Lady CHAMBERS-A green velvet dress, with a border of ruby and green Mosaic festooned with cords and tassels. Head-dress, feathers and diamonds.

Lady C. SCOTT.-A dress of white crape and satin, embroidered with silver, and edged with lavender velvet embroidered to correspond. The body and train of lavender velvet, embroidered with silver.

Lady HAGGERSTONE.-A white crape and satin dress, embroidered with silver, and richly decorated with ropes of silver beads and tassels; drapery of ruhy velvet, embroidered with silver; body and train of ruby velvet embroidered.Head-dress, feathers and diamonds.

Four Ladies PERCY.-White satin petticoats, with elegant draperies of white satin trimmed with fine swansdown. Trains of white satin.and swansdown to correspond.

Lady PULTENEY.-White petticoat, bordered with gold fringe, and puce velvet vandykes ; elegant gold embroidered drapery, ornamented with gold and tassels; puce velvet train, trimmed to crrespond.

Lady DRAKE.-Yellow and silver petticoat, ornamented with black velvet. Train black velvet, trimmed with silver, yellow sleeves, with point

lace.

Hon. Mrs. ERSKINE.-A beautiful dress of violet velvet, and white crape, embroidered with silver drapery of violet velvet, covered with showers of spangles, and edged with Vandyke border of Maltee silver. Body and train to correspond.

Hon. Mrs. WALPOLE.-A yellow crape petticoat, with a rich appliqué of silver and Argus feathers, ornamented with silver fringe and tassels; train, black velvet. The beauty of the feathers, and novelty of the dress, attracted general admiration.

Mrs. WINDHAM.-A grey velvet robe, with a white satin petticoat richly embroidered.

Mrs. MANNERS SUTTON.-A white crape petticoat, richly striped and showered with gold spangles, formed in draperies, trimmed with point, and tied up with gold tassels and cord; black velvet robe, trimmed with gold point lace.

Mrs. ABBOTT.-A white satin petticoat, richly embroidered in gold sprigs; with draperies of violet velvet embroidered, with handsome borders to correspond. Train of violet velvet, the body and sleeves richly embroidered. Head-dress to correspond, with diamonds.

Hon. Miss CAVENDISH.-A white satin petticoat, with crape drapery, and a rich Mosaic embroidery of gold beads, fastened with a gold bead chain; train purple satin, trimmed with gold beads.

Hon. Miss ONSLOW.-White satin petticoat, with a crape drapery of rich Mosaic, border embroidered in gold; train to correspond. No. XIII. Vol. II.

The Three Misses MANNERS SUTTON were dressed exactly alike, in pink satin dresses, and petticoats drawn up in Turkish draperies, mixed with a profusion of large Roman pearl. The form of these dresses was so decidedly new, that with these fair wearers they attracted the universal admiration of the Court. Head-dresses formed of pearls, and five beautiful ostrich feathers.

BIRTH-DAY SPLENDOUR,

DELINEATED IN A LETTER FROM ELIZA TO JULIA.

MY DEAREST JULIA!

As I yesterday forwarded you a large packet of general remarks, I shall confine this letter to an higher order of delineation, and give you a sketch of Birth-day splendour. This moment returned from St. James's, my pen (naturally the talisman of a full heart), can treat only of grandeur and effect heightened by individual loveliness-of Majesty and rank softened by the graces of condescension and elegance. I could occupy much of my time and paper, descanting on the kindness and affability with which our amiable Queen received her splendid Court; and I could employ as much more, in describing the various attractions which distinguished the royal race that followed in her train; but subjects so inte. resting would engage me too deeply, and beguile me from the simple purport of my letter, which is to give you a general idea of the brilliancy and grace of a Court costume. But expect not, dear Julia, that I can be minute; for, in that case, I should actually complete a pocket volume of no inconsiderable dimensions. I will, however, endeavour to simplify the chaos which is collected in my brain, and when beauty and ornament represent themselves to my mind in the individual order I yesterday beheld them, I will do all in my power to make you a sharer in the lively pleasure they afforded me. You have doubtless read with attention the descriptions given in the diurnal prints. Those that appear to be most correct, are forwarded for your satisfaction; and such as have escaped the notice of these publishers, I will here give you in detail; but I shall more effectually befriend my dear Julia, by particularizing that general style which will be the just standard and criterion for full dress during the present season. Cousin Mary (who is as much distinguished for her taste as her beauty), assures me that she has seldom witnessed a Birth-day where the general costume was more chastely elegant; and for me, to whom the scene was quite new, I was as much dazzled as interested; and equally captivated with the splendour of the dresses, as attracted by the beauty and elegance of the wearers.

H

As there were many presentations, several young and lovely women appeared in white, variously designed and executed. There was not one of these costumes which the most correct taste could condemn; but that which struck me as most elegant, and which I had an opportunity of contemplating closely, for some moments, was composed entirely of white satin. The drapery of the petticoat was pointed in the most novel and tasteful style, and round the bottom, drapery, and train, was a deep and rich border of silver, à la Grecque, with leaves in mosaic. At the edge of the border was a deep and splendid tassel fringe. The waist and sleeves were thickly wrought in minute leaves of silver mosaic. The head-dress corresponded in splendour and taste with this almost celestial costume. It was formed of a cluster of nine feathers, à la militaire, placed nearly over the left eye, and ornamented at their base with the most superb aigrette of diamonds, and the hind tresses were confined in a twisted knot, with a rich comb to correspond. The necklace consisted of one row of the finest brilliants, set transparent, from the centre of which was suspended a cross of equal beauty and lustre, with ear-rings to suit. Nothing could exceed the attractive elegance of this habiliment, nor any grace of person, that which it adorned. The most perfect symmetry of height and size, the most correct features, animated by eyes and brows the most expressive. A profile more complete could not have offered itself to the most vivid imagination. But, my dear Julia! I must check this enthusiasm, or I shall give that space to one, which might justly be occupied by numbers, for certainly the rising nobility are very lovely; and were I to treat thus fully of personal attractions, the M-s, the D-s, the AS, and the R―s, with a train of et ceteras, would equally claim their portion.

It is very singular that the papers should have omitted to notice a dress, which by its uncommon richness appeared to attract universal opservation. It consisted of a petticoat of white satin, superbly embroidered at the bottom in passion-flowers, embossed with silver. The draperies were of silver crape. The train of rich amber-coloured velvet, embroidered in shaded brown and silver; passion flowers to correspond with the petticoat, and a deep silver fringe at the bottom of each. The body and sleeves ornamented with silver, and a deep fall of Mechlin lace round the bosom. Head-dress, a tiara of large pearl, military plume of white feathers, tipt with amber. Necklace, ear-rings, and armlets, of the finest pearl. This dress was strikingly nouvelle, and possessed a splendour of effect consistent with the grand occasion on which it was

worn.

I was also much attracted by a dress formed entirely of silver-grey velvet, ornamented roundthe train, petticoat, and drapery, with a white beaded fringe, and a fancy border of pearl, in a sort of Tuscan chain. In the centre of each link was a star of crimson foil, small spots of which were thinly dispersed in other parts of the border. This dress possessed also much singularity and beauty.

A white crape petticoat over white satin, the bottom, drapery, and pocket-holes ornamented with bunches of purple grapes and vine-leaves. Body and train of purple satin, trimmed with silver fringe. A bandeau of diamonds, and plume of white feathers, A similar dress, ornamented with the convolvulus, had each a very animated effect.

But I must not suffer to escape my notice, a dress whose singularity excited universal atten tion; it consisted of white crape petticoat, worn over white satin, ornamented all over with tufts of the Argus feather. The drapery was fastened up with the same in full size. The train was of crimson satin, trimmed with silver fringe; the body and sleeves thickly spangled. Argus feathers were blended with the ostrich, which composed the head-dress. I do not recollect ever to have seen feathers fixed to so much advantage as on this splendid occasion, and there is no ornament which requires so much taste and attention; for if not placed with judgment, they tend rather to disguise than adorn the wearer. The style of the hair accorded exactly with those descriptions already in your possession. No shading for the bosom was generally seen beyond the gown, which was cut every way so very low, as to expose the back and shoulders, and many fair females exhibited the bosom quite à la Francoise. But, in justice to some individuals, I ought to tell you, that where the robe-maker had tres. passed on the bounds of modesty, I observed a piece of point lace put strait across the back, and gently gathered in the centre with a small diamond brooch, while the same soft shading was judiciously adopted for the bosom. The chaste and correct attention paid by our virtuous Queen to every thing which affects the moral purity of the nation, must have been gratified with this delicate attempt in her fair subjects to cast the veil of English decorum over a custom of Gallic obtrusion.

I confess, my dear Julia, I am sorry when I see the British female forsaking the dignity of her character. Some kind author tells us, we are formed to be imitated; and surely we would not now become copyists.

What do you think of me, my friend? Is there any danger (after all my admiration of the great and the gay) that the dear parsonage should

be disgraced by me? God forbid! I admire the gay world, but I adore the good! Don't be in a rage now, for I am not going to preach. No, my love, I can descend from my stilts in a moment; can skip with magic quickness from the rector's pulpit to a lady's sleeve! These same sleeves, my dear Julia, were on this day worn short and easily plain, trimmed and ornamented meme the dress. I am sorry I cannot treat much of our favourite appendage, the bouquet. I scarcely saw three in the drawing-room suit, nor were any flowers worn in the hair. But how will our grandfathers exult, when they hear that there were not half a dozen ladies who wore rouge Cousin John says, he does not wish to see this hitherto animating appendage of the toilette entirely exploded. He observes, that when the vivid rays of youth have ceased to animate the female face divine, or when axiety has cast her pale shade over the matronly brow, it is but paying a compliment to nature and society when we borrow the lustre of art; and that the error rests in the concealment, and the injury in excess! However this may be, I cannot but wish my dear Julia (with her interesting fairness) would leave off this artificial colouring. My aunt assures me it is ever a detriment to an unmarried woman; and you see that even cousin John, with all his liberality, only thinks it allowable in the old and the anxious.

I cannot better conclude this epistle, than with a description of the wedding-dress of Lady H. Villiers; for a bridal costume possesses considerable interest for us young girls who one day hope to be ranked amidst the votaries of Hymen. This dress, my dear Julia, was composed of the finest India cobweb muslin, made round with a train, and worn over a soft and highly polished satin slip; it had an appliqued apron in front, of the finest Mechlin lace, with which the dress was also trimmed; the back was cut very low, and the front formed square, terminated with a lace tucker, and finished at each corner of the bosom, with brooches of the finest pearl; the sleeve á la Circassian, or Turkish, fastened with similar ornaments; her hair was simply and tastefully confined with an arrow formed of blended diamonds and pearls; and a tiara to correspond. From the crown of the head flowed a Brussels lace veil of the most transparent fabric; her pelise was formed of a beautiful undressed glossy satin, of French white, and cut with the Chinese back; its trimming corresponding with the unique muff and tippet, was of the finest gossamer fur.

portrait, but just tell you, that the prevailing colours at Court were, violet, green, jonquille, and pink; that borders á la Grecque, and Vandyke, are more distinguishing than ever; and that I am your much exhausted, but ever faithful

ELIZA.

THE LONDON SHOEMAKER.

SEE you that elegant chariot which, in rapid flight, skims lik a swallow, the surface of the street? Who do you think thus drives along in this dashing style and equipage? It is a celebrated Shoemaker, an all-accomplished son of Crispin, a man of fashion and elegance, a paragon of taste-who makes ladies' shoes, of a colouring, quality, brilliancy, eloquence, and poetry, beyond all competition and description. He never speaks but in numbers-he breathes his amorous songs, takes his measures as zephyrs gather roses; the Anacreon of his trade, the Tibullus of the buskin, the Ovid of the last. This arbiter of pedal taste and ornament, barely expends 15001. a-year. Is it not then an irresistible proof of the excellent order of things, when the scale of conditions is so well maintained, that a Shoemaker can drive, full speed in his carriage, through the western streets and squares of the metropolis, to receive the ladies' orders for shoes and sandals, from 20s. to 30s. a pair? Our Shoemaker is a man unrivalled for his presence of mind, and no man more eminently possesses the art of reminding a well formed woman of her own importance.

A lady of the first rank and quality, saw in the house of a devotee to fashion, some elegant shoes of various colours, shapes, and decorations, and of a physiognomy interesting beyond description. "Oh Lud!" she exclaimed to her friend, "I am delighted with your exquisite taste in the article of shoes-I am in extacy at the sight-What a beautiful pair of shoes are those fawn-coloured kid, laced on the instep with silvered leather, elastic soles and heels.-And how delightfully handsome those glossy white satin slippers and silver spangles." The inimitable Shoemaker is sent for, and attends. He is honoured with an introduction-assumes the man of fashion, and excells the courtier in politeness. "Your Ladyship has the most elegant foot and ankle in the universe, and it will be my pride to embellish the triumphant excellencies of your majestic step." The shoes are ordered for the same