there are different influences. In all my travels through Siam, which were probably more extensive than almost any other foreign representative who has been there, I never experienced a single sign of hostility. On the other hand, I was treated with the greatest kindness and generosity, and never was I called upon to show my passport, everybody taking it for granted that it was all right that I should be travelling in the interior. I never had anything stolen, and I never yet slept in a house or private building with my room-door locked. Very frequently I had very considerable sums of money, but I never lost a penny.

Looking at the area of the country, Siam to-day is less in area than it was in 1893; but at the same time taking into consideration that portion of it which is of real value, it is considerably larger than England, Ireland and Scotland combined. It is made up of an area which, from its conformation, is greatly suited to agriculture and other manual industries. The conformation of the country in the south is quite different from that of the country in the north. The south possesses one of the most magnificent valleys that I ever saw, although it has been my privilege to travel through a great portion of China, the United States, and South America. When I passed from south to north and came into the Lâos States, I was impressed with the wonderful fertility of the soil, the vast extent of the area which could be cultivated and developed, and with the number of mountains and hills which were covered with magnificent forests. There are very few countries in Europe that possess more varied formation or more varied population than Siam.

At this stage of my observations I shall give a few extracts from a very recent report which I made to the American Government:

"I would note that as far as trade is concerned Bangkok is the only entrepôt of importance, but it is a far greater and more prosperous one than ninety-nine of every one hundred persons in Europe or America suppose. Bangkok is about 1,200 miles south-west from Hongkong, 850 miles north from Singapore, and on the Menam river approximately 30 miles from

where it debouches into the Gulf of Siam. A line of 13 steamers runs to Hongkong and another of 9 to Singapore, while numerous tramp vessels and many ships enter this port. If steamers go direct, they make the distance to Hongkong in 6 days and to Singapore in 3 days.

"Bangkok has a population of not less than 450,000 and is estimated by some authorities to have 600,000 to 800,000. Siam's total population is estimated to be anywhere from 7,000,000 to 10,000,000. The area is approximately 250,000 square miles or nearly the same as that of the state of Texas. It is larger than either Japan proper or Korea.

"In both political and commercial importance it is the third independent Kingdom of Asia, ranking after Japan and China, and before Korea and

Persia.

Although located to one side of the regular through trade routes of the world, Bangkok is one of the busiest cities in all Asia. Only Shanghai of Far Eastern ports presents an air of greater prosperity and activity. This does not mean beauty of streets and imposing business structures, for Bangkok has neither beauty nor solidity in these respects. The streets are dirty and most of the houses are of that light nature which characterizes the tropics, except that the residences of the leading foreigners, Princes of the Kingdom, and principal Chinese merchants, are usually serviceable, and sometimes handsome, buildings of brick and cement. These same dirty streets, however, are never deserted, and fewer loafers are seen than in American and European capitals. The river Menam that flows through the heart of the city and forms its great avenue of trade and travel, as well as deep, ample, and safe harbour, proves to the most sceptical Bangkok's wealth and importance as a business centre."

But at the same time while I am discussing the favourable advantages which exist there, it is only right for a proper apprehension of the country that I should state some of the unfortunate features, especially those which affect trade and commerce :

"An unfortunate feature of commerce at this port is the seeming lack of active interest manifested by the Siamese themselves. The conditions of trade might be easily improved if even a small part of the energy exerted and money spent in pageants, cremations, and temporary displays were devoted to the advancement of the port's welfare. The Siamese are not traders in the comprehensive sense, and confine themselves to small operations. It is remarkable but true that there is not one single large wholesale exporting or importing house managed by pure Siamese. Trade is largely in the hands of the Chinese, who form a considerable proportion of Bangkok's population, while next, in bulk and value handled, rank the European and Indian merchants. But what I say does not mean that the Siamese are inimical to commerce. Not at all-only strangely passive and even inconsistent. While an excellent postal system prevails, the telegraph lines are often in a neglected condition; while a skilfully managed little navy excites admira

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tion, the failure to promulgate and execute proper harbour regulations is disappointing; while money is lavished on a railway that runs 150 miles into the jungle, dredging the bar at the mouth of the Menam, which any one of a score of American dredging experiences, with far more difficult conditions, proves would be done with comparative ease and reasonable cost, is hardly considered. Believing, on the other hand, in being perfectly fair, I give the Siamese Government credit for imposing far less direct restrictions on trade than many other lands, and in, individually as a people, treating foreigners with kindness and respect whether their negotiations limit them to Bangkok or compel them to travel far into the interior. It is certainly to Siam's credit that an ordinary foreign traveller can go all over the Kingdom without a passport and be treated with consideration, although he is expected to have a passport, and is so advised by his Minister or Consul.

"Although Bangkok has long possessed strong branches of powerful European houses, and money-making schemes have been launched within the last few years that have done quite well, there is yet abundant opportunity for further effort. There must be hundreds of miles of railways built to open up the interior where waterways are insufficient, new canals dug and old ones dredged, more gold mines operated, coal deposits of better quality discovered and worked, agricultural conditions improved and acreage under cultivation doubled, extensive water-works provided for Bangkok, sanitary systems carried out, additional electric street-car lines constructed, operations in milling rice and preparing teak-wood for export --the two great products of Siam-further developed, electric-lighting and ice-making facilities increased, the river bar eventually dredged, and telegraph and telephone lines repaired and extended, if Siam would occupy the position in trade and commerce that Nature has done her part in enabling the country to take."

In this report I refer to the division of interests, and point out that at present fully 80% of the trade of Bangkok is in the hands of British houses, and fully 80 to 90% of the imports are brought there in ships bearing the British flag. As far as Bangkok is concerned I must say in all my experience of people throughout the Far East, from Singapore to Vladivostock, I was never in a city which was more interesting in all its phases and in one which would interest one more. Its location is one which offers many inducements to the traveller and the merchant. There we find a degree of progress which has not been equalled in some of the other capitals of the Far East. Long before many of the other capitals had electric light and electric tramways Bangkok was in possession of them, and to-day it is one of

the best-lighted cities in the world. There are much better facilities for getting about in Bangkok than there are in London. There is also a perfect telephone system. There are certain diseases incidental to Oriental towns, but the death-rate is not greater than in cities of the West.

The temples, the palaces, and the homes of the princes, as well as the homes of the principal people, are of great interest. As to the future of Bangkok, I believe that it will take its place along with the other great cities of the Far East as the leading entrepôt; and if the conditions are carried out which are now developing for the progress of the country, Bangkok will become almost as familiar as Calcutta, Bombay, Rangoon, and Colombo. The two principal The exports of

resources of Siam are rice and teak-wood. The rice amount to 20,000,000 of silver dollars, or £2,000,000. Next to that is the teak, which is used largely in the construction of the men-of-war, and the demand for it is much greater than the supply. At the same time, Siam has in her possession many of the most valuable tin mines of the Malay Peninsular. Gold is being found in measured quantities, but it gives promise of being found in greater quantities and rubies are found there also. As far as the imports are concerned, it is a country also with great prospects of development.

The business which is being done there at present by Great Britain may be doubled or quadrupled within the next twenty or twenty-five years. Its possibilities largely depend upon railways. There is one great railway running from Bangkok to Ayuthia, a distance of 50 miles, and will be eventually extended to Kurachee, a distance of 100 miles; but it looks at present as if it would be disconnected, because of the French possessions. The latest despatches indicate that the French are looking forward. to railway connections between Bangkok and Saigon, the great port of the French on the China Sea. Naturally, the conditions have not been very favourable to direct exportation; but as far as agriculture is concerned, especially in

rice, there is not a country in Asia which has greater facilities for development, there being large portions of land which are yet practically covered with primeval jungle grass. All portions of it are connected with a network of rivers and canals, so that the means of communication are such as to enable the people in the interior to bring their products to the market. The imports in 1897 amounted to about 25,000,000 of silver dollars, or about £2,500,000 sterling. The year before they amounted to nearly 21,000,000 of silver dollars, showing a very remarkable increase; but I am informed that the figures for 1898, which are not yet out, will be even greater. The exports for 1897 amount to the sum of 32,000,000 silver dollars, or £3,200,000 sterling, which shows an increase of 2,000,000 of silver dollars over the preceding year; and I am informed that a similar increase at least will apply to this year. This is an indication of great prosperity, because where the exports largely exceed the imports, it means that a large amount of money is coming into the country. Among all the independent countries in the East, Siam is probably in the best position. She has never had a Public Debt; she has none to-day, and there is no reason why she should have any. I understand that certain great financial agents have endeavoured to convince His Majesty that he should have a Public Debt, but he has not yet been quite convinced on this point.

In this con

This leads me to refer to the Government. nection the King himself. Although there was an opportunity of seeing him on his visit to England, and of reading and hearing much about him, I do not think anyone is able to understand his personality as well as those of us who were associated with him for five years. The King is, to my mind, the ablest statesman in all the Far East. I do not think there is any man in Japan or China who could outstrip him with equal conditions. I believe that if he were at the head of Japan he would be thoroughly in touch with all the great movements of progress. I believe that if he