abyss and the descending floods. Again, from a tower standing on a projecting rock, the whole extent of the upper falls can be seen; and from a second tower, lately erected in the so-called Pleasure Garden, you have a panoramic view of the lake, the rapids, the cataracts, the river, and the country round, such as the world besides cannot afford. We were taken in a light skiff over the foaming river to the Canadian shore; whence all the falls are seen, not sideways or foreshortened, but in their full breadth, and that too in an incredible variety of views, both near and remote, from below and from a first and second range of hills. A museum of objects of natural history merits all praise, but could not long engage our attention beside these miracles of nature; and I found still less satisfaction in peeping into a camera obscura. I had more pleasure in a drive to the Whirlpool, where the river makes a rapid turn, and then flows on to Lake Ontario. The falls, however, and their environs, are of such exuberant richness and splendor, that additional attractions like these, though of themselves deserving of all admiration, are not requir ed. Though the scenery which I beheld throughout a large extent of the United States was very much inferior to that of Europe, it must be admitted that the old world can offer nothing to equal Niagara. Such an accumulation of splendors would certainly well repay a voyage across the ocean. Although, as I remarked, the painter's art cannot fully depict the motion of the waters, there are yet a multitude of points and views, which might be represented with success, and would be well worthy of his labor.

In the hotel six long tables were set, full of guests, and served by thirty-six black waiters, among whom the division of labor was carried so far, that each had his department-of bread, knives and forks, spoons, &c.-assigned to him. These solo performers marched with regular steps to villanous table-music, and did all their work in measured time. Thus they came, thus they went; and thus each brought in his hand two dishes, which he deposited on the table as directed by two grand musical fermate.

We prolonged our stay at Niagara one day more, and again viewed the wonders of earth, water, and sky on all sides and from all points. Although a visit to the United States can have attractions but for few, and least of all for women, who with reason prefer Paris, Italy, Switzerland, and our own Germany so rich in natural beauty; yet I wish I could charm hither the true

votaries of nature, in order, after their many blanks, to show them this magnificent prize. I do not find fault with those whose love of nature enables them to be delighted with a simple meadow, a bed of flowers, a running brook, or a cloud; on the contrary, the true wisdom of life and its purest enjoyments are found in the use of this daily proffered food; and poor indeed is he who knows or values it not. But there are festal days for this kind of enjoyment too; and those spent at Niagara belong to the brightest and most memorable among them.

On Monday, the 22d, we made another circuit around Iris island; and then went on the railroad to Lockport. Some backward glimpses which we had of the falls were wondrously beautiful; we then passed into a pleasant, well cultivated country. From Lockport, noted for its great locks on the Erie canal, we proceeded in a stage-coach to Rochester. This town, like so many in America, has grown up very rapidly: it has new broad streets, handsome shops and houses, and beyond this central portion, numerous scattered buildings, all disposed according to a grand and bold plan laid down beforehand. The word with these towns seems to be, "Forward, march!" while that of many European cities is, "Stand at ease!" Rochester is remarkable for the pleasing variety and the taste displayed in its churches, public buildings, bridges, and aqueducts; which, in spite of differences in other respects, give it somewhat of an Italian air. Within the town, the Genesee, which is of considerable width, forms a beautiful waterfall, besides two other remarkable ones further down. Even to one coming from Niagara, these falls are extremely pleasing, and present several enchanting views, particularly from the lofty cliffs of red sandstone, overlooking the deep, narrow ravine through which the river flows. The drawing off of part of the water from the first fall, for manufacturing purposes, has been censured as detrimental to its beauty; but I cannot coincide in this judgment. Without regarding its great utility, there is a romantic look in the situation of the buildings perched on the ledge of rocks, while from between and beneath them larger or smaller streams are seen plunging into the deep valley below. These structures, to be sure, are no palaces of Mæcenas; but they answer the purpose, and may yet be found to admit of divers

ornaments.

On the 23d, we went from Rochester to Auburn, through a lovely and well tilled country; and enjoyed a sight of lakes Canandaigua, Seneca, and Cayuga, lying on our right. I shall speak in another place of the great prison at Auburn; besides, you would have more pleasure in seeing the fine new country houses, with their charming gardens, than in surveying those silent tombs of living men.

On the afternoon of the 24th, we arrived by the railroad at Syracuse. Its useful salt-works have no pretension to beauty, and some hills near it have been too soon stripped of their timber; on the other side however it is adorned here and there with pretty country seats. We proceeded on the 25th by canal from Syracuse to Oswego on Lake Ontario. The boat was drawn fast enough, by horses; and the absence of the noise of a steamengine gave a novel and pleasing character of quietness to this passage betwixt green banks. A hill near Oswego commands an extensive prospect over Lake Ontario, whose shores are somewhat richer in scenery than those of the other great American lakes. On the 26th, we took passage, on board the Lady of the Lake for Ogdensburgh; and thence, on the 27th, on board the Pioneer for Montreal.

The St. Lawrence river does not perhaps afford more beautiful views than the Ohio, but it certainly far surpasses the monotonous and turbid Mississippi. Its water is of a clear green; the Thousand Islands present in rapid succession a variety of foregrounds and backgrounds, interrupted with streaks or sheets of water. Here the river expands into the large lakes St. Louis and St. Francis; there it contracts itself so that the boat is tossed about among pow erful rapids. These rapids are thought so dangerous, that travellers in general go round them in a carriage; to me they appeared the most delightful and attractive part of the whole route.

MONTREAL, July 29th.

-There is no steamboat on Sunday to Quebec; so we are obliged to stay till evening. They never go by day; and thus we shall be able to see only a part of the country. Could I not, however, without seeing, and from the relations of others, who perhaps saw no more than myself, assisted by former studies or readings, make up an account of Canada, of its government and administration, its relations to the United States, &c.? It required scarce twenty-four hours to observe various peculiarities and differences. Thus there were many soldiers, some too without pantaloons, to wit, the Scotch Highlanders; no spit-boxes in the hotels; water-closets on every floor; no crowd or hurry in going to table, and a longer sitting at meals; but the attendance was less prompt, and the request was made-which I declined-for one of the company to officiate as carver. We found also police officers in the streets; good public buildings; waterworks at the harbor; a large catholic church (the sects require and have only chapels), whose exterior is well enough, though the interior is not without sins against good taste; evil speaking and railing under

the royal as under the republican government; a ministerial party and an opposition, &c. &c. A walk through the city and its suburbs shows the different character and tendencies of the two principal races, the French and English. I could easily sketch a description, in poetical prose, of the elevated, cheerful country life of the seigneurs, and the happy contentedness of the bourgeois; with a contrasted picture of the restless, dissatisfied, ill humored disposition of the Germanic race. But then here we have the very reason why the old, mean, French-built houses show scarcely a trace of alteration or improvement, and very little of the rapid, useful, and elegant advancement of American cities. English activity is every where fettered and broken by the easy far niente of the French, whose aims and enjoyments in life differ here as elsewhere completely from those of the English. The one or the other may be praised or preferred; but the simplest and most obvious phenomena show that it was the destined mission of the Germanic, and not of the Romance nations, to colonize North America and call her into being. Thus, as has been observed, the battle on the plains of Abraham decided for centuries the fate of an entire continent.

The prospect from the hills behind Montreal, over the city and river, is admirable; it affords too a birds-eye perspective of higher mountains in the distance.

QUEBEC, July 31st.

All the persons I have spoken with agree in this, that no book or pamphlet affords a thorough exposition of the state of Canada, and that the papers contain only a tissue of errors and misrepresentations. In this condition of the free press, where shall the truth be sought and found? One man promised me a brief account of what he would not dare to print. The substance of his relation is as follows: After the conquest of Canada, in 1763, the French population were satisfied with the conduct of their masters, who suffered them to retain their old civil coutumes, but introduced the English forms of proceeding in criminal cases. The French noblesse and the gentlemen in the English army agreed well enough. The American Revolution produced great excitement; and the government enlarged the privileges of the citizens, in order to quiet them. Yet these new concessions did not amount to full political rights; and the French Revolution changed their views once more, and increased their demands to such an extent, that England, in 1791, granted a constitution, which divided the country into two parts-the English, and the French. On the one hand, this satisfied many of

the inhabitants; on the other, it led to resistance and opposing resolutions, and divided what was still looked upon as one. The French party in particular became bolder, assailed the gov ernment, and endeavored from English history and English principles to derive greater power for the lower house; since the upper one was altogether dependent on the government and the governor. In the war with the United States, in 1812-1814, the French on the whole behaved in a praiseworthy manner; and now was the time when it would have been advisable to show full confidence in them, and to grant many of their requests. But the influence of English zealots prevented this; whereupon the French habitans organized a new opposition, refused contributions of money, &c.; which at length grew into open rebellion.

After this was suppressed, one constitution was given to both Canadas; and it was hoped that the moderate French party and the English who held together would always have the majority in the parliament. Unexpectedly, however, many of the English radicals united themselves with the French; and the forced efforts of the governor could not be successful in the long run. The government was also opposed by the operation of the naturalization laws, which granted the rights of citizens to all Protestants after a seven years' residence; and thus attracted a great many republicans in feeling from the United States. The greater favor shown to the French offended the English; and the governor found himself obliged to dismiss his French ministers, who aimed at reducing him to a mere cypher. This measure, however, has not again attached the English to him; and many hope that an open rupture between the quiet and the seditious French parties, will come to the assistance of the government.

It may be seen from all this, what endless difficulty there is in harmoniously uniting such different nations as the French and English into one constitutional whole. How then can it be imagined that such a union is possible between the Americans and the negroes?

At six o'clock in the evening of the 29th, we left in the steamer Montreal for Quebec, where we arrived at seven in the morning of the 30th. The country round Quebec is the most beautiful and varied we have seen in America. The city lies on a point between the St. Lawrence and the St. Charles rivers. One part of it is built on the level banks; the streets then rise very abruptly, between walls of rock, to Cape Diamond, which overlooks and commands the whole country, and reminded me of Ehrenbreitstein, although the fortifications have a less picturesque appearance. The St. Lawrence and St. Charles form two bodies of water; but the former is divided by the beautiful island of Orleans. This gives four different water-courses; and the fifth,