New York, outstripping all in size and business activity; Philadelphia, cleanly, beautiful, and cheerful; and Baltimore, emulating New York. In Halifax we saw ice and snow; in Boston, the first indications of green on the trees; between New York and Philadelphia, still further encroachments of spring upon winter; between Philadelphia and Baltimore, the rich orchards, particularly the apple-trees, in luxuriant bloom; and here in Washington, at six in the morning, the thermometer at 70°, and no longer a trace of what we saw three days ago. On the whole, the country improves in appearance as one goes further south, without having a character exactly picturesque. In Nova Scotia and Massachusetts, the ground is stony and by no means remarkably fertile; further south, it appears generally as at home in Germany, or to speak more accurately, in Dessau. But we felt a great difference, when passing over so many deep and navigable streams, and looking down the mighty bays. The view was very fine down the Susquehanna, and still finer up the stream, reminding one of the Rhine. The scenery was equally varied and charming at Ellicot's Mill, between Baltimore and Washington. Of this last city, and the country around it, too much has been said in dispraise. It gives the impression of a very cheerful, convenient, agreeable watering-place. More of it, when I know

more.

The custom-house officers gave us not the least trouble on our arrival. We have met with kindness every where.

CHARLESTON, 7th May.

On the 24th of April we came from Baltimore to Washington, and remained there till the 30th. The plan of that city is certainly designed on an immense scale, of which but a small part is executed. It may also be doubted, for many reasons, if it ever will be completed. In proportion however to the extent and prospects of the United States, the size of Berlin, as boldly sketched by Frederick William I., was still greater than that of Washington; and yet Berlin is growing in many directions beyond those limits. The most important difference may be, that in the United States the increase of all towns depends on a free commercial intercourse, and the so-called capital of the country is not the constant residence of a court and a powerful government. The surrounding states are of higher importance than their centre; even as in Germany, Regensburg, Wetzlar, and Frankfort on the Maine were not brought to a rapid growth by the Imperial diet and the meetings of the confederacy. The situation of Washington is favorable; and the view, particularly from the president's house

and the capitol, over the Potomac and the extensive wood-girt country around, is very beautiful. It is true, the world of former deeds and recollections which lends such interest to the Roman capitol is wanting: but here we have instead the living present; and the thoroughly peaceful tendencies of the people will certainly never permit the old Roman triumphs to be enacted over conquered nations.

The halls for the Senate and House of Representatives are conveniently situated on the two sides of the capitol, and the spacious circular hall that rises in the middle is adorned with pictures from the early history of the United States. I was particularly attracted by the Signing of the Declaration of Independence, and the countenances of several of the sharers in that act. As yet I have been present but once during the sitting of the Representatives, and heard a member make an unimportant speech in favor of high protective duties. The late decision, that no member should be allowed to speak longer than one hour, has certainly put an end to the multitude of interminable speeches; but the remedy is only an external one, and is not adapted to all subjects or to all persons. Demosthenes, Pitt, and Burke often spoke longer than an hour; and that which is a wholesome and necessary restraint for inferior natures, is to great spirits an injurious clog. Self-government should be exercised also in this respect.

My high esteem for Mr. C. has been fully confirmed by personal acquaintance; and his Speeches which he has given me with his own marginal notes, will be a treasured token of remembrance. I had already made myself acquainted with them in Berlin. Every one speaks in the highest terms of C.'s morality and excellent character; though some, half in reproach, call him a metaphysician. I am well aware that by this is understood nothing of what has been called so from Aristotle to Schelling. In a like manner the minister Struensee used the word poetry. If he said, "That is poetry," he meant, that is unpractical, impossible, empty dreaming. Assuredly C. cherishes none of the whims of unpractical philosophers-least of all that of an exclusive commercial state, like Fichte. His metaphysics consist essentially in this, that he will not attribute absolute truth and omnipotence to the opinions and crotchets of this or that day; nay, as the defender of the slave states, he has practically opposed a kind of metaphysics of the north. It is true that scientific cognition, the philosophico-systematic thinking of which the Germans have made such a hobby, are not yet predominant in America to a dangerous extent; and men of the logical sagacity of Mr. C. are a necessary counterpoise to mere rhetorical talent.

Mr. Clay, the whig candidate for the presidency, I also saw in Washington. He is a large man, of cheerful manners, and very

highly esteemed. He was surrounded with admirers-or rather worshippers, of the, as they imagined, rising sun. He neither could nor would expound his politics in a few minutes; but I was well pleased to hear the observation, that he had kept his health, by never eating too much or sleeping too little.

On the 30th April we went by the railroad back to Baltimore, to be present at the nomination and ratification of Clay as the presidential candidate in the whig convention. Of the value or worthlessness, the use or abuse of these great assemblies, I speak in connexion in another place; here a brief sketch of what I myself saw and experienced must suffice. All the hotels, and many of the private houses were filled to overflowing with strangers; and it was only through the good offices of Mr. G., our fellow-passenger in the Acadia from Bremen, that we obtained a night's lodging in the Exchange Hotel. By means of another rich countryman, Mr. L., we obtained on the first of May (a very great and singular favor) admission into the Universalist church, where the delegates of the twenty-six states, chosen by districts, were assembled to consult and unite upon the candidate of the whig party. The business was conducted, as is always the case, with the strict observance of certain forms, whereby order and moderation are secured. Thus a committee of arrangements had been previously appointed for the purpose of distributing the places, erecting a stage, &c. Then there was an election and confirmation of a president, vice-president, and secretaries; a short and appropriate religious service; and the reading of a suitable chapter of the Epistle to the Ephesians. When, after this, one of the members proposed that Henry Clay should be nominated as the whig candidate for the presidential chair, there was a burst of unanimous and unbounded applause. But before they could proceed to the nomination of the vice-president, there came from the gallery of the church-we sat below among the delegates the most frightful noise and shrieks, as if murder were going on. It was ascertained after some minutes, that a broken window had frightened people into the belief that the gallery was tumbling down. After three ballotings, the majority of votes was found to be in favor of Frelinghuysen for vice-president.

It was certainly impossible to behold without interest and admiration, the orderly and at the same time spirited manner in which the delegates of twenty-six free states united in deciding on the man who, according to the best of their knowledge and belief, should be chosen as the head of their common country.

In the evening we went to several places where distinguished whigs were addressing the assembled sovereign people in the lan

*guage of their party, and receiving boundless applause-because their adversaries stayed away.

On the second of May a vast procession, consisting not of the delegates alone, but also of all others who had come to Baltimore from the twenty-six states, and many citizens besides, moved to an open space near the city. Each division had its own devices, inscriptions, mottoes, allusions, &c., to enumerate and explain which would require several sheets. There were indeed no uniforms, no military array; but every one dressed, walked, and talked as he pleased. There was however a cordial unanimity in the vociferous huzzaing, the waving of hats and handkerchiefs, and every possible motion of the arms and legs. It was in truth, notwithstanding some little matters that smacked of the ridiculous, the grandest, noblest, and most impressive national festival not only that I have ever seen, but that can now be witnessed upon earth. Without any police or gens-d'armes there was not the slightest disorder, confusion, or struggle; the way was left open without quarrelling or ordering. There was shown too a pleasing piece of gallantry, in the fact that all the windows of all the houses, with a very few exceptions, were given up exclusively to the ladies. The whigs look upon their victory as most propitious, and as absolutely decided; and on seeing all these thousands animated by one mind and in the highest pitch of enthusiasm, one feels inclined to agree with them. Certainly they have hitherto acted more discreetly than their opponents. 1st. They have attributed, as usual, all existing evils to the present government, and have promised to remove them. 2dly. They have worked upon certain views and prejudices that were becoming prevalent, and have used them to promote their own cause. 3dly. They have united on one man, whereas the other party is divided between several candidates. 4thly. They have held their convention earlier, and thus have probably gained the advantage in many respects.

CHARLESTON, 8th May.

The

In fact we had in Baltimore no rest by day or night. speechifying and hurraing lasted till two in the morning, and the music of the wearied performers was often out of time and tune. And first to-day of some non-political matters. If one takes into account the size of the principal hotels here, and the number of their guests, it will seem very natural that no calculation should be made for individuals as individuals. Every one pays the same per day, whether he eats or not: whereby of course some gain and others lose. At dinner, long bills of fare are laid upon the table. But the black waiters are often ignorant of the

French words, fricandeau, cotelettes, &c., pronounce them as one will; nor is it of any use to point the finger to the written or printed word, since they can seldom read. Accordingly, one who wants those dishes generally fails to get them at all; or he is helped so late, that all the others have hurried through before him, and he does not get enough to eat. Thus the long list of eatables shrinks into a wondrously small compass, and the most advisable course is to adhere to the universally understood routine of beef, mutton, lamb, and chickens.

The 3d of May, in the afternoon, we went on board the steamboat Herald for Portsmouth, opposite Norfolk. The view of Baltimore, as we receded, was very fine, and the sail down the Chesapeake Bay extremely pleasant. We had magnificent clouds, and a sunset of the most gorgeous hues; then the moon, and opposite to it gleams of lightning breaking forth from masses of black clouds. To the lovely evening succeeded a disagreeable night. By some mischievous contrivance, the beds engaged by us were taken possession of by others; and we, for the sake of peace and quietness, contented ourselves with worse. That mine in particular was near the bow of the boat, so that I heard the sound of the rushing waves, was not unpleasant to me; but that three horses should stand over my head, and keep continually stamping and kicking about them, I considered the worst that could befal me. I was mistaken. A sable Bacchus opened his "bar" close by the head of my bed. The spitting customers were the least troublesome, as I lay quite out of the line of their fire. But three cigar-smokers seated themselves on the edge of the empty berth below mine, and puffed away at such a rate that I could scarcely see through the cloud over their heads that the noise I heard a few feet off proceeded from people who were playing all manner of games of chance-prohibited, as I knew, on land, but probably allowed, according to a literal interpretation, on the water. The losers grumbled; the winners shouted; and it was not till daybreak that these refined enjoyments had an end. Among the king or president makers returning from Baltimore, were several very plain and sensible people; and by way of variety, a few tall and slender youths, with spindle shanks, that reached all the way across the rail-car and were usually elevated higher than their heads These positions offered a singular contrast to the vanity displayed in the manner in which their cravats were tied or not tied, and to the ribbons, medals, badges, and other distinctive tokens of the Clay party, which they wore about them. That however was their own affair. The worst of all was, that they screamed, not sang, with little interruption, songs set to the most villainous tunes. A grave American remarked to me, that this behavior of the young people caused