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A French Lady on Twrseback in the fuchernatle stile of riding in the Ling Champs & Elisie at Paris.
Engraven from an original strawing taken on the pot for La Belle Ysemble.
LA BELLE ASSEMBLÉE.
For APRIL, 1807.
EXPLANATION OF THE PRINTS OF FASHION,
Represents a Parisian lady, mounted in the most fashionable style, for the Long Champs and Elyses, at Paris.—An equestrian habit of fine
seal-wool cloth, with elastic strap; the colour blue (but olive, or puce, are equally esteemed), with convex buttons of dead gold. The habit to sit high in the neck behind, lapelled in front, and buttoned twice at the small of the waist; a high plaited frill of cambric, uniting at the bosom where the habit closes. A jockey bonnet of the same materials as composes the habit, finished with a band and tuft in front. Hair in dishevelled crop. York tan gloves; and demi-boots of purple kid, laced with jonquille chord.
No. 1.-A HALF DRESS,
As prepared for the Duchess of Roxburgh, ander the immediate direction of her Grace -A
petticoat and tunic of the clearest French cambric, vandyked all round with the same; the tunic cut in the form of a crescent in front, closed on the left side with a tassel, and continued in a point nearly to reach the bottom of the petticoat, where it finishes with a tassel as above. Long sleeves, vandyked at the wrist, with full tops terminated with a band of open-hems, or lace; front of the waist wrapt to the left side, where the tunic closes. Imperial chip hat, of a light lead-colour, turned up in the form of an arch over the left eye; a band of shaded velvet, with waving brush feather of correspondent hues. Necklace of pearl, linked with dead gold. The unique, and much admired muff and tippet, formed entirely of shaded Turkish feathers, patronized and adopted by the Princesses, and now the distinguishing appendage of all ladies of rank and elegance. This very novel, tasteful, and ingenious ornament is to be obtained at the cele-pleasure dances on the wings of time-when the brated shop, late Dyde's and Scribe's, Pall-Mall.
Ar this season of fashionable festivity, when
ON THE MOST PREVAILING
magic influence of taste and ton, aid the enchanting witcheries of the Loves and the Graces; and nature and beauty disdain not to pay homage at the shrine of genius and art, the triumph of the goddess is complete-she mounts her airy car, wields her sceptre of rainbow hue, exulting in the splendour of her train. Routs, balls, and operas, pic-nics, plays, and sumptuous dinners, are but tests of her popularity, and existing spe
No. 2.-A LADY IN HER OPERA BOX. Her dress a round robe of pliant white satin, made to sit close to the form; trimmed round the bottom, bosom, and sleeves, with gold brocade ribband. The Curacao turban, of white satin, embroidered in spots of raised gold; confined on the forehead with Indian bandeau of the same composition. Necklace one row of fine brilcimens of her all powerful dominion.
liants, from whence is suspended a most curious Egyptian amulet. Earrings and bracelets to correspond. Hair closely confined under the turban behind, and worn in irregular curls in front, divided over the left eyebrow, so as to discover the temple. Rose wood Opera fan, with mount composed of military trophies in transparencies. White kid gloves and shoes.
It would greatly exceed our limits, were we to enter into a minute detail of every particular and varied article which the vivid fancy of each fashionable fair displays. So multiplied are their forms, so diversified their style and hue, that it is only by the most careful attention, that we complete a regular and tasteful selection. But we have pledged ourselves to our fair correspon
dents on this head; and exulting in their suffrage, and emulous of their approbation, we enter on our task with alacrity and pleasure.
Since the introduction of the Polish pelise, we have remarked nothing particularly new in the formation of this article of attire. The texture of which they are now composed, is almost exclusively of twill sarsnet; but various alterations, have taken place in the ornamental part of them. The long flowing robbin is laid aside; the high collar is seldom seen; and the simple folded vest has banished (amidst the most distinguished females) the chimesette of antecedent date. The loose flowing opera coat, with deep pelerine cape, the Polish robe, and the Hibernian vest, as given in our last Number, are selected by the most fashionable fair; but these are chiefly formed of sarsnets, quite plain, the skin trimmings being on the decline. The colours commonly chosen are shaded dove browns, lined with persians, tastefully contrasted. We have lately seen one of silver-dove sarsnet, lined throughout with pale pink, and another of light brown, shot with amber, and lined with a Persian of the latter colour. Hats and bonnets are still worn of correspondent materials; nor do we know of any other at this season, which could be adopted so consistent, and unobtrusively elegant. With females of rank and taste, these articles are generally confined to the three following orders: the Beresford hat, the peasant's bonnet, and equestrian hat. The latter is given in one of our prii.ts of fashion for the last month. The two former are more novel, but not more distinguishable. || round dresses, trimmed with silver or gold velThe throat is now universally covered in the morning costume; and those who have not yet adopted the high Parisian chemise, (or morning wrap) wear the new habit shirt, which is sometimes formed to unite in front, with a high-rounded collar, richly embroidered, and trimmed at the edge with very narrow net; at others, the shirt is finished with buttons on the shoulder, and the collar cut so as to sit close round the chin, and high at the ears: but in either case, lace and work is let in at all points; and in caps, bottoms of dresses, petticoats, and sleeves, this ornament is always seen. Indeed, we never recollect a period when needle-work was so universally fashionable and lamenting (as must every considerate individual) on the few occupations left for the female of fallen fortune, we cannot but give credit to our amiable countrywomen, who thus judiciously unite humanity with elegance and taste. Short dresses of crape, or clear muslin, with long sleeves of lace, are now admitted in the evening costume; and, strange to say, are often seen in full dress! We cannot by any means subscribe to a fashion which destroys that distinguished uniformity, the acknowledged attendant on a
correct taste. A short skirt in full dress must ever be a marked inconsistency; except expressly designed for dancing. The train, however inconvenient, and inimical to the approach of surrounding beaus, gives much dignity and grace to the figure: if banished from the drawingroom, the coup d'ail is destroyed. The exposition of the back and shoulders is still universal in the evening costume; but we think the bosom of dresses are a little advanced of late. The simple wrapt fronts, commencing immediately at the corner of the bosom, and finished at the edge with a trimming, corresponding with that of the dress, is again revived, and is remarkable amidst the peasant's waist, and square-gored front, which contend with it for popularity. Those whose judgment reject the long sleeve for the evening, or full dress, wear the sleeve very short; sometimes we observe a plain frock sleeve of satin, with a high cuff of lace, trimmed at the edge with plaited net, beads, bugles, foil, or silver, as may best unite with the dress. The Spanish, or slashed sleeve, is also very new, and a sleeve, formed in shell-scollops, over white satin, has a chaste and elegant effect. A dress of white crape, ornamented with steel beads, and the Russian hussar cap, with Polish plume, scattered with steel dust, is amidst the splendid novelties of the season. This dress attracted universal attention at the Marchioness of H's last grand assembly. The shawl dress is a most select and tasteful attire, and is usually worn with a white satin or Sarsnet slip; muslin, or crape
vet ribbons, in white, or colours, has a most animated appearance. We observed one of these dresses, with the ribbon laid in waved stripes, at regular distances from the bottom of the waist; the effect was attractive and elegant.. The home costume, or half-dress, (on relinquishing the morning attire) is usually composed of muslin, of divers kinds; plain coloured sarsnets, or Italian crapes. They are chiefly formed in simple round dresses, with wrap fronts; or the peasant's jacket and petticoat, with trimmings of needle
work or ribbon.
The hair exhibits little variety since our last communication. The Grecian style continues as yet unrivalled; but ringlets are often seen flowing irregularly from various points, but chiefly from the left temple: bands are partially admitted. The plait is too general to be ranked with a select delineation; and no female now wears her hair without ornaments. The embroidered cap, a-la-Paysanne, simply tied under the chin, with a ribbon corresponding with its lining, and ornamented with a bunch of wild roses, forms a head-dress of much attraction and simplicity. Demi-wreaths of frosted flowers are also selected,