LA BELLE ASSEMBLÉE.

FASHIONS

For JUNE, 1807.

EXPLANATION OF THE PRINTS OF FASHION

ENGLISH COSTUME.

No. 1.-MORNING WALKING DRESS.

A plain round gown of French cambric, or jaconot muslin; long sleeve, wrapt front, and spenser back. Open shirt, frilled round the neck with scolloped Jace. Mountain hat of straw, or Imperial chip, trimmed with jonquille ribband. Shoes and gloves to correspond. Flemish mantle of twill sarsnet. Gold hoop earrings; and patent parasol of shaded green.

No. 2.-FULL DRESS.

A round robe of white Italian crape over white sarsnet; with frock back, plain sleeve, and pointed front; trimmed round the bottom, bosom, and sleeves with an elegant border, composed of the pearl bead, blended with green foil and gold. The robe confined at the centre of the bosom with a brooch formed of a single pearl. One row of the same forms the necklace, which is fastened with an emerald snap. Hoop earrings, and bracelets to correspond. Hair à-la-Madona on the forehead, twisted behind, and flowing in full curls on the crown of the head; a bunch of white roses in front, inclining towards the right side. Gloves of French kid; shoes of white satin, with silver trimming. Square shawl of Chinese silk, with a rich pointed border; finished at each point with correspondent tassels. The style of wearing this graceful ornament is, simply || giving it a twist from the cross corners, and flinging it negligently over the left shoulder; thus one point ornaments the figure behind, while the others, falling irregularly, form a drapery on the left side, and gracefully occupy the right No. XVII. Vol. II.

hand.

Chinese fan of frosted crape, with ivory sticks, carved in Egyptian characters.

No. 3.-PARISIAN FULL DRESS.

A round train dress of India muslin of the clearest texture, worn over a white satin slip, ornamented round the bottom, and up the front, with a rich border composed of ruby foil, and gold embroidery; long waist and stiff stay; the dress formed with a round bosom, and cut so low as greatly to expose the bust; the back simply drawn to a point at the extremity of the waist behind, and finished with a short sash of white satin. A full sleeve, ornamented towards the bottom with a roll and tuft of satin, finished at the extreme edge, round, and across the bosom with a full trimming of the same, or with plaitings of French net. Hair in the Eastern style, formed of the cable braid, bound and twisted on the forehead in alternate bands and knots, confined in a similar style behind with a caul of gold net. Earrings and necklace of rubies, set transparent, and linked with gold bracelets to correspond. White kid gloves; and white satin shoes, with gold rosets.

No. 4-WALKING, OR CARRIAGE COSTUME.

A Cossack spenser and cap of lilac twill sarsnet, ornamented with silk frogs, cords, and tassels of the same colour; high collar, and sleeve with full tops. A plain round dress of cambric, or simply open-hemmed at the bottom, or let in with work or lace. Straw-coloured kid gloves, and shoes the colour of the spenser. parasul of the Eastern form.

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Large

SELECT DELINEATIONS

OF THE

MOST PREVAILING FASHIONS, OBTAINED FROM OUR USUAL SOURCES OF TASTE AND ELEGANCE.

IN our last Number, inspired by hope and promise, we dwelt on the progressive loveliness of returning Spring; we lingered with fond expectation on the budding foliage, and viewed with pleasure, heightened by anticipation, the bursting blossom, herald of coming splendour. The rich and glowing beauties of the expanded foliage, the blossom ripened into full maturity, and rich in gay luxuriance, now arrests the admiring eye. The face of nature wears one universal smile, and beauty, magnificence, and grace reign alike in the animal and vegetable kingdom. The charms of the country, and the pleasures of the town, now hold forth their rival claims; and while Flora invites by her gay and rural fragrance, and soothes to calm tranquillity the bosom agitated with worldly cares, the Goddess of Fashion and Pleasure offers mingled scenes of splendour and || delight. The enchanting witcheries of grace and beauty surround their festive board, and the heart willingly surrenders itself at the shrine of taste and loveliness, taken captive by the eye and the ear.

Nothing can exceed in attractive elegance the present race of our fashionable fair; rich in a tasteful invention, and unrivalled in amiability, grace, and beauty, they offer examples every way worthy of imitation. In our grand assemblies of rank and fashion, there is every charm which can engage the eye or captivate the heart. In our theatres, in the Park and Gardens (where in this land of liberty the peasant is as free as his lord), the eye wanders from object to object, till admiration is lost in a chaos of delight. In the Gardens, (that place of fashionable resort and public display) the softened charm of the country mingles with the splendour of a rich, tasteful, and flourishing metropolis. We never recollect a period when this last-mentioned spot exhibited a more brilliant assemblage of beauty and fashion than at this present season.

The out-door costume of our fashionable females, was never more tastefully selected-it is at once various and attractive. We shall endeavour to delineate such as appeared to us most novel and striking. And amidst these we must remark the Hungarian vest, the Spanish mantle, Cossack spenser, Grecian scarf, and French coat. The latter article is particularly described in our last Number; the Hungarian vest is perhaps the most graceful and elegant ornament of the kind that was ever offered at the shrine of taste and fashion. It is of too fanciful a formation to allow

of a minute representation, but we offer to our readers such a description as its fanciful structure will best afford. The one which attracted our notice was formed of a silver lilac, or shot sarsnet, and the effect in front is somewhat resembling the spenser, having a high collar and long sleeve; but a mantle, or scarf, is suspended from the left shoulder with a few gathers, crossing the back plain behind, and flowing in the form of the hood worn by our Masters of Arts, except that it wraps over the adverse side, is fastened with a belt of a gathered silk across the bosom; and the whole of the mantle is trimmed round with a border of silk in reversed gathers. On a tall and elegant figure, nothing can outvie the very distinguishing effect of this article. The bonnet worn with it was the Foley poke, formed of the same material as the vest. The Spanish mantle is a species of the Gipsy, or Spanish cloak of established celebrity; but is much shorter, is formed of sarsnet, cut to a point behind, and sloped square on each side, till it meets the bend of the elbow; it is formed with pointed capes, nearly resembling those of the Polish police given in our winter Paints of Fashion; the cape and cloak are trimmed entirely round with a border of the same material in reversed gathers. This very neat and ingenious trimming is the most novel and select finish for all kinds of coats, spensers, and mantles that has come within our observation for a length of time. Before we quit this article of attire, we will give to our fair correspondents the only ornament in the style of a scarf which has struck us as worthy of notice.It is composed of a simple width of muslin, coloured or white, is two yards and a quarter long, and one yard wide; it is doubled in form of a roll at the edge, and immediately above is placed a ribband of correspondent hue with the scarf, laid flat all round, and at each corner is fixed a tassel in form of an acorn. This scarf is thrown over the left shoulder, crosses the back, and passing under the left arm, is brought over the bosom, and meets at the opposite corner, where it is confined with a diamond pinThus disposed, the ends on the left side nearly reach the feet in irregular folds, and the right constitutes a short pointed tunic. Many of our fashionable belles have this scarf formed of lace, or crape, embroidered tastefully at the edge, and placed as above, over a white satin under-dress; this forms a most elegant drawing-room costume. Little alteration has taken place in the style of full dress since our last communication. French aprons over sarsnet gowns, ornamented with natural flowers, are still considered fancifully elegant. Robes of jonquille Italian crape over white satin, and frocks of lilac muslin, with white sarsnet or satin slips, are the distinguishing selection

throat with a sarsnet ribbon tied in short bows,
with ends reaching below the waist, finished with
the cone, or acorn tassel. If the morning dress is
made low in the neck, then the embroidered
habit shirt is considered as indispensable. These
shirts are an article which it will be long before
fashion relinquishes; for the female who may
have declined the exposure of the neck and
throat, will in vain search for an ornament of
such becoming or consistent elegance. Trinkets
vary little since our last communication. Brooches
for the bosom and throat are still a fashionable
appendage. Diamonds and pearls, when set after
the modern taste, are amidst those valuable and
choice ornaments which will never be old. Gar-
nets, rubies, and emeralds, are universally set
transparent. Seed coral, and pearl of the cable
form, with the barrel snap, are much worn for
necklaces and bracelets; and the earring in every
thing but brilliants is most fashionable of the
hoop form. Shoes in a general way are of jean
or kid, the colour of the hat or mantle. In the
evening dress they are usually of painted kid;
white jean or satin with gold or silver rosets.
Gloves, except in full dress, are entirely an article
of choice; but the Limerick, York tan, and
white kid, are those selected by the female of
taste and propriety. The most prevailing colours
for the season are, pale or spot lilac primrose,

of the fashionable and youthful female. The
bosoms of full dresses are universally made so
high as to ask no aid from the neckerchief; but
we still look in vain for a modest veil to shade
the back and the shoulders. We cannot conceive
how the sex can so degenerate from their wonted
ideas of taste, judgment, and delicacy, as to con-
tinue this unbecoming display. We lament the
more exceedingly this impolitic and gross custom;
as in other instances the taste and elegance of our
English Belles stand at this moment unrivalled.
The costume à la Mary Queen of Scots, is at
this moment selected by a few individuals whose
rank and fortunes give them a title to that sin-
gularity, which in a more obscure situation, would
be out of place and unbecoming. But as this
style of decoration can never be consistently
adopted by the many, we recommend the simple
frill of double vandyke lace, gathered easily full
round the back and terminating at the corner of
each shoulder in front. With either muslin or
coloured crape dresses, this embellishment is
highly advantageous to the figure. Sashes gene-
rally form a part of the evening dress; they are
of three kinds. The short sash of ribbon simply ||
tied behind. The long sash terminating on the
left side with acorn tassels; and the Persian sash
à la militaire; but it should be remembered that
a sash of any kind can only be a graceful append-
age to a plain dress. It is but an aukward incum-apple blossom and pea-green.
brance where any kind of drapery is introduced;
and when the robes are ornamented up the front,
it is a supernumerary which destroys one pleasing
effect without producing another. In the article
of hats and bonnets, we are enabled to give an
extensive communication. Hats of the satin,
straw, or imperial chip of the Gipsy form, with
the bee-hive crown, together with the cottage
bonnet and provincial poke, are the morning
wear of such females as would exhibit an ex-
ternal distinguishing, retired, and elegant; but
the French bonnet of coloured sarsnet, fancifully
and variously formed, is the most novel and select
for the evening, or carriage costume. Nothing
can be more simply attractive, than these very
becoming ornaments. It would occupy too much
space to dwell minutely on this article; suffice
it that they are generally of the irregular poke
form, shallow or deep, as best suits with the
countenance or taste of the wearer; they are
generally ornamented with French puffing; but
as this is considered by many too set and formal
a trimming for the edge, a full roll of puckered
sarsnet, not unfrequently supplies its place. With
these bonnets are sometimes seen the large flow-
ing tippet, or cottage whisk, composed of the
same material, trimmed with thread lace. Morn-
ing dresses are made high in the neck, with a deep
scolloped collar, which is confined round the

LETTER ON DRESS,

DESCRIPTIVE OF THE FASHIONS FOR KENSING-
TON GARDENS.

Sunday Night, May 24, 1807.

I was at church in the morning, dear Julia, and heard a most comfortable discourse on the virtues of benevolence, and charity, &c. &c. and not finding any interdiction to harinless recreation, at three o'clock I willingly accompanied my tonish cousins to that splendid resort of beauty and fashion, called Kensington Gardens. A packet is, I find, going to Cornwall to-morrow, and though not exactly according with the rules of the vicarage, I trust I may be pardoned this once, devoting the present evening to friendship, fashion, and you. In all my letters, dear Julia, I have endeavoured to give you a faithful detail of the fashions and customs of that world I have for many months been destined to inhabit, and when I seal up my packets, so full of variety, I feel no despair of procuring any novel communication for my subsequent epistles. But so fertile in taste and invention is the ever varying Goddess, and so rich in splendour and elegance are our Belles at this gay season, that I am more puzzled with the redundancy than pained by the scantiness of her offerings. Had that wish (ever near my

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