ing of water at the mouth of an immense bar- | catepetl-caught him asleep, scaled his iceranca leading up to a cleft in the side of the throne at an advantage, and that he was now mountain; and we found that what had been arousing himself to an indignant consciousness frozen solid in the morning when we left was of the fact. We staid not to witness his regal now a formidable torrent, created by the melt- wrath, but drank some hot coffee which our ing of the snows, dashing over rocks and preci- good genius Colonel Cañedo had directed his pices with a voice that echoed far and wide. | men to have ready for us; and then, as the During the night it would freeze again; and this alternation of melting and congealing goes on forever. We looked up toward the crater, but it was hidden in threatening clouds that were hurrying toward the peak as a storm-rendezvous; and already, muttered thunder and faint glimmerings of lightning told of the com-ty-two hours' adventure, and fully resolved ing snow and hail tempest. It seemed as if we never to advise a friend to attempt the ascent had fairly stolen a march on old King Popo- of Popocatepetl. shadows of night began to deepen in the valley, our cavalcade started again for Ameca. At midnight, drenched with the rain and hail which had overtaken us among the mountains, we clattered into the silent village despondent and weary, thoroughly satisfied with our twen THE MONKS OF BASLE. I tore this weed from the rank, dark soil Where it grew in the early time, I trimmed it close, and set it again In a border of modern rhyme. LONG years ago, when the Devil was loose. The song had power on the grim old monks And faith was sorely tried, Three monks of Basle went out to walk A breeze as pure as the breath of heaven Blushed rose o'er the cloister glades. But scorning the lures of summer and sense, In the tough grim talk of the monkish days And whether "Just," or "Justified," Was the Church's mystic Head In the light of the rosy skies, And as they listened the years rolled back, The years rolled back, and they were young, But the eldest monk soon broke the spell: "Perchance the enemy of souls Hath come to tempt us so : To heaven the three monks raised their hands. "We charge thee, speak!" they said, And whether the Bread was changed to God, "By His dread name who shall one day come Or God became the Bread. But of human hearts outside their walls They never paused to dream, To judge the quick and the dead "Who art thou, speak!" The bird laughed loud: "I am the Devil," he said. And they never thought of the love of God The monks on their faces fell; the bird That smiled in the twilight gleam. As these three monks went bickering on A wordless carol of life and love, And the three monks paused in the evening shade, Away through the twilight sped. A horror fell on those holy men So goes the tale of the monkish books; Whose soul is the slave of creed. "Not all in vain with beauty and love THE WALKER RIVER COUNTRY. Mwalker River expedition preparations for the were on a scale of more than usual grandeur. On this occasion I was resolved to travel in a dignified style, according with the gravity and importance of the undertaking. Certain coal and iron mines, recently discovered in that region, had aroused in me that spirit of speculation which had received so disastrous a check in Washoe. I was resolved, since gold and silver ignored my friendly advances, to try what sympathetic virtue there might be in coal and iron. Scouts were sent out all over the town of Aurora to secure the best wheeled vehicle the community could afford; pref crence to be given to a thorough-braced ambulance of Concord manufacture. If that was beyond the resources of enterprise an ordinary furniture wagon might be made available, or at the worst a butcher's job-cart. It so happened that a heavy drain had been made upon the livery-stables by the recent exodus of citizens to the Montgomery district. Wagons of all sorts were in great demand for the transportation of goods, wares, and honest miners to the argentiferous paradise; and the long-continued drought, high price of forage, and constant demand for animals had nearly exhausted the whole horse-creation. Skeleton emigrant horses, scrag-tailed mustangs, galled mules and burros, were in requisition at prices that inspired in the owners sentiments of profound affection for their property. My scout-in-chief, one Timothy Mason, was a man of unlimited genius in his way. Though small in stature he carried a large nose, which enabled him to scent out horses with unerring instinct. He penetrated the wigwams of the Aurorians; dodged into the back-yards and byways; smelled every spot where there was a suspicion of hay, grain, or horse-flesh; and in due course of time announced the glad tidings that he had succeeded in securing a conveyance worthy of President Lincoln "or any other man.' It was a wagon which had crossed the plains during the summer, and could therefore be recommended as thoroughly dried and not likely to fall to pieces by the action of the sun's rays. The bed was somewhat shattered; the springs broken here and there; a few spokes out of the wheels; the hubs cracked, and the tires gone in at occasional intervals; but it was a remarkably tough wagon nevertheless, capable of being stretched or contracted at pleasure without materially injuring its appearance or powers of locomotion. I rather liked Timothy's descrip Horses Thus was every doubt removed. were the chief trouble. Timothy had secured a couple of very fine bloods, rather mortifying in appearance, but of wonderful endurance, since they had lived throughout the entire drought of summer on nothing but sage-brush and alkali and were not yet dead. If I had any pride about the matter of appearance he would borrow a pair of shears and clip their wool a little before we started. "On the contrary, Timothy," said I, "it would be a downright sin to disfigure such noble animals as you have described. I am addicted to the picturesque in nature. I like starved, galled, and woolly-skinned horses. What they lack in flesh and symmetry they will doubtless make up in spirit and variety of outline. So fetch along your nags, Timothy-and don't forget the wagon!" When, in due time, my remarkable equipage appeared in the main street of Aurora ready for a start, I was not surprised that the entire population, without distinction of age or sex. crowded out from every door to enjoy the spectacle. Timothy sat perched upon the remains of the front seat with undisguised triumph beaming from every feature. Sooth to say, I enjoyed the sight myself as much as any body. It was a source of infinite satisfaction to me to be able to travel in such distinguished style, after having roughed it on horseback over in the Mono country. Above you have both wagon and horsesnothing extenuate nor aught set down in malice. In addition to Timothy I had secured the lime formations, and several lime-kilns have services of one Dr. Fanning as guide, caterer, been established close by. The rugged cliffs on and purveyor-general to the expedition. An each side of the cañon are diversified by a reoverflowing, generous, genial soul was the Doc-markable variety of colors, indicating mineral tor; an experienced mountaineer, who had deposits of various kinds. roughed it all over the gold regions of Idaho; . a man of intelligence, and withal as unsophisticated as a child, I liked him from the beginning. Whatever he did he did with all his heart and soul. He purveyed and catered without regard to reason, expense, or the everlasting fitness of things. When the wagon was ready to receive its cargo, I found my friend Fanning up to his neck in business at one of the principal grocery stores. He was diving into pickles, wallowing in clams and sardines, luxuriating in jellies, reveling in spiced sauces, and rejoicing in various bottles, jugs, and demijohns of brandy and whisky of the most famous brands. When I surveyed his list of purchases I was glad my English friends, whose outfit in Iceland I had attempted to describe a few years ago, were not present. Here was a pretty catalogue of comforts and conveniences for a week's journey! Boxes of cigars, nipes, bags of tobacco, preserved meats, jellies desiccated vegetables, brandy, wine, vinegar, and crockery without limit. I was about to ask the Doctor how many years he expected me to be absent, and what he meant by this reflection on my powers of endurance in a rough country, when I perceived, from certain undulations in his motion and an extravagantly benevolent expression in his features, that it would be no use. The fact is, his arduous labors as caterer had proved a little too much for his equilibrium. He had tasted too many strong mixtures, and his mind was becoming a little bewildered by the multitude of his responsibilities. So that when the wagon was freighted to its utmost capacity, the driver on his seat cracking his whip, and the horses fast asleep, the Doctor had taken a new kink, and was off about town in search of an additional brick to put in his hat. "Never mind," quoth Timothy, the whipster, "he will overtake us on the road. He is only taking a parting smile at the snakes. Wake up, Abe! Git along, Ulyssus!" Up the hill of Aurora we toiled and tugged, till, by the united efforts of Timothy, myself, and the two horses, we reached the summit; from which we enjoyed a parting view of the town while we stopped to regain our breath. A little below to the right, in a pleasant green flat, stands the quartz-mill of the famous pioneer, speculator, miner, and prospector, once chief owner in the Comstock ledge, John D. Winters. The mill was busily at work crushing quartz, and presented a very lively and picturesque scene. A splendid turnpike has been made within the last two years from Aurora to the valley stretching along the base of the Sierras. Stunted pine grows on the sides of the mountains, which are otherwise exceedingly barren. A mile or two from the summit the road passes some curious About a mile beyond the end of the cañon we reached the Five-mile House, a pleasant rural station, conveniently situated as a wateringplace for man and beast. Here, in a desert flat, the effects of irrigation have been made apparent. It is difficult to conceive that a blade of grass could be made to grow in so barren a spot; yet, by the introduction of a small stream from the neighboring hills, the enterprising proprietor has succeeded in making quite a thrifty little farm. His vegetable garden is really a curiosity. Cabbages, beets, potatoes, and greens of various sorts flourish with a luxuriance that would do credit to California. I had seen before, in the neighborhood of Aurora, and mention it now as one of the anomalies of this strange country, some very remarkable examples of the natural fertility of this sage-desert soil. All it requires is irrigation to make it as productive as the best soil in any country. The climate seems highly favorable to vegetable products; and the time is approaching when Nevada will prove not only a rich mineral country, but be noted for its agricultural resources. At a point called the Elbow, four miles beyond this station, we reached another oasis in the desert, where we concluded to camp for the night. A good and substantial frame - house, with stables, corrals, and various out-buildings, has been erected here for the accommodation of travelers; and the scene, upon our arrival, was lively and characteristic. Freight trains were drawn up in front of the tavern, the teams tied to the wagon-poles, with piles of hay before them which they were devouring with great relish; groups of dust-covered teamsters sitting around the glowing camp-fires; an emigrant family a little to one side, weary and way-worn, but cheered by the prospect of soon reaching the end of their journey; a stage just arrived from Wellington's, with a noisy delegation of politicians from Carson; some half a dozen stray miners on broken-down horses, from unknown parts, and bound to unknown districts; while here and there dust-covered pedestrians, whose stock in trade consisted of a pick, shovel, pan, and blanket, were scattered about on the ground, taking their ease after their dreary walk across the deserts. While my trusty man Friday was engaged in unhitching the horses I selected a pleasant little grassy slope near some running water, fringed by willows, as a suitable place for our tent. The next thing was to gather up some dried willow-wood and make a big fire, which presently blazed and crackled with a cheerful glow, illuminating our camp in the most picturesque and satisfactory manner. At this altitude the evenings are always cool, notwithstanding the heat of the day; and a good fire after sunset is one of the chief comforts of life. We struck mind with vague notions of undiscovered treasure beneath the earth surface. Yet wild and rugged as it is, Nature seems to have formed this country with some regard for the convenience of man. In the midst of withering barrenness that sternly forbids his approach, natural roads open out through the mountains, in many places so well defined and so perfectly graded as to resemble the best turnpikes. our tent without delay, and then went to work try a strangely variegated aspect, and filled the and cooked such a supper of oysters, potatoes, coffee, and other luxuries as would have made old Nestor smile. I was sorry for the Doctor. At every pause in the feast we sighed for his genial presence. It was evident he had lost his way-or his equilibrium, which amounted to the same thing. He did not make his appearance during the night, nor had we the satisfaction of seeing his familiar countenance in the morning. What could have happened? Bright and early we struck our tent, hitched up our team, packed our wagon, and set forth on our journey across a broad desert valley stretching to the eastward. It was eight miles of a dreary drag through sand and gravel to the first pass in a range of mountains which separates this district from the Walker River Country. Our poor animals, jaded and starved, had a very hard time of it. I walked most of the way rather than impose my weight upon them. Timothy laughed at my scruples of conscience, and assured me the horses were not near dead yet; that they could travel across the plains on sage-bush. Going asleep and giving out was only a way they had. After a long and heavy pull we ascended the dividing range, and had a fine view of the surrounding country. To the right stands, in towering grandeur, a peak of the Sierras appropriately named Mount Grant, after our distinguished Lieutenant-General. Passing over the divide we entered a cañon through which the road winds for a distance of five miles. The sides are rocky, barren, and evidently of volcanic formation. Very little timber is to be seen, save here and there a gnarled and stunted pine. If ever there was a mineral country rendered attractive by a pervading spirit of desolation this was one. Every rock and tree, every ledge and fissure, looked the impersonation of strife between heaven and earth. The rich and varied colors of the mineral strata that cropped out in seams and ledges gave the whole coun Slowly descending the cañon-for our load was heavy and our wagon not the strongestwe entered upon the dried bed of a stream, which formed our road during the principal part of the way through. The towering walls of rock on each side converge till they form a winding pass, almost like an irregular street of some old city in the interior of Germany. There were breaks here and there, where we had to plunge over precipices that sorely tried the shattered frame-work of our wagon. At one place we had to take out the horses and lower our precious vehicle down a rocky pitch about ten feet deep by means of ropes. It broke away from us when half-way down, and never stopped running till it came in contact with a point of rocks about fifty feet below, where it wound up in a crash of matter that caused us the most profound concern for our absent friend, the Doctor. Demijohns were smashed; brandy, whisky, match-boxes, and powder poured together in fearful conglomerate; salt and sugar, paper and ink, boiled shirts and molasses, pickles and preserves-all mixed up in the general amalgamation. I had secured a sketch of Mount Grant under the cushion of the seat. Cushion, seat, and all were pitched overboard. When I dragged forth my sketch from the wreck I was struck with its changed appearance. A bottle of whisky, a can of oysters, some lucifer matches, and the contents of a loose powder-flask had been mixed over it. Timothy was knocked speechless at the immensity of the disaster. He had the most profound respect for my genius as an artist, and evidently regarded the whole expe- an encouraging smile; "you needn't be afraid dition as ruined. to come out!" "Never mind, Timothy, my boy," said I, assuming a cheerfulness which I did not feel "never mind. This accident is doubtless Providential. So far from ruining my sketch, I think it increases the spirit. Don't you see the indomitable Grant is now blazing away at Richmond? Look at the clouds of smoke! Here's Richmond-this crushed box of lucifers; and here's Jeff Davis-a smashed oyster!" I don't know whether he felt the force of the remark, but my trusty whipster brightened up after this, and went to work cheerily to get the horses hitched to the wagon. No material damage was done, after all—only a few small stores sacrificed to the great cause of human progress. By the same skillful system of navigation we at length reached the turning-off point, where we left the cañon, and ascended a hill to the right, from the summit of which we had a grand view of Walker's Valley and the Bullion Range of mountains to the south. "I know they don't care, Timothy; but what would Mrs. Grundy say? Deuce take it, why don't they go?" While Timothy was casting about him for a suitable answer to this question, it occurred to me that I heard strange voices in the distance. "What's that who's coming?" I asked, with some anxiety. Timothy looked up the road on the opposite side of the river. "Oh, that's only an emigrant family," said he, quietly, "two or three men and some women and children. Guess they're bound for California." It mattered very little to me where they were bound. They had to cross the river where I was blockaded; and a painful consciousness took possession of me that there could not be a more unbecoming spectacle for an emigrant family than that of a middle-aged gentleman, with a bald spot on his head, disporting himself in the water before a bevy of Pi-Ute squaws. "Timothy, my boy," said I, in extreme consternation, "can't you run up the road and éngage the enemy while I make an effort to get my clothes on or hide in the bushes?" "Oh, Sir," answered my trusty whipster, with a surprised look, as if he had not previously suspected me of any unusual depravity, “if you wish to be left alone here of course I'll go." Four miles below we reached the first crossing of Walker River. Contrasted with the barren slopes of the surrounding mountains the verdure of the bottom lands was peculiarly refreshing. Even at this dry season-the dryest known for many years-the river contained an abundance of water, pure, fresh, and sparkling, from the snowy heights of the Sierra Nevadas. It was a rare treat, in these hot and desert regions, to stand by the water's edge and see the gener- Before I could guess his meaning he had ous flood dash over the rocks and flow in eddy-driven the horses across the river, and the last ing currents over the clear gravelly bottom-so I saw of him, as he disappeared on the other rare to me, indeed, that I quickly divested my side, he was shaking his head in a sorrowful self of my dust-covered habiliments and took a manner-having evidently lost all confidence in plunge in the deepest pool I could find. Talk human virtue. To rush out, grasp up my scatof your Russian baths--your baths of Constanti- tered clothing, and retreat into a thicket of nople and Damascus ! What could equal the thorny bushes, was the frantic achievement of luxury of a plunge in this mountain stream after a moment. Of course the bevy of Pi-Utes a day's journey through scorching sands and laughed. It was natural enough they should crackling sage-brush and cañons that held the enjoy so novel a scene-a white man hopping, air like a bake-oven! This was luxury beyond in a nude state, over rocks and thorns, as if for description, bought by sweat and toil, such lux- his life, with a bundle of rags under his arm. I ury as the indolent lounger in the Orient never never knew a female in my life who didn't laugh dreamed of. And there were houris too; and at the discomfiture of man in this its most aggrathey came and sat upon the bank and enjoyed vated form. my sportive motions in the water; copper-colored, flat-nosed, thick-lipped houris, of the PiUte race, with red blankets over their bodies and fat babies in their arms. My man Timothy, without regard for the illusions of romance, or the tender influences of beauty, remarked that they were Pi-Ute squaws, on a "hogadie expedition"-"hogadie" signifying muck-a-muck, or food. There was but one way of making my escape from the water to that part of the bank upon which I had left my clothes. "Give them hogadie, Timothy, and tell them to leave." He gave them crackers and meat, and motioned to them to be off; but they only laughed and sat down on the bank again. It was sociable, to say the least. As soon as possible I emerged from the bushes, somewhat excoriated but not altogether disheartened, and proceeded on foot after my wagon and driver. I found Timothy engaged in a pleasant conversation with some ladies who had just crossed the plains. They were on their way to California. It was refreshing to meet with such enterprising females; and I was nothing loth to join in the conversation. The male members of the party occupied themselves in hunting up some of their laggard stock. It was getting late, however, and we were forced to push on in order to reach Lawson's ranch by night. A few farms had been started on the bottom lands, and we passed some very cozy little farmhouses and thrifty gardens. The river is fringed They don't care, Sir," said Timothy, with with willow, sycamore, and a species of cotton |