Next I saw a Hawaiian woman with a great nodule on either side of her chin, her face spotted and lumpy. As I looked about me, leprosy in all its most horrible and revolting forms was visible everywhere. Fingerless men and women, disfigured and frightful faces were to be seen on every hand. Even the band-boys who had discoursed such sweet music, and who had actually looked handsome in their bright uniforms, as seen from the boat, would not bear close inspection. Some played cornets with fingerless hands, others had nodules on their faces like monster warts, frightful and disgusting to behold, and one had lost his ears. After all, their music was sad, and their shouts and cheers, which had about them a pretended heartiness, were only a mockery. None so afflicted can ever be happy, and their pretenses of happiness are miserable failures. That awful word "pilikia," meaning trouble, never seemed burdened with such fearful significance as on this occasion. I heard it a hundred times that day, and it rang in my ears for months.

Senator Waterhouse, who had done so much to cheer us up on our voyage, seemed almost saintly when he landed on this island of sorrow. He was everywhere boldly grasping the fingerless hands with expressions of sympathy and hope When there was no hope in this world, he pointed to that bright world above where sorrow never comes. His words were

full of cheer to the come to adore him.

poor natives, who have almost

He knew many of them when they were in good health, and has been a frequent visitor to their island since their segregation, so that no one is hailed with more joy than he.

A guest-house has been built in Kalaupapa which no leper has ever been permitted to enter. After the strains of "The Star-Spangled Banner" had died away we started toward the house, our leper friends. crowding about us much nearer than was comfortable. On passing the warehouse I saw a blind leper standing near the door, whose face was the most dreadful I had yet beheld; but before the day was over I was destined to see others even more horrible than he.

Fully two hundred lepers followed us to the guesthouse, and stood around the fence, about the yard, gazing fondly, lovingly, and longingly at us, as if we were dearly beloved friends whom they dared not approach. There was neither envy, malice, nor idle curiosity in their gaze, but the utmost friendliness. The band of leper boys went to a porch on a building near the guest-house, from which they discoursed the sweetest, yet the saddest music I ever heard. Chief among the unfortunates who contributed so much toward making us welcome was Ambrose Hutchins, the association manager and sheriff, and with him. Notley and Waiamau, young men especially useful in Kalaupapa.

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Mr. Hutchins took his place at the gate of the guest-house to see that no leper should so far forget himself as to enter the ground sacred to visitors. He is a leper in whom the disease seems to have exhausted itself in the destruction of the extremities. His case is what is known in medical science as nervous leprosy. His fingers are gone, and his lower lip paralyzed so that when he speaks, it drops down over his chin. When he has finished a sentence he replaces his lip with his fingerless hand, and holds it in place with his upper lip. Dr. Day pointed out a boy to me whose eyelids were so paralyzed by leprosy that he could not hold them open, and was compelled to hold his head back in order to see under them. His eyebrows and lashes had fallen out, and his dark face had a peculiar ashen or death-like pallor.

Leprosy seems more fatal with children than with people of mature age. A former manager of the settlement expressed it as his belief that no one who contracted the disease in middle life ever died of it. As so little is known of the disease, the doctors are uncertain how it is contracted. There is also a difference of opinion as to whether it is a disease of the nerves or of the blood, tho classed among the skin diseases. The blood seems to become clogged, and refusing to circulate in the veins, the nerves of the extremities, fingers, toes, and ears, failing to get their supply, die, and the members drop off. The