PROLOGUE

CONTENTS.

CHAPTER I.

Marseilles-Passengers-Corsica-Napoleon and Monte Christo-A political

discourse-A pathetic and poetic appeal.

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CHAPTER II.

Alexandria-A well-meant effort at the poetical-An artistic discussion-Per-

spective and Ru-tew-shan-Odours of Araby-The bombardment—

Alexandria of the Ptolemies-Rhacotis-Heptastadium-Museum—

Library-The oldest street in the world-The Soma-The Paneum-

Theatre Canopic Gate-Cæsareum-Nineteenth-century Vandals—

Pompey's Pillar-Serapeum

CHAPTER III.

Ramleh Mahmoudieh Canal-Nicopolis-An Egyptian judge-The luxury of

the law-Consular protection or free-trade in crime-The temple of

Arsinoë-The hair of Berenice-An early Christian cemetery

CHAPTER IV.

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Alexandria to Cairo-Egyptian railway administration-Harmless warfare—

Surrender of Kafr Dawar-Blunt patriots-Taking of Tantah-Taking

of Cairo

CHAPTER V.

The Shepheard Angel-Cairo streets-Shepheard's-Shepheard king Luigi-

The Shepheard smile-The Shepheard dinner-Shepheard chickens,

their pedigree and training-Cairo in twenty-four hours-Cook's tours-

Cook the national schoolmaster-A large order.

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Cairo from Mokhattam-Seventy centuries-Cairo of "Arabian Nights”-

Cairo according to Ariosto-The Muski-Khan Khalili-Cairo of the

Khedives-Sequence of history-A vast plan

CHAPTER VII.

Pyramids of Ghizeh - Webbe's description, 1580 A.D. Knolles, 1600
—

A.D.-Sphinx-Patronising Harriet and ingenious Verulam-Emerson

and Stoddard—Recent excavation-Legend of Tutmes IV. and Sphinx

-Tutmes and Wilson-Fellow pilferers-Chronological discussion

-Archbishop Ussher-A compromise

CHAPTER VIII.

Boolak-Museum not inappropriately situated-Khafra-The wooden man-

Immutability of Egyptian type-Egyptian alternate slave and rebel

-Mummies-Sekenen Ra-Aahmes-Seti-Ramses II. and III.—

Pinotem De mortuis Comparative chronology - Antiquity of

Egyptian art-Petrified prayers-Vulgar pyramids-Hymn to Amen

Ra-Tale of the Doomed Prince

CHAPTER IX.

History The first man dissatisfied-Mena migrates to Memphis-Thinis the

religious centre-Memphis the capital-Origin of belief in duality of

existence-First 1000 years Egyptian history, prosperous-The next

900 years, power declines-Abraham-Rise of Thebes-Egypt abandons

non-intervention policy-Upper and Lower Egypt united-Prosperity

of 200 years-Darkness of 1200 years-Hyksos invasion-Joseph and

his brethren-Apathy of conquered-Civil war-Hyksos expelled—

Thebes the capital and Memphis commercial centre

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CHAPTER X.

The Dovecot flies south-A luxurious offer-Rail to Asyoot-The Pasha and the

Nabob-Coinage and character-Secretary and interpreter-Crichton

and Sara-Capitulations-Pyramids-Zeitoun-St. George and Horus 76

CONTENTS.

CHAPTER XI.

Asyoot-No kourbash, no taxes-Mosquito nets of Herodotus-Fanciful origin

of the Lycopolis-Asyoot en fête-Sub-Mudir-Egyptian in authority

Turk versus Egyptian Can the Egyptian rule?—Bazaars-Apathy of

sellers-Asyoot trade past and present-Asyoot worthies-American

Mission-Reform of Coptic Church from within and from without-

Sincerity of converts-Education of pupils and education of people-

Both ab initio Asyoot Cemetery View from Libyan range Pasha and

Mudir-Information at Asyoot via Cairo.

CHAPTER XII.

The Cleopatra-Capuan luxury-Aboutiz-Gow-el-Kebir-Circumstantial alle-

gory-Disgraceful hoax of a Pope-Saint or serpent-Sara's credulous

scepticism-Girgeh-Sara on the Turk-Sohag-Rivers all swindles-

The Nile at a gallop-Value of official information-Cost of government

in Egypt-Priapus v. Sir Gardner-Abydos-Tomb of Osiris-Roman

affection for Memnon misleading-A Sunset-Keneh-Anxiety of

Mudir-Sara's greatness-Dancing-girls-Osiris at Abydos-Egyptolo-

gists and myths

CHAPTER XIII.

Denderah-Temples not places of worship, but ceremonial-A religious cere-

mony-Royal road to study of Arabic-A river pedlar-Capitulations

again-Pro and con-Egyptian of twelfth century-Saladin-Origin

of Capitulations-Coptos-Koos-Unexpected visit-Dignity going

begging-An unwilling Sheik el Beled Results of cultivation in Egypt

Alleged over-taxation of Fellaheen Secret of poverty of Egyptian

landowners An instance Ignorance as to own financial position—

Karnac in sight

CHAPTER XIV.

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History Thebes comparatively modern-Retrospect, sixth to seventeenth

dynasty-Eighteenth dynasty-Foreign wars necessary-Populous No.

-Aahmes, Amenhoteb, and Tutmes-Expansion of Egypt-Queen

Hatasou Colonial policy-Tutmes III.-Foreign conquests-The land

of Canaan in the hieroglyphs-Amenhoteb III.-The Colossi The

first European reformer in Egypt-A religious reformation-Change

of dynasty

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CHAPTER XV.

History The Ramesides-Ramses I.-Seti I.—Ramses II.—An heroic exploit

and mild rebuke—Seti II.—The first Judenhetze-Moses a general in

the Soudan-The Exodus in Scripture and papyrus-Ramses III. at

home—At war—A naval battle-Rise of the Priestly power-Priest-

kings of San-Egypt the bone of contention between Ethiopia and

Assyria-Assyrian conquest-Thebes pillaged-Dodecharchy-Saite

Dynasty-Prophetic warning against Suez Canal-Persian conquest-

Visits of Herodotus and Plato-Alexander the Great-The Trinity of

Thebes .

CHAPTER XVI.

Post-haste-The Pasha's energy-Sara on archæology and Ismail—Reform

and popularity-The effect on the governing classes-Effect on the

governed The date of English evacuation-Erment-Esneh-Reli-

gious toleration-Edfoo-Herodotus" Contrariness" of Egyptians

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CHAPTER XVII.

Silsilis-Assouan-English officers and Egyptian troops-Juvenal at Syene-

An unkind prophecy-Will the Egyptian fight?-Assouan railway

station-An unwelcome telegram-Elephantine-Philoe-Southward to

the Cataract The Reis rebels-Value of a Pasha's life-Rock ahead

-The Reis in command-Agonising moments-Safety and baksheesh 138

CHAPTER XVIII.

Southward to Luxor Popular opinion in Egypt-Origin of Arabi movement-

Gladstone and Blunt-Penultimatums-The Arabi myth-Egypt for the

Egyptians-Our false start-Things done and undone-Shelley, Keats,

and Leigh Hunt on the Nile-The Nabob as a poet-A new passenger 146

CHAPTER XIX.

The new arrival—Sleep a luxury-The sleepless Joseph-Joseph the creator

of Egypt--A new theory-Fayoum and the Land of Goshen-The Bahr

Jussef the work of Patriarch Joseph-Tradition of Murtadi-The crea-

tion of the Fayoum-An original derivation-The field of Zoan and the

land of Ham-Israelite exodus-Did they cross the Nile?—The bless-

ing of Jacob-Jacob's will and testament-A new reading of an old

text-Qualified approbation-Back to Shepheard's
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