the local pilots: Mouth of St. Marys-- St. Marys to Kings Ferry_ 15 feet (4.6 m) 12 feet (3.7 m) 6 feet (1.8 m) 4 feet (1.2 m) St. Marys, population 732 in 1930, is a town located on the north bank of the St. Marys River, 4 miles above its mouth. It has rail, bus, telegraph, and telephone connections and is a lumber shipping point. A least depth of 15 feet (4.6 m) can be carried to the town at low water. Gasoline, fuel oil, and water can be obtained at the water front. Ordinary provisions are obtainable, also galley coal in limited quantities. There is a marine railway capable of hauling out boats of about 45 feet length and of about 42 feet draft. The town recommends itself as a haven for launches in southwesterly weather when it becomes rather disagreeable alongside the wharves at Fernandina. The wharves at St. Marys have not been maintained in good condition. There are depths of from 5 to 18 feet (1.5 to 5.5 m) at the face of the city wharf on St. Marys River. All the wharves in town (some of which were on the North River, which lies on the north side of the town and empties into St. Marys River a short distance below town) have both rail and highway or street connection. North River.-A draft of 8 feet (2.4 m) can be carried to the docks in North River at low tide. This depth can be carried an additional mile, then a draft of 5 feet (1.5 m) for an additional 5 miles, after which the controlling depth becomes 1 foot (0.3 m). Directions, St. Marys River.-Coming onto Tiger Island range, between the jetties at St. Marys entrance, follow the range on course 26012° true (W. % S. mag.) until abeam of Fort Clinch. Then head for St. Marys River Light 2 on a course of 302° true (NW. by W. 14 W. mag.) to a position 700 yards from the light. Steer a course of 265° true (W. 2 S. mag.), passing about 400 yards south of St. Marys River Light 2 and 150 yards off the point on the west side of the entrance to Jolly River. Then follow the south shore of St. Marys River at a distance of about 150 yards for 1 mile and come onto Long Reach range ahead on a course of 28412° true (WNW. 34 W. mag.). The controlling depth of 15 feet (4.6 m) to St. Marys is found on this range. Leaving the range, round the bend to southward and follow the east and south shores at a distance of about 150 yards around the next bend. With Town Point range closed astern steer 3372° true (NNW. 1 W. mag) and come up to the water front of St. Marys. Above St. Marys follow the ebb-tide bends. Devils Elbow range marks the dredged channel in the river about 2 miles above St. Marys. Vessels of about 10-foot (3.0 m) draft should have no difficulty in going as far as Kings Ferry on a rising tide. The river is very crooked; some of the turns are sharp. The mean rise and fall of tides is about 6 feet (1.8 m) at the entrance, 5 feet (1.5 m) at Crandall, 3 feet (0.9 m) at Kings Ferry, and 112 feet (0.4 m) at the Atlantic Coast Line Railroad bridge. Above the Seaboard Air Line Railway the water in St. Mary's River is fresh and is used by vessels. Amelia River enters the sound from southward just inside the entrance. The city of Fernandina is situated on the east bank about 2 miles above its mouth. Bell River enters Amelia River from westward opposite the city of Fernandina. The former river joins St. Marys River about 112 miles above the town of St. Marys and has a narrow and crooked channel. The controlling depth is 5 feet (1.5 m), found just south of Jolly River, and again at the entrance to St. Marys River. There are a number of small docks at Chester, all of which are in a dilapidated condition. In 1935 there was a depth of 2 feet (0.6 m) at mean low water at the face of the largest dock. Jolly River branches eastward from Bell River about 6 miles above the mouth of the latter and empties into Cumberland Sound at the mouth of St. Marys River. The controlling depth through Jolly River is 5 feet (1.5 m). Tiger Creek. A draft of 2 feet (0.6 m) can be carried across the bar into Tiger Creek from Cumberland Sound. From the western end of Little Tiger Island there is a controlling depth of 11 feet (3.4 m) for 12 miles into Tiger Basin. The basin bares at low water, but small boats can continue across the basin and enter Bell River about 1 mile east of Chester at high tide. Lanceford Creek.-There is a controlling depth of 11 feet (3.4 m) in Lanceford Creek to the docks about 3 miles west of Fernandina; just above here the creek widens into tidal flats which bare at low tide. Small boats can cross through Soap Creek from Lanceford Creek to Amelia River at high tide. Numerous mud flats and oyster beds, bare at low tide, are passed through. FERNANDINA (Chart 453) Fernandina, population 3,023 in 1930, is on the east bank of Amelia River, 2 miles southward of Cumberland Sound. It is a shipping port for fertilizer and naval stores. One railroad enters the city. About 25% miles above Fernandina is Kingsley Creek, through which the South Amelia River is entered; the latter river, extending southward to Nassau Sound, forms the section of the Intracoastal Waterway between the two sounds. Pilots for Fernandina and St. Marys are available and will come. out when called for. Their headquarters are at Old Fernandina. The usual procedure is to request their services by radio through the consignee. Pilotage is compulsory for certain vessels. Pilotage. The pilotage rates for the Cumberland Bar are as follows: Quarantine. The old quarantine station off Fort Clinch has been abandoned, and ships are now boarded in the harbor abreast the town. Anchorages.-There is good anchorage in the channel of Cumberland Sound and in the Amelia River up to the city of Fernandina. Wharves. Several of the old wharves in Fernandina are in ruins. There is only one wharf capable of handling seagoing vessels. The controlling depths alongside in 1935 were 19 feet (5.8 m) near the north end, 23 feet (7.0 m) at the middle, 12 feet (3.7 m) near the southern end, and the length 1,300 feet. It is equipped with mechanical devices for unloading bulk cargo at the rate of 600 tons per hour. There are numerous smaller wharves operated for the shrimp-fishing fleet, and gas boats in great numbers tie up to these wharves. Supplies. Water, gasoline, and oils can be had at the wharves. Provisions and some ship chandlery can be obtained here. Repairs. There are no facilities for repairs to vessels or heavy machinery. Jacksonville and Brunswick are the nearest places where vessels can be hauled out and where there are facilities for extensive repairs. Small boats of 50-foot length and 5-foot (1.5 m) draft can be hauled out at Fernandina, and gas-engine repairs can be made there. Towboats. Sailing vessels usually employ a towboat when crossing the bar or if bound up St. Marys River; towboats are to be had at Jacksonville or Brunswick. Storm warnings are displayed in Fernandina from a tower in the post-office yard. Hospital. The nearest marine hospital is at Savannah, Ga. DIRECTIONS, ST. MARYS ENTRANCE From northward. From a position about 2 miles southeast of Savannah Lightship make good a course of 20412° true (SSW. % W. mag.) for 79 miles, passing about 2 miles southeast of Sapelo |