A mode of espalier-training is very perspicuously described in the English Gardener; a drawing is annexed, and from it I have taken the figure that is intended to illustrate the following description.

759. Erection of an Espalier-rail.-The situation and aspect of the trellis have been detailed in the paragraph No. 542; the materials should be some imperishable wood; and the preference ought to be given to that of the Acacia, Elder, or Laburnum. Young trees, with clear erect stems, six or seven feet long, and from an inch and a-half to two inches in diameter, would furnish the most durable upright stakes for the rail.

The bark being removed, the lower ends are to be painted to the extent of fifteen or eighteen inches, with coal-tar; and when this has become dry, the stakes are to be driven into the ground so deep as to leave one inch of the coating of tar visible above the surface. In order to regulate the direction, a line must be strained very tight, and with the utmost precision along the site of the intended rail; the distances between the uprights are next to be measured, and marked with small sticks. The line being removed, each hole is to be made with a crow-bar; the upright is next to be placed in the hole, and driven in to the required depth, and then, the stakes are to be joined, and kept in a line at the top by a rail of spine-oak, or an iron hoop, through which a nail is to be driven into the heart of each.

I think that a double coating of white paint would improve the rail in appearance, and tend to prevent the growth of those mosses and lichens which usually infest old espalier rails.

For apple and pear-trees the uprights should stand about nine inches asunder; for vines double that distance might be allowed, provided that small rods or wire were affixed horizontally along the trellis, in order to guide and support the advancing shoots; the top rail ought in every case to stand four and a-half, or five feet above the level of the ground.

760. Planting and training the Vines.-The trees may be raised from cuttings or buds, planted at once in the places where they are to remain; or, each vine having been previously rooted in a pot, will be planted and treated as directed by Harrison (see No. 719). The distance between vine and vine must be sixteen, or rather eighteen feet. When the vine is planted, treat it according to the instructions already given, but, subsequently, instead of leading off two horizontal branches, suffer only one single leader to attain its utmost perpendicular growth, securing it to the espalier-rail as it advances, by tyers of soft bass or twine.

761. First Year,-Winter Pruning.-In November, when the young vine has shed its leaves, cut it off at an inch above a bud that

is nearly even with, or rather below, the top rail of the trellis. In the spring following, lead off four shoots at regular distances on each side of the central stem, and rub away every other bud or shoot. Train the eight shoots horizontally along the trellis, and if in the course of the summer they extend a foot or more beyond their prescribed limits, suppose to ten feet, cut them back to about eight feet six inches; and when they sprout again, let them be again stopped. Remove every lateral side shoot, so that nothing but the clear branches and their leaves remain.

762. Second year,- Winter pruning.-In November, cut off the ends of the branches, leaving each eight or nine feet long; and the vine will now appear as represented in figure 46.

In order to prevent crowding, it will be needful to prune off every alternate shoot b, b, b, b, at the lowest bud next to the central stem; and in the spring, the four remaining shoots will send out a young bearing shoot from each of their buds, which will produce one or two bunches of grapes. The shoots are to be cautiously secured to laths, placed from upright to upright, at convenient distances, and when the grapes become as big as peas, the shoots are to be pinched off at one bud above the uppermost bunch; at the same time, the clusters ought to be thinned out with a fine pointed scissars, to the extent of at about one-fourth of their berries. This remark on thinning the fruit applies, however, solely to the finer sorts of grapes for the table, and on such, the operation ought, I think, to be performed twice; the first time, as above described; the second, about a month after the first; when the swelling of the fruit shall determine the proportion of berries to be removed. For immature, or inferior winegrapes, thinnings out would not be required.

Four other shoots will now be advancing, two on each side of these, two are exhibited at s s, fig. 47. In the drawing, the tree is represented at two distinct periods after the second winter's pruning. This is done in order to avoid needless figures, and also to enable the reader to observe the result of the operation then

performed. A, A, represent two of the four branches corresponding with a, a, a, a, of fig. 46; of which, two others, on the right hand

of the central stem, are seen bearing fruit. B, B, are two of the four branches b, b, b, b, of that figure, that were pruned down to one bud. s, s, are two branches advancing from such buds, to supply the bearing wood of the next year; they are to be trained horizontally as the present bearers were during their growth, and like them, are to be kept clear from laterals or claspers; r, r, r, &c. indicate the rods or laths to which the advancing shoots may be secured.

763. Third and subsequent winter prunings.-Cut down all the four branches, a, a, a, a, fig. 46, which bore the fruit of the preceding summer, to the lowest bud upon the young shoot on, and nearest to, the origin of the branch. This will be to lengthen the spur and its butt by one bud; but, as in the case of long pruning, other shoots will in the course of time be protruded either from the base of the branch, or from the main stem, and when one of these shall be found well situated, and strong, the old branch may be entirely removed. The main points to be attended to in pruning are-never to leave more than two bearing branches at full length, on each side of the main stem; to cut down the two alternate branches to one bud, or to the lowest bud that will produce a strong new bearer; and to remove all weak or ill-placed shoots. The figures 46 and 47 are to be taken as the future guide, with the consideration that the bearers of each succeeding year are to be produced in alternate order, and that, too, on both sides of the main stem.

The system corresponds with that of Mr. Hoare, in cutting out alternate shoots; but if the vine do not stand very near a south wall, it is not adapted to our chilly summers, unless, indeed, it be applied chiefly to the production of unripe grapes for wine making.

PART II.

OPERATIONS IN THE FRUIT DEPARTMENT.

764. Plant fruit-trees, if it be needful, but planting ought to be avoided, if possible, at this unpropitious season.

Pruning in very open weather may be attended to, if time press. Fruits should be protected from frosts. Lay long litter, or straw, as mulch, between the rows of strawberry plants. Cover the roots of vines, peaches, nectarines, &c., with littery manure, or spent tanner's bark.

MISCELLANEOUS.

765. Prune deciduous shrubs, cutting out entirely all superfluous shoots; then fork the ground.

Protect by littery manure the roots of tender shrubs. Clean grass-lawns, and gravel-walks, and remove litter of every kind.

"Collect leaves of trees of all sorts, and lay them in large heaps to rot for vegetable mould. If you intend to make hot-beds of them, they should be raked together when they are not wet; but if you intend them for rotting only, they must be brought together as wet as possible."-(M'PHAEL.) Collect also fresh meadow-soil with turf and weeds, intended to form compost for fruit-borders. Mix these with cow-manure, and a moderate sprinkling of salt (457).

THE NATURALISTS' CALENDAR.

DECEMBER.

AVERAGE height of the barometer, about 294 inches.

Ditto

thermometer, 40 or 41 degrees.

In the second and third week, early young lambs are dropped; moles (Talpa Europea) throw up hillocks.

Fourth week, blackbird (turdus merula) is sometimes heard to sing in very mild seasons. Red-breast (motacilla rubicola) sings.