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NEW-YORK CITY, Feb. 9, 1866.


U.S. Revenue Commission, Philadelphia,


The undersigned, Members of the Executive Committee of the National Association of Wool Manufacturers, have the honor to submit to you, as the member of the Revenue Commission specially entrusted with the consideration of the. questions of revenue applicable to wool, woollens, and worsteds, the following "statement of facts relative to Canada wools and the manufactures of worsted," prepared by the Secretary of the Association above named, and to commend the facts and views therein presented to your special attention.

We have the honor to be, very respectfully, your obedient servants,








Executive Committee, &c.


OFFICE, 55, Summer Street,

BOSTON, MASS., Jan. 18, 1866.

To the Executive Committee of the National Association of Wool Manufacturers.

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GENTLEMEN, I have the honor to call your attention to a statement of facts in relation to the demand for consumption in American manufactures of the class of wools known as "combing-wools," as distinguished from card or cloth wools.

The former class are wools specially fitted for the process of combing by hand or machinery, which consists in drawing out the fibres, so that they may be straight and parallel; the shorter portions called "noils" being removed by this operation. The fibres having been rendered straight and parallel, are twisted, and the yarn is called worsted. The ends of the fibre being covered by the process of spinning, the yarns are smooth and lustrous.

Card or cloth wool is wool fitted for being carded. By this process the fibres are placed in every possible direction in relation to each other. adhering by the serratures of the fibre, which are more numerous in the wool fitted for carding. They are thus fitted for felting, and the ends of the fibre are free to be drawn

out into the nap. While card wools are required to be fine, short in staple, and full of spiral curls and serratures,- qualities possessed by wools of which the merino and Saxony wools are types, the combingwools, on the contrary, must be long in staple, from four to seven inches in length, comparatively coarse, having few spiral curls and serratures, and possessing a distinct lustre. These qualities are possessed in perfection by the English sheep of the Lincolnshire, Leicester, and Cotswold races; and, in a less degree, by the Cordova wools of the Argentine Republic, and the Donskoi wool of Russia. Comparatively long fine wools of the merino race, from two and a half to three inches in length, are combed for making delaines and similar fabrics; but they are not classed in the trade as combing or worsted wools.

An unprecedented demand for these wools has arisen in all manufacturing nations within the last ten years, and the prices have more than doubled in that period. This is due, first, to the vast improvements in combing by machinery made within the past fifteen years; secondly, to the late scarcity of cotton; and, thirdly, to the introduction of fabrics from alpaca wool; and the discovery that by the use of cotton warps, with a filling of combing-wool, an admirable substitute might be made for alpaca fabrics. There is an immense demand for these fabrics for female


The goods manufactured from combing-wools, or worsteds, are alpaca fabrics, poplins, grenadines, and an infinite variety of fabrics for female wear, the

consumption of which is constantly increasing; the contexture and patterns of the fabrics can be changed indefinitely to suit the caprices of fashion, and they constitute the great bulk of the class known as "novelties;" furniture goods, moreens, damasks, reps, mohairs, &c.; hosiery goods, such as zephyrs, nubas, &c.; braids, bindings, bunting, webbing for saddlery and suspenders. Carpets are made from coarse and cheap combing-wools; the white yarns being made from Canada wool. It is the opinion of manufacturers, that the finer classes of carpets could be made wholly of Canada wool with advantage.

The vast variety of fabrics, included in the worsted manufacture is illustrated by the following list of goods professed to be made by one firm in Bradford, the seat of the worsted manufacture in England:

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