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and are an ornament generally becoming: but || thy friend? Not content with my faithful deli for unobtrusive neatness, and unstudied grace, the half-handkerchief of lace, in white or colours, embroidered in white, gold, or silver, admits of no competitor: they must ever be considered an ornament of much attraction; and only require a little judgment in their disposition to give an advantageous effect. The coronet, à-la-Cleopatra, formed of diamonds and rubies, is a new and splendid ornament for the front of the hair, and is frequently worn with the half handkerchief. Indeed the diadem and tiara, together with bandeaus of steel, gold, and foil, rank amidst the fashionable ornaments of the season.

neations of the most rare and select costumes, but you must know the persons by whom, and the occasions on which they are worn. Cruel encroacher! do I not give you morning and evening, full and half dress? And what would you more? You surely do not want to be told that you must not wear your Parisian chemise at a rout, nor your silver muslin at breakfast!. and the same style of costume which is displayed at the Marchioness of Salisbury's assemblies, may be consistently adopted at the Countess of | Buckinghamshire's card parties. The style must on all occasions be preserved; the effect must rest with the individual; and will necessarily vary, as to grace and elegance, in proportion to that degree of correct perception which distin

Trinkets continue, with some few additions, on par with our last report. Necklaces of diamonds, or other precious stones, consist of one row, very large in the centre, and gradually de-guishes the several wearers. But you ask by whom such and such dresses were displayed.Why, my dear Julia, do you imagine that a London assembly is like a Truro ball-a collec oftion of fifteen or twenty couple-where a stranger of address has nothing more to do, but to sport a little graciously with the steward, and he is instantly informed the name of each individual, with his pedigree and character into the bargain. But here, my Julia, amidst an assemblage of four or five hundred, you can scarcely distinguish your nearest relation; and when, attracted by the appearance of any one, I eagerly ask Mary"who is that lovely creature?" Before she can

ble part of full dress; York tan, or Limerick, is most esteemed on other occasions; but in this article, the taste of the wearer is in general a sufficient guide. The prevailing colours are shaded dove, pink, jonquille, violet, and mo

rone.

creasing in size towards the ends; they are ge nerally set transparent. With these necklaces the earring is shaped in a small pear form; but is otherwise in the style of a hoop, or octagon, dimensions larger than we ever remember them. The cable necklace, with patent snaps, in form of a ferule, in pearl or beads, with bracelets to correspond, is a new and very attractive ornament. The armlet is universally of hair, or a broad gold hoop; sometimes the hair is interwoven with pearl, or steel beads. Dress shoes are of white satin, jean, or kid, either plain, embroidered, or painted; undress, of brown or dove kid. White kid gloves form an indispensa-perceive to which I allude, another fair fashionable presents herself; and the power of individualizing is lost in the elegant confusion. Thus, then, having said so much of generals, I trust I am at full liberty to descend to particulars. Let me then begin by telling you that Mary returned to us three weeks since, and brought with her a very interesting and long-tried friend, who considerably embellishes and improves our family circle. She has been married some years, but is still very young, very pretty, and very rich.Ah! Julia, how much is comprehended in those two last words! The world says every thing! but I only say, that riches set off our good qualities to the best advantage, and makes even amiability appear more amiable; while, on the contrary, poverty throws a veil over our very virtues. Scold me, Julia, in your next, for all this; for unless chastised, I shall never leave off this vulgar moralizing habit. Nothing for the last fortnight can exceed the avidity with which we have engaged in every fashionable amusement. Morning levees, and drives to the most celebrated shops, dinner, and evening parties, have occupied each succeeding day. And I assure you, that the trio from Portman-square, consisting of Mary, Mrs. K (her friend above alluded to), and humble me, made some little

LETTER ON DRESS, EXPLANATORY AND DESCRIPTIVE, FROM ELIZA TO JULIA.

YES, dearest Julia! I do indeed love you with "unabated tenderness!" therefore teaze me no more with your little jealousies, but do justice to your own worth, and my unshaken regard.

I decline making one at the Pic Nic this evening, for the purpose of transmitting you my promised intelligence. It is expected to be most splendidly attended; and Madame Catalani (that unrivalled enchantress of the musical world) is to sing. But true friendship, dear Julia, makes a willing sacrifice, and repays itself in the pleasure it bestows: therefore, while the inhabitants of this gay mansion are engaged, gratifying the eye and the ear, to Julia, and Cornwall, I dedicate my hand, and my heart. Yet, why, dear Ingrute, do you exact so much from

buz at the Marchioness of D's last grand assembly. Relax thy brow, my fair friend, and I will reward thy patience with a description of our several costumes. And first in train is Mrs. K. Her dress, a simple round gown, of the most pliant and glossy white satin, with short train, a frock sleeve, and wrap front; trimmed round the bottom, cuff, and bosom, with silver net, about a nail in depth. A patent net shawl, of bright morone, embroidered in a light and elegant border of silver, and slightly spotted with the same. This ornament is so disposed as to constitute the Tunic, or shawl dress, fully described in my last. Her hair was twisted in a kind of loop at the back of the head, and fell in irregular curls in front, increasing in length from the left temple, and confined with a bandeau of diamonds. A single brilliant of striking magnitude formed the brooch, which confined the dress at the bosom. Her necklace was one row of diamonds, very large in the centre. Earrings of correspondent splendour. Bracelets and armlets of seed-pearl, with rich diamond clasps. A gold watch, with chain of the most delicate workmanship, composed of dead and bright gold, finished at the swivel with an oval cornelian; from whence is suspended six most elegant small seals of the same, variously shaded, with a curious key of wrought gold, finished with a brilliant in the centre. The devices engraved on these seals render this an ornament of much interest; they are entitled Cupid's Progress! Although it will occupy much of my time, I cannot forbear giving you a particular description of a trinket, which is likely to become an indispensable part of a fashionable and tasteful costume.

The first seal is intended to represent Love surprised, or Cupid's first meeting with a heart; the second, Love musing, or Cupid in thoughtful mood, leaning on the end of his bow, which is reversed; the third, Love's aim, or Cupid in the act of darting his arrow at the heart; the fourth, Love delighted, or Cupid with his hands clasped, in an extacy of joy at having wounded the heart, which is represented with the arrow infixed; the fifth, Love triumphant, or Cupid placing two hearts on an altar; the sixth, Time crowning Love, or the figure of Time placing a chaplet on the head of Cupid. The thought which directed these ingenious and interesting devices, owes its origin to the tasteful and elegant set of drawings, designed by the Princess Elizabeth some time since, and are admirably adapted for the ornament they embellish. Now then, dear Julia, having said so much of her friend, let me hasten to do justice to the taste of my charming relative. Mary wore a Circassian robe of Moravian muslin over a white satin under-dress. The

robe flowed loose from the back, was fastened on each shoulder with large emerald brooches, and bordered all round with gold embroidery in the form of small bulrushes; on her head she wore a gold net half square, tastefully disposed; ene end of which was brought under the chin, and fastened behind the adverse ear. A row of fine emeralds bound and divided her tresses on the forehead, and contrasted happily with its alabaster hue. Her ornaments were of blended pearl and emeralds : her shoes of white satin, embroibered in a gold laurel leaf at the toe; white crape opera fan, ornamented with a rich border of gold spangles and frost-work. And now, my friend, last and least, came simple me, in a frock of undrest crape, with a white brocade ribbon laid flat round the bottom, bosom, and sleeves; and finished at the extreme edge with a narrow silver trimming; the front of the waist biassed, and the sleeve of the Spanish form; a round bosom, with a fall of Mechlin lace. My hair in a simple band on one side, tightly twisted behind, and brought in full flowing ringlets on the other; two rows of pearl formed the banbeau, which was fastened in front of the forehead with the same, set in the form of a large shell. My necklace and bracelets were very ele gant, being a present from cousin John on my birth-day. They were composed of seed coral, twisted in the form of a cable; and fastened with the patent ferule snap of richly wrought gold. These necklaces are vastly elegant, and the dis tinguishing article in that style of ornament.They are often composed of pearl, with the ferrule snap of diamonds; and those whose slender fortune will not allow of costly trinkets, have them formed of small coloured beads, or patent pearl. I observed at the opera (whither we went last Saturday) that the tiura had given great place to the bandeau. The half handkerchief obtains unrivalled popularity; but much taste is necessary to render it a becoming ornaLet me guard you, dear Julia, against wearing your's under the chin. With a pale and interesting countenance, it produces but a sickly effect. The coldness of the season has obliged the adoption of some warm wrap in public; accordingly at the opera we see the peasant's cloak of scarlet kersey mere; but these are now entirely eclipsed by the opera cloak of white satin, trimmed with gossamer fur, and the Polish robe of the same material. This surely must be considered as a most judicious variation; for, in a place of fashionable resort, we naturally expect a little uniformity, and one would rather look like a gentlewoman than a marketwoman on such occasions.

ment.

Farewell, dear, dear Julia !-I go to my pil

As the queen left no less than three thousand

low, impressed with your image.-Sweet sleep! the kind restorer, may possibly bring me to Corn-different habits in her wardrobe when she died, wall and you,-Good night!-Ever, and for and was possessed of the dresses of all countries, ELIZA. ever, your it is somewhat strange that there is such a uniformity of dress in her portratis, and that she should take a pleasure in being loaded with orna

ments.

ANTIQUARIAN RESEARCHES,

INTO THE ORIGIN AND DIVERSITIES OF
COSTUME.

sex.

We are informed by several antiquaries, that in the time of Ann, Richard the Second's queen, the women of quality first wore trains; the same queen introduced side-saddles.

It is recorded in the reign of Henry the Eighth, "that Anne Boleyne wore yellow mourning for Catharine of Arragon."

The reign of Mary is supposed to be the æra of ruffs and farthingales, as they were first brought hither from Spain. Howell tells us in his letters, "that the Spanish word for a farthingale, literally translated, signifies cover-infant, as if it was intended to conceal pregnancy; it is perhaps of more honourable extraction, and might signify cover-infunta. A blooming virgin in that age seems to have been more solicitous to hide her skin, than a shrivelled old woman is at present; the very neck was generally concealed; the arms were covered quite to the wrists; the petticoats were worn long, and the head gear, or coifure, close; to which was sometimes fastened a light veil, which fell down behind, as if intended occasionally to conceal even the face."

SIR,

You have, without doubt, sufficiently employed yourself upon the subject of which I am about to treat, to know that fashion is not a creature of modern times; but that gowns, caps, hats, and petticoats, have their pedigree and illustrious descent, as well as other things. I, Mr. Editor, am an antiquarian, and have endeavoured to amuse the dryness of my studies, by occasionally converting them to the purposes and amusements of the fair sex; and having in my reading, discovered the origin and inventions of certain dresses, many of which are now worn, some obsolete, and others newly revived, I have undertaken to form my discoveries into a letter, and through the medium of your BELLE As-pressed with ornaments, and she appears to have SEMBLEE, to offer them at the shrine of the fair

The head of the Countess seems to be op

exposed more of the bosom than was seen in any former period.

The ladies began to indulge a strong passion for foreign laces in the reign of James, which rather increased than abated in succeeding generations.

REIGN OF ELIZABETH.

Edward Vere, the seventeenth Earl of Oxford, was the first that introduced embroidered gloves and perfumes into England, which he brought from Italy. He presented the queen with a pair of perfumed gloves, and her portrait was painted with them upon her hands.

No. XV. Vol. II.

At this time the stays and bodies were worn long-waisted. Lady Hunsdon, the foremost of the ladies in the procession to Hunsdon-House, appears with a much longer waist than those that follow her. She might possibly have been a leader of the fashion as well as of the procession.

JAMES I.

Wilson informs us that the Countess of Essex, after her divorce, appeared at Court" in the habit of a virgin, with her hair pendant and almost to her feet." The Princess Elizabeth, with much more propriety, wore her's in the same manner, when she went to be married to the Prince Palatine.

worn.

The ruff and farthingale still continued to be Yellow starch for ruffs, first invented by the French, and adapted to the sallow complexion of that people, was introduced by Mrs. Turner, a physician's widow, who had a principal hand in poisoning Sir Thomas Overbury. This vain and infamous woman, who went to be hanged in a ruff of that colour, helped to sup port the fashion so long as she was able: it began to decline upon her execution.

The ladies, like those of Spain, were banished from court during the reign of James, which was perhaps a reason why dress underwent very little alteration during that period.

It may not be impertinent to remark, that the lady of Sir Robert Cary, afterwards Earl of Mon mouth, was mistress of the sweet (or perfumed). coffers to Ann of Denmark; an office which answered to that of mistress of the robes at pre

sent.

CHARLES I.

Ladies wore their hair low on the forehead, and parted in small ringlets. Many wore it curled like a peruke, and some braided and rounded in a knot at the top of the crown: they frequently wore strings of pearls in their hair; ear-rings, necklaces, bracelets, and other jewels, were also much worn.

X

Laced handkerchiefs resembling the large falling band worn by the men were in fashion among 'the ladies; this article of dress has been lately revived, and called a Vandyke.

Cowley, in his discourse "On Greatness," censures some enormities in the dress of his time, in the following terms:-"Is any thing more common than to see our ladies of quality wear such high shoes as they cannot walk in without one to lead them? and a gown as long again as their body, so that they cannot stir to the next room without a Page or two to hold it up."

CHARLES I.

The citizens' wives in his reign seem to have had their domestic sumptuary laws, and to have adopted the frugal maxims of their husbands; there appears from Hollar's habits, to have been a much greater disparity in point of dress betwixt them and the ladies of quality than betwixt the former and the wives of our present yeomanry. [To be continued.]

ORIGINAL LETTER,

Written by the celebrated Duke de la Rochefousault his niece; which never appeared in any collection of his works.

You have acted very prettily, truly, to marry without saying a word to me on the subject; I however, can tell you that I would have given you some very good advice: but the excellence of your disposition, has, without doubt, taught you, what should be your conduct on such an occasion. I would, however, have wished to have witnessed your behaviour; and I expect you to give me a faithful relation of it; for unless you do this, instead of prosperity, I shall wish you-I shall wish you impossibilities, mutual jealousy, opposition of temper, a father-in-law in love with you, an illnatured mother-in-law, quarrelsome brothers-inlaw, tiresome sisters-in-law, replete with provincial politeness, and fond of reading bad romances; smoke in winter, fleas in summer, unpleasant neighbours, tenants who never pay their rents, lawsuits, dishonest servants, a bad cook, a waiting maid who cannot comb your hair, a bigot for your confessor, a carriage drawn by restive horses, a drunken coachman, dirty linen, bad water, sour wine, mouldy bread, importunate duns, a litigious magistrate, greyhounds beside your fire, cats on your bed, a long-winded and stupid parson, a curate who deems himself a poet. I would speak of the children, but this is not an impossibility, and there. fore before I say two much I will hold my tongue. Come and see me, then, to escape these misfor. tunes, and to prove yourself worthy of the happiness that awaits you, if you act as you ought.

THE FINE ARTS.

The following article, which was omitted in its proper place under the head of the Fine Arts, is inserted here, that it may not be lost to the Magazine.

THE Exhibition of the Royal Academy is this year preceded by the separate display of a single picture, the production of one of its members, and of such superior merit, as the Academic catalogue will scarcely vie with in interest and attraction. The subject of this exquisite performance (painted as large as life) is from, The Monody to the memory of a young Lady, well known to most of our readers from its frequent introduction in the poetical miscellanies. The point of time is that, when the wife, while recommending the care of her infant daughter, takes a tender farewell of her husband:

Promise-and I will trust thy faithful vow,
(Oft have I tried, and ever found thee true!)
That, to some distant spot, thou wilt remove
This fatal pledge of hapless Emma's love;
Where safe thy blandishments it may partake,
And oh! be tender for its mother's sake.
Wilt thou?

I know thou wilt-sad silence speaks assent; And, in that pleasing hope, thy Emma dies

content!

BELL'S FUGITIVE POETRY, VOL. IX. While the tear of sympathy is excited by the tender feeling with which these lines appear to be delivered by the female, the pallid colour of whose features are beautifully relieved, by a considerable breadth of half tint; the mind is astonished at the expression of the listening figure-an expression not delineated in the countenance, which, indeed, is entirely observed by the left hand, whilst the right is affectionately locked fast in that of Emma, uniting, in this circumstance, contrast and beauty of colouring which would have done honour to Vandyke. Still more wonderful is the dexterity and taste of the artist, in successfully touching that chord of the human heart which, while it melts with pity, inclines not to turn from a sce scene that calls to the recollection the common lot of all: by a magic we never felt equalled but in the most finished representations of the dramatic science, the careless beholder and the connoisseur are alike impelled to gaze on with increased delight and satisfaction. Whether considered as an effort of composition, colouring, effect, or expres sion, this production must claim a pre-eminence which good fortune can rarely obtain. This chef d'œuvre of Mr. Westall, is on view in Brookstreet, Grosvenor-square.

BIRTHS.

IN Lower Grosvenor-street, Lady Amherst, of

a son.

In Somerset-Place, Lady Thomson, wife of Sir T. B. Thompson, Comptroller of the Navy, of a daughter.

At Pimlico, the Lady of Colonel Elliot, of a daughter.

In Berners-street, the Lady of John Campbell, Esq. M. P. of a son.

The Lady of Colonel Montgomery, M. P. of a

son.

At his father's house, in Welbeck-street, the Lady of the Rev. B. G. Heath, of a son.

At his house in Queen Ann-street West, the Lady of James West, Esq. of a son.

The Lady of A. P. Cumberbatch, Esq. of a

son.

The Lady of Captain C. W. Paterson, of the Royal Navy, of a daughter.

At Fredville, Kent, the Lady of J. Plumptre, of a daughter.

At Beverley, the Lady of Peter Acklom, Esq. of a daughter.

At London, the Lady of Tho. Sheridan, Esq. of a daughter.

In the neighbourhood of Frome, within a few months, five women of thirteen children: the first of four, the next of three, and the remaining of two each, all of which are now living.

MARRIED.

At Mary-le-bone Church, Charles Combe, Esq. of Bloomsbury-square, to Miss Georges, daughter of the late W. Payne Georges, Esq. of Manchester-square, and niece to the Right. Hon. Lord Lavington, Commander in Chief of the Leeward Islands.

At Grantham, Leon. Walbanke Childers, Esq. to Miss Sarah Anne Kent, second daughter of Sir Charles Kent, Bart. of Grantham-house, in the county of Lincoln.

At Martin Worthy, Hants, John Briggs, Esq. of Lincoln's-inn, barrister, to Miss Margaret Malcolm, niece of Admiral Sir Thomas Pasley, bart.

At Morden, E. B. Lousada, Esq. of Devonshire-square, to Miss Goldsmid, eldest daughter of Abrm. Goldsmid, Esq.

At Mary-le-bone Church, Miss Ford, eldest daughter of the late Sir Francis Ford, bart. to Peter Touchet, Esq. Mortimer-street, Cavendishsquare.

At Edinburgh, Mr. John Murray, bookseller in London, to Miss Anne Elliot, daughter of the late Charles Elliot, Esq. bookseller in Edinburgh.

Philip Gibbes, Esq. eldest son of Sir Philip Gibbes, bart. to Maria, third daughter of the late Robert Knipe, Esq. of New Lodge, Herts.

At Mary-le-bone Church, Captain Stuart, of the 16th Light Dragoons, to Miss Anson, youngest daughter of the late George Anson, Esq. and sister to Viscount Anson.

At Wexford, Ireland, Lieutenant Gilbert J. Michel, R. N. to Miss Lucinda Boyd, daughter of James Boyd, Esq. of Wexford.

At Frankley, Worcestershire, J. Haines, Esq. of Forshaw Heath, to Miss Gosling, daughter of Thomas Gosl ng Esq. of the former place.

W. C. Grant, Esq. of the 92d regiment, to the youngest daughter of the Rev. Dr. Milne, of Deptford.

At Castle Douglas, Mr. S. Coosker, aged 20, to Mrs. Margaret Coulthard, aged 36, being the fourth time she has been led to the hymen cal altar.

DIED.

In Dublin, the Countess of Wicklow. She is succeeded in her title by her eldest son the Viscount, now Earl of Wicklow. Her very extensive property devolves upon her second son, the Right Hon. William Forward.

At his house, Great Cumberland-place, Admiral Sir Hyde Parker.

At Edinburgh, Vice-Admiral John Inglis. He commanded the Belliqueux in the battle of Camperdown, and greatly distinguished himself on that occasion.

||

At Falloden, the seat of Lady Grey, Elizabeth Grey, relict of the late George Grey, Esq. and grandmother to Viscount Howick.

At Peckham, Mr. Richard Sause, only son of

In Scotland, M. W. Barnes, Esq. of Reigate, Surrey, to the Hon. Georgiana Catharine Co-Captain Sause, R. N. His death was occasioned ventry, second daughter of Lord Viscount Deerhurst.

by a wound he got in the action of Trafalgar.

At Bath, Benjamin Morris, Esq. In the early part of his life, he pursued the profession of a drawing-master, and was esteemed, in his time, an artist of some eminence. His latter years were remarkable for their wonderous regularity; every day was marked with such precision, that it seldom deviated a single minute in the performance of the exact vocation of the preceding.

In Ireland, the Right Rev. Dr. Peter M'Mahon, titular Bishop of Killaloe.

At Bootle, the Rev. Thomas Smith, rector of the parish, and vicar of Ulverston; and an acting Magistrate for the county palatine of Lancaster, and county of Cumberland.

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