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THE LADIES' TOILETTE; OR, ENCYCLOPEDIA OF BEAUTY.,'
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The object of dress is undoubtedly to please. 11 assume that of men, loses all the graces of her To attain this end it is necessary that dress should sex, without obtaining any of the advantages of dexterously set off the charms of a woman, that ours. Is she handsome! the male costume will it should display to advantage her captivating very ill become her. Does the dress of our sex, forin, and tend to develope her native graces, on the contrary, become her well? this very cirThose females who adopt the costume of the cumstance accuses her of a form by no means other sex, seem ignorant of what tends to en adapted to her sex; she is no longer a handsome hance the effect of their charms.
woman. Wherefore, then, do women assume The male costume destroys all the advantages a costume with which they can, at best, but which the fair sex has received from nature; and make themselves look ridiculous! 58 women, by adopting this costume, relinquish all' It is true that it is not always the desire of the means of seduction with which nature has pleasing that induces women to adopt a disguise endowed them.
which, under every circumstance, is so ill ad pred If women appear pleasing in the eyes of the 10 them. The love of change, of novelty, and other sex, it is because they are women; nobody, I still more the desire of unlimited liberty, these I
presume, will dispute this principle. The at are the motives that lead them to sacrifice cheertraction, therefore, consists, in the difference of fully the graces of their sex, in order to obtain a sex; consequently, that must be the most vo small portion of what they term the felicity of luptuous dress which displays this difference in ours; for, it should be observed, by the way, the most striking manner. Establish a similarity that women think the enjoyment of perfect liof dress between the two sexes, confound their berty the greatest of earthly blessings. Accordcostume, and you destroy, in the eyes of the men, ingly, they appear less beautiful in our eyes, for the charm which captivates them.
the purpose of appearing less amiable; they reThe dress of women should differ in every point linquish almost all their physical advantages, in froin that of men. This difference ought even order to give us a bad notion of their moral quato extend to the choice of stuffs;
lities! they consent to renounce the qualities of woman habited in cloth is less feminine than if
their own sex, to prove to us that they have the she were clothed in transparent gauze, in light || faults of ours ! maslin, or in soft and shining silk. What wo I should imagine that when women assume man is there but would please us more in an the male habit, it proceeds either from injudicious elegant robe than in one of those inassive coquetry, a propensity to change, or a love of riding dresses, which produce such a bad effect, liberty. These causes, in general, are but temespecially on women who are not tall, and have
porary, and the female who acts only from such rather too much embonpoint. Perhaps women frivolous motives, soon becomes disgusted with have gained nothing by adopting shoes as flat as a disguise which affords so little compensation. those of men, which give them a firm and bold But there are females who adopt this costume step, not exactly adapted to their sex. God for from decided preference, who constantly wear it, bid that I should wish to revive those heels of whom it even sui's extremely well, and who are such extravagant and ridiculous height; but awkward in female liabiliments, to such we have were there a greater contrast between the women's notbing to say; nature missed her aim in creating shoes and ours, the former wonld appear the them, she produced only mutilated men, and we handsomer for it. An author has observed, that are at present addressing ourselves to none but there is somewhat frminine in every thing that pleases. In my opinion the inverse of this pro Such was the celebrated native of Tonnerre, position is equally true, and I would say,-in who has so long gone by the appellation of the every thing that is feminine there is somewhat Chevalier d'Eon; such is also the less famous pleasing.
but not less valiant female of thirty', who, being. A female who relinquishes her proper dress to abandoned fifteen or sixteen years ago by her
lover, renounced her sex, and listening only to is esteemed by the officers, and respected by the
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SCENE V.-Sabina at Breakfast; Myrrhina given in charge to the Philosopher.
Two Pages, the most beautiful of any in the || wine, to be handed to the Domina, after she had household of the rich Sabina, dressed in the eaten as many of the figs as she pleased. For in forát Egyptian linen, and with their hair elegantly regard to the qualiiy of her breakfast Sabina most curled, this morning brought the Domina her inplicitly observed the prescription, of her young breakfast earlier than she was accustomed to order | physician, the Greek Archigeres; who was him. it. In general Sabina did not take this repast self, at least in this point, a faithful follower of till just before she went to the bath. But as she lleraclides of Tarentum, who had in the strongest had resolved to go abroad at an earlier hour, that manner recominended figs to be taken with hot she might be present at the review, an alteration wine. was made in this particular, and the pages were This sight, however, would have been of little ordered to bring their mistress her breakfast while advantage to the wretched Latris had not the slie was at her toilette. One of them carried a faithful domestic philosopher, the stoic Zenothesilver kettle from which issued the vapors of the mis, presented himself at the same time as the hissing water. The other had in his hand an
pages, in the most ludicrous habiliments ibat can elegant basket in which eight of the finest figs, of possibly be conceived, before the whole assembly the kind called callistrulhis, which were particu. in the dressing room of the Domina. Let the Jarly esteemed on account of their rose-coloured reader figure to himself a man pretty far advanced seed were spread upon fresh vine-leaves. On a in years, with a bald head, and a long bushy beard handsome waiter, of African citron-wood, he reaching almost down to the waist. Let him fare brought a small fiask of Chios wine, and two ther imagine the whole stock of the wardrobe of silver goblets, one for hot water and the other for a philosopher of those days, the Grecian mantle No. XVI, Vol. II.
and one single under.garnent, or woollen shirt || thing, nor want many inir-aties.” Ti is natural without sleeves, wbich scarcely descended to the to suppose that our Zenothemis could not make knees, affording a full view of legs covered only | any other reply than that the Domina had only by hair, and feet, the soles of which were protect to signify her commands. “I would not ask it ed only by a board; in a word, a philosopher in of you,” continued the lade, throwing back her a mantie and beard, a Graculus, such as were veil with a graceful air, and displaying all her then to be found by hundreds in the houses and charms, like the full moon which appears more retinue of the haughty Romans. They were, in. brilliant when issuing from behind a cloud-"I deed, as essential a requisite in the household of would not ask it of you, did I not know that you a person of distinction as a Capuchin formerly possess the best heart in the world, and that you was in the family of a Polish grandee, or a domes. are a man on whose attention and good nature I tic Abbé in the houses of the French nobility be can place perfect reliance. Will you have the fore the revolution, for the amusement of a beauti- goodness 10 take my Myrrhina in the carriage ful Marquise. This venerable gentleman from with you, and to see that she may want for noZeno's gallery, half out of breath, and aniniated thing? The poor thing is big and very near her with duteous zeal, is now bringing in luis mantle time. I cannut trust her with my servants; the to the Domina the whole hopeful litter of the careless rascals pay no attention to myself; how much beloved Myrrhina, of Sabina's Maltese then wcuid they beliave to the poor animal? You bitch together with the lying-in lady herself. Hie will confer an extraordinary fasour by undertaking therefore surprizes the Domina with the most this commission. I should be inconsolable were convincing proof that the charming, tender, lovely, any accident to beful the pour creaiure. Yes, intelligent Myrrhina, who barks only at her ene dear Zenoihemis, I read compliance wish my remy or her husband, but otherwise is good-nalure quest in your eyes, and in fact the animal deserves itself, has been delivered the preceding night on as much for her attention to you. You know the same mantle in which he was now bringing she made not the least noise, the day bufore yesthem, of three mose beautiful and enchanting terday, when I was bathing, and you read me the young lion-dogs. Nothing, indeed, could be affecting essay on the perishable nature of our inore ludicrous than see how the diminutive earthly bodies, and proved with such eloquence mother, wrapped in a green clothi, peeped out that this body is only an animated corpse, and no from the mantle of the wise Zenothemis, and now
better than a leathein case." yelped with her delicate voice, after the manner How could Zenothemis, when intreated by of her species, alternately licked the hairy chin such a lady in so moring a manner, and wi:hull of the grave philosopher, and her young ones,
but tears, and ai the same tiine reminded of one who already began to stretch forth their snouts,
of the most interesting situations of his Villegiaand yet coritinued to find something to clean in
turu, act otherwise than promise to do every thing both. The fact that no inconsiderable relics
she wanted. The bitch, carefully wrapped up, of the supper of the preceding night still adhered was placed in the old gentleman's lap, and the to the bushy beard of the stoic,
group of the philosopher wish the prodigious That the reader may not be too much astonished
beard, and i he little Malicse dog on his lap, and at this description, we shall introduce an extract the big-headed dwarf by his side, was so unique from Sabina's private journal, which gives the
in its kind, that as the carriage proceeded along most satisfactory explanation on this suoject. It the l'ia Appia towards Rome, there was no velis there related that Sabina did not retum from turino, and no passenger either on horseback or her country scat, in Campania, lill i wo days be on foot, but sopped ind burst into a loud fit of fore, and had as usual brought back to town in laughter. On their arrivalin Rome, the lady sent her suite the domestic philosopher Zenothemis. her trus:y Clio to him, urgently requesting him Before their departure he had been brought into to keep the poo: auima), which hail 'now grown the most mor ifying dilemma. Instead of accom acquainted with him, till she had pupped; adding, panying the Domina in her comfortable and con. good care should be taken that the favorite should venient carriage, he was obliged to resign his place neither want for well-fed goose's livers, nor for to her cousin, Saturninus, and to put up with the sesamus cakes. Sabina knew that though he coinpany of Sabina's ugly dwarf, Thersites, in a talked so loudly in praise of virtue, yet, nolwithtwo wheeled Gallic cabriolet. But this was far standing all his animadver:ions on epicurism and from being the worst. The Domina desired to the pleasures of the palate, he was nothing less speak with him before they set off. “Dear Zeno than an obstinate contemner of good tiving. themis," said she, “I have a particular favour to She had observed how much he had privately ask of you; you have it in your powerio oblige, given in a napkin to the servant at his feet, at the me exceedingly. It is, to be sure, taking a great last great entertainment, and was aware that he liberty, but I know that you never refuse me any would not be able to resist the temptation of liv:
ing by dividing the above-mentioned delicacies the whole time in profound silence in his cage, with the lap-dog. Nor was she deceived ; Zeno- || adorned wiih gold, ivory, and silver, just at this themis shared the inconveniences of his charge, moment, as though it had been preconcerted, and the pleasure of the messes prepared for her, began to cry out repeatedly : “Bravo! bravo !" and nuw came to give an account of the rich pro screaming and making a most hideous noise. duce of the preceding night.
This scene, not a little mortifying to our do. The muscles of the sternest Medusa-head must mestic philosopher, Sabina suddenly terminated have relaxed at this spectacle, and have command-by a single thunder-threatening contraction of ed silence to its hundred hissing snakes. Sabina her well-blacked eye-brows. The little Myrherself, was obliged against her will to assume a rhina was placed in a small basket, where she was gentler air and to suffer her female attendants to accustomed to repose on pillows filled with soft indulge their risibility unpunished. “The finest feathers: and as she skewed signs of great thirst, of these figs, dear Zerothemis shall be yours, if she had given her a cup of the asses milk that reyou, whose poetic talents are so well known to us, nained after supplying the purposes of the Docan recite a pretty little Greck poe:n on this most mina's toilette, and stood in a silver mug on a happy occurrence!” –Thus exclaimed Sabina to small table in a corner. the philosopher, who had made his
into the " Has Tryphon, the bookseller, yet published midst of her attendants, holding up the largest of | Atistippus's poem, addressed to Lais onilier lookthe figs that lay in the basket. Zenothemis, who, ling-glass, dear Zenothemis ?" As her stoic friend like almost all his industrious countrymen, could was unable to give a satisfactory answer to this exercise a dozen other arts and sciences besides question, because he had not stirred a step the his proper profession, the stoic philosophy, im- preceding day, that Myrrhina miglit not be left muliately produced the following epigram, which unattended, Sabina requested him now to make has been introduced, by what accident we know the necessary inquiries concerning the above not, into the Grecian garland, among the epigrams mentioned work, which she expected with the of a certain Addæus:
utmost iinpatience. “When the little Myrrhina was ready to drop “And inquire also,” said she, as he was just with her heavy burden, Diana immediately sent going to draw the curtain of the door behind her relief. The goddess does not appear only to him, “whether any new Milesian tale has apthriving women; she likewise assists mothers of lipeared ? Tuccia talked a great deal at Baiæ, about the canine race, which is under her especial pro a new performance of one Xenophon of Ephesus. tection as the goddess of the chace."
If I récollect right the title was, 'Amours of “ What was it that Carmion whispered to you Anthias and Habrokom. You would exceedCho, at which you laugh so immoderately?” ingly oblige me, if you could bring it with you." said Sabina. Clio, who was heartily vexed at Thus spoke Sabina. But it did not escape her the bearded philosopher, because he had with his penetrating eye that Zenothemis was filled with awkwardness, a few days before in the country, great indignation against the looking-glass of the broken a beautiful vase which Sabina had recei- licentious Aristippus, and had muttered to himved as a present from one of her admirers at the self something about “
puppy” and good for bath, of Baia, and had directed it to be carefully | nothing fellow.” For this disobedience it was preserved as a too perishable memento of love.- necessary that the much mortified stoic should Clio replied aloud, and without reserve: receive immediate panishment. He was there. mion was only asking me, how long our stoic fore charged with the commission to enquire for preacher of virtue had belonged to the canine sect, | Milesian tales, and to pander for the vitiated and had become a cynic (a deg-philosopher)?” palate of his mistress, instead of Clin, who else
The officious Cypassis being directed by a mo was accustomed to select the most luscious, licention of her mistress to relieve the philosopher from rious works for the perusal of the Donna, and had the burden of his charge and her litter, the saucy only the day before brought her a new edition, with girl took this opportunity, under the pretext that curious figures, of the noted Matæotechnia of poor Myrrhina had entangled herself in the old || Elephantis. Poor Zenothemis, what would thy gentleman's bushy beard, to pull it handsomely, ll glorious ancestors, Zeno and Cleanthes, have said and at the same time to give the philosopher re to their degenerate descendant, who, spite of his peated slaps in the face, first with one hand and philosopher's beard, was obliged to humble himthen with the other, and to play a hundred tricks self to the offices of a chamber-maid, or rather under the appearance of shewing respect, but in of a pimp! How low would thy skin have sold at fact to muke sport. The most singular circum the auction of philosophers. stance was, that a parrot which had been perched
[To be continued.] сс 2
apon me as a visionary being; for the wonders to
tention to meddle in the least with divination ; I
never could conceive how it was possible for MY DEAR FRIEND,
reasonable people to grant any confidence to I must yield to your request, and try to gra vain predictions, founded on the features of the tify your curiosity, regardless of the trouble it face and the hand, the supposed relations existwill occasion me; for in this instance the dictates in between new-born children and the constela of friendship are more powerful than those of lations of heaven, and the resemblance they reason, and I will cease to remonstrate against sometimes bear to animals. Your mind, as well what you wish me to do. I am conscious, how as mine, is far from bestowing any credit upon ever, that in the minds of some people, I shall these fallacious ravings, which infict sorrow up., pass for a magician; others, a little more en on those whom they threaten, and deceive those lightened, will deem me an erring follower of whom they Aatter. I will carefully avoid every philosophy; and the world in general will look || thing that tends to the marvellous; and if I seein
to lead you towards it, do not think that I wander wrought by the perfect knowledge of physiog- || from the path of nature, but that I merely unfold nomy are sufficiently astonishing to justify these some of her productions, of which till then you various opinions; yet, whatever judgment may were ignorant. What I shall tell you will be be passed upon me, let your gratitude (for the clear and natural, for a true physiognomist nesacrifice I am about to make, entitles me to it) ver reveals what a person will be, but what it think as favourably of me as before, and excuse ought to have been. It is beyond his reach to the enthusiasm that will fire my soul, as I treat dive into future events, but he is able to discoof such a subject, as being occasioned by the ver how you would behave should you be placed ardent desire I feel of pleasing you. Let the in trying situations. He can only perceive what sweets of increasing friendship soothe the pangs || immediately proceeds from the being upon whom of disappointment, in case I should fail in this
he bends the powers of his observation, but, beld attempt] demand no higher reward. whatever is foreign to him remains concealed
It is customary for new writers to choose sub behind a veil. He will explore the true tem per jects wliich have never, at least very seldom, | of a man, but never presume to forin an opinion been explored by others; and that of physiogno- l of the fate that awaits him; his glance will pemy still offers a wide fieli to the attentive observer;
netrate into the secret of his talents, but not inco yot, it is not its novelty that engages me to she use he may make of them, for he will only seize the pen. The most useful arts and the
kuow what might have been done with them.. sciences, held in the greatest veneration, owe The most important point is to prove that the their existence to the bold inventive genius of physiognomy of human beings is but the matesome human beings; and many, who by their rial image of the soul; that their external apcontemporaries were esteemed as enthusiastic
pearances enable us to judge of their internal pase madmen, are now honoured with the appel sions, and that the various features of their face lation of wise and courageous benefactors of are sufficient, without extending our observations Jiankind. But this reflection does not embolden any farther, to unravel their inclinations, talenis, me; for the hope of having my name venerated
and capacities. Will not every one allow that by posterity does not overbalance the wish of be.
the science which thus opens to our view the ing reckoned, whilst I live, a man of sense. ! mysteries of the heari, may become, should it prefer enjoying present glory, however small ever be seitled on a solid basis, most, useful is my share of it may me, to expecting that the society? could any other be then put in compaa, most distinguishing respects should be paid to rison with it? But it is useless, you will say, 10 my ashes; and though my name be obscure, wish to settle this interesting science on a solid my ambition does not lead me to envy that of basis, it is longing for a good which we never can others. From all this it is plain that I can have obtain, and then you fix boundaries to this study no other motive in writing than that of pleasing which you fancy it is impossible to pass. You my friend, and without any further assertions to believe that speeches and actions are the only prove that it is really my end, I will proceed to certain channels of information, and that I know fulfil iny promise.
how to adapt what I have heard of a person's Imust inform you first that it it not my in character to his physiognomy, so as to pronounce