rode mules. And now we have arrived at the Col de Balme, where, as far as my knowledge extends, one of the finest scenes in the world burst upon our view. It is, however, too magnificent to be described. Suffice it, then, to say, that "Mont Blanc from his summit to his base in the vale of Chamouni, lies like a model before us, surrounded by the Aiguilles of La Tour, Midi, &c., &c.; and each divided from its neighbour by enormous glaciers which stream into the valley." [Murray.]

When we left the house of refuge or Inn on the Col de Balme, the master of which was not very courteous, the wind from the valley into which we were going to descend was so high, that Mrs. H. was obliged to leave her chaise à porteur for some time, and to take my arm.

Long before we reached Chamouni, night with her sable mantle had hidden all things from our view; and we pursued

our course along the valley, which is by no means beautiful, with nothing to excite our attention save the occasional sound of "the avalanche, the thunderbolt of snow," and a fearful sound which proceeded from a torrent, and which, ever and anon, conveyed the impression to the mind that it was approaching to us with awful velocity, and that we should soon be overwhelmed with its dark waters. However, about halfpast 9 o'clock, having been some ten hours in our saddles, we entered Chamouni. We took up our abode at one of the enormous hotels (Royal de l'Union), and were obliged for the first night to sleep in the upper part of the house. The doctor slept in the chapel in which Divine Service is performed on alternate Sundays after the forms of the English church. The natives are Catholics, and a Benedictine convent was established in the village about the

end of the 11th. century. This part of the Alps, you are aware, is in Savoy.

We remained at Chamouni, or, more correctly, Chamonix, three days, namely, Friday, Saturday, and Sunday, during which, the Sabbath excepted, we made excursions to the Mer de Glace and the Flegère. I was wonderfully struck with the former; and quite agree with Murray who says, that "its great extent, from the vast size of every object about it, is not appreciated at first." It may be seen to an extent of two leagues up the valley. This and the glacier, which is only a continuation of the sea of ice on an inclined plane, were the only objects in Switzerland of which I had failed to form a tolerably correct idea before entering that land of wonders in which the works of the Almighty are so richly and marvellously displayed. We contented ourselves by

F

walking upon it, but the doctor crossed it.

The valley is 3370 feet above the level of the sea, according to Murray, although some make it 55 feet higher, and the inhabitants of the higher part hasten the melting of the snow by scattering black earth on the top of it. This contrivance, which is both simple and philosophical, advances the labours of agriculture about three weeks. "The altitude of Mont Blanc above the level of the valley is 12386 feet, -an elevation greater than that of Chimborazo above the table-land on which it rises. It is snow-clad also for 7000 feet." "It is the quantity of snow," says Simond, "falling upon the top of Mont Blanc,that is upon the upper third of its height, -where it never melts, and not the intenseness of the cold, which determines the progressive encroachments at the lower end of the glaciers, over the green fields of the valleys." [Gazetteer of the World.]

But great as is the elevation and magnitude of Mont Blanc, if any Titan would remove a portion of the vast buttresses which it throws out towards the valley, its height would be more striking to the eye of the beholder.

"Mont Blanc is the monarch of mountains;

They crown'd him long ago,

On a throne of rocks, in a robe of clouds,
With a diadem of snow."

While at the Flegère we saw through a glass two adventurous American travellers ascending Mont Blanc. The prints of their feet in the snow could be distinctly seen. They did not, I was informed, gain the summit. It was first ascended in 1786, and up to the present time, I am led to suppose, some one hundred persons, exclusive of guides, have ascended. Those of them who were of unsound mind came down as they went up. In 1820 three guides were swept off by an avalanche and lost. Several females have reached the