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Copyright. 1907, by Brown Bros., New York.


informing him that his name would be submitted for indorsement as a presidential candidate :

I do not think it proper for me to make any suggestion as to what the county committee should do or should not do. It is of the highest importance that the work of the administration shall be disinterested, and I shall do nothing to influence the selection or vote of delegates. I assume that the party representatives will take such action, whatever it may be, as they believe to be best. They have their duty and I have mine. I think my position is clearly understood.

That is what one would expect from him. One thing is certain, that if the people of New York, instead of the politicians, have their way, something will happen at Chicago that will deeply interest the Empire State and the entire American people. For the plain people can not see why what is so good for their interests in a state government should not be equally good for the whole country in the national government. The logic of it is simple – so simple that the politicians know well they have a hard task on their hands to evade its conclusions. The “people's man" is a hard man to beat, and Charles Evans Hughes is preëminently the people's man.

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Life in Andorra is still largely pastoral along the river Segre in Spain, south of and agricultural. It has no criminal class. Andorra, are as bad as those leading diIts prison doors are rusty from lack of rectly through the country. An Englishuse. Its government has never yet had to man, whom I met at a delightful small recognize prostitution. The screeching of village inn on the Segre, where he had the locomotive, the tooting of the auto come for a month of shooting, told me mobile, the gong of the electric car, the bugle of the rocking stage coach, and even the creakings of a wagon, have never penetrated the mountain confines of Andorra. Family life here is still patriarchal, as it was long ago in the olden days told about in the Bible. Let us raise the curtain and look into this interesting little country of elemental and natural, simple life.

To say that one has visited Andorra may sound quite ordinary, very much like visiting any other place. But it is in reality something quite different. From the nearest railway station in France over the mountains, through Andorra and down to the first railway station in Spain is at the least a journey of several days, and one that will not be forgotten in a year or two. My troubles were multiplied because, ignorant of what I was getting into, I started out on a bicycle.

PRIMITIVE METHODS OF TOBACCO CURING When leaving Ax, the last town in The fronts of the houses are utilized for this purpose France before the long climb to the top of the pass — Andorra is on the southern that the only thing to do was to load my watershed of the Pyrenees Mountains--I bicycle on a donkey's back, get on another ran into an American from Connecticut myself and go ahead. who called out, “Hello there! Where The burden of this is that Andorra is a are you going?

country without roads. Every one in it "Andorra," I answered.

rides a-horseback, or if not that, he rides “What! with a bicycle ?” he questioned. a mule or a donkey, or goes a-foot. The "That is my intention," I returned. highways are paths which follow the val

“Well, you will never get there," he leys, sometimes well up the mountain side, continued. Then being some eight or ten sometimes close down by the clear, cool years older than I, he gave me a good mountain stream, crossing and recrossing heart to heart talk. He said he had these streams by picturesque high-arched traveled all over Europe on a bicycle, and bridges. They go around the fields, and even into the Ural Mountains between in the villages around the houses, instead Russia and Siberia ; that he was very fond of having the fields and houses placed in of the sport, but that it was impossible reference to them. Often they are filled for any one to go through Andorra on a with stone and rocks varying as to largebicycle. Only that day he had returned ness from the size of chestnut coal to that from a trip through Andorra on a donkey, of good big cabbages. Walking is bad, and he said he knew the highways.

while it would be quite impossible to ride This advice caused me to change my or push a bicycle. A bicycle, of course, plans slightly, and I decided to go around could be picked up and carried, but such Andorra and, leaving my bicycle on the a task, especially if the bicycle had fifteen south, to go up into the country from that to twenty pounds of baggage on it, would side. The little country does not measure be likely to make one forget the joy of over eighteen miles across in any direc- traveling. tion, but going around it was more easily Such are the main highways in Anplanned than done, for the highways dorra. The secondary highways are even


more remarkable. In one place I followed them. Here is what he was doing. He a path for two hours which was nothing was leading one. The second was tied to more than roughly constructed stone steps the tail of the first; the third to the tail zigzagging up the mountain side. At the of the second, and the fourth to the tail end of these steps I found myself on a of the third. In this style of Indian file, sloping shelf containing a hundred acres man and horses were traveling over moun

tain trails where the uninitiated would find it dizzy and difficult work to go with his hands free to help his feet.

Andorra consists of one main valley and several smaller tributary valleys lying among overtowering mountains. Many of these mountains are well wooded near their tops. Below the forests the mountain sides are used for the most part for pasturing goats, sheep and cattle. Lower down there is some terracing. These terraces and the bottoms of the valleys are irrigated and planted largely to tobacco. There are, however, some meadows, and these were beautifully green in the middle of September when I was there. Near the village of Andorra they were just cutting a crop of hay. This hay an Andorran gets to his barn either on his own back or on the back of his horse, mule or donkey. The animal wears a rack, and when

loaded the combination looks like a small A STREET IN THE VILLAGE OF ANDORRA stack of hay on four spindle legs. Close Andorra is the capital of the republic, but some of its

at hand, the nose of the animal can be streets have stone steps cut in the mountain side discovered at one end of the stack, and it

looks not unlike the head of a turtle when or so of tillable grain land with a small drawn well back under its shell. pilgrimage chapel, a pretty little lake and From time immemorial the Andorrans three patriarchal homesteads.

have been famous smugglers, and to-day For some distance up these steps, I was the smuggling of tobacco is one of the accompanied by an Andorran and his don- most lucrative professions in the country. key. The donkey carried a heavy load on It is, however, confined to young men, for his back, but he took the steps quite as it is strenuous work. French and Spanish easily as I. At the first fork, master and patrols watch the Andorran frontier day donkey turned off to the right. They were and night. To get into France, I was going to another little shelf on the moun- told, is difficult and dangerous work, while tain side farther along, or perhaps to a entering Spain is an uncertain matter. forest camp or a shepherd's hut.

A young man takes a load of tobacco on Often these Andorran paths are steeper his back, and, avoiding all paths and trails than steep stairs. In places they lead where he would be most likely to run into along the edges of precipices. Almost patrols, he often scales the highest mounalways they are so narrow that it is just tains and in this way gets down into possible for two animals to pass in meet- Spain. Should he find himself within ing. One Andorran I met on one of these sight of a Spanish patrol, he does not run steep and narrow paths was taking four but sits down on the ground and waits young horses home to pasture. He had for the patrol to approach. When the bought them at the live-stock fair down latter is as near as the rules of the game at Ax, and his manner of handling single- permit (a certain distance has been estabhanded all four horses was interesting. lished as proper by long custom), he To drive them was obviously impossible, stops, and, leaning against his gun, gazes and it was also impossible to lead all of over at the Andorran. The Andorran


PICTURESQUE ANDORRA In the foreground is the village of Las Escaldas. Across the valley, which is planted with olives and tobacco, is the

village of Andorra, the capital of the country

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