Imágenes de páginas
PDF
EPUB

spread on a mat and carpet in the centre of the square.

The M'zab once possessed an eighth city, Metlili, which is reached by a dry ravine, about eight leagues S.W. of Beni Isguen. It is an extensive oasis with walls like the rest, but was conquered some centuries back by the Arabs of the Chaamba tribe, the most lawless and predatory of the clans of the Sahara. These Amalekites have taken advantage of houses built, wells digged, and palm-trees planted to their hand, and have become dwellers in a city, which is now the capital of their widely extended territory, and, unlike Waregla and N'goussa, has no Gætulian or Berber population. The language, however, is neither Arabic, Kabyle, nor M'zab, but probably a corrupt dialect of the Kabyle or Berber tongue.

The town is built exactly like Bounoura on the side of a hill, with its two tall mosque-towers, the upper one fast crumbling to decay. The streets are narrow and filthy; and the squalor of all around presents a striking contrast to the neatness and cleanliness of the M'zab. Half the houses are in ruins, and the owners seem to want the energy to repair them. Yet the palm-groves are good and extensive, and with proper care would surpass those of any M'zab city. The inhabitants depend chiefly upon the date-trade for subsistence, and, unlike their neighbours, have no caravans. The place does not repay a visit, and the character of the people is so treacherous and inhospitable that the traveller is ill-advised who needlessly ventures among the Chaamba. Their government is after the Arab fashion, two sheiks holding an uncertain and often disputed authority over two septs.

Having explored the whole of the neighbouring terri

[ocr errors]

tory, we would not further wear out our welcome. Our intention of proceeding to Guerrara having been announced, old Bouhammed, the Kadi of Mellika, and Bayou of Beni Isguen appeared early the following morning to pay their respects. Bayou had brought with him an Arab bit for my " Gazelle " as a parting gift. A more acceptable present could not have been devised; for "Gazelle " despised a French snaffle, and, when he became excited, my efforts to hold him were impotent. The Arab bit consists of a stout curb; but in lieu of a chain, a strong iron ring plays on a swivel attached to the centre of the bit. This ring is slipped over the lower jaw of the horse when the bit is put into his mouth, and gives a powerful leverage to the bridle. No horse can possibly resist its force, and, feeling its power, seldom attempts a second struggle. The rider, too, soon learns the value of a light hand, for the slightest weight on his rein brings his horse on its haunches.

Bayou declined tobacco with a knowing wink, evidently afraid of being seen, but, on being questioned, hinted that he would not refuse a specimen of English silk. I fortunately had a handsome India handkerchief ready for him. The old Kadi of Mellika accepted on the sly a gift of a pound of tobacco and half a pound of snuff, and reiterated his promise to assist me in my search for eggs and birds. They both consented to stay to breakfast off their own fowls and eggs. Their supplies were opportune, as the expected kouskousou never arrived, and out of compliment to us the chiefs made heroic and not altogether unsuccessful attempts to use forks and spoons. We wound up with dates and apologies, coffee and ditto, and Bayou bid us a hearty farewell as he sprang upon his noble charger. He was

a fine, open-faced, open-hearted fellow, one of nature's soldiers every inch.

In the evening our own kadi, who had commenced the day by a gift of a water-melon before we were astir, came in to pay his farewell visit of ceremony and take his forbidden luxury of a cup of coffee. A negro followed him bearing a huge basket of the finest dates, and eighteen flat loaves of barley bread, as a supply for our journey. He requested a letter to certify that we had been satisfied with our entertainment, and demurely smiled as I folded it in another silk handkerchief. We then gave him our cards and addresses, that the event of our visit might be duly enrolled in the national history.

CHAPTER XI.

Departure from Ghardaïa-The desert again-Wed N'ça -Vegetation in the wilderness - Effects of moisture Ostriches-AntelopeAn assault-Achmed's opinion of his race- -Guerrara - Full moon

-

-Festivities - Intestine warfare - Use of the arch-Tombs of the saints-Weddings- Dress- Demands on a hakeem-A traveller Timbuctoo - R'dames Touat Achmed's rebellion Amusing trial - The oldest inhabitant - Farewell to the M'zab.

from

THE combined effects of toothache and a zickar outside did not predispose to early rising, but at 4 A.M. we were in the square, the camels loaded, my lizard and palm-mice ensconced in the cages Omar had been for two days devising for their use, and Achmed, mounted on the waterskins, sent on in charge of the caravan. We turned back to our courtyard for coffee in company with the worthy kadi and my ratcatching friend.

Two hours' ride down the valley of the M'zab brought us abreast of El At'f, where we were met by a deputation of the ancients, with a present of dates and eggs, and a request we would remain a day or two with them. We were obliged to decline their proffered hospitality, when they expressed their earnest hope that we would report favourably of them to the English government. It was in vain to repeat our assurances that we had no official character. For what other purpose, asked they, could we choose to travel in such a poor country? They desired us to tell our countrymen that they would always find the M'zab honest traders, and punctual in payment. Eagerly did they inquire if there were any chance of their obtaining English cottons and cutlery, two articles from which they complained they have been entirely debarred ever

since the French got the coast. On hardware they were especially eloquent. "See, will this thing cut?" exbibiting a knife innocent of steel. But in the time of the Deys tools were to be had without sending through Morocco to Tangiers for them.

Soon after parting from these business-like gentlemen we watered our horses at the last well, where a boy was drawing, and turned up a steep slippery path from the wed. It was impossible to ride, and not one of our led horses escaped a fall. At the top of the ascent we bade farewell to the fair oases gleaming brightly in the morning sun, and were again in the dreary Chebkha. The temperature had changed at once, and the wind blew cold and bleak. One of our camels lay down, and refused to proceed further. Fortunately he was laden with water-skins, a burden easily distributed among the others. We were obliged to leave him to his fate, or rather to the care of an Arab who hove in sight with a herd of his own, whom we charged to conduct him to Ghardaïa, in trust to the kadi, to be sent by the first return caravan to his owner at Laghouat. Sooner or later he was sure to arrive there, for the laws of the desert on camels are, like those of hospitality, rarely transgressed except with a hostile tribe.

We were joined soon after by a solitary Arab horseman, on his way from Morocco to Souf, who seemed glad of our company, or rather of that of our servants, for a couple of days. The Wed Irhloh afforded scant shelter and a hard bed for the night, and early on the following morning, after crossing another piece of stony desert, we descended into the ravine of the Wed N'ça. This desert was covered with very sharp gravel, chiefly flints of various colours, the matrix of which had become decomposed into sand and been swept away by the winds. After following

[ocr errors]
« AnteriorContinuar »