less elevated neighbors. As the approaches to its sides are only a few narrow ridges, a small number of warriors were able to keep at bay a host of enemies. His castle, owing to its position, was impregnable. During the night his followers would go down the mountainside and levy blackmail, in the shape of pigs, fowls, taro, and yams for their lord's table. The end of this robber-baron is not known, but Mr. Jarvis suggests that from the atmosphere in which he lived he might have died of rheumatism, influenza, or pneumonia.

CHAPTER XXIII

OUR JOURNEY TO HANALEI.

LYING on the coast in a beautiful bay, about forty miles from Koloa, is the pretty little village of Hanalei. The road for the entire distance is excellent and easily traversed by carriages. No round of excursions on Kauai would be complete without a visit to this valley, and having heard so much of its beauty, I was very desirous to see it. Our party for the expedition consisted by Dr. Goodhue, his wife and baby, Mr. Farley, Dr. Crane, myself, and two native ser

vants.

Early in the morning, with the carriage and three saddle horses, we started on the delightful journey. My steed was an ambitious roan, determined not to be left behind. He outstripped every other animal in the procession, and when I attempted to check him, assumed some of the characteristics of an unbroken mustang. According to the suggestion of one of my companions I let him out for a three-mile dash to "take the ginger out of him." As we flew past scores of cane-carts, the Japanese drivers scampered to one side to avoid being ridden down by the flying steed.

A mile or two ahead of the party, I met one of the professional rat-catchers with twenty-five or thirty dogs of the rat-terrier species. The whole pack assailed my horse with barks and yelps.

"Are those all the dogs you have?" I asked, while my horse came to a halt and began to kick at the rate of six hundred revolutions to the minute.

"Yes," the Oriental answered, gazing with very little concern on the scene.

The angry horse, unable to strike his tormentors with either of his four feet, leaped the circle of yelping canines, and ran for a mile before I could check him.

Rats

Rat-catching is an employment in the islands. are very destructive to the sugar-cane, and it is said that a rat-catcher with his little army of dogs may in a day or two drive out or destroy the rodents of a plantation. The mongoose was brought to the islands to destroy the rats, but is so destructive to fowls and birds that it has proven a greater nuisance than the rats themselves.

After my horse was somewhat quieted, Dr. Goodhue overtook me, and we galloped along the broad road cut out of the side of the red hill, while we discussed books, and especially current literature. The doctor, tho realistic in his views and tastes to a certain extent, is by no means a pessimist, nor is he a realist to the utter destruction of romance. He be

lieves that a strong, vigorous literature like Scott's is of far more advantage to the world than the weak, effete realism of the present day.

"But give me breezy books," he declared as we galloped down the broad carriage-road. "Such a book is always a friend, and we invariably feel better after reading it."

We reached Lihue, where we made a short stop and procured a change of horses for the remainder of the drive. From this point the road winds around a lofty cliff with a part of the village above and a part below. The mountains were on our left, a lofty cliff and a vale with gushing water on our right, vistas of tropical trees on every side, and the broad ocean beyond. All the elements of the most beautiful scenery are here in the compass of a few miles.

After crossing the Wailua River, for some distance the carriage spun along a ridge, with a panorama of beautiful valleys, hills and mountains and sea on each side. The tall chimneys of the Kapaa sugar-mill met our view, and we soon reached the mill with its cluster of houses and huts. Two miles beyond this is the pretty little village of Kealia, where is situated the large Kealia sugar-mill of Colonel Z. S. Spalding, the only successful diffusion plant that I saw on the islands.

Leaving Kealia, we followed the road with the high ridge on our left growing thinner and thinner, until

at one point there is a hole through the mountain range, as if a cannon-shot had been fired through it, and the clear sky can be seen on the opposite side. Mr. Farley gave the following tradition of the hole through the mountain:

"A long time ago there lived a kind of a demon, half man and half hog. He came from one of the other islands, Oahu I believe. There lived a young prince at Waimea who was a brave man and a great warrior. He heard that this devil hog was at Hanalei rooting up the taro patches and destroying the yams, and he proceeded to build a fence across the island to keep him out. That is the fence he built," added Mr. Farley, pointing to the high mountain. Dr. Goodhue thought such a fence ought to keep out any ordinary hog.

"But it did not suffice in this instance," continued Mr. Farley. "The Prince of Waimea had his fence almost completed, when he discovered that all his work had been a failure. He had constructed this great range we have on our left, and, commencing on the other side, had built the range of which Hoary Head is the terminus, leaving only the gap through which we passed this morning to be filled up, when his job would have been complete. But being tired he sat down to rest a few moments. While he was

thus engaged, no doubt contemplating the sweet satisfaction he would have at baffling his enemy, he was