his order, would have claimed the respect even of the most bigoted Protestant. His disinterested sincerity convinced me that a visit to the Convent at Staouëli would furnish the best explanation, in the present day, of that spirit which made men in the middle ages place implicit reliance on monkish traditions, causing them to relinquish rank, honours, fortune, dignities, and even royalty itself, in order to end their days within a convent wall. It was this spirit which incited the early Christians to undertake pilgrimages, in which nothing but danger and hardship were to be encountered, and whieh induced the followers of Godfrey de Bouillon to risk every think in those sanguinary Crusades, in order to free the land of the Sepulchre of our Saviour from the yoke of the infidel. These were wars which, however beneficial their results may have been to future generations, could bring but little advantage to either party actually engaged in the struggle, and which, when victory was achieved, were attended only with a vast expense of blood and treasure, both to victor and vanquished.

We took leave of the worthy friar, having been much interested with his long conversation, as well as with what he had shown us, and we fully concurred with him in the hope that we might meet again at some future period. He allowed us to cut several branches off a very beautiful palm tree, which has adorned the garden of the convent since its foundation, and pressed us to carry away certain Souveniers of our visit.

Saturday, May 3. Our morning was occupied in making purchases of bournouses and other articles for our friends in England, at the shop of Mustapha, in the Place Royal, a very respectable and honest Moor, with whom most foreigners transact business. From the experience which we have since had of the durability and excellence of his merchandize, we strongly recommend all Algerian travellers to visit his bazaar. I was much amused at his great family pride; as he informed me that his ancestors had been originally natives of Morocco, and had emigrated from that country three centuries ago, establishing themselves at Algiers. Hearing this, I asked him whether the emigration took place at the time when the celebrated Hassam ruled over Algiers. He seemed much astounded at my question, but answered, “I am a descendant of that famous chieftain."

The contents of Mustapha's shop may be taken as a fair sample of native Algerian manufacture. They consisted of specimens of terra cotta ornaments, painted in very bright colours; basket-work made from the leaves of the palm; pipes of all shapes and descriptions, from the hard and inlaid Berber bowl to the ordinary reddish clay of the desert; jewellery of native taste and pattern; stools and

tables, inlaid with mother-o'-pearl, and precious metals; bournouses, of camels' hair and silk fabric, together with embroidery in gold, silver, and leather.

In the afternoon, we paid another visit to the Cadi's Court, and heard our friend, the barrister, plead in a curious case of conjugal difference. The injured lady, who conducted her own cause with considerable violence of action and volubility of tongue, attempted by artifices and copious tears to sway the decision of the Court. She was muffled up in the usual Eastern costume-her eyes being the only visible parts of her face-and was protected from the supposed contamination of the male sex by a screen of open woodwork, behind which she raved and screamed at her offending husband. He, poor man, occupied a prominent position in the centre of the Court, and seemed quite crest-fallen under the flood of vituperation which was poured on him by his amiable wife. Now and then a smile passed across his sun-burnt and noble features, as his passionate spouse recounted, in the most glowing language, the story of her ill-requited love. The whole charge against this Moorish Lothario consisted in his frequent absence from home, and the attentions he was in the habit of bestowing on some of the dark-eyed neighbours-daughters of Israel. The reply of our friend completely won the favour of the Court; as he calmly described the want of feeling in the wife, the terrible vengeance of a jealous woman, and the unceasing persecution to which his client had been exposed. The Cadi at once pronounced for a divorce, without damages; and by a single dash of his pen separated the parties for ever.

The afternoon was idled away among the very shady and agreeable gardens of the Condamnes Militaires, or, as they have been more recently termed, Les Jardins Marengo. They are situated outside the Bab-el-oued gate, facing the Champ de Mars, and are terraced on the aclivity of the Casbah Hill. Here the children of the colonists are accustomed to assemble during the heat of the day, and to follow the example of their little compatriots of the Tuilleries, who usually, during the cool evenings of a Paris summer, turn out with their governants, to enjoy the sports and gambles of youth. The garden, as its name implies, is the work of those who have been condemned for their crimes to "traveaux forcés." The judicious ar rangement of European floriculture, with the palm, bannana, and varieties of cactus, the peculiar and indeginous products of the country, makes this a charming locality. The Doctor described most graphically the picturesque appearance of the surrounding objects, and gave me an excellent idea of the shape and size of the Marabout of Sid Labd-el-Rahman el Talebi, with its Moorish minaret, and domed roof, which occupies one angle of this garden. Whilst

my companions smoked their cigars and looked at the prospect, I derived much enjoyment in sipping iced sherbet, listening to the prattle of children, and breathing the fresh zephyr which was gently rising from the sea. It is amongst the beautiful retreats of the Algerian gardens that invalids derive so much pleasure, and pick up new health and strength. The climate is most temperate during the winter months; the thermometer scarcely ever falling lower than 65 to 70 of Farht. I was informed that during the past Christmas the thermometer had ranged as high as 80 for more than a week; that from the end of October to the beginning of May, the climate was superb; though, after that period, the excessive heats of summer commenced, when it was not unusual for the temperature to advance from 110 to 130 and 140 of Farht. During my stay in the town of Algiers, the range of the thermometer was never higher than 84, nor below 72-in fact, glorious summer weather, with a bright sky and a never-failing afternoon breeze.

May 4th. We again went for a drive amongst the cool uplands, around Boudjareah, and returned to Algiers by the Upper Road, which joins that from Bledah. This was the first Sunday of the Fast of the Rhamadan, the weakening effects of which have been so well described by Mr. Burton, in his amusing Tour to Medinah and Mecca. I have not lived sufficiently amongst the Mahomedans to discover what influence this fasting has upon their dispositions; but should think that it would be likely to produce the moroseness of temper which Burton so often speaks of. The Mahomedan at this period is silent and reserved, shows evident marks of fatigue and listlessness, becomes pale and feeble, and, in many instances, resembles a person but now recovered from an illness.

Mahomet instituted the Fast of Rhamadan at a period of the year when moderate weather was about to be replaced by the excessive heats of summer, and when caution in diet was most necessary to the preservation of health. Thus a simple measure of hygene became a religious observance, and his followers have ever since carried out the practice with the greatest rigour.

May 5th. Took an excursion to the Frais Vallons, or Fresh Valley, a spot much frequented by the Algerines. It is situated in the same direction as Boudjareah, though the road turns off to the left, and penetrates the verdant gorge of the Fresh Valley, where it is said that lions wander about in considerable numbers. We did not, however, believe this report, as the place was thickly covered with gardens and villas. The beauty of the scenery was greatly increased by the picturesque Moorish habitations, the numerous villas, and the variety of forest trees with which it was studded. We again took this opportunity of augmenting our

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already large bundle of walking sticks, by cutting down a few branches of the dwarf bamboo and jessamine.

Tuesday, May 6th. We made our preparations for a visit to Blidah, a very important and interesting town, only a few hours distant from Algiers, and which, owing to the obstinate resistance of the Arabs, remained unconquered until many years after the French occupation of Algiers.

The next day, having arranged the preliminaries of an excursion into the interior of the province, we set off to get a peep at The Atlas.

(To be continued.)

A PEEP AT THE RUSSIANS AFTER THE WAR.

I CAN imagine the disgust of the critical reader, as he inadvertently turns over the leaves of the "Medley," after a good dinner at his club, and fixes his eyes on the heading of this article. And indeed, one cannot blame him. Have not his thoughts, words, letters, and actions, aye, even his food, reminded him in some way or another, for the last two years, of the war in the Crimea; and is he never to have peace, or at least some respite from the everlasting flow of Crimean anecdote in every form and shape? Has not peace with the Russians been proclaimed by the Lord Mayor, rung for in every little country village, illuminated, fireworked, and bonfired, sufficiently to engrave it in perpetuo on the memory of every child of ten years of age? and why, forsooth, is he not to have peace also? Is his very fire-side to be invaded? No! he will write to the Times, and trust to the good sense of the public, to put this intolerable nuisance down! All easier said, gentle reader, than done as long as there are good-natured people who in their idle hours are yet to be imposed upon. To such, therefore, and I make no doubt that you are one of that class, I unblushingly address myself.

It was on a fine Crimean spring day, some three weeks after the proclamation of peace, that, stimulated with the desire of more closely viewing the manners and customs of an enemy of whom all the world had written, thought, and talked, for the last two years, my two companions and myself, having asked and obtained leave, set out on our travels. Our somewhat prolonged apprenticeship to campaigning

had not been without its fruits; for two mules, moderately laden with tents, mattresses, and cooking utensils, together with a couple of soldier servants mounted on their backs, were sufficient for our purpose. The weather was fine, our animals were fresh, and, after a steady canter of three-quarters of an hour over the evermemorable plain of Balaclava, we found that we had made good the five miles of journey to Traktir bridge, which will be known to future generations as the scene of the battle of Traktir. Here we found, that, in consequence of the visit of the Russian Commanderin-chief, General Lüders, to our lines, the bridge was strongly guarded by French soldiers; the production, however, of our permis to travel freely over the Crimea, signed by the Russian authorities, speedily obtained for us a free passage. Some other officers, however, who started about an hour after our party, were not so fortunate; as, having forgotten to provide themselves with a passport, they had the mortification of waiting three hours, till the Russian General and his staff had passed, to the manifest delight of the French guard. The valley of the Tchernaya would have been green and verdant enough in peace time; but, as we found it, the few particles of grass hardly afforded a scanty meal to the already half-starved Cossack ponies.

The scenery was most striking in its almost solitary grandeur, and, before the war, must have presented a magnificent appearance; even then, studded as it was with batteries and dirty Russian camps, the pass of Karalys, and the Mountain of Mangoup Kaleh, would have surprised any young ardent Scottish tourist, fresh from the beauties of Killecrankie. But to go on with our journey. After a somewhat difficult ascent of the Mackenzie heights, we found ourselves jogging along in the midst of a Russian camp. Whatever surprise we might have felt, we excited as much among our former enemies; for they came flocking around us, offering crosses and charms for sale. As we had no time to spare, the purchase of a few reliques contented us. The soldiers looked harassed and careworn, with thin lantern-jawed faces, wanting in the fleshy consistency of men who had fed on animal diet. They are, however, naturally stout, and, with the blind devotion which they are accustomed to give to their officers, have the necessary material within themselves for forming some of the best soldiers in the world. Their huts were of the rudest description, unsightly edifices composed of wattle and daub, with no attempt at regularity, neatness, or even cleanliness. The utter want of camp roads might be judged of from the abominable state of that which led to Bacheserai, and proved a mere Tatar track, thoroughly un