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into Spain.

The patrol continues his watching. Should the two be unable to come to an agreement, the Andorran takes to his heels while the patrol shoots.

Contraband or smuggled tobacco is sold all over Spain. The Spanish government knows that there is continual smuggling from Andorra, and every little while inspectors arrive on the scene. The Spanish patrols now begin to hustle, and woe betide any Andorran they are able to run down in the mountains.

This story of the Andorran smugglers I got from the Englishman with the hunt

ing proclivities, whom I met at the inn in THE REAR END OF A LOAD OF HAY the valley of the Segre. As he told it to Wagons are unknown in Andorra

me over a cup of coffee, he rolled a

cigarette, remarking: “This is Andorran now holds up perhaps two or three tobacco and was smuggled down here over pesetas-a peseta is about eighteen cents. those high mountains you see out of the The patrol shakes his head, no. The An- window. I got it through the mayor of dorran raises the bid, one peseta at a time this village. His house is the place of to six, seven, eight, nine or ten pesetas. deposit where the Andorran smugglers, As soon as the patrol is satisfied with the coming into this part of Spain, unload.” amount, the Andorran places it in a pile Andorra is a republic under the joint on the ground and goes on his way down suzerainty of France and Spain. The

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THE CAPITOL OF ANDORRA
It is of solid granite and was built in 1580. It contains the national prison, the village school, a
chapel, sleeping, cooking and eating quarters for the patriarchal lawmakers, with a stable for their
" steeds." The national archives are here stored in a cupboard, to open which the keys of the six
communes of the republic are all required. This capitol building is called "The House of the Valley"

patriarchs or heads of the families elect old cupboard in this room are the library representatives who go down to the capi- and archives of the nation. Near the pretol building in the village of Andorra and siding officer's desk is a small stove. On make the laws. This capitol building, the wall back of the stove is a good map dating from 1580 and of solid granite, of Andorra, while back of the desk a row embodies something of the idea of our of hooks hold the official capes and three

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THE LAWMAKERS OF THE REPUBLIC In their official capacity, wearing their official three-cornered hats. The man in the center, with the two-cornered bat,

is the Syndic, or President. At his left is the Vice-Syndic

use

department stores in the United States. cornered hats of the lawmakers. One hat It is several different things all in one. has only two corners and is adorned with The basement contains the prison, the gilt braid. This is worn by the Syndic or only one in the country, and when I was President whenever he leaves his home there it showed no signs of having been and work and goes down to the capitol to inhabited for a long time. The basement attend to the business of his country. The also contains stabling room for the steeds room contains no other furniture except of the lawmakers. I the term the hard-bottom, well-worn chairs of the “steeds” because I do not know whether council. The plainness of this council they ride in on horses, mules or donkeys. chamber is relieved by one thing. Coming I should not be surprised if often all three in at the window is a picture beautiful classes of animals were represented. and inspiring beyond description. It is a

The second floor contains the village view of a lovely valley with a pretty vilschool, a small chapel, and the council lage, Escaldas, one mile away, nestled at chamber, which is the headquarters of all the foot of a magnificent mountain. branches of the government, legislative, There is another room on this floor quite executive and judicial. Locked up in an as interesting as the council chamber. This is the kitchen. When the lawmakers They are celebrated in a Spanish proverb come to town, they sleep and eat in the for their silence and their prudence. The capitol. The kitchen contains eight to ten only indication of the latter that I saw small fireboxes built stove-high in ma- was in their manner of locking up their sonry, which are used, I suppose, for government building and the old cupcooking various smaller side dishes. The. board in which are kept the national real fireplace is in the center of the room. archives. The only door entering the govThe chimney comes down, flares out like ernment building is secured by an im

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HALF WAY BETWEEN THE VILLAGES OF ANDORRA AND SAN JULIAN

A natural composition that rivals the old masters

an umbrella and fills up half the ceil- mense lock, to turn which they use a key ing, while from somewhere up within its at least a foot in length. The archive mysterious interior it sends down heavy cupboard is secured by six locks. chains with enormous hooks capable of dorra is subdivided into six communes or holding up a whole ox while it is being parishes, and each commune has a lock roasted by the fire built beneath. On two and key of its own on the national sides of this fireplace stand heavy oak archives. There is thus no chance of getbenches with seating capacity for a dozen ting at the archives until all six sections or more. I asked who used these two of the country are represented in the benches, and was told the cooks, but I council chamber. The Andorrans are have a suspicion that more often than not proud of the contents of this cupboard some of the space on them is occupied by and well they may be. Among other worthy old patriarchs who have slipped treasures, it contains their first charter of out from the lawmaking chamber to at independence granted their forefathers tend to the more important duty of seeing over twelve hundred years ago by that to it that the ox browns up nicely all over renowned emperor and general, Charleand gets tender all the way through. magne.

The Andorrans I found industrious and Now for the first railway station in honest, modest, cordial and hospitable. Spain ! Getting aboard my bicycle again

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THE HEADQUARTERS FOR SMUGGLERS In this village of San Julian de Loria smuggling is regarded as an honorable, praiseworthy profession, for the smuggler

is the one who does and sees things

at Seo de Urgel, I started on a memorable had been under way three hours, I had eighty-mile wheel down the valley of the caused three runaways. Segre to Lerida. A new road covered this The first was a peaceful-looking donkey eighty miles, I had been told, and was with a hayrack on his back and his lord the finest in Spain. It may be both, but and master on top of that. The donkey it is without doubt the worst road I have was walking along and apparently sleepever become intimately acquainted with ing at the same time. As I came up back in Europe or America. Bicycles, I judged, of him, I jingled my bicycle bell and were unknown in that section. Before I thereby, I concluded afterward, wakened

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him out of his sound nap. He turned his haste, I mounted my bicycle and lost no head around and looked at my bicycle with time in putting a couple of miles more blinking eyes and a most surprised ex

behind me. pression on his donkey face. His long and After having incited a mule with a half eloquent ears pointed straight at me. He load of hay on his back to race me, and doubtless thought I was "It," but he did

after having put into the mind of a second not run. Perhaps, being a lazy donkey, donkey thoughts of suicide, that is, of he was afraid he would have to walk back.

jumping over the edge of a high bridge, I What he did do, however, he did quickly. gave up all idea of hurry, and as often as Bunching his feet, he commenced to go I met anything with four legs, I got off round and round in a small circle some and hid my bicycle until it had passed. thing like a dog does when he goes after Eleven miles from Lerida the rough his tail. The poor man, who was rather road had succeeded in finishing up one of slow in comprehending the situation, the tires of my bicycle, and the rest of the promptly fell off, all except one foot which distance I covered in a two-wheeled stage caught in the hayrack. But the donkey

But the donkey coach with my bicycle suspended beneath. did not mind that and kept on going, Thus ended my trip into and out of Anwhile his master, making strange gestures dorra, the land of patriarchs and the land with his two hands, his head and his free of the simple life. foot, followed the donkey something like The probabilities are that in the course the tail follows the kite. It looked to me of another quarter of a century a good, as if the donkey was trying to have a lit broad, modern macadam highway will tle game of “Crack the Whip,” with his bisect the nation. France and Spain have master as the cracker.

agreed to construct roads reaching to the I dismounted as soon as I could to see Andorran frontier, while Andorra is going what I could do, for I was considerably to connect the French and Spanish roads

by a road through her principal valley. Spain is short of funds, but during the past couple of years has broken ground for something over a mile of her part of this new road. France is really building her road, while Andorra has constructed bridges and laid the foundation of about four miles of magnificent road. This now stands ready for the steam roller and the top dressing, but can not be finished for the Andorrans have no steam roller and have no means of getting one until France finishes her road and opens the way to the frontier. At present this new road in Andorra is a river of small, sharp, broken stone.

But of all startling twentieth-century innovations in this land of patriarchs, the

most astonishing is the fact that the inn at Also a flock of goats starting out on their way to pasture Escaldas has a real bathtub. Escaldas is

a village with hot sulphur springs. The worried about the health of the poor na innkeeper has piped some of the water tive. The donkey, however, did not want into his cellar and built a bathtub. He to have anything to do with me. After a charges only twenty cents for a bath, little he got tired and stopped of his own which is really cheap considering the sweet will. The man freed his foot, and amount of water one gets. The bathtub then I began to feel for my own health. is as deep as it is long. If any future The gentleman's tranquillity of mind was visitor to Andorra, sojourning at Escalcompletely destroyed, and he had lots to das, wishes to sit down in his bath, I say about it. But I did not understand, advise him to smuggle a high chair into and as soon as I could, without awkward the tub with him.

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AN INN AT ESCALDAS

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