ing lava can assume, were constantly in sight. I distinctly remember one point that had a strong resemblance to a spear-head, while another looked like the head of a human being. Each of these has a separate tradition.

From a high promontory, we gazed on Hanalei valley. The river Lumahi we crossed in a scow, but the other streams we were able to ford, tho sometimes the water came almost over the backs of our horses. The Warniho River was so deep as almost to compel the animals to swim. Dr. Crane, who rode one of the lowest horses, tried to do the circus act (ride on his knees) to keep his feet from getting wet. He did not cut a graceful figure with his horse floundering through the water almost over his back, and threatening to pitch his rider over his head at every step; but the doctor, like Mark Twain's Probate Judge of Humboldt County, did not complain. We crossed without any serious accident, and reached the Haena flat.

Drs. Goodhue and Crane, with Mrs. Goodhue, decided to wait on the shell-beach and gather shells, while the remainder of the party went on "to the jumping-off place." Mr. Deverill is a hard rider, and to keep up with him we dashed over streams and stones, up and down hills, and along slippery banks at the risk of necks of both riders

and steeds. The tough little island

ponies seem never to tire, and we sped on hour after hour without pausing to rest.

Mr. D., who assumed the rôle of guide and instructor, pointed out Makano Point, from the top of which the natives used to send off their fireworks. These mainly consisted of candle-nuts and pieces of light wood rich with rosin, so that when burning they would float off on the air. In the base of this great cliff are two caves. The first, Maniniholo, has an entrance large enough for five hundred people to stand in. It reaches farther back under the hill, with an arched roof so low that one is compelled to crawl to enter the next chamber. The second cave, Waikapalai, has at its entrance a pool of deep, clear water which extends far into the cavern, so that it can only be explored in a boat. A third cave, a mile up the coast, is called Waikanaloa. It is a vast subterranean chamber, with narrow corridors branching off into the unexplored grottoes of the mountains. We passed a lake of fresh water, literally filled with gold and silver fish, and beautiful red fishes, such as are found in aquariums.

Leaving the caves, we continued around the coast until we reached the vast palisades or high, inaccessible cliffs. Here were ladders arranged leading from cliff to cliff, and by mounting to the topmost ledge one may be able to walk half a mile farther along the narrow shelf, where he comes to a point beyond which

further progress without wings is utterly impossible. We had reached the "jumping-off place."

Having gone as far as we could, and pretty well worn ourselves out climbing the rocks, we remounted the horses and returned to where the remainder of the party had been left, and, with their shell treasures, wended our way back to the village.

CHAPTER XXIV

A DISGUSTED PARSON

WHILE at Waimea, arrangements had been made with Rev. Mr. Massey to come over to Koloa, and join our party in a contemplated journey to Wailua Falls. On our return from Hanalei, we found that he had reached Koloa during the afternoon, and was at the home of Miss Smith. As soon as he was apprised of our arrival he came over to the Goodhue cottage, and the evening was spent in discussing the wonders we had discovered on Kauai, and the wonders that still remained for us to view.

Next morning Mr. Farley was too much "used up” by his Hanalei journey to accompany us, and Dr. Goodhue declared he had too long neglected his patients; consequently we had to go without either. Our party was now narrowed down to Mrs. Goodhue, Rev. Massey, Dr. Crane, myself, Antone the Portuguese driver, and a tall awkward Kanaka for a guide, who assured us he knew the way to the falls, and that it was "not too far."

Having a little time, we stopped at Lihue to visit the public school under the principalship of Professor

Alexander. The school numbers one hundred and twenty pupils, most of whom are native Hawaiians, the others being Anglo-Saxons and Orientals, with a few Portuguese. The lesson for that morning was on the circus. The professor thought it best to direct the minds of the children to subjects which most interested them, and finding that the expected circus was the all-absorbing topic of the little folks, had chosen it for a lesson. Some had written essays on the circus, some had drawn pictures of it, some had solved problems, using the animals and tumblers as the representatives of the significant digits, while others had parsed the circus in their grammar lesson.

The professor gave us an exhibition of the skill of his scholars in singing as directed by motions of his hand, according to a new system, the name of which I have forgotten, but in which a certain movement indicates a certain note. He demonstrated that they could sing the most difficult airs which they had never heard before, from simple motions of the hand. The principal of the school has three assistants, of whom his wife is one.

We visited Mrs. Alexander's room, where we found about thirty little folks, mostly ranging from eight to twelve, whites, natives, half-castes, Japanese, and Chinese, some of whom knew not one word of English.

The exercise of the hour was reading in the second