each respectively. This segregation of trades, so remarkable in Chinese cities, is observable to a certain extent in Lisbon, and gave name originally to many of the streets, the Rua dos Sapateiros being chiefly peopled by shoemakers, the R. dos Douradores by gilders, and the R. dos Confeiteros by confectioners. Strangers may well regret that such a simplicity of arrangement has not characterized the naming of streets elsewhere. Some of the finest and longest thoroughfares are baptized anew every few blocks with names the most dissimilar and unmanageable. The Rua Direita do Sacramento becomes the Calçada da Pampulha, and two blocks farther on R. Direita de San Francisco de Paula, then R. Direita das Janellas Verdes, and assumes five other metamorphoses within a quarter of a mile, before its career is arrested.

vessas, praças, caminhos, calçadas, and estradas, which often bear the same designation. Saintly and holy names enter largely into every system of nomenclature, and sometimes blasphemously, as when such expressions as Coração de Jesus ("Heart of Jesus"), Madre de Dios ("Mother of God"), and Espirito Santo ("Holy Ghost"), are applied to places only remarkable for the misery and licentiousness of their inhabitants.

The unevenness of the land necessitates a great irregularity in the plan of the city. The older portions are made up of narrow lanes and long, lean houses characteristic of their century, but the site of the earthquake is laid out as rectangularly as Philadelphia and Buenos Ayres. Here the houses are lofty, the streets wide and level, and many of the stores, particularly those of the jewelers and silversmiths on Gold and Silver streets, very neat and pretty. Block after block of these little jewel-boxes, so like in arrangement, contents, and attendants that they are only distinguishable by the number of the building, tempt the passer with rings, chains, bracelets, brooches, and silver purses of the same patterns, which have been repeated by generations of workmen, but are valuable on account of the fineness of their material. The penalties inflicted for selling the precious

The length of a name is no indication of the extent of the street, for the Calçada nova do Convento do Coração de Jesus is only a few hundred feet long, and the Rua da Santa Anna da Boa Morte extends just two squares. Nor will it do to omit half this surplusage of name, since the Rua Direita de Buenos Ayres, if simply called R. Direita, a straight street, would be confounded with the R. Direita de Sao Francisco da Cidade, and the latter, unless the saint's attributes are fully expressed, with the R. Di-metals below the standard alloy are so severe reita de Sao Francisco de Sales, R. Dir. de Sao Francisco de Borja, and R. Dir. de S. Francisco de Paula. Even the word rua must be specified to distinguish from the becos, largos, tra

that the purchaser may buy without fear of being cheated, paying only a small percentage additional to the actual value of the metal contained.

Overlooking Dom Pedro Square, on the one hand, are the picturesque ruins of the Carmo, the convent of the Carmelite monks, which was erected in 1389, and on the other the Castello or Castle of St. George, whence the best coup d'ail of the city, harbor, and surrounding country may be obtained.

Two large open squares, separated from each square, upon the site of the old Inquisition other by a row of buildings, terminate these building. streets. That to the eastward is the Praça da Figueira, the pretty flower and fruit market, surrounded on its four sides by little stalls teeming with olives, oranges, tangerines, bananas, lemons, citrons, figs, almonds, and dates, the air fragrant with the perfume of an abundance of flowers, and noisy from the chattering of hundreds of bright-eyed, saucy country girls, who dispense gratuitous smiles and badinage upon the purchasers of their flowers, or, if these be wanting, amuse themselves by bantering each other. The other, approached from the Rua Amea or R. Augusta, is the Praça do Rocio, or the Square of Dom Pedro I., beautifully paved with waved lines of black and white stones, and a favorite evening promenade. The pedestal for a monument to this illustrious ex-king, ex-emperor, and ex-regent, who voluntarily abdicated three successive thrones, stands in the centre, but the monument is wanting, his spouse the dowager Empress of Brazil, surviving daughter of Eugène de Beauharnais, refusing to contribute toward it from her ample means unless her dead lord is mounted on horseback like his predecessor Dom José, who rides his black steed in the Praça do Commercio at the other end of the street, while the Cortes insist on representing him standing erect, as more becoming a monarch renowned rather as legislator than soldier. His daughter, the late Queen Dona Maria II. (da Gloria), is commemorated by a splendid heatre, erected at the northern end of the

Beyond the Rocio is the beautiful Passeio Publico, the public promenade, where, during the months that the Sao Carlos is not in operatic blast, the public are entertained by excellent music from three superior bands, which play alternately, while the crowd pass up and down the brilliantly-lighted central walk, which is more than a quarter of a mile long. A small charge at the gate excludes the rabble; and the beneficiaries of the Asylo da Mendicidade collect a considerable revenue for their institution by renting chairs for a few pence to the tired promenaders. Strangers will find the Passeio Publico always a delightful resort, and, in the heat of summer, will pass many a pleasant hour under the shaded trees beside its fountains. The people of Lisbon in general possess considerable taste for music. The audience of the Sao Carlos is one of the most critical in Europe. No performer is tolerated on its stage if found unworthy after a sufficient allowance has been made for diffidence and inexperience. Its five tiers are partitioned into little boxes, in the seclusion of which the devotee may, for a moderate charge, listen to the finest productions of the masters without the etiquette of

full dress. The wives and mistresses of the great nobles and their wealthy imitators, here as elsewhere, delight to display the treasures of their jewel-caskets and wardrobes-the wife and mistress of the same man often vis-a-vis and equally notorious-but the parquette and upper-circles are crowded with an intelligent auditory, intent upon the performance, whose countenances exhibit, by one general sympathetic expression of disapproval, every faulty departure from the score of the composer.

adjoining Praça dos Touros, there may be witnessed a Portuguese bull-fight-a much less brutal exhibition than the Spanish, since the bull's horns are sawn off and padded, to prevent the wounding of the men and horses. Sometimes a very savage and powerful animal succeeds in trampling to death an unlucky picador, whose iron-clad trowsers hinder him from escaping by flight should his horse fall.

The Botanical Gardens, near the suburbs of Belem, are laid out with much taste, and possess a very large collection ofʼindigenous and

of reputed Phoenician origin, dug up on the grounds more than a hundred years ago, are among the curiosities exhibited.

Lisbon is thickly studded with churches and conventual establishments. In 1830 there were one hundred and twenty-one religious edifices within the city limits. They crown all the hills, and constitute a prominent feature in the landscape seen from the anchorage. Few of them possess any architectural merit. The most beautiful is probably the church and con

Surveying the audience at the opera, or indeed at any other place of public entertain-exotic plants. Two grotesque military statues, ment, Americans will at once be struck with the not infrequent appearance, even among the first circles, of very dusky negroes from Brazil and the African settlements, generally accompanied by beautiful white wives, more fair by contrast with their swarthy lords. These are usually magnates of the slave-trade, which is indebted to Portuguese rather than to Spanish subjects for its vitality. They are received on a footing of perfect equality, and their children may be met in the streets every day, walking hand in hand with their white school-fel-vent of Sao Geronymo, at Belem, which was lows. Thick lips, flat noses, recedent foreheads, and tawny complexions attest the frequency of miscegenation, though perhaps not so common here as in Brazil. Time will determine whether the resulting mixture presents the hybrid characteristics of the people of Mexico and Peru, where races less dissimilar than the white and black have mingled their blood for centuries.

commenced by the great Manuel in 1499, at the site whence Vasco da Gama embarked for those discoveries in India which gave his royal master pretext for entitling himself "King of Portugal and of the Algarves, here and beyond the sea in Africa, Lord of Guinea, and of the conquest, navigation, and commerce of Ethiopia, Arabia, Persia, and India"-of which grandiloquence all that remains to his success

Besides the concerts at the Passeio, the gencral public is entertained with music by a mil-ors is "King of Portugal and of the Algarves," itary band, every Sunday afternoon, in the one of the latter being an insignificant settleEstrella Garden, a park of considerable extent, ment on the African coast, and the other only laid out with serpentine graveled walks, and the southern province of the kingdom of Poradorned with artificial hills, lakes, grottoes, tugal-both kingdoms together scarcely exswans, and deer. The services at the English ceeding the State of Kentucky in area. The chapel of St. George, erected on the grounds cloisters of this convent are among the most of the Protestant cemetery adjoining the gar-beautiful on the Continent, and the columns den, finish as the music begins outdoors; so which support the roof of the church are so that the stranger, if disposed to be a Roman in light, and apparently unable to sustain the Rome, may quit the sanctuary for a promenade superincumbent weight, that the scaffolding among the senhoras to the symphonies of the around them was removed by felons, who were opera. The cemetery is very neatly arranged, promised liberty as their reward for exposing and possesses a large grove of magnificent cy-themselves to so great a danger. The doorpresses, which are visible at a considerable dis- way of the church is a splendid Gothic arch, tance. The remains of Fielding and Dodworth with life-size statues of the Apostles, rising one are interred here. above the other to its apex.

The church of the Heart of Jesus (Coração de Jesus), on the summit of the Estrella Hill, and facing the Gardens, is built in imitation of St. Peter's, without the colonnade. Its fine dome is the only one of any pretension in the city.

There are several other interesting parks in Lisbon. The Praça de Sao Pedro d'Alcantara, a finely-shaded promenade, with a shell grotto and fountain, affords an excellent view of the better portion of the city and harbor. The Campo Grande, which is a mile long, with a carriage-road all around it, is pleasantly situ- The little church of Sao Roque, notwithated, a little distance out of town, for an after-standing its unostentatious exterior, attracts noon drive or ride on horseback. At the more visitors than any other by its wonderful Campo de Santa Anna there is held, once a chapel of St. John, built by Joao V., because week, the Feria da Ladra, or Rag Fair, at which his patron saint had no church nor chapel of all sorts of discarded garments and used-up his own in all the city, and enriched beyond the furniture, odd pieces of glass-ware and crock-value of many an entire church. The back and ery, bits of iron, cloth, and refuse of every kind, are offered for sale; and every Sunday, in the

sides of the chapel are formed principally by three large mosaics, copies of the actual size of

decorously witness the manner of heretic worship. The despoiled priests and their bigoted adherents attribute the decadence of their nation to the sacrilege committed in transferring the sacred candlesticks and chalices to the mint, and in occupying the vacant conventual establishments as schools, asylums, hospitals, barracks, libraries, and similar institutions. The great number of these found available for such purposes is the explanation of the absence of public buildings. Very few of the latter have been specially designed for their purpose. The Naval Arsenal, Exchange, Custom-house, and India House, and the recently-finished Polytechnic School, are splendid structures. The Mint, Bank of Portugal, and S. Carlos Opera House, which, receiving an annual subsidy of twenty thousand milreis from the Gov

Michael Angelo's Baptism of Christ, Guido's of curious natives unhesitatingly enter and Annunciation, and Raphael Urbino's Descent of the Holy Ghost; and so perfect, that it is necessary to ascend a ladder to be assured that they are not paintings. An elaborate mosaic constitutes the floor of the chapel, and beautifully-carved panels of Carrara marble the ceiling. Eight columns of lapis-lazuli surround the altar, which is composed of large masses of amethyst, Egyptian alabaster, granite, cornelian, verde-antique, Roman marble, porphyry, and jauf. The metal ornaments are heavily gilded; the hanging lamps and two monster candlesticks are of solid silver. The chapel was set up in Rome, and blessed by Pope Benedict XIV., who celebrated a mass within it before it was transferred to its present site, where its millions have ever since lain idle, which might far better have been devoted to the establishment of public schools and libra-ernment, should be regarded as a national ries, that would have banished so much poverty and vice from this land, and at the same time have been a nobler monument to the saint.

The church of Sao Domingo, near the Rocio, is the present see of the Cardinal Patriarch, who is the head of the Church in Portugal, and is of such great size that it invited desecration by the French Marshal Junot, who quartered and drilled a regiment upon its floor.

At Sao Vicente, which is the mortuary church of the House of Bragança, are collected all but two of the defunct members of the reigning royal family, piled away in gilt-trimmed trunklike boxes, on an elevated platform around the vault, the late king occupying a catafalque in the centre, until a successor crowds him into a less honored place. The church itself, like the memorable cape, derives its name from the martyr St. Vincent, whose body is interred at the Cathedral, where a pair of ravens are kept, in commemoration of the miraculous birds which guided the saint during his pilgrimage.

With profound reverence for the traditions of their religion, boasting of their city as the birth-place of five canonized saints-among them St. Anthony-and one Pope (John XXII.), observing scrupulously all the festivals of the church-every head uncovered, every knee bent to the ground as the host approaches; even the theatres stopping their performances when the bell is heard announcing the passing viaticum-the people of Lisbon are still very liberal in religious matters. Their educated classes exercise unrestrained license in criticising the ministers of their faith, who are too often amenable to charges of hypocrisy and licentiousness. They applauded their King for allying himself by marriage with the excommunicated Victor Emanuel, and joyfully acquiesced in the expulsion of the Jesuits and the suppression of the convents. Thousands of the best citizens are active and zealous members of the masonic fraternity, notwithstanding the papal interdiction. A Protestant chapel and burial-place cast their shadows over one of their most venerated temples, and crowds

rather than a private institution, are unattractive edifices. The Cortes still meet in the old convent of Sao Bento, where the fine library of the Torre do Tombo, with its treasures of rare editions and old manuscripts, will be found interesting even by those not learned in archæology. The hundred and fifty thousand volumes of the Public Library are huddled together in the cells and corridors of the old Franciscan convent, and as many more manuscripts are piled away in its loft. The collection of coins belonging to this library is very large and very valuable; and almost equally prized is a case believed to contain a copy of every edition in every language (though there is none with an American imprint), of the Lusiad of Camoes, who is especially revered in Lisbon as a native of the city. A statue is about being erected to him on the little praça, bearing his name at the beginning of the Rua do Chiado.

The Santa Cara da Misericordia, adjoining and connected with St. Roque's, is the home of two thousand foundlings, and one of the noblest charities of the city-an institution which Americans refuse to tolerate, though even their religious newspapers advertise the detestable nostrums and infamous callings which are its inevitable substitutes. Better far the little window, with expositos painted on its lintel, where the open mouth of a revolving cylinder is ever ready to receive the fatherless infant, who passes from the mother, who can not, dare not, or will not nurture it, to the tender care of those good sisters of the unfortunate, who, actuated by whatever amount of mistaken zeal, fill the measure of their lives with doing so much good that the church may well be proud of them, than the too well-known sign of the false physician which, in every one of our great cities, allures the poor sinner to death or deeper guilt. Better, too, the municipal supervision of the social evil and the biweekly sanitary inspections, required by the health officers of Lisbon, which have banished the black lion and her whelps from this part of Portugal, once their favorite