Heel, length, width, and across the breast,

of an inch. Width of sole at ball and shank, of an inch. Length of counter, of an inch. The length of the heel must be measured from the center of the breast, after being breasted, to the center of the back of the heel. Height of quarter at the side to be measured from the top of the quarter to the upper side of sole in a vertical line with the breast of the heel. A variation of of an inch will be permitted in all the above measurements except those of the heel and sole, in which a variation of of an inch is permissible, provided that in the same measurements in the two shoes of a pair there shall not be a greater difference than of an inch.

Workmanship and finish. The vamp and quarters and all top stitching to be with best standard "D" silk, sustaining a tensile strength of not less than twelve pounds, and best quality W. B. three-cord linen thread, No. 60, about fourteen stitches to the inch. Three rows of stitching on quarter passing through the lace stay and four rows of stitching passing through the quarter and vamp. Four extra half rows at the tabs through the vamp, quarter, tongue, and lining, all as shown in the standard sample. The side lining to be neatly skived and of such length as to lap over counter at least inch and to extend to the toe cap. To be about 14 inches in width, tapering off to a point about inch wide at the toe cap. Rubber cemented to the vamp.

Shoes sizes 5 to 8, inclusive, to have six eyelets on each side with celluloid tops. Sizes 9 to 12, inclusive, to have seven eyelets on each side. The eyelets to be not less than of an inch inside diameter, as shown in the standard sample.

Lasting. The shoes must be pulled over at the toe and heel by hand. Chase or Copeland's machines, or equal, may then be used to finish the lasting, so as to carefully wipe or crimp the toe and heel into place. The shoe across the ball and through shank must be finished by hand lasting. The upper must be securely fastened to the insole by the welt, sewed with 10-cord best shoe thread, thoroughly waxed, not less than three and one-half stitches to the inch, sewed by the Goodyear welt machine, or equal; the oak shank piece to be shaped and properly skived to fit the shank space and extend back under the heel § of an inch, to be securely cemented with best rubber cement, avoiding the use of pegs or ordinary paste. The top piece to be properly evened and rolled, gauging for all sizes when prepared for use of an inch in thickness or a No. 5 substance, Snell & Atherton's United States Quartermaster's Department standard gauge.

Outsoles. The outsoles to be cut from the backs while an inspector is present, who will take charge of and see them rolled with the proper pressure, no shoulders, heads, bellies, or flanks to be used. Any sole that gauges of an inch in thickness, or a No. 5 United States Quartermaster's Department standard gauge or over, after being properly skived and rolled, to be acceptable for all sizes. Cemented and laid with the Goodyear sole-laying machine, or equal, and rounded on the Universal rough rounder, or equal.

The outsoles to be stitched with the Goodyear lock-stitching machine, or equal, with the best nine-cord stitching thread, about 8 stitches to the inch, soles to be properly leveled. The heel seat to be securely nailed with loose nailing machines, and the heel secured by the use of the McKay & Bigelow machine, or equal, with No. 14 Swede iron nails, 1 inches long, 3 to the inch, with 2 additional at breast to secure the shank piece. The top piece to be slugged with steel wire, letter P or No. 125, of an inch in length, not less than 7 slugs to the inch. To have not less than 10 slugs in the inner row and not less than 5 at breast. All as shown in the sealed standard sample. To be slugged with the Universal machine, or equal.

The heels to be properly trimmed, finished, and burnished. The edges to be trimmed square, with the exception of the inside shank, which is to be rounded, set up twice with hot irons, made solid and smooth. The sock lining to be of russet sheep, bark tanned, of good quality, well secured in place with either rubber cement or fish glue.

Each pair of shoes to be furnished with a pair of tubular cotton laces not less than 32 inches in length, with metal tip at each end. Laces to stand a strength strain of not less than 120 pounds; to be of brown, of shade shown in the sealed standard sample, the dye to be fast.

The shoes must be of uniform color, each pair properly mated as to uniformity of substance, and to be constructed in accordance with the standard sample.

Each pair of shoes to be properly treed and cleaned. No injurious substance or artificial coloring matter to be used.

Bottoms of all shoes to be thoroughly cleaned and polished, as shown in the standard sample.

Each pair of shoes to be packed in a strong pasteboard carton.

The length and width of shoes to be marked on bottom and lining, as shown in the tandard sample.

Adopted January 31, 1908, in lieu of specifications of April 25, 1906 (No. 809), April 26, 1906 (Nos. 810, 811, and 813), October 31, 1906 (No. 840), and February 18, 1907 (No. 851), which are canceled.

NOTE. Any question arising as to alleged differences between these specifications and standard samples must be submitted to the Quartermaster-General, U. S. Army, for his decision.

The contractor to furnish the contracting officer with the first delivery of shoes, and from time to time thereafter, when called upon, samples of all threads used, the cotton tape, and vamp lining. Name of contractor and date of contract to be stamped on nside of quarter near top of each shoe, using only the best indelible ink.

J. B. ALESHIRE, Quartermaster-General, U. S. Army,

SPECIFICATIONS FOR DRESS COATS.

WAR DEPARTMENT,

OFFICE OF THE QUARTERMASTER-GENERAL.

Materials. To be made of 17-ounce dark-blue cloth, black lasting, black and drab silesia, black padding, buckram, tape, cord-edge braid, buttons, collar clasps, gray padding, shoulder pads, hooks and eyes, sewing silk, silk twist, and linen thread; each to be of the army standard grade or as in the standard sample dress coat.

Pattern. A single-breasted six-button sack coat, to have side bodies, seam in back, vents in under-arm seams, standing collar, shoulder straps, coat hanger, cuffs on sleeves, and one inside breast pocket. An allowance of one-quarter of an inch is made for all seams. All patterns will be furnished by the Quartermaster's Department. Piecing, skimping, or altering of patterns in any way whatsoever is strictly prohibited.

Collar.—To be well stiffened by an interlining of buckram; corners slightly rounded, to be closed by means of two black japanned hooks and eyes, securely fastened into the interlining of the collar. On the inner surface of the collar to be placed three collar clasps properly spaced and securely fastened to the interlining of the collar. To have a hanger stitched on at center of back. All as shown in the standard sample. Shoulder straps.-To be of two thicknesses of the same material as the body of the coat; to have a neatly worked buttonhole of proper size; to be stiffened with one thickness of French canvas for the full length, reenforced midway by two additional pieces; to be placed on and stitched to the coat, as shown in the standard sample.

Pockets. To have one inside breast pocket, made of black silesia, placed in the left side with a perpendicular opening, the opening beginning on a line about opposite the center of the space between the second and third buttonholes from the top, neatly faced with black lasting and securely tacked at the corners; to be stayed by a row of stitching through the lining. All as shown in the standard sample.

Sleeves. To be so placed as to set properly, the fullness of sleeve head to be well pressed in; to be lined with drab silesia; finished with cuffs and cord-edge braid; the turn up of cuffs to be securely fastened to the sleeve proper: the sleeve linings to be either hand felled or machine stitched securely and neatly at the cuffs and arm scyes; the outside seams of sleeve lining to be fastened to the outside seam of sleeve; the arm scye to be stayed with tape from the shoulder to the under-arm seam; gray felt padding is to be stitched to the lining at back of arm scye from the shoulder to the under-arm seam; made-up shoulder pads are to be placed in the shoulders in proper position. All as shown in the standard sample.

Edges. The front edges to be stayed with tape and stitched, the bottom to be double stitched. All as shown in the standard sample.

Buttonholes.-The coat to have 8 buttonholes. Large buttonholes to be worked over double gimp No. 9; small holes to be worked over single gimp No. 9; all as closely worked as those shown in the standard sample. Buttonholes to be neatly and securely bar-tacked, the bar-tacking to be a separate operation from that of the working of the buttonhole.

Facings. To be of the same material as the body of the coat, placed on and stitched as shown in the standard sample. The fore parts to be well worked in and securely stayed with tape. All as shown in the standard sample.

Cord-edge braid.-The collar, shoulder straps, and cuffs to be finished with cordedge braid, color according to the arm of the service. All as shown in the standard sample.