fifth. Four men and a woman, travellers of the M'zab, had lain down in that spot and died of thirst: two hours more would have brought them to Berryan.

We were somewhat surprised to put up among the brushwood of the ravine a covey of Barbary partridge, the first we had found since we left the Tell, and were fortunate enough speedily to secure our dinner. We then entered a valley of loose stones between two ranges of honeycombed hills inhabited by various species of desert marmots and jerboas, and soon we welcomed on the top of one of the peaks a whitewashed marabout, the tomb of a Mussulman saint, Sidi Selama, and the landmark which told us we were close upon Berryan.

CHAPTER VIII.

Sudden view of Berryan — Strange contrast — Imposing procession The reception by the Parliament - The Kadi in full dress — A state dinner - Hospitality by taxation - Early callers-A travelled Mozabite - Arab tribe-Primitive loom - An auction-Traditions of the M'zab-Moab and Ammon-Spanish traveller-Saharan sewerage - Dove-shooting- Cultivation of gardens - Novel wells Ploughs - Forbidden sweets Degenerate kouskousou — An

exigéant Dragoman - The Kadi's farewell.

THE first glimpse of Berryan is almost startling. On each side of the ravine up which we rode was an empty watercourse, built up of unmortared stone, and showing that the constructors had contemplated the possibility of rain even here. On turning the shoulder of a hill to our left, up started a palm-grove straight before us, fenced with dry stone walls, which were protected by prickly shrubs at the top. The glaring white cliffs on either side, and the deep green feathery foliage of the palm, combined to render the scene more like the background of a stage than the palm-garden of sober cultivation. We turned the corner of the plantation, and descended into a narrow lane. On the left the date-palms were in full luxuriance, on the right was the sterile mountain range, till, stern nature yielding to patient toil, the groves skirted the road on either side.

Now we entered an open space, with low black Arab tents, gaunt camels, and yelping pariah dogs. High perched above, a white sepulchre glared conspicuously. The town soon opened on the hill-side, consisting of

flat-roofed, mud-plastered, windowless edifices, many of them with brown-looking arcades on the first floor. On the summit of the hill culminated the Semaâr or mosque, with a great quadrangular tower, like an immense factory chimney, brought abruptly to a point.

We passed a cemetery to the left, sloping to the ravine like that on the banks of the Kedron at Jerusalem, and then entered a narrow gateway, for the city is fortified by a dry stone wall plastered with mud, and defended by square towers, now crumbling to decay. The narrow streets were lined by white-burnoused natives sitting on the ground in long rows, all gazing and some saluting as we passed.

We had attempted to invest our entry with somewhat of state, all guns unslung, our cavaliers in front, and Omar behind us preceding the camels who brought up the rear. In this order we rode directly to the marketplace, the "Grand Place" of Berryan. In the square a dignitary with a huge wooden key encountered us, to whom our foremost cavalier presented our letter of commendation, this, however, being a mere form, as the kadi had preceded us by a few hours and proclaimed our approach. After some discussion with our guides, the official made us wheel round again and enter a narrow street.

When we had dismounted, a low door led us into a narrow passage, and this into a small open court, on three sides surrounded by pillared arches mud-built like the rest, while the fourth side was a heap of ruins. Above, there was a second story, similar in its arrangements to that below. We mounted by a crumbling staircase, obstructed at the top by a low

and most unnecessary door. The clay floor yielded under our feet, for the beams were but split palm-trees, and the laths the ribs of palm-leaves. This was the guest-house of the city. Several Berryans ascended with us. After long fumbling with the massive key a door was opened, and we were shown two low-arched rooms opening into each other, without any window, their roof supported by squared palm-tree pillars, dismal and mouldy, and earth dropping from the top. Our goods were hauled upstairs, not without remonstrance on our part, owing to the rickety condition. of the upper story. We took possession of the two chambers, while our horses were picketed in the court below.

A fine intelligent-looking lad voluntered his assistance to arrange our canteens and bedding, and proudly poured forth the half-dozen French words he had picked up, which made him a wonder to his fellows. A sun-dried unveiled female prepared the chamber, while a merrylooking damsel, white draped, but showing her red painted face and long red boots, eyed us from below, having evidently taken the red-legged partridge as her model of adornment.

After a time our quondam companion, the kadi's poor relation, now washed and combed, made his appearance. Then arrived the kadi himself profuse in hospitable expressions. Our carpet was spread in the verandah, and a negro bore on his shoulders a huge bunch of dates, which he laid in the centre of it. When we had partaken, our six attendants, cautiously approaching the carpet's edge, helped themselves with avidity. The official with the great key, whom we now discovered to be the secretary of the Djemmâa or

Parliament, presided over the proceeding, and took a whiff of our proffered pipes.

After an hour we were waited on in state by the kadi and some members of the Djemmâa. What a transformation! Our shabby-looking friend appeared in a full-puff turban of white muslin in loose folds, burnous of the finest material, snowy garments, washed and perfumed body beneath them, and embroidered red slippers, which he dropped at the door. He and his five confrères were seated on our beds, and we acted our several parts: P. did deportment, Omar the talking, and I brewed the tea.

While this was preparing, business followed the officials: a crowd of litigants blocked up the doorway; a case was tried in due form; the claimants clamoured and gesticulated, judgment was speedily delivered, and they retired. The chief, with his black eye sparkling under his shaggy brow, his black beard and deeply bronzed features, looked the kadi from head to foot. In compliment to us the hadj drank tea, though telling us it was against his conscience; and, bidding us call for whatever we might want, departed.

Our horses were soon supplied with barley, and we sat down before a bowl of half-warm kouskousou, about two feet in diameter, and, despising Arab etiquette, dipped with our spoons instead of fingers. Our six attendants were to eat after us. In our simplicity we imagined that the dish was very good; but Omar ominously demurred, it was not "première qualité" we were not treated with proper respect. dates and pomegranates could not assuage him. cavaliers were even more indignant. They scolded the members of the Djemmâa who came to inquire

Even

Our