riages to witness the arrival of the coaches and to welcome friends. I often witnessed this scene, and it never lost its interest for me.

Petropolis is in a valley, and the mountain sides are covered with the residences of the wealthy class of Rio, who make it a summer resort. Bright, clear streams, with walled banks run through the streets, and are crossed by ornamental bridges. The palace of the Emperor, surrounded by gardens, is beautifully situated near the centre of the place. Fine roads are seen stretching away in the distance, affording delightful walks and drives. Finer views of mountain stretches, of scenery surrounding the town, I have never seen. I have walked for hours through the enchanting country that meets the view in every direction.

The Emperor enjoys his summer sojourn here. He has his books, and takes short excursions, driving or walking. There are settlements in the neighborhood where colonists from Germany and Switzerland live in contentment.

I have met the Emperor walking in the streets of Petropolis as a private gentleman from time to time, when he would stand and converse with me in a pleasant social way. His ministers came from Rio to confer with him, and he made regular visits to the capital. The presence of several members of the Diplomatic Corps in Petropolis heightened the interest of this fine summer residence.

Mr. Ford, the English Minister, had a residence of rare attractions, where his daughter welcomed guests and gave brightness to the hospitable home. My intercourse with Mr. Ford was full of interest to me; his fine attainments, his sympathy with the people of my country, his scholarly tastes, and his genial disposition attracted me from the first hour of our meeting.

Mr. Goschen, Secretary of Legation, had married an American lady, a bright, beautiful woman, who still loved her country; and I always found his house one of the

A SUMMER AT PETROPOLIS.

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most attractive places in Petropolis. He was a brother of Honorable Mr. Goschen, member of the House of Commons, who was so distinguished for his financial ability.

Baron Schreiner, the Austrian Minister, had a house there, and I found him an interesting man, a statesman of large experience and liberal views. He had served in the United States, and felt a warm regard for our country. The Baroness, a lady of culture and pleasing manners, still retained pleasant remembrances of Washington.

At that time a gentleman was passing the summer at Petropolis whom I had met in Rio, and of whom I had formed a high estimate-Mr. Nabuco. Young, thoroughly educated, already acquainted with Europe, having been attached to the Brazilian Embassy at London; of splendid physique and captivating manners, a member of the Chamber of Deputies, and a statesman of high promise, he bestowed attentions upon me which were appreciated. In the whole course of my life I had met no one whose future seemed brighter. He was the son of an eminent man-a learned jurist and a great statesman, whose splendid career was cut short by death. The son promised to fulfil the destiny of his distinguished father. We were much together, meeting in society, and walking and driving day after day. He glittered in the firmament of his country like a morning star, and his subsequent career has fulfilled the promise of his youth. He already gave his support to measures for the advancement of his country in the march of nations. Ambitious, but unselfish, he devoted his fine powers to the cause of humanity. Foremost among those who desired the emancipation of the slaves, he had been elected president of the Antislavery Society of Brazil.

At the close of the summer we returned to Rio-the Emperor, the Diplomatic Corps, and those who had sought a retreat from the discomfort and the danger of a residence at the capital during that season.

The opening of the session of the parliament gave animation and interest to the city.

The statesmen of Brazil exhibited great interest in public affairs. Some of them were men of culture, and had enjoyed the advantages of European travel. From an early period the statesmen of the empire had been distinguished for ability and learning. They had guided the political affairs of the country successfully. While some of the other states of South America had been disturbed by revolutions, the imperial government, under its liberal constitution, had exhibited a stability that won for it the respect and the confidence of other nations.

Those who controlled public affairs during my residence there were men of a high order, conservative and yet progressive, extending the protection of the government to the most remote part of the vast country which it embraced.

Its foreign representatives were recognized as men of ability and character, and illustrated the diplomatic service; they maintained the dignity of the imperial government.

The financial affairs of the nation were conducted with great success, and the public credit was high in the great commercial centres of Europe.

The press is as free and independent in Rio as it is in London and New York. The papers published there display enterprise and great ability; they are in full sympathy with the best journals of the great cities in Europe and the United States. The circulation of some of them is very large, and their influence is powerful over public sentiment.

CHAPTER XXXIII.

Leave of Absence to Visit the United States-Meet Mrs. Hilliard and Daughters in Paris-London-Sunday-Mr. Spurgeon-Evening Service in St. Paul's Cathedral-Liverpool-Voyage-New York-Washington -President Hayes-Georgia.

Mrs.

LEAVE of absence was granted me to visit home. Hilliard and daughters had passed some three years in Stuttgart, and had greatly enjoyed their residence there. No place in Europe could have been more agreeable to them or offered greater advantages. They had made excursions to the Rhine, to Switzerland, and other attractive resorts. They now desired to return home.

Having obtained leave of absence from Rio to visit the United States, I arranged that my family should meet me in Paris. Anticipating my coming, they took leave of Stuttgart, and had been in Paris some time before I reached there. They met some agreeable people from our country in that city, and had with them already enjoyed some sight-seeing.

Upon my arrival we passed some days in looking through picture galleries, and visiting places of interest in the city and its environs. We enjoyed a visit to Versailles greatly. The magnificence of the palaces, the historic associations, the works of art-statues and pictures,the gardens and fountains were objects of attraction to us for hours. Two works of art specially interested the ladies. One was David's picture of the coronation of Napoleon, which I had seen before. The Emperor, self

crowned, heroic, in robes which recalled the glory of antiquity, placed the diadem upon the head of Josephine, who knelt before him; the surrounding objects were reminders of unparalleled triumphs.

The other-the statue which represents Napoleon at St. Helena in his declining days, seated, the grand head, the open drapery revealing the frame wasting under the touch of disease, the map of Europe spread before him, his right hand resting upon France, his eyes expressing the depth of a shadow that was upon his soul-constituted the most impressive work of the sculptor that I had ever

seen.

We took leave of Paris with regret; when we reached Calais and embarked for Dover we found the channel rough, but the day was bright, and we bore up cheerfully through our short run to Dover.

Once more in London we took apartments at the Charing Cross Hotel. We waited over until after Sunday, which is a day of real interest to me in London. Sunday morning opened brightly, and we made our way to Spurgeon's Tabernacle. The doors were not yet opened, and a large number of people stood waiting to be admitted; we were so fortunate as to find a friendly usher as we entered, who conducted us to the first gal lery, and found places for us near the pulpit, where we had a good view of the preacher and the audience. There must have been upwards of six thousand people present, many of them standing, and a large number filling the doorways. Mr. Spurgeon had not yet entered. I studied with interest the picture before me. The auditorium was immense, and in the form of an amphitheatre, with galleries rising one above the other. The pulpit was a desk placed on a wide platform, upon which several gentlemen-official persons-were seated. I had never seen the great preacher who had awakened such a wonderful religious interest in London, and who had already