Imágenes de páginas
PDF
EPUB

chosen people; the poorer of whom, indeed, I see daily crowding round his doors. Lady Montefiore is a favourite with every body. Sir Moses kindly offered to take me in his suite to the Sultan, but, as I found difficulty in getting a dress, and it was thought not regular in me to be presented here except by Lord Ponsonby, I was obliged reluctantly to decline it. After dinner, about half-past seven, they all got ready; Sir Moses looking splendid in his lieutenancy uniform, rows of servants with torches, and a crowd waiting out of doors. I sallied out with them; and as the dark, narrow, and steep lanes would not allow the carriages to come within a quarter of a mile, we with lights descended on foot down steep muddy precipices, crowds of faces looking from the windows to see the unwonted spectacle which the flaming lights we bore alone illuminated. We at last got to the carriages in a crowded narrow lane, and saw them start in procession, after which I returned as I best could with my lanthorn to my own dwelling. The reception they met with from the Grand Signor was most flattering. Sir Moses read an address; and the young Sultan with much propriety spoke in answer, promising protection to the scattered tribes in Syria, and expressing his conviction of the innocence of the accused. All this is remarkable. Our excellent friend, Sir Moses, will not claim a comparison with the great son of Amram, nor can the Sultan be compared with Pharaoh, but he has the satisfaction here, as well as in Egypt, to have accomplished the relief of a persecuted remnant of Israel

from oppression, and from the house of bondage; and I truly envy Sir Moses his feelings.

This letter has extended beyond what I intended; and, though hurried and desultory, will you please to keep it, that I may refer to it at a future time. We have not yet settled our movements; but I have got out my colours, and am collecting what I can in sketches.

D. W.

JOURNAL, continued.

Nov. 10th. Went to Constantinople with Captain Leigh. Much struck with the beauty of the Turkish

women.

11th. Had a call from a young Turk of rank, secretary to Redschid Pacha, brought by Dr. Dixon; he sat for a head. Heard of the taking by assault of St. Jean d'Acre. Had a dinner; invited Captain Leigh and Mr. Worthington upon the great occasion; passed with the friends in the house a jolly evening.

13th. Painted nearly the whole day: was called on by Dr. Forbes, who has travelled with Lord and Lady Londonderry.

14th. Lord and Lady Canning having a firman to see the mosques and the palace, we proceeded on board their yacht, when we went over first the mosque of Soleiman, and then to the great mosque of St. Sophia, with the size and taste of which, in its interior contrivance, we were greatly struck. Went then to the palace: saw there a number of beautiful apartments.

Sunday, 15th. Went to church. Made a visit with Mr. and Mrs. Redhouse to an Armenian family: was

interested beyond measure with the whole appearance of the house, the lady and family, and visiters; a most remarkable sight. Were received with the greatest kindness.

17th. Attended Lord and Lady Canning to the new palace of the Sultan: returned home, and painted. Mr. and Mrs. Redhouse, and the Effendi, their friend, dined with us: had a pleasant day with them.

TO THOMAS WILKIE.

Constantinople, 17th Nov. 1840.

We are generally informed here of what passes in England, and have to lament the death of Lord Holland, to me unexpected, as I had seen him just before I left. I have written, through the Foreign Office, a letter of condolence to Lady Holland. I lose in him a most kind, steady, and powerful friend. To Lady Holland this event will be a great affliction.

Mr. Woodburn and I continue on here in the house of Madame Giuseppini, surrounded by other travellers, and most kindly entertained by the English residents in this place. The active and splendid warfare now waging in the East has delayed our movement in that direction, and we are daily watching events in expectation of a favourable opening to our progress. At first, affairs seemed adverse to us, and Mr. Woodburn got impatient, and almost broached the idea of a homeward course; but the good feeling and hospitality of all around us have reconciled us both to continue our stay. Indeed, having myself got out my colours, and had additional panels prepared, I am hard at

[blocks in formation]

work both painting and drawing from such selection as can be made from the exuberance of paintable matter every day presents us with. Mr. Woodburn also finds us ample occupation, making occasional sketches, hunting out sights, and collecting curiosities. He is so much liked in the society we visit, for his good humour, politeness, and, I might say, wit in conversation, that he has been styled the governor, the padrona, and the chairman of our sittings.

Amidst the weeks we have passed in anxious expectation of news from England, from France, and from Syria, our desires have been gratified in a remarkable manner by the glorious account of the siege and conquest of St. Jean d'Acre. This spread over Constantinople like wild-fire, gladdening every one, Turk, Jew, and Christian, and even, it is said, exciting the young Sultan to a kind of frenzy of joy. Woodburn, of course, was by no means behind in the universal hilarity, and we had a royal feast to celebrate the event. We had an Austrian, a Russian, and an English naval officer, in the service of the Turks; we had the toasts of the Emperor of Austria, Queen Victoria, and the Sultan. Our countrymen continued the jollity when the others had left, and I could still hear, after I had retired, the merriment kept up by the resounding cadences of the song of "The good old English Gentleman."

Having the advantage of a firman, which Lord Canning had procured, we attended his Lordship and Lady Canning to the mosque of the Sultan. We took Turkish slippers with us, and found people waiting with baskets filled with slippers should we have

wanted them. We put the slippers over our boots. We were pleased with the mosques; but the impression made by the interior of the mosque of St. Sophia was indeed great. great. We found, on entering, a number of wild Egyptians, who had been bivouacking in the vestibule; they looked like Bedouins, Ethiopians, or dwellers in Mesopotamia, and seemed to regard us, with our privilege of the firman, as intruders in the sanctuary of the faithful. We next went to the palace of the Seraglio which, with gardens, baths, stables, and numerous suites of apartments, occupies a large portion of ground on which stood the ancient Byzantium. Yours and Helen's letters always interest me, and equally Mr. Woodburn.

D. W.

18th. Called on Lewis; saw his sketches; advised him to begin a Paul Veronese subject. Began a new subject. Admiral Walker called. Dined at 7 o'clock with the Baron Behir: found him most intelligent on the subject of the scenes of the Iliad and Odyssey: a most pleasant evening. Recollected at night that this is my birthday-completing my fifty-fifth year: many circumstances to rejoice at and be thankful for; good health being one.

19th. Mr. Alison called with miniature of Mehemet Ali, which he left for me to copy. Began picture of A Tartar narrating in a Turkish Café the Victory of the taking St. Jean d'Acre.*

* Sold at the Wilkie sale, for 175 guineas, and engraved as one of the Oriental Sketches.

« AnteriorContinuar »