great coat from the boatman, I embarked with the rest. to sonsupernos ni snog 1st wit t We started from Purrysburgh about two o'clock, and were rowed by four negroes, for eandes dres not paddled here as in Canada. They seemed to be jolly fellows, and rowed lustily to a boat-song! of their own composing. The words were given out by one of them, and the rest joined chorus at the end of every line. It began in the following

The tune of this ditty was rather monotonous, but had a pleasing effect, as they kept time with it at every stroke of their oars. The words were mere nonsense; any thing, in fact, which came into their heads. I however remarked that brandy was very frequently mentioned, and it was understood as a hint to the passengers to give them a dram. We had supplied ourselves with this article at Purrysburgh, and were not sparing of it to the negroes, in order to encourage them to row quick. During the passage it rained incessantly, and prevented me from seeing the river to advantage. By the time we arrived at Savan

nah it was nearly dark, and our rowers, who were pretty far gone, in consequence of their frequent libations of brandy, had nearly upset the canoe, under the cable of a ship which was lying off the town. At length, we all landed in safety near the Exchange, and in company with one of the American gentlemen I proceeded immediately to Colonel Shelman's hotel..

256

COLONEL SHELMAN'S HOTEL.

CHAPTER XXXVII,

Savannah-Col. Shelman's Hotel-Yazoo Bubble -Character of the Georgians-Settlement of Georgia-Augusta-St. Mary's-Town of Savannah-Houses-Streets-Pride of IndiaPromenade The Exchange-Assembly-Room -Population of Savannah-Burying-Ground -Hurricane of 1806-Arts and Sciences-Military Force-Religion-American Fanaticism -Camp Meetings-Blasphemous Scenes-Midnight Orgies in the Forest, compared with the gentle and sublime Conduct of the RedeemerMild Doctrines of Christianity-The Christian Religion, a Religion of Charity and Benevolence to all the World.

THE hotel of Colonel Shelman affords better accommodation than any other house of the kind in Savannah; but there are two or three genteel boarding-houses for those who prefer living in private. The Colonel received me very politely; but I had scarcely sat down, when he entered upon politics, condemned the embargo, which he declared would ruin him and his family, and de-. precated the conduct of Mr. Jefferson and the

COLONEL SHELMAN'S HOTEL.

257

government. At first I was cautious how I entered into conversation with him, for I had fre quently met with democrats, who threw out a few words to sound the sentiments of people, and, if they did not happen to coincide with their principles, would abuse them unmercifully. But happening to espy a portrait of General Washington in the room, my doubts ceased, and upon a little conversation with him, I found that he was a staunch federalist. He had formerly been a Colonel in the continental army, under Washington; and, like all the old officers of that army, was firmly attached to the political principles of his great leader.

He had resided several years in the back country as a planter, but had lately come to Savannah to try his success in a tavern. The house which he took not being large enough, he built another close to it. This he has fitted up with separate sleeping rooms, which are very seldom met with in the taverns of this part of the country. A large hall below serves as a refectory; and at eight o'clock we sat down in this room to supper, There were upwards of twenty gentlemen present, some of whom lodged in the house,, and others who merely took their meals there; the latter were principally clerks in the State bank and other offices. Here I met with several gentlemen who had come to Savannah to collect in VOL. II.

S

the outstanding debts which were owing to them when in business several years past. Among the rest was Mr. M'C, the old gentleman whom I before mentioned as speculating so unfortunately in his courtship with Mrs. S. of Charleston. He resides in England, but occasionally takes a voyage to America to recover his property. He, as well as the other gentlemen, complained much of the backwardness of the planters of Carolina and Georgia in paying their debts; and though they had put the accounts into lawyers' hands, the money came in very slowly. They complained greatly of the embargo, which had increased the difficulty of recovering their debts, particularly since the judges of the courts of law in Georgia had put a stop, for a certain period, to the levying of executions in that State.

Even

If the statements of several persons with whom I conversed while I remained at Colonel Shelman's, are to be credited, the people of Georgia are in dolent and dissipated; not very scrupulous as to their moral character; fond of money to excess, but careless by what means it is obtained. in a public capacity, they will frequently resort to means not the most honourable, as was the case in the Yazoo Bubble, which will be an everlasting stain upon the character of their government. In the year 1795 the State of Georgia, under the great seal, and signed by Governor Matthews,