Imágenes de páginas
PDF
EPUB

heart) been realized, and my dear Truro friend been at my elbow, how should I have enjoyed to behold her all eye, at the brilliant assemblage which this dazzling scene displays. Here, dear Julia, the chesnut blooms, the beech, and lime, and towering oak, combine to grace with the rich luxuriance of rural loveliness, the genius of taste, beauty, and art; and to render this place the most delightful coup d'œil that can enchant a wandering novice. Do not tell the dear inhabitants of my native home! but, dear Julia, I have been engaged every day for these three weeks past at assemblies, routs, dinner parties, operas, exhibitions, &c. &c.-pleasure pursues me in her various pleasing forms, and enchains me in her silken fetters. So delusive, so soft, and delightful is the bondage, that I look forward to my emancipation with trembling. Oh! dear friend, how shall I endure stupid Truro after all this fascinating elegance? You alone can reconcile me on my return. You alone, did I say? Ah! no-My kind, indulgent, ever beloved parents, will endear the most desolate spot; for though alive to pleasure, pleasure has not contaminated the sensibilities of nature, or choked the avenues of affection and gratitude-Heaven forbid it should! for all the splendid, gay delights which riches, rank, or beauty can procure, or pleasure's votaries know, are but a wretched substitute for those pure and chastened emotions of the soul, excited and kept up by friendship and love. But I wander from my subject; let me then return, however abruptly, to those deJineations which are to form the chief feature of my letter, and which will, I know, insure it a more welcome reception, than sentimental reflections, however apt, or descantations, however sage. Well then, dear Julia, to begin!---Cousin Mary was allowed to be the best drest woman in the Gardens; and aspiring me, (who may naturally be expected to improve from so bright an original) was not amidst the worst. Mary wore a French coat, on an entirely new construction, formed of pea green Italian grape, of the most pliant texture, with wove satin spots. It was open on one side the figure, where it was tied at regular distances with ribbons of shaded green. The capes were à la Spanish, edged with shaded chord; and a rich girdle, and tassels, to correspond. With this Grecian coat is usually worn a short dress of cambric; and 1 will here, dear Julia, take occasion to remark that, no walking dresses are seen on females of taste and elegance, with a train; these graceful appendages being now entirely confined to their proper sphere-the drawing room. The hat worn by Mary with this coat, was a large Gipsy chip, painted at the edge in a border of the hop blossom; a wreath of which ornamented the crown. Mary is tall; and

[ocr errors]

possesses that necessary auxiliary to height finely rounded limbs, and a graceful carriage; her countenance is at once blooming with youth, and health; at the same time that her features convey an expression of great sweetness, interest, and intellect. You may guess how much this style of costume was calculated to exhibit her beauty to advantage. For myself, dear Julia, my habit was as it best became me, simple and unobtrusive; if therefore I did attract, it was from the reflected lustre of my very lovely cousin. I wore a plain French coat of silver lilac sarsnet, unornamented with scarf or vest, and only simply finished at the edge with a chord of the same colour. The extreme heat of the day compelled me to throw it open in front; and indeed, might have led us to relinquish these articles entirely; but fashion, you know, is ever arbitrary; or as our good squire would say, "Pride feels no smart. And indeed, dear Julia, had you seen the throng of Belles wrapt in saranet, and caged to the chin in plaited ruffs, if your conviction had not paid tribute to the Squire's adage, you must, at least have acknowledged, that their kindly dissolving natures had excited general sympathy, while you observed the surrounding beaus, gazing, in melting mood, on so much yielding loveliness. But I digress! Well! to take up my subject where I left it. My coat, worn open in front, exhibited a frock of jaconet muslin, embroidered at the bottom in a vandyke border, fancifully diversified with open leaves of lace. In front appeared a sash, formed of ribbard the colour of the coat, with very short bows, and ends nearly to reach the bottom of the frock. My little French bonnet was of the same colour, formed of alternate lace and ribband, in French puffings, tastefully contrasted and disposed. I must add, that I have seldom seen any thing of the kind more simply elegant. I have commanded one to be immediately forwarded to you, of the apple blossom satin; and as the increasing warmth and brightness of a summer's sun will soon oblige us to relinquish the sarsnet coat, for the lighter article of muslin, I thought it more judicious to choose, for my fair friend, a Grecian sc rf of Moravian muslin, which I have ordered to be trimmed all round with a shaded ribband of blossom and dove-colour, with correspondent tassels. I trust that you will admire my consideration, when I tell you that this scarf may not only be worn over your shoulders, as an out-door covering, with your bonnet, but may be disposed as a drapery (agreeably to the description contained in the list of general remarks, already in your possession), and worn over your white sarsnet round dress: it will thus form a most graceful evening appendage. We are going, on Thurs

day, to the Countess of D―'s grand assembly; || it is expected to be the most splendid thing of the season. Upwards of six hundred cards are issued for the occasion. Our dresses are already ordered. They are as follows:

Mary's is a round dress of white crape, over white satin, with a rich border of the water lily in gold. The body is of white satin, with orna. ments of point lace, and edgings of narrow gold trimming. She will wear her hair in irregular curls on the crown of the head; and flowing in ringlets on the left side, so as to play on the shoulder, divided in front of the forehead with a diamond star, representing the passion-flower.-My dress is a round gown of white sarsnet, with a French lace put easily full at the feet. A French apron of Paris net, trimmed all round, and at the pockets, with wreaths of jessamine; the bosom and sleeves correspondently ornamented. My hair in loose curls, confined with braids on one side, and ornamented with a wreath formed of pearl and green foil, representing the jessamine. My trinkets are of seed pearls, with emerald snaps; and my shoes of white satin, with silver rosets. The bosoms of our respective dresses are of the gored corset form, seamed with a trimming de même, that which decorates the robes. Indeed, amidst the round, square, and demi-wrap fronts, these, selected by us, are considered preeminently fashionable, and becoming to the form.

bosom, throat, or arms, with the above-mentioned habiliments.) This ruff has about half an ell of broad lace, fulled into a band of narrow raised needle work, little larger than the size of the throat. A band of muslin is gathered full on the other edge of the work, about an eighth in depth, and finished with a row of similar nee dle-work at the bottom. The lace, which sits high and straight round the chin, is finely crimped; and the full muslin, confined by the rows of work, sits in hollow gathers round the throat. When the habit shirt is made without a collar, or with the high morning dress, this elegant ruff is particularly convenient and becom. ing. Most cambric and muslin dresses are now made with the French pockets; and I have seen no embellishment more novel and striking.

Farewell, dear Julia! I look for a page or two of Truro news in return for this, my abun dant liberality, not less than a sheet full of friendly sentiments and affectionate solicitudes : but not much, if you please, on the charms of the country; for I am not yet tired of the pleasures of the town.

Adieu! with all possible friendship and affec tion believe me still your

ELIZA.

ANTIQUARIAN RESEARCHES,

INTO THE ORIGIN AND DIVERSITIES OF
COSTUME.

[Concluded from p. 225.]

ANN.

The hair, dear Julia, is much worn in full dress, variously disposed, and ornamented, with a handkerchief of lace, bandeaus, stars, and demiwreaths. The diadem and tiara have had their day. A few turbans of plain white, or silver muslin, worn on the forehead in the Chinese form, have been lately introduced: they are either ornamented with deep bands of gold or silver, or twisted with large white beads. The cap, à la Alary Queen of Scots, is entirely of recent date. It is singular, and with some particular style of features, may produce an advantageous effect. It is at present an article confined to a few fan-served, when dining with Sir Thomas Hanmer, that the Duchess of Grafton, who was there, and wore this unbecoming, ungraceful, Babel headdress, looked "like a mad woman."

ciful individuals.

Vandyke frills, round the back and shoulders of dress gowns, are now much in vogue. Mary has scarcely an evening dress without them. No ornament gives a more becoming finish to the bust; and while it dresses consistently and elegantly the back and shoulders, it has the effect of lessening the appearance of the waist at the bottom.

Before I bid you good night, I will endeavour to give you a practical description of the new ruff, now almost indispensable to the morning and out-door costume. (And I beg you to remember, dear Julia, that nothing is considered so vulgar, and indecorous, as to exhibit the

THE ladies wore the hair in a becoming manner, curled round the face. The flowing coif, or rather veil, of the finest linen, fastened upon the head, fell behind, and prevailed till the high projecting head-dress was restored, after it had been discontinued fifteen years. Swift ob

The large necklace was still used though not constantly worn, but the ear-ring was discon tinued. The bosom was either entirely exposed, or merely shaded by gauze, an indecency that gave great and equal offence to prudent fathers and ladies whose necks no longer vied in whiteness with the down of swans.

The chemise had a tucker, or border, but that seldom concealed what it ought to have hid. The boddice was open in front, and fastened with gold or silver clasps, or jewellery; the siceves full,

The large tub hoop made its appearance in this reign, and was of all things the most absurd; however, the apology for its absurdity was its coolness in summer, by admitting a free circulation of air. Granger says, "it was no more a petticoat than Diogenes's tub was his breeches."*

The flounces and furbelows which began in this reign, became enormously ridiculous. Embroidered shoes continued in fashion; and both ladies and gentlemen had their gloves richly embroidered.

Queen Ann strictly observed decorum in her dress, and is said to have carried it so far as to appear to have made it her study; and would often condescend to observe in her domestics of either sex, whether a ruffle, or perriwig, or the lining of a coat were appropriate. Lord Bofingbroke was once sent for in haste by the Queen, and went to her Majesty in a ramillie, or tie-wig, instead of a full-bottomed one; which so offended his sovereign, that she said," I suppose that his Lordship will come to court the next time in his night-cap."

GEORGE I.

Spanish broad cloth, trimmed with gold lace, was still in use for ladies' dresses; and scarfs, greatly furbelowed, were worn from the Duchess to the peasant, as were riding-hoods on herseback, and the masks, which continued in use till the following reign, to shield the face from the sunimer's sun and the winter's wind.

ON RIVALRY.

THOSE Who think that Rivalry is a source of hatred and quarrels among men, will find themselves undeceived when they judge of things not according to the first appearance they assume, but to the state in which we behold them, when experience has torn off the veil which concealed truth from our eyes. It will then be seen, on the contrary, at least in many cases, to join two persons together in the bonds of friendship: for what is required to render friendship more sincere and more lasting, but a similarity of tastes and inclinations? And whatever be the end to which we bend our exertions, whether it be the possession of a fine woman, the acquirement of a talent and science, or of a lucrative employment, still having constantly the same object in view, holding it in the same estimation, feeling the same wish of succeeding in its attainment, and probably following the same path towards it, will necessarily lead them to a close resemblance of each other, and pave the way to their future intimacy. They must incessantly meet toge ther, and provided their temper be not unamiable, jealousy will not be powerful enough to blind them to the consciousness of their respective merit, and to blast effectually every seed of

The female sex generally alter their modes of dress most; but as there was no queen in Great Britain, and as the ladies who accompanied his majesty were neither by birth, propriety of conduct, age, or beauty, qualified to make any impression in point of fashion in this country where they were very generally unpopular, their influence did not operate much towards effecting an alteration in female dress or decorations of any kind. Nevertheless the ladies still reduced their shapes, as if to represent some of those insects which seem to have the two ends held together only by a slender union. But the consequence of this tapering was deformity and ill-health; injustice in their hearts, as to render them unvein did a Venus de Medicis prove that there is a due proportion to be observed by nature; in vain was it allowed that, amongst unclothed Africans, a crooked woman was as great a rarity as a straight European lady. To Mademoiselle Pantine, a mistress of Marshal Saxe, the world was obliged for that stiffened pasteboard case called a pantine, by which an universal compression ensued, to the destruction of the fine symmetry of the female form, as designed by nature.

[merged small][ocr errors]

able to acknowledge it. The longing they feel of excelling each other, induces them to pry more minutely into every quality or perfection they possess, and therefore they descry the most hidden virtues of their souls, which are not perhaps equally apparent to those who have not the same interest in watching them. As they pursue the same course, the same ideas must start up in their minds, their conversation proves equally useful to both, and the emulation which impels them to display all their faculties, causes them to shine with brighter lustre in the eyes of the world. It may be said on the other side, that Rivalry has directed the hand of the first murderer, that Cain and Abel, Eteocles and Polynice, were, by her inspiration, taught to revel in the blood of their adversaries; but these characters had received from nature more violent passions, than those which agitate the breasts of our modern beaux, and the manners of the times

in which their crimes were perpetrated, were not calculated to teach them lessons of humanity.

Lucretia reigns like a sovereign over the hearts of those who surround her; numberless subjects await her nod, and try to gratify all her wishes as soon as they are made known, they are even able to guess them. The direction of her affairs never was so wisely and so securely placed as in the hands of her admirers; they are the most disinterested lawyers and agents that ever have been met with, for the only reward they | demand for their trouble is a look, or the permission of continuing their exertions. They seem to be a family of brothers instead of rivals, and the cause of their union is the belief that none is more successful than the rest.

Lucretia displays all her art in order not to dispel this pleasing illusion, and success has constantly attended her line of conduct. Every one longs to divine her least important wishes, and to acquire a higher title to her favour by hastening to fulfil them. She has made a particular study of their tempers, and according to the result of her observations, classifies them, so as to lay open before them the career in which their talents are most calculated to shine: thus the company she receives is like an instrument, the keys of which she knows how to strike harmoniously. Far from imitating the coquettes who think it an honour to be the cause of quarrels, she employs all her influence in preserving peace and order among her suitors; and, like the sun, which keeps in equipoise the worlds that roll around it, she is the centre of attraction, around which all the beaux are equally drawn and move in regular orbits. If one be absent from her, and meet with his rival, he will feel no sentiment of jealousy, but gladness at being able to converse on the same subject with a person who is as deeply interested in her welfare as himself.

Rivalry, in what regards the powers of the mind, is not always a source of mutual aversion; two rival authors are in general desirous of pleasing each other, when in company together, by yield. ing up voluntarily the palm of talent, in order to shew themselves more worthy of it; and as though they did not acknowledge their respective merit in public, they feel it, when in solitude they see truth naked; the hope of profiting by each other's conversation is another motive for their becoming closely acquainted.

In a word, it is only among women and slaves that Rivalry is never forgotten or forgiven.

BIRTHS.

In Grosvenor square, Lady Ann Ashley Cooper, Pady of the Hon. Cropley Ashley Cooper, M. P. of a son.

In Charlotte-square, the Lady of Sir John Sinclair, of Ulbster, Bart. of a daughter.

The Hon. Mrs. Vansittart, of a son and heir. In Grosvenor-square, Lady Stanley, of a daugh

ter.

In Spring Gardens, the Right Hon. the Coun tess of Berkeley, of a daughter.

At Mr. Perceval's, in Lincoln's-Inn-fields, Mrs. Perceval, of a son.

At St. Giles's, the Right Hon. Lady Elizabeth Talbot, of a daughter.

In London, Lady Howick, of a son.

At her mother's house, the Duchess of Rutland, in Sackville-street. Piccadilly, Lady Catherine Forrester, of a son.

At the Earl of Derby's house, Golden-square, Lady Stanley, of a daughter.

In Gower-street, the wife of Captain Jonathan Birch, of a daughter.

A poor woman at Sunderland was delivered of three children, all likely to live.

MARRIED.

At St. George's Church, Hanover-square, Lord Chartley, eldest son of the Earl of Leicester, to Miss Gardner, daughter of W. D. Gardner, Esq. of Lower Grosvenor-street.

At Mary-le-Bone Church, Major General the Hon. Charles Hope, to Miss Finch Hatton, eldest daughter of George Finch Hatton, Esq. of Eastwell Park, Kent.

Lately, at Messina, in Sicily, LieutenantColonel Bunbury, Quarter-Master-General to the British Army in that Island, to Miss Louisa Fox, eldest daughter of General Fox, and niece to the late Right Hon. C. J. Fox.

Lately, at Zante, Count Antonio Comuto, Prince and President of the Ionian Republic, to Miss Ellena Foresti, daughter of Spiridion Foresti, Esq. British Resident in the Seven Islands.

In London, Robert Heathcote, Esq. (brother of Sir Gilbert Heathcote) to Miss Searle of Covent

Garden theatre.

At St. George's Church, Hanover-square, the Hon. Colonel Crewe, son of Lord Crewe, of Crewe Hall, in the county of Chester, to Miss Hungerford, of Cavendish-square, and of Calne,

in Wiltshire.

In Dublin, C. Aldrich, Esq. of 50th regt. to Miss Blake, sister to the Countess of Errol.

At Edinburgh, Robert Fraser, Esq. to Lady Anne Maitland, eldest daughter of the Earl of Lauderdale.

The Rev. Thomas Woodforde, of Ashford, Somersetshire, to Miss Braithwaite, of the Royal Infirmary, Greenwich,

DIED.

Lawrence Harman Parsons, Earl of Ross, Viscount Ormanstown, and Baron Ormanstown. His Lordship married Lady Jane King, eldest daughter of the first Earl of Kingston, by whom he has left one daughter, who is married to Lord Erris, the nephew of the Countess, and who now inherits the immense fortune, real and personal,

of her late father.

At Edinburgh, Lady Maxwell, relict of Sir William Maxwell, of Monreith, Bart. and mother of the Duchess of Gordon.

At Windsor, the Rt. Rev. John Douglas, Lord Bishop of Salisbury.

In New Burlington-street, after a long and most severe illness, the Right Hon. Lady Walpole.

At her house in Bath, in the 81st year of her age, Lady Gibbons, reliet of the late Sir John Gibbons, Bart. K. B. and mother of the present Sir Wm. Gibbons, Bart.

At Paris, in the 85th year of her age, the Right Hon. Lady Anastasia Stafford Howard, Baroness of Stafford, only surviving daughter and heir of William Earl of Stafford, who died in 1734. She was sole heir of the body of Sir Wm. Howard, Viscount Stafford, the only married younger son of the present Duke of Norfolk's ancestor, Thomas Howard, Earl of Arundel. She was also sole heir of the body of that Viscount's wife, Mary Stafford, Baroness of Stafford; and through her sole heir of the body of Edward, the last Stafford, Duke of Buckingham, hereditary Lord High Constable of England, who was sole heir of the body of King Edward the Third's youngest son, Thomas Plantagenet, of WoodAt Osborn's Hotel, Sir James Durno, lately stock, Duke of Gloucester, and of his wife, Lady his Majesty's Consul at Memel, &c.

At Salthill, the Duke of Montpensier, brother to the Duke of Orleans, first Prince of the bloodRoyal of France

In Park-street, Grosvenor-square, the Right Hon. Lady Jane Knolls, second daughter of the Earl of Banbury.

At his seat near Castle-Martyr, in Ireland, after a tedious illness, the Earl of Shannon.

At Vienna, Count Stahremberg, father of Count Stahremberg, the Austrian Ambassador in this country.

At a very advanced age, Mrs. Kemble, relict of the late Roger Kemble, Esq. and mother of that family who are properly considered as the great supports of the modern Stage.

At Ramsgate, Charles Dilly, Esq. formerly an eminent bookseller in London.

At the Hague, in the 98th year of his age, Joseph Vanderdeirson, of some considerable wealth, who never intermeddled in the revolutions or politics of his country. It is farther added, that he never was known to go out of his house for upwards of forty years; nor of any thing going into or out of it, by his nearest neighbours.

At the Hague, on the 15th inst. the Prince Royal, Napoleon Charles, in his fifth year. This is the youth who it was intended should be the successor of the French Emperor.

Eleanor Bohun, eldest daughter and co-heir of the last Humphrey Bohun, Earl of Hereford, Essex, and Northampton, and Lord High Constable of England; and whose younger sister was wife of King Henry the Fourth, but from whose body there was an entire failure of issue on the death of her grandson, King Henry the Sixth.

Notwithstanding the accumulation of Plantagenet, Bohun, and Stafford heirships, which became centered in Lady Anastasia Stafford Howard, she was disabled by the attainder of her ancestor, the last Stafford, Duke of Buckingham, in the reign of King Henry the Eighth, from possessing any of the family dignities, except the Stafford Barony. She died without having ever been married. Her he is Sir William Jerningham,

Bart. whose grandmother was sister of the before. mentioned William, Earl of Stafford.

At his house in Queen-street, Brompton-road, Nicholas Bond, Esq. upwards of twenty years one of the Sitting Magistrates at the Public Office in Bow-street, being appointed to that situation upon the demise of the late Sir John Fielding.

London: Printed by and for J. BELL, Southampton-street, Strand.

« AnteriorContinuar »