ical terms. The Quaker City becomes "Filadelfia" in Spanish; we make "Vienna" out of Wien; and many places altogether lose their identity in their passage into other tongues. "Lisboa," itself is asserted by Portuguese antiquarians to be a derivative from "Olisippo," a word of Phoenician origin, or of "Ulyssippo," The City of Ulysses, who, it is said, was carried into the Tagus in the course of a stormy and dangerous voyage. Without resorting to poetic fable, authentic history establishes its many centuries. Whether first Phoenician or Grecian, it was subsequently Carthagenian; then Roman, and called "Felicitas Julia" by the Emperors; then Gothic, and styled "Lispo;" for hundreds of years afterward the property alternately of Christian and Moorish sovereigns, the latter softening its name to "Lisbo," to which the ancestors of the present inheritors have added the final vowel.

The city proper stretches three and a half miles along the western bank of the Tagus, or Tajd-its sparsely-built suburbs as many more

Not many months ago, one of our vessels of war at Tangier, having been telegraphed that her presence was needed in the north of Europe, put into Cadiz to fill up with provisions from our own stores, and although a Spanish steamer, which had preceded her departure from Tangier and anticipated her arrival, was admitted to pratique, she was subjected to three days' quarantine for not having obtained the Spanish Vice Consul's vise to her bill of health, though Tangier was less than thirty miles distant, and notoriously healthy, while coasting steamers traded daily between the two ports. The city officials were informed that the interests of our Government might be seriously compromised by any delay, yet the ship was detained three days for the non-observance of a municipal regulation, which it is an outrage to apply to any vessel of a national character. On another occasion a ship of war arrived with a clean bill of health from a port where Spain was not represented by any consular authority, yet the absence of the visé induced the visiting health-officer to order the yellow flag at her fore until the Coun--and extends irregularly inland an average cil of Health could meet to determine whether it was proper to admit her. Were similar exactions made by other nations, a man-of-war would have to obtain the vises of all the consuls residing at every place from which she sailed, since she never clears for any port, but changes her destination as the interests of her flag require. Happily this requirement is peculiar to Spain. Every where else the certificate of the surgeon, that the vessel is free from contagious and infectious diseases, and that she has not communicated with any other vessel or port where epidemics were prevailing, is satisfactory to the health officials, and is a much more effectual guarantee of her sanitary condition than a bill of health, as it makes the surgeon directly responsible for the faithfulness of his report. The health-officers of Lisbon, who will be found courteous and obliging to the extent of making the visit at night to avoid causing unnecessary detention, refuse any other than such a statement by the senior medical officer.

Lisbon is less known to Americans than many cities of minor interest. Situated beyond the ordinary routes of tourists' travel, and possessing little American trade, it is seldom visited for business or pleasure by our countrymen, who therefore rarely see it, except when, as passengers aboard the steamers to Brazil, they are carried there for the few hours' detention required for coaling. While it possesses a large resident English population, only half a dozen Americans have made it their home. Perhaps, therefore, a few notes of what is to be seen of greatest interest within its limits will not be out of place in a Magazine which has devoted so many pages to the description of strange places in every quarter of the globe.

breadth of a mile and a quarter, covering its seven principal hills with lofty houses, and streets so steep that steps are constructed in many of them to make travel through them possible. The terrible earthquake of 1755 shook down seventeen thousand houses, and buried twenty-five thousand people; but their survivors and descendants have rebuilt the ruined quarter more substantially than ever, and so ably repaired the human void that the population of the city has increased to more than three hundred thousand.

The traveler, approaching Lisbon from seaward, begins his sight-seeing when Cape Roca (the Lisbon Rock of sailors) first looms up on the horizon. As the panorama, bounded at the southward and eastward by the lofty perpendicular face of Cape Espichel, is brought nearer and nearer to him, he will discover something novel and beautiful in every part of the landscape. The convent dome of Nossa Senhora da Penha glistens far up on the summit of the Hill of Cintra; the pretty villages of Guia and Cascars skirt the shore; vegetation of every hue, fantastic rocks, vine-clad hills, ancient castles, and elegant creations of modern art and wealth, meet the eye wherever it rests. The scenery from the mouth of the river to the city is surpassingly beautiful, and whoever is fortunate enough to enter the "golden Tagus" on one of these bright days or glorious moonlit nights, here so numerous, will enjoy one of the loveliest spectacles in nature. The appearance of the city from the anchorage is very imposing. The several convent and castle-crowned hills are the back-ground of a picture, studded every where with picturesque freaks of nature, the ruins of the past and the industry of the present.

Lisboa is the Portuguese designation of the city, and the name should be so written in En- All these visions of beauty used to be disglish, there being no reason why foreign na-pelled on landing, but the stories of municipal tions should vary the orthography of geograph- and social neglect and uncleanness are no longer

true.

CASTLE OF PENHA

It

The refuse of the kitchen, the stable, | barisms. The words Saboa, Rapé, Tabac (Soap, and the factory does not now obstruct the streets, Snuff, Tobacco), on the signs of old cigar stores which are carefully swept at night, but, being still indicate the places that used to be licensed macadamized, are dusty in summer and pasty by the Company to sell these articles. after rains. The cry of agoa va no longer af- The latitude of Lisbon is that of Washington, frights the belated pedestrian, who did not al- but the climates of the two places are unlike. ways escape the deluge of what was not alto- The average temperature of the year is about gether water, which preceded rather than fol- 60° Fahrenheit, a lower range of the thermomelowed the warning. Soap has ceased to be ter and greater prevalence of rains and easterly contraband, and splendid floating baths attract storms alone denoting the winter season. the thousands who can not afford to visit the never freezes, and few of the inhabitants have watering-places at the entrance of the river. ever seen snow fall upon it. Artificial heat is The revenues arising from soap and tobacco, so little needed that scarcely any of the houses until a few years past, were sold annually by are built with chimney flues except in the kitchthe Government to a company, which appointed ens, where a small fire ordinarily suffices for its own agents to collect the import duties. the Portuguese cuisine. A few foreigners and The domestic manufacture of soap was pro- natives, who are over-sensitive to the chilliness hibited under heavy penalties. Women were of a prolonged rainy season, warm their rooms subjected to the greatest indignities at the gates by having their persons rudely searched for concealed soap; and very recently several foreign naval officers were grievously insulted by tobacco agents thrusting their hands in their pockets to find a cigar that had not paid its tax. The great wealth of the Company long enabled them to control the Cortes, but an increasing desire to be clean at a cheap rate, and an unconquerable fondness for good cigars, finally triumphed; and the monopolies, which were as disgraceful to Portugal as the quarantine is to Spain, were added to the list of abandoned bar

by gas-burners, and others have introduced stoves and furnaces, requiring an enormous pipe along the front wall to the roof.

There is little architectural display, and no exclusively aristocratic quarter. Palaces, churches, and brothels stand side by side. Houses are generally five or six stories in height, roofed with tiles, and have plain stone or stucco fronts, with iron balconies and overhanging shades at each window, where the dark-eyed alfazinhas ("salad-eaters"-the fair Lisbonenses being inordinately fond of salad) collect to watch the passers-by.

pleading for abatement of charge, the repeated assurances of rare quality and economic price, which create a ceaseless din in one of our large stores, are not heard at a Lisbon counter.

Lack of energy characterizes this race. A people of frugal habits, and accustomed to sacrifice fully a third of the year in the observance of religious feasts and royal anniversaries, can not be expected to exhibit the activity and vigor of the hardier Saxon and Celt, whose more unfruitful lands compel them to labor or starve. Amanha ("To-morrow") and Tenha paciencia ("Have patience") are the only replies your tailor, your bootmaker, or your laundress will make for keeping you waiting week after week for articles they will finish in a day when they make the effort to begin, and the stranger will cheerfully resign himself to his washer-woman's dilatoriness if he can be satisfied that her son has not enjoyed a week's wear of his linen in the interim.

There are no elegant stores in Lisbon. The Rua do Chiado-a short, broad street leading from the Praça do Camoes-and one or two still shorter thoroughfares connected with it, comprise all the fashionable establishments for the sale of ladies' apparel; but the display in the finest is not comparable to that of a third-rate store in New York. Save the red hand of the glover, the mammoth gilt tooth of the charlatan dentist, and a few similar barbaric devices, little attempt is made at sign-representation. A simple announcement of the name and trade of the proprietor is usually thought sufficient, unless he is privileged to exhibit the royal escutcheon, denoting that the inmates of the Palace have patronized him. In some instances not even the trade is expressed: a white cross on each door-post indicating the residence of the midwife, who here replaces the accoucheur, as a fluttering green cloth used to point out the barber-shop, and pieces of plain white paper on the window-panes still The habits of life of the Portuguese depart announce that the owner of the building has a altogether from an American standard. They room to let. Salesmen take as little trouble neither live, eat, dress, nor are buried as we within to encourage purchases as the proprie- are. Every American, however humble his tor does by exterior allurements. The advent lot, aspires to occupy his own castle, and sons of a customer seldom calls the attendant from and daughters quit the paternal roof with unthe farther end of the room, and when sought seemly and regretted haste to begin their own he waits leisurely for Madame to announce the establishments. In Lisbon only the wealthier article she seeks, which, being produced, she is nobles and a few very rich merchants occupy expected to buy without cavil and carry away. an entire house, which is then styled a "palThe skillful sparring of smiling counter-jump-ace. Few houses are less than five stories in ers and hypercritical customers who make shop- height. The ground-floor is almost always apping a profession is unknown here. The po-propriated to stores, and each story, or andar, lite demands and indignant remonstrances, the above is subdivided into suits of rooms, occu

pied by different families, whence it happens der heart. Pity soon becomes banished from that communities of very dissimilar character the breast in Lisbon. Woeful lamentations, for dwell under the same roof, while the general which the nasals of the Portuguese language stairway, being the subject of no one person's so well adapt it, are whined forth in tones to care, is always dirty and unlighted. There is melt the heart of even one who does not unno porter's lodge, as in France, the common derstand the meaning of the words; but menentrance from the street being opened at night, dicancy is a profession, and these are its maswhen only it is closed, by a sesame of loud raps ters, who have studied to give expression to corresponding in number to the floor on which misery as closely as has the tragedian to porlives the person sought, whose servant is spared tray the passions of men. The wailings of the trouble of descent from these supernal re- pretty little children about the places of amusegions by a series of cords leading from each ment at midnight appeal to those who are insuit of apartments to the latch. It is an in- sensible to the demands of older artists; yet genious means of saving labor; but it produces nine times in ten the cinco reisinhas ("little an alarming effect on the timid stranger, who half-cent") solicited goes to swell the horde of is conducted for the first time up a dimly- the miserly crone who has hired the little actlighted street to a huge iron-bound door, hears ress for a pittance. The veiled beggars, who four or five mysterious raps, followed by the come quietly upon you from the shadow of opening of the door by unseen hands, and is some dark doorway late at night, profess to be made to follow his conductor up a dark stair- women of respectable birth and station, driven case till he sees a light flickering through a by want to solicit charity, and yet too modest little square grating, and listens to the sharp or too proud to expose their features. Povchallenge, Quem e? ("Who is it?") and Queerty and ignorance drive the lowest grades of quer? ("What do you want?") The reply satisfactory, huge bolts slide back, the massive door swings open, a second is unfolded, and the visitor introduced into gayly-furnished, brilliantly-lighted parlors, where the politest peo-pated scions of aristocratic families. Among ple in Europe are waiting to give him a kind, hospitable welcome. The police are efficient, and the garrote not an institution, else it would be a risksome venture to mount these silent, dark stairways, with no other guide than the balusters and the recollection of the landing stages passed.

Assassinations were once rife in the streets, but at present there is no more orderly city in the world. There are no great drinking saloons to send forth gangs of brawlers. The Lisbon gentleman, after dinner, frequents his favorite café, drinks his harmless cup of coffee or thimbleful of cognac, smokes a cigarette, and wastes an hour or two at dominoes or billiards. Only when a British man-of-war gives general liberty to her crew is the pedestrian apt to be jostled from the pavement by reeling drunkards, and they, fortunately, seldom stray far from the English chop house by the riverside, where the vile stuff is sold which steals away their brains.

The people of Lisbon are perhaps better dressed than any where else in Europe, though the smallness of their incomes compels them to maintain their fine exterior by the sacrifice of many items of domestic comfort. Neatness of attire characterizes all classes but the beggars, who affect rags and filth. These and a brass badge stamped with the letter M (Mendigo), and a number indicating their license to importune you at every corner for "a little something for the love of God," are regarded by the experienced as signs of danger, to be avoided by an abrupt change of direction. The unlucky stranger who stops to bestow alms on the pobre miserable is dogged by a score of others who have witnessed this evidence of a ten

society in every country to acts of self-degradation; but humanity is nowhere more outraged than here, where inhuman mothers raffle their innocent daughters among the dissi

the fairest beauties who sit in the primero ordem at the opera may be seen one more fortunate than her sister victims in this infamous lottery, who, having gained the affection of the youth who won her, was educated by him and finally made his wife.

The Portuguese are even more circumspectly polite than the French. Strangers will not fail to remark how generally characteristic this is of all classes of this community. Gentlemen invariably salute when they enter a room, wheresoever it may be, and whether or not they recognize acquaintances. A bow and "May God be with you!" or "Have patience, friend!" are the only rebuffs addressed to the most importunate beggar, who receives it with a sigh and upturned eyes, when the ruder Englishman's angry curse has elicited a torrent of abuse that is taken up from corner to corner by the incensed fraternity. Certainly it is pleasant to see so much attention paid to the little courtesies of life, though, carried to the extent of formal ceremonial, it is apt to suggest a doubt of its sincerity.

It is a fearful undertaking for an American to enter a parlor, approach the sofa flanked by chairs, forming three sides of a parallelogram, where the ladies are seated together, and execute the proper number of bows and utter the proper number of felicitations, with due regard to the rank and precedence of the fair; and the performance is none the easier when the room is darkened for the eight days assigned by Portuguese etiquette to the reception of visits of condolence after a death in the family. Every woman, except a menial, is an Excellenza, respectability having nothing to do with her right to the title. Madame's letters

must be addressed to the Illustrissima e Excel- | I., whose reign, about the time of our Revolulentissima Senhora ("Most Illustrious and Most Excellent Lady"). No more serious affront can be given than to employ a form of address applicable to a lower grade of society; and, therefore, to be considered well-bred, foreigners must learn when to say, "Your Excellency," "Your Lordship,' 99.66 'Sir," or "Your Worship :" to which last even a servant is entitled, unless admitted to the more familiar household tu ("thou"). Among men only the higher ranks of nobles are Excellenzas, and only very intimate male friends hug and kiss each other on meeting.