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Harbor Lighthouse, and Egg Rock Lighthouse. Mount Desert Island is mountainous, the highest on the coast of Maine. Cadillac Mountain, the highest point, is 1,532 feet (467 m.) above the sea, and is visible in clear weather between 35 and 45 miles. There are several others nearly as high. Schoodic Mountain, near the eastern entrance to the bay, is 437 feet (133 m.) high and the most prominent mark on the eastern side.
Mount Desert Rock, 1712 miles southward of Mount Desert Island and 1142 miles outside the nearest island, is a rocky islet about 20 feet (6.1 m.) high, with a lighthouse on the top.
Mount Desert Lighthouse is a gray conical tower. The light is flashing white (flash 2 seconds, eclipse 13 seconds), 75 feet (22.9 m.) above the water, and visible 14 miles. The fog signal is a reed
horn, sounding a group of three blasts every 60 seconds (each blast 5 seconds, silent 25 seconds).
Anchorage.-Winter Harbor is a good anchorage, and is frequently used by vessels entering for shelter; it is usually open throughout the winter. Bar Harbor is partially protected, except against heavy southeasterly winds, but has poor holding ground except near the head of the harbor. Large vessels sometimes anchor northward or northwestward of Bar Island. Stave Island Harbor is a good anchorage, but is seldom used except by local boats. South West Harbor is a well-sheltered and frequently used anchorage.
Pilots.—No licensed pilots are available and none are needed to enter. Local fishermen can usually be obtained as pilots for the tributaries.
Supplies.— Gasoline and provisions are obtainable at all of the towns and villages. Water from the wharves and coal in limited quantities can usually be obtained at Bar Harbor and Winter Harbor.
Repairs. There are no facilities for repairs to hulls. There are machine shops for minor repairs to machinery at Bar Harbor.
Ice. During the winter, navigation is practically closed by ice above Porcupine Islands. Steamers usually run all winter but have considerable trouble with ice. Winter Harbor is said to be always open, and is the only harbor of refuge available in winter.
Tides.—The mean rise and fall of tides varies from 10.3 feet (3.1 m.) at the entrance to 10.6 feet (3.2 m.) at the head.
Communication.—Mount Desert Ferry is the terminus of a railroad, and has frequent steamer communication with Bar Harbor. .There is steamer communication between Bar Harbor and all of the towns on the bay and with practically all towns westward along the coast as far as Rockland. There are good automobile roads on Mount Desert Island, and there is a highway bridge at the Narrows connecting with the mainland.
DIRECTIONS, FRENCHMAN BAY
The bay is rocky, but the water is deep and generally free from dangers except near the shores. The main part of the bay, from a little southward of Egg Rock Lighthouse to the entrances of Skilling River, Sullivan River, and Eastern Bay, including the channels between Jordan and Long Porcupine Islands, and between Burnt Porcupine and Sheep Porcupine Islands, has been examined by means of a wire drag
The tributaries, with the exception of the main part of Winter Harbor and the channels northward and southward of Sutton Island, have not been examined by means of a wire drag, and vessels navigating them should proceed with caution when crossing areas where the charted depth does not considerably exceed the draft.
The following directions are good for vessels of the deepest draft, and lead to Eastern Bay at the head of Frenchman Bay. General directions for entering the harbors and arms of Frenchman Bay are given in the description of the tributaries following:
From eastward. From the whistling buoy off Schoodic Island, steer 296o true (NW. mag.) for Egg Rock Lighthouse for 314 miles until 14 mile southwestward of a red bell buoy and Winter Harbor Lighthouse is in line with the southern end of Turtle Island. Then steer 313o true (NNW. 12 W. mag.) for 4 miles, with the east side of Sheep Porcupine Island ahead, passing 12 mile northeastward of Egg Rock Lighthouse, to a position 300 to 500 yards eastward of Round Porcupine Island.
Or, from the whistling buoy off Schoodic Island, steer 284o true (NW. by W.18 W. mag.) for 434 miles to Egg Rock whistling buoy. Continue the course about 38 mile past the buoy, and then steer 342° true (N. mag.) to a position 300 yards eastward of Round Porcupine Island.
From a position 300 yards eastward of Round Porcupine Island, steer 329o true (N. by W.18 W. mag.), pass midway between Burnt Porcupine and Sheep Porcupine Islands, and when 11/2 miles northward of them pass 14 mile eastward of Bald Rock black buoy. Then steer 300° true (NW.38 N. mag.) for 2 miles, and pass 14 mile
northeastward of Sunken Ledge buoy. When about 1/4 mile past this buoy and Sands Point bears 252o true (W. mag.), steer 266° true (WNW. 34 W. mag.), pass about 14 mile northward of Sands Point, and
pass southward of the red buoy marking Googin Ledge, giving it a berth of over 100 yards.
From westward.–From the whistling buoy 118 miles southsoutheastward of Baker Island Lighthouse, steer 13° true (NNE. 78 E. mag.) for 614 miles, heading for Egg Rock Lighthouse. When Egg Rock whistling buoy is 1/2 mile distant ahead and Great Head bears 266o true (WNW. 34 W. mag.), steer 341° true (N. mag.) for 334 miles, with the west side of Burnt Porcupine Island ahead, to a position 300 yards eastward of Round Porcupine Island. Then follow the directions preceding.
Or, having come from westward through the passage northward of Sutton Island, as described under the directions for South West Harbor on page 103, pass about 200 yards southward of Seal Harbor gas buoy and steer 580 true (ENE. 78 E. mag.) for 212 miles, following the shore of Mount Desert Island at a distance of 14 mile. When 200 yards southward of Otter Cliff Ledge bell buoy, steer 21° true (NE. 12 N. mag.) for 134 miles, passing about 400 yards southeastward of Great Head, to a position 200 yards eastward of Schooner Ledge black buoy. Then steer 353o true (N. by E. mag.) for 314 miles to a position 300 to 500 yards eastward of Round Porcupine Island. Then follow the directions preceding.
(chart 317), on the eastern side of Frenchman Bay, just inside the entrance, is a frequently used harbor of refuge, with good anchorage in 5 to 9 fathoms (9.1 to 16.5 m.), good holding ground. It is comparatively free from dangers, and although open southward, a heavy sea never enters. Ice seldom interferes with navigation. The principal entrance from southward is deep and free from dangers. Winter Harbor Lighthouse is the principal guide. It can also be entered from northward, close along the western side of Grindstone Neck. The dangers along this channel are marked, but it is used only by local vessels of 12-foot (3.7 m.) or less draft; the aids are colored for vessels bound north; that is, northbound vessels will find black buoys on the port side.
Turtle Island, on the western side of the entrance, is wooded. Turtle Island Ledge, bare at half tide, extends 14 mile off the southwest side of the island.
Mark Island is grassy and marked by Winter Harbor Lighthouse, a white tower connected with dwelling.
Of the islands northward of Turtle and Mark Islands, Ned and Heron Islands are partly wooded, Spectacle Island has a house and a few trees, and the others are grassy or bare rocks. All are surrounded by extensive ledges, bare at various stages of the tide.
Grindstone Neck, forming the west side of Winter Harbor, is wooded, but has many cottages and hotels visible. A standpipe on the highest point is prominent. The wharf on the west side 1 mile above the south end is in ruins.
Grindstone Ledge, extending 400 yards southward from Grindstone Neck, is bare at half tide and marked by a spindle. There is a red buoy a little southward of the end of the ledge.
Sand Cove, on the northwest side, at the head of Winter Harbor, is the usual and best anchorage. The wharf on the western side has a depth of 14 feet (4.3 m.) at the end, but was in bad repair in 1926. A yacht club and landing on the west side of the cove are prominent.
Winter Harbor is a town on the two coves at the head of Winter Harbor. Winter Harbor Cove, the westerly of the two coves, is the most frequently used anchorage for local fishing boats, and is generally fully occupied. The wharves are bare at low water. A spindle and red buoy mark a ledge on the north side at the entrance; the mid-channel is clear inside. Gasoline and provisions are obtainable.
The automobile ferry between Bar Harbor and Winter Harbor lands at Hammond Cove.
Directions, Winter Harbor.–The entrance to Winter Harbor from southward is deep and clear. Vessels can steer for Winter Harbor Lighthouse on any course between 339o true (N. 14 W. mag.) and 21° true (NE. 12 N. mag.). They should pass at least 300 yards eastward of the lighthouse and steer north-northeastward for 34 mile until inside the harbor, and then more northward, following the western shore into the middle of Sand Cove. Anchorage can be selected in the cove according to draft. If bound to the village, the north-northeasterly course from 300 yards off Winter Harbor Lighthouse can be continued until between the red and the black buoys at the entrance to the coves at the head. Then haul westward, pass southward of the red buoy on the north side at the entrance to the inner harbor, and enter in midchannel.
To enter Winter Harbor from northward, westward of Grindstone Neck; pass midway between the black buoy off Crow Island and the old wharf northeastward, and follow the western shore of Grindstone Neck southward at a distance of 150 yards for 34 mile to a black buoy, and at a distance of 75 yards while passing eastward of the black buoy and a spindle just southward of it. After passing the spindle follow the shore at a distance of 100 yards for 200 yards, then steer 121° true (SE. 38 S. mag.) and pass close southward of a red buoy. When well past the buoy, vessels can haul northward into Winter Harbor and follow the directions preceding.
FRENCHMAN BAY, EAST SIDE, WINTER HARBOR TO SULLIVAN HARBOR
Egg Rock, in the middle of Frenchman Bay, is low and grassy and marked by Egg Rock Lighthouse, a white square tower on a dwelling. Ledges, bare at various stages of the tide, extend 1/4 mile northeastward and 38 mile southwestward of the lighthouse. The light is flashing red with a reed horn fog signal.
Ironbound Island, the largest of the islands in Frenchman Bay, is thickly wooded and has no prominent marks.
Cod Ledges, eastward of Ironbound Island, have a least found depth of 19 feet (5.8 m.), but have not been closely examined and probably have less. Vessels should pass eastward of the black buoy marking them.
Halibut Hole, the passage between the north end of Ironbound Island and Jordan Island, is deep and clear with the exception of a rock on the northeast side, 200 yards off the shore of Jordan Island, with a least found depth of 17 feet (5.2 m.), not closely examined. The channel is southward of the rock. The western entrance to Halibut Hole is marked on the south side by a black gas buoy.
Stave Island Harbor.--This is an excellent harbor of refuge on the eastern shore of Frenchman Bay, formed by the mainland on the east, Stave Island on the north, and Jordan Island on the south; the anchorage has a depth of 312 to 6 fathoms (6.4 to 11 m.), soft bottom, and is sheltered from all winds. It is considerably used as an anchorage by local fishing craft.
The buildings and wharf of the fish factory located in the northeastern part of the harbor are prominent. The automobile ferry from Bar Harbor lands in Hammond Cove.
South Gouldsboro is a village on the northeastern shore of Stave Island Harbor. There is a long cannery wharf with a depth of about 11 feet (3.4 m.) at the end. The other wharves are nearly bare at low water. Gasoline and some provisions are obtainable.
Summer Harbor is the local name given to a small settlement in the southeast end. The harbor is clear with the exception of a rock with 7 feet (2.1 m.) over it lying 200 to 400 yards from shore in its southeast part. The north end of the harbor eastward of Stave Island is shoal. There is a narrow channel into the harbor from southward over Jordan Island Bar, which is used only by small local craft; the channel has a depth of about 4 feet (1.2 m.) and lies 100 yards off Jordan Island.
The main entrance to Stave Island Harbor is between Stave and Jordan Islands. There is a rock with 444 fathoms (7.6 m.) on it nearly midway between Jordan and Stave Islands, the deeper channel lying southward of it. Yellow Island, lying 200 yards westward from the north end of Jordan Island, is named from the color of its rocks and is wooded. To enter, pass 200 to 300 yards northward of Yellow Island on a 72o true (E. mag.) course. Approaching Stave Island Harbor from southward there is a broad, clear channel between Ironbound and Long Porcupine Islands, and the approach northward of the Porcupine Islands is also clear. There is no navigation from Stave Island Harbor to Flanders Bay inside of Stave Island, except for small craft at high water.
Flanders Bay.--This bay is on the northeast side of Frenchman Bay, inside Stave and Calf Islands. It is an excellent anchorage, but is little used except by small craft. It forms the approach to the villages of West Gouldsboro and East Sullivan. The bay can be entered across Stave Island Bar between Calf and Stave Islands, or around the north end of Calf Island. The latter has the best water, but the former is more direct, and is generally used.
Hall Point, on Ash Neck, is marked by a prominent white residence.
Calf Island is wooded except on the south end, which is low and bare. A house and barn on the southeast side is visible from southward.
Little Calf Island and Thrumcap are partly wooded islands on the extensive shoal extending southward from Calf Island.